Date   

Re: Rotary switch

john
 

Switch machines are not high current so almost any rotary switch should work. It does need to be Brake before make so it doesn't activate two switches at once. If more than one turnout is going to operate at a position, you will need 2 decks, 3 turnouts require 3 decks. 
If you are using slow machines, there are three ways to operate them:
(1) You can use a split transformer with a single common. Each power lead will power a switch in a different direction. Same as above, the maximum number of turnouts operated, decides the number of decks. (This is by far the cheapest way to operate a ladder.) 
(2) Another way to do it is to operate relays to throw turnouts. you only need one deck but the paths are controlled by a diode matrix.
Either method is incredibly simple to operate one turn out, but becomes progressively more difficult with the addition of turnouts. 
(3) You could operate them with a computer and there are programs available but IO devices get pricy. 
Information on all three of the systems are available on the website. 
Twin coil machines seem to work well with push buttons and center sprung toggle switches if you have a sufficient power supply to operate the maximum number of switches needed. 
Oh, the rotary switches, check at your electronics surplus, new switches are pricy. Don't look for the exact number of positions you need, you don't have to use them all. Many relays allow extra positions to be blocked. 
The most important decisions is going to be made at some point when something stops working, which system are you going to be able to fix.
Wow, it looks like I complicated your life. 
jd


On Wednesday, October 10, 2018 9:42 PM, Brett Johnson via Groups.Io <susanhubby01@...> wrote:


Hello,

Can someone recommend a rotary switch for a yard ladder in HO scale?
Thanks
Brett Johnson


--
Brett Johnson






Rotary switch

susanhubby01@...
 

Hello,

Can someone recommend a rotary switch for a yard ladder in HO scale?
Thanks
Brett Johnson


--
Brett Johnson


Re: Turnout position

Don Vollrath
 

If you are using the NCE Switch Kat decoders be sure to look at https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200918205-Switch-Kat-for-Kato-Lemaco-or-LGB-remote-control-turnouts. They already have an indicator output. Then substitute in either one or two opto-isolators instead of the LEDs or incandescent lamps shown in the diagrams to indicate the last known turnout position . As other have said, then use the open collector output(s) of the opto-isolators to activate the input(s) of your favorite type of input device to get to Railroad.com software on your PC.

DonV  


Turnout position

General
 

Hi Folks!  I am new here and at age 81 decided to get into N scale.  What is the best way to feed turnout position info to Railroad.com software using KATO turnouts with NCE switch kat decoders?                                     
Allan


Re: Hornby Pendolo digital

Richard Sutcliffe
 

Thanks Theo

Kinda what I figured.

Guess we would have to hard wire - the 7 pin stock is not a recognized DCC configuration.

On Oct 3, 2018, at 1:25 AM, Theo van Riet <tvanriet@...> wrote:




Op 3 okt. 2018, om 07:04 heeft Richard Sutcliffe <ras1@...> het volgende geschreven:


When placed on a Digitrax programming track there no acknowledgement (na).
Looking inside there is a mother board with another board plugged into a 7 pin socket.

Am I right in assuming the second board, with a number of components, simply bridges the motor to the track?



The board, plugged in the 7pin socket has to be replaced by a decoder of his choice, then it will start reacting on digital signals.
This looks to me as an analog train, prepared for digital…

Theo


--                 
Greetings from the heath in the north of Belgium 





Dick Sutcliffe

Secretary
Dewdney-Alouette Railway Society



Re: Hornby Pendolo digital

Theo van Riet
 




Op 3 okt. 2018, om 07:04 heeft Richard Sutcliffe <ras1@...> het volgende geschreven:


When placed on a Digitrax programming track there no acknowledgement (na).
Looking inside there is a mother board with another board plugged into a 7 pin socket.

Am I right in assuming the second board, with a number of components, simply bridges the motor to the track?



The board, plugged in the 7pin socket has to be replaced by a decoder of his choice, then it will start reacting on digital signals.
This looks to me as an analog train, prepared for digital…

Theo


--                 
Greetings from the heath in the north of Belgium 





Hornby Pendolo digital

Richard Sutcliffe
 

One of the new members of our club, recently from the UK, brought in a Hornby Pendolino set. 
The packaging has reference to “Digital” & "NMRA Dcc” as well as NMRA compatible.

When placed on a Digitrax programming track there no acknowledgement (na).
Looking inside there is a mother board with another board plugged into a 7 pin socket.

Am I right in assuming the second board, with a number of components, simply bridges the motor to the track?

The unit does run on straight DC, but there is no response on DCC address 3, 1, 2, or 12.

Dick Sutcliffe
Secretary
Dewdney-Alouette Railway Society


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

Kurt Konrath
 

A lot less if you build your own!

But much easier to buy one!

I hand lay most of my switches with Fast Track jigs. 

Kurt


On Sep 28, 2018, at 4:29 PM, redking56@... wrote:

Yes, the double slip will cost you over $80.

Rich


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

redking56@...
 

Yes, the double slip will cost you over $80.

Rich


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

Tom Stephens
 

This link is for a #6 crossing – not a double slip switch.
I would expect it to be cheaper.
Tom
 


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

Rob Powers
 

Awesome, and thanks. 


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

Keith Elrod
 

Modeltrainstuff.com has it at $32.99 and Trainmastermodels.com (Buford, GA) has it at $23.37. I shop both these stores on a regular basis.

Keith

On Sep 28, 2018, at 8:22 AM, Dennis Cherry <dbcherry@...> wrote:

i think this might be a mistake in pricing here:

https://tonystrains.com/product/peco-sl-u8364-ho-code-83-with-unifrog-6-crossing/

A good buy .


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

 

i think this might be a mistake in pricing here:

https://tonystrains.com/product/peco-sl-u8364-ho-code-83-with-unifrog-6-crossing/

A good buy .


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

redking56@...
 

The Peco Double Slip Unifrog is excellent. It is, indeed, "easy to use and install" (and wire).

I recently purchases four of them as part of my passenger station track complex.

Rich


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

Don Vollrath
 

I agree. If it works there is no reason to change.
DonV


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

 

The only one that seems available right now is the double slips.

https://www.amazon.com/Peco-SL-U8382-Double-Turnout-Unifrog/dp/B01EUACBJ8


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

wirefordcc
 

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for the kind words.  And thanks for helping justify the time I spend doing this!  Now that I am retired, I'm getting to spend more time on my website.  Right now, I'm reading Digitrax and NCE manuals to get caught up with the world.

BTW everybody, we've all heard about the new Peco Unifrog turnouts.  I hear they are not in code 83 yet.  When they are, someone drop me a line or post here on this forum if you find out before I do.  I'll buy one right away and will post my findings on my website like I've done for the other Pecos.

I have a PM42 and used it for a long time before I bought a PSX-AR.  I bought the PSX-AR because I found the trip and release points of the PM42 tricky to set.  I could never seem to have something that always worked with all my sound equipped locomotives.

I've never loved the edge card connector. You need to add in the cost of the connector when you are figuring on using a PM42.  If you don't want wires yanking on the edge card connector, I went and ran wires from the edge card connector to a terminal strip where my track bus wires tied in.  You don't have to do this, but if you do, figure in the cost and the time to do this.

That being said, if you are using PM42s and they are working well for you, by all means, keep using them!

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC


Re: Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

Jerry Michels
 

Allan,  Thanks for updating "The DCC Bible!"  I truly enjoyed reading the new material. You efforts have made a huge difference in our ability to correctly wire the Amarillo Railroad Museum layout.

To the larger group, our layout invested a lot of our capital in Digitrax PM42 circuit breakers quite a few years back.  However, most seem to be of the opinion that DCCSpecialities PSX-ARFB, specifically equipped with block detection and network feedback as being superior to the PM42s.  Looking at all the data I can find, I have to agree.  But my concern is the price.  We have over 60 blocks on the layout, at the going price (approximately $60), this would take over $3,600.  I wonder if this sort of investment outweighs staying with the PM42s.  

Thanks,

Jerry Michels
Amarillo Railroad Museum


Wiring For DCC Update Announcement

wirefordcc
 

I've made some updates to the Wiring For DCC website.  Here's the link to the What's New section:  http://wiringfordcc.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1

Topics
include:

1.  Radio Shack has an isle at Hobby Town.
2.  George T. Galyon's HO Turnout Compendium.
3.  Using a command station in booster mode could result in runaway trains.
4.  Using circuit breakers and auto-reversers.

More on the way!  In the meantime, enjoy!

Allan Gartner
Wiring For DCC


Next Test Layout 50" x 88" ...Before I go on to make an even Bigger Mistake.

Mark Cartwright <marcdecapri@...>
 

Years, ago; a friend of mine got this Gleam in his eye...Where you going? I said, To meet up with my next ex-wife.
Yes, he married her and yes, they got divorced.
One might think, we could eventually learn; but where's the fun in that !
=====
Before, I go on to making an even Bigger Mistake in a Main Layout....I have decided to first create a 50" x 88" Test Layout, just beyond the ramifications/specifications of NMRA's RP-11.
=====
Perhaps I should mention, I have tested nearly 200 different N Scale Locomotives and 199 of them run effectively on 28/30" Radius at 1.5% or lesser Grades, along with #10 or greater turnouts.
What I don't know is what happens to the Fleet at between 22" to a 24"radius; with only #10 layouts on a standard grade of 1.5%....Also to complete a turn yet travel over an Operational (Lionel) Bridge with a full train in tow. Took me some time, to learn NOT to test a layout with a single locomotive.
Ever try to run a prototypical train of today with 158 cars, with 8 consisted, speed matched locomotives?
Good Luck with that !
=====
To begin with...
This Test Layout will begin with basically two parallel Outside Radius.
Beyond that ?

> I really do not know, I have a specific need in me to create a Semi-Begginng Rail Layout, best described as what the Central Pacific was doing to Northern California circa 1881; but what I will probably end up with is something more akin to the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe circa 1900 in actual trackage.
WYE?
Cause that is what I grew up with....Cross-Tie Walking the old rails of the ATSF, Southern Pacific and Western Pacific. Many of these old rails have been taken out by Modern UP and BNSF Railroaders. Yet, I find within myself a mindset of what I grew up to know. Maybe BNSF/UP modern specifications; for my next Main Layout, but I have no plans for Concrete Ties on this layout; nor high speed rail.
Instead....(belaying my totes full of Kato Unitrack, nearly all salvaged from other people's layouts) I am considering for this one to go Atlas Code 55 with it's ready made #10 Turnouts.
I may create one or two #12's with Fast Track Jigs or already partially assembled by BTS. These will probably all be controlled by ESU Servers.
========
Further, what I am not yet satisfied with ...Are any basic Track Plans as found on the internet.
One of the best selected, for example has two major conflicts in it, which may derail my N Scale Brass Steam Locomotives with DCC and Sound.
Further, I have already grown flustered with the basic rectangular shape. This frustration began nearly as soon as I began an attempt to lay down some basic Northern California Scenery, along with renditions of prototype Civil War Era buildings, known to exist in 1895. However, as soon as I sided this 50" x 88" layout with yet another hollow (32"x71") door, recreating it into an even bigger L Shaped Layout, a smile returned to my lips.
===
This all prompted me to move out of my downstairs bedroom and move upstairs; taking over the entire floor.  (My main Train Room is below this.)
Seems I can't get out of my own way.
===
Now back to DCC Wiring....?
I have been using Kato Unitrack mostly for the past 5 years.
Today, at least for this test layout, I am considering using Atlas Code 55...but not on modules as I have previously created.
Instead, going back to a near old school method of continuously soldered track with a drop down 12 Gauge Lead, every 18 inches.
At best there may be just one snap together junction, at the apex of the L.
Both Tables so to speak; are on their own rolling base. However, even at this juncture, I may solder it all as well.
Here is my Mindset of Today.
LokSound DCC in N Scale Brass Locomotives, with their DCC Controller being an ESU ECoS.
Derails, Glitches and Decoder Resets...Oh My!
I would really like to stop divorcing all my layouts, as I have done so many times before.
I just turned 65, I am gettin too old to Continue to Begin Again; so I am considering a continuous solder.
Mark

See the problem yet with a 50" Width on one side but only a 32" width to the other?
I may soon regret not widening the 32" width to at least 40 inches.
This L offshoot however, will not directly affect my double 24/22" Parallel Test Ovals.