Date   
Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Tom Anderson
 

Rich,

 

          Thanks for the clarification. As I mentioned this new for me.

 

Tom

 

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 7:56 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I think the tortoise instructions might explain. The motor drops the voltage a lot. I did electronics for fifty years.

 

Rich 



On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 7:50 PM, Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io <richg_1998@...> wrote:

No. The tortoise does the  job. Like I said I did the measurements.

 

Rich



On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 4:26 PM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

Rich,

 

          Isn’t a resistor needed to knock down the 12 volts given the LED’s show voltage of 2 – 2.5 V?

 

          Am I missing something here?

 

          Thanks!

 

Tom

 

 

 

Tom Anderson

 

Business Information Systems, Inc.

P.O. Box 160396

Boiling Springs, SC  29316

 

(864) 621-8607

 

From: w4dccqa@groups.io <w4dccqa@groups.io> On Behalf Of Richard Gagnon via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2018 4:11 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Wiring Bi-color LED's

 

I put a two lead red/green 3mm, two lead LED in series with one tortoise lead. The tortoise draws almost 20 ma. at stall. Most LED’s are needed. No resistors needed.

 

Rich


On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 11:21 AM, Tom Anderson <tanderson@...> wrote:

I am installing Tortoise machines on my layout and will start a panel using DPDT switches to change the turnout position. I would like to add bi-color led's (red/green) to the panel and power them using the contacts on the Tortoise. Could someone show me a simple way to wire these.

LED's have the following specifications:
Forward voltage (R/G): 2.0/2.2   Max: 2.5/2.6
Reverse voltage: 5.0
Peak forward current: 150mA
Steady Current: 25mA
Given that the Tortoise uses 12V, I am assuming that I need resistors to not damage the LED but I don't know what value or how many are needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I have very little experience doing this.
Thanks!

Tom


ExchangeDefender Message Security: Check Authenticity


ExchangeDefender Message Security: Check Authenticity

Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Rich Randall
 

Sounds good. However, are all Tortoise' exactly the same? To ensure my LEDs are not blown, I put 20mA current limiters in series. Just my way.


Rich Randall
Gettysburg, PA

Re: Rotary switch

john
 

Don, 
do you have a drawing for that, I am presently using one relay per Tortoise Motor and a diode matrix.
jd



On Saturday, October 13, 2018 3:43 PM, Don Vollrath <donevol43@...> wrote:


You can use a Team Digital SRC16 and program it to use a single push button to select the track path and line up multiple turnouts. Works great with Tortoise motors.
DonV




Re: Wiring Bi-color LED's

Richard Gagnon
 

It sure makes sense they are all made the same way.
20 mm LED’s are all made the same way.

Rich




On Saturday, October 13, 2018, 9:12 PM, Rich Randall via Groups.Io <RRand4449@...> wrote:

Sounds good. However, are all Tortoise' exactly the same? To ensure my LEDs are not blown, I put 20mA current limiters in series. Just my way.


Rich Randall
Gettysburg, PA

Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

I have added a section on the new Peco Unifrog turnout.  It can be found at:

http://wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm#a7

or accessed through the What's New section:

http://wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC

Re: Hornby Pendolo digital

Howard Greenway
 

The DCC version of the Pendolino has a ‘special’ Hornby 7 pin decoder but it is not a very good performer. A picture of this plug in board would help. I don’t think a 7 pin blanking plug is available so it is most likely a decoder set to another address. Some-one with a decent DCC controller could read this value. I changed the chassis on mine to the DCC ready version which strangely comes with a conventional 8 pin socket and fitted a decent decoder.
Howard


On 4 Oct 2018, at 06:10, Richard Sutcliffe <ras1@...> wrote:

Thanks Theo

Kinda what I figured.

Guess we would have to hard wire - the 7 pin stock is not a recognized DCC configuration.

On Oct 3, 2018, at 1:25 AM, Theo van Riet <tvanriet@...> wrote:




Op 3 okt. 2018, om 07:04 heeft Richard Sutcliffe <ras1@...> het volgende geschreven:


When placed on a Digitrax programming track there no acknowledgement (na).
Looking inside there is a mother board with another board plugged into a 7 pin socket.

Am I right in assuming the second board, with a number of components, simply bridges the motor to the track?



The board, plugged in the 7pin socket has to be replaced by a decoder of his choice, then it will start reacting on digital signals.
This looks to me as an analog train, prepared for digital…

Theo


--                 
Greetings from the heath in the north of Belgium 





Dick Sutcliffe

Secretary
Dewdney-Alouette Railway Society


Re: Rotary switch

Don Vollrath
 

John / jd, You can find the TD SRC16 tech manual and connections diagrams at http://www.teamdigital1.com/resources/documents/src16_doc.pdf.
Unfortunately the SCR16 seems to be out of production. I was not aware of that. That is a shame as it is such a great easy to use product.
Simply following the directions of examples in the tech manual makes perfect sense and can be accomplished as wired in place via programming on the main (POM) without need for the programming track or an external computer when powered from the DCC (track or accessory) bus.. [You don't need Loco-Net but it can be used to talk between units.]
You might find some product parts still on the shelf at your local hobby shop (LHS) and/or net-sales outlets. It's worth the effort to also use the SRC16 with their MotoD drivers for up to 16 motor outputs.  

I also supplied a rotary switch connection diagram earlier for controlling routes in a yard to Allan's wiring4dcc.com website. Did you find it?
You can find the necessary single deck rotary switch in the www.jameco.com catalog.

I have use both of the above methods to control and indicate the position of yard and other mainline Tortoise switch machines.  

DonV

Re: Hornby Pendolo digital

Richard Sutcliffe
 

Howard

I don’t have access to the unit for a photo.
The plug in the socket had 2 diodes and two capacitors, just like most DC adapter plugs.
Ran on DC, with lights.
We will probably hard wire a DCC socket and use a basic decoder, although the father was intrigued by my Kato Shinkansen with an electric Econami decoder.
They showed up with a set of EMUs last week, but these have a standard 8 pin socket and DC “blanking” plug.

On Oct 14, 2018, at 8:39 AM, Howard Greenway via Groups.Io <greenwayhoward@...> wrote:

The DCC version of the Pendolino has a ‘special’ Hornby 7 pin decoder but it is not a very good performer. A picture of this plug in board would help. I don’t think a 7 pin blanking plug is available so it is most likely a decoder set to another address. Some-one with a decent DCC controller could read this value. I changed the chassis on mine to the DCC ready version which strangely comes with a conventional 8 pin socket and fitted a decent decoder.
Howard


Re: Rotary switch

Don Vollrath
 

It looks as though the Team Digital SRC8 is still available and could also be used instead of their SRC16 to program PB inputs to select a particular yard track and turn an indicator LED on. However the tech manual at http://www.teamdigital1.com/resources/documents/src8_5.pdf. is not as easy to follow.
DonV 

Re: Rotary switch

 

According to their web sight the SRC8 is also discontinued. 

Ken Harstine
Holyoke, MA

Re: Rotary switch

Chuck Stiles
 

If you have access to JMRI You can add a SRC8 or 16 to your roster its on the decoder list, and program it a little easier in decoder pro

Chuck
Brick NJ

Re: Wiring For DCC Update

wirefordcc
 

I added a photo of the Peco Unifrog to my website today.

http://wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm#a7

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC

NCE Mini-Panel and F2

Bill Wilken
 

If I toggle F2 on my NCE cab, I can start and stop a horn blowing in any of my locos, regardless of decoder.  But if I summon F2 via my NCE Mini-Panel, once the horn begins to blow there seems to be no way to stop it.  The decoder model in the loco makes no difference.  Am I missing something obvious or does this simply fall into the category, "one of those things?"

Re: NCE Mini-Panel and F2

Bill Wilken
 

I finally discovered the answer to my own question.  To turn off any function requires leaving a bit blank, not treating it as a toggle.

On 10/25/18 8:25 PM, Bill Wilken wrote:
If I toggle F2 on my NCE cab, I can start and stop a horn blowing in any of my locos, regardless of decoder.  But if I summon F2 via my NCE Mini-Panel, once the horn begins to blow there seems to be no way to stop it.  The decoder model in the loco makes no difference.  Am I missing something obvious or does this simply fall into the category, "one of those things?"

Wiring for a accessory bus.

maymeral.gordons@...
 

Hello,

 

I’m new to this forum so please be gentle with me.

I am from the UK and I’m in the process of wiring a layout which would be considered modest by US standard. When complete, I expect to be running with about 70 Tortoise point motors operated by an appropriate number of Switch 8 decoders.

It seems that the general opinion is that I should power these via a dedicated accessory bus and I can appreciate the logic in this.

However, with electronics not being my number 1 subject, I am at a bit of a loss as to what I need and how it should be assembles.

 

My operating system will be a Power Cab used as a simple throttle with Smart Booster.

The layout will be split into 4 separate power districts.

 

Can anyone help?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

Re: Wiring for a accessory bus.

Bill Wilken
 

While I did not use any decoders with my turnouts, my 30 or so turnouts are all powered by a small 5 volt transformer connected to a wiring terminal block.  It works very nicely.


On Oct 26, 2018, at 1:44 PM, maymeral.gordons via Groups.Io <maymeral.gordons@...> wrote:

Hello,

 

I’m new to this forum so please be gentle with me.

I am from the UK and I’m in the process of wiring a layout which would be considered modest by US standard. When complete, I expect to be running with about 70 Tortoise point motors operated by an appropriate number of Switch 8 decoders.

It seems that the general opinion is that I should power these via a dedicated accessory bus and I can appreciate the logic in this.

However, with electronics not being my number 1 subject, I am at a bit of a loss as to what I need and how it should be assembles.

 

My operating system will be a Power Cab used as a simple throttle with Smart Booster.

The layout will be split into 4 separate power districts.

 

Can anyone help?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

Re: Wiring for a accessory bus.

Don Vollrath
 

Power all of the switch 8s directly from the booster output. That would constitute an accessory bus. Power each track power district through an appropriate circuit breaker.
DonV

Re: NCE Mini-Panel and F2

 

Hi Bob,

The simplest way to get a fully independent supply is to purchase a
"wall wart" or a "brick" supply with appropriate ratings.  So each
Circuitron will draw 15mA.  Allow another 30mA for your DCC control
board.  So you need 12 Volts at 70x45mA=3.2 Amperes.  So you should
probably get a supply rated for 4 Amperes.  This probably gets you into
the brick category. 

Here is a supply that would do the job:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/globtek-inc/TR9CE5000LCP-N-R6B/1939-1237-ND/8598040
Globtek TR9CE5000LCP-N(R6B).  It is rated for 5 Amperes and is
compatible with your house voltage and regulation situation.

I think you could save a lot of money on both power supply and the
turnouts by purchasing the MP1 from MTB-Model:
https://www.mtb-model.com/pages/mp1.php?lang=en

These turnout motors are slow motion.  Draw no power when in position
and have a set of protected auxiliary contacts that are ideal for
powering frogs.   I would contact them for a good decoder to drive them
as you and they are both in Europe.

I am using them here in the USA and am very happy with them.

Best,

Ken Harstine

Empire Express newbi

Rob Powers
 

looking for experienced empire express ho modeling folks. HELP!

Programming track "short" message on NCE Powercab

Nick Ostrosky
 

Using the NCE Powercab it was my understanding that your entire layout can be used as the programming track since NCE doesn't have separate programming track outputs.  However, when I attempt to use "Program Track" (vs. Program on Main") my cab gives me "Short Detected", and if I press enter it asks if I want to continue anyway.  I have no problem operating locomotives, and my entire layout is wired with circuit breakers and auto-reversers (one wye, one loop), none of which is showing a short or giving me any operating troubles.  Has anyone else run into this issue, and does anyone have suggestions for troubleshooting since there are no obvious indicators of a problem?  Thanks!