Date   
Re: power supply for servos?

Jay
 

Hi!
You power both systems from the DCC Bus or a 12v supply.
The control boards supply the power to the servos.

Jay

Re: power supply for servos?

Paul O
 

 Dave, I have a 12 V DC power bus that runs around my layout. Then use small adjustable regulators from Banggood.com set to 5 V to power my servos. 

Paul O

power supply for servos?

Dave Emery
 

If I go with servo-based switch machines (e.g. Tam Valley or Walthers), how do I power them? It would be a pain in the posterior to have to provision AC and then a bunch of wall-warts around the layout. Has anyone done a ’servo power bus’?

dave

Re: Forgive my ignorance! Am I creating several reverse loops on my proposed layout?

Mark Cartwright
 

Better....
Tom,

Run some of the Green Track...while also making an attempt to run the Roundtable.
On the way to doing this...
Consider some Structures and Scenery as well as spacing.
I expect a few more epiphanies along the way.
Mark

Re: Forgive my ignorance! Am I creating several reverse loops on my proposed layout?

whmvd
 

HiTom,

You won't regret those changes. That's a lot more reasonable while still giving you lots of options. Like it!
Wouter


On Wed, 13 Mar 2019 at 03:31, Tom G. via Groups.Io <tjg81296=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Made a few updates. Thanks all for the advice.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oqbriyxcawabj5t/SCARM%20-%20playroomScarm_v30.pdf?dl=0

Re: Forgive my ignorance! Am I creating several reverse loops on my proposed layout?

Tom G.
 

Re: Fw: binding wires in DCC installation

Joseph Melhorn
 

It’s called Stator Lacing and Tie Cord. In another life, we used it to bind rewound coils of wire for motor stators and armatures. It is a braided flat cord (cotton?) that was coated with wax, or something resembling wax. That was 45 years ago and I still have a partial spool of it. You could also wax your own thread with beeswax and get similar results.

Joe Melhorn

Sahuarita, AZ

 

Re: Fw: binding wires in DCC installation

Mark Stamm
 

This is typically referred to as cable lacing. 

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html

Mark P Stamm
Mark at Euphoriatt dot Com

Sent from my mobile device

Re: Wiring problem

Don Vollrath
 

Charles, disconnect the two output wires from the MRC unit. Then with power ON verify with a voltmeter that there is near zero volts across all 4 loop isolating gaps. If it is not zero you have an unwanted connection to loop tracks. Find and disconnect it.
DonV

Re: Fw: binding wires in DCC installation

Kurt Konrath
 

I have used “Bees Wax” from craft stores in sewing department.

Slightly sticky helps string stay together.

Kurt

On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Craig Zeni <@CraigZ> wrote:


On Mar 10, 2019, at 9:00 PM, Michael Shockley via Groups.Io wrote:




I was watching a video and they mentioned binding the wires in a loco to keep them out of the drive. It was something about a waxy threadlike material that sticks together when you press it to hold the wires.
Any idea what they were talking about? I wish I were paying more attention before it got away from me.
Not familiar with anything that sticks together, but dental floss works fantastic for bundling up wires. We all have that package of floss that our dentist gave us...that we never use :)

Craig Zeni
Cary NC





Re: Fw: binding wires in DCC installation

Craig Zeni
 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 9:00 PM, Michael Shockley via Groups.Io wrote:




I was watching a video and they mentioned binding the wires in a loco to keep them out of the drive. It was something about a waxy threadlike material that sticks together when you press it to hold the wires.
Any idea what they were talking about? I wish I were paying more attention before it got away from me.
Not familiar with anything that sticks together, but dental floss works fantastic for bundling up wires. We all have that package of floss that our dentist gave us...that we never use :)

Craig Zeni
Cary NC

Fw: binding wires in DCC installation

Michael Shockley
 




I was watching a video and they mentioned binding the wires in a loco to keep them out of the drive.  It was something about a waxy threadlike material that sticks together when you press it to hold the wires.
Any idea what they were talking about?  I wish I were paying more attention before it got away from me.

Mike Shockley

Re: Wiring problem

Jay
 

Sorry for the multiple posts, my computer crashed twice while writing that post!

Jay

Re: Wiring problem

Jay
 
Edited

I used 2 MRC Reverser Units on the MWR Train Museum N Scale layout.
This is on a Digitrax system layout.
Both ends  of both sections were totally isolated.
That is, 2 isolating rail joiners at each end of each section.
They worked flawlessly. No hitch or short when entering or leaving the section.
They were connected directly to the DCC Buss.
It is interesting that you can't get it to work.
That was my 1st time using a reverser.
They are still working 5 years later.

Jay

Re: Wiring problem

Tom O'Hara
 

I'll toss in an opinion which echoes those of others. The diagram looks OK for the reversers I use, which are by DCC Specialities. I don't know the MRC unit. So I'll pose a couple of ideas: If the MRC unit uses a mechanical relay, then it's probably too slow; and the system will short out first. If the MRC unit has an input and output which are connected backwards, then this could create havoc with your wiring depending on the rest of the layout. I prefer the former explanation at this point. 

.....Tom

--
... Tom

Re: Wiring problem

Charles Cauble
 

Well I soldered the yellow wires inside the loop right next to the double isolated rails (where + meets -) and connected the red wires to the bus lines. Only 6 inch wires either side of the MRC.  Unfortunately there is no change with good connections.  The system stays on and the loco shorts it at the A gap.  I went under and switched the red wires to opposite bus lines and now the whole system shorts.  I’m running out of ideas.  Any more would be appreciated.
charles

Re: Wiring problem

Craig Zeni
 

My experience with the MRC breakers was that they were too slow; the NCE boosters always kicked out first.

Craig Zeni
Cary, NC
Despatched from my infernal Android

On Sun, Mar 10, 2019, 18:33 Charles Cauble <drbeetlebaum@...> wrote:
Don,    would connecting  the input for the MRC to the bus wires (14 gauge) be connecting to the booster, correct? (NCE unit)

charles

Re: Wiring problem

Charles Cauble
 

Don,    would connecting  the input for the MRC to the bus wires (14 gauge) be connecting to the booster, correct? (NCE unit)

charles

Re: Wiring problem

Don Vollrath
 

Aaah. I found your other photo. [I expected it to be in the same 'album' as the first]
I suspect that the feed wires to the input of the A-R unit are a weak electrical service connection. Wiring to the input side of the A-R unit should be directly connected to the booster, NOT the constant polarity track leading up to the reversing loop. The difference???  A matter of the total electrical resistance in the current path, and therefore short circuit current available for the A-R unit to quickly sense a polarity mis-match and make a correction before the booster trips out. Using alligator clips with typical small gauge wire for testing doesn't help.

The A-R unit will naturally/always start up with the output phasing in the same direction. [Satisfying point B as you describe it.] Once the poor electrical connections to the A-R unit or to the track cause a delay in tripping a polarity mis-match at point A, causing the booster to trip, It will never recover as when the booster trips, operating power to the A-R unit is lost, causing it to restart when the booster recovers in the normal startup position... with matched polarity again at point B and the mis-match again at point A. Flip the polarity to the input of A-R unit to test my theory to see if now the issues occurs at point B.

Making your wiring more robust should certainly help... including good wire feeders near both sides of the isolating gaps on each rail.
DonV

Re: Wiring problem

Don Vollrath
 

Charles, I only see the photo you posted on March 4 in your photo folder. Is there a different one?
It is possible that the MRC reverser is just too slow to work with the NCE 5 amp command station and booster (or possibly faulty).
You should be able to verify action of the Auto-Reverser by simply using an alligator clip jumper across any isolating same-rail gap. The A-R unit should simply flip to make the net voltage across the gap to be zero (the same polarity) and the booster should never trip out. Make sure the wire gauge from the booster to the reverser and then to the loop track feeders is at least as big as 18 AWG, and that there are track feeders reasonably close to the isolating gaps in the track. I recommend using an OG-AR. But a dual frog joicer when installed properly should also work.

DonV