Date   
Re: Pinning, Screwing or Nailing Down a Helix?

Timothy Holmes
 

great timing on this thread.  I am going to be starting a helix in a few weeks (money dependant) - I am in N scale, and will be using 12 - 14 inch radius.  It will be built on 1/2 inch plywood, 2 1/2 inch spacing between levels, I'll be either feeding each joiner or soldering all the joints, (not sure yet, advice wanted) and im wondering how best to secure the track to the plywood.  It shouldnt change dimensions much being plywood, im using Microengineering code 55 flex track

Thanks
TIM

On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 11:29 AM Mark Cartwright via Groups.Io <marcdecapri=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have previously used Four Small long screws to hold my Helix in place per level. One at each direction + for the four soldered-up segments.
>> I now see where this was possibly not 100% Correct/Best > Based on Expansion Humidity and the rigidity of soldered Kato Unitrack.
Instead?
As read in another Post here...
One may not only be enough but best = So at least my Helix in Four Kato Unitrack Soldered Segments can expand/detract along all four lateral axis.
Further, for side to side expansion along the 180 degree curve at each end?
I am further segmenting each 180 degree Curve into Two - 90 Degree segments....and nailing down neither.
==> Only one screw on one side on the straight.
====
At least with Kato Unitrack in N Scale...Thank you.
Didn't consider it at first but Yes, I now believe one screw per level may be the best compromise.
Thank you for the discussion and shared experiences.
Mark

it was fairly easy to create 30" companion radius to the given 28" Kato Radius by cutting the Unitrack with a Razor Saw.
A further note, I first started a Helix using Kato V-16 kits but found their 19" radius, even in Super Elevation Not to be wide enough for some of my best Steam Locomotives. If you are limited in space or only to ever run Diesels or Short to Medium Steam then a Helix made from V16 kits might be good enough.
> Not yet sure about Kato/Tomix/Con Cor Bullet Trains; such as the Aerotrain or Zephyr?
> I have read that such trains may need a 36" radius.

--

Tim 

San Luis and Rio Grande

Re: Wiring a Helix for DCC

Stephen Lamb
 

I'm out in the Scottish West Highlands. The standing joke is that the precipitation exceeds the evaporation !!!! Our ambient humidity is very high. I decided on natural ventilation because its the fast cycle between the peaks and troughs that cause the warping. I habitually coat everything constructed from ply, thin timber or balsa for buildings and structures with a 50/50 PVA mix to seal surfaces. It also adds a lot of stiffness and provides a good surface to sand. The inner plywood walls  and ceiling of the shed were painted a Sky Blue matt emulsion mixed with PVA. Another good substance is the PVA/latex mix that builders use as a concrete waterproofer additive.

Re: Wiring a Helix for DCC

Charles Brumbelow
 

And then there is this... Charles


On Jun 10, 2018, at 3:49 PM, Charles Brumbelow via Groups.Io <mrb37211@...> wrote:

Speaking of helixes and their wiring...

https://youtu.be/-hPuNFjRTZA

Charles

Re: Wiring a Helix for DCC

Brian Eiland
 



On Sun, Jun 10, 2018 at 10:20 AM, Stephen Lamb via Groups.Io <stephen489@...> wrote:
I'm out in the Scottish West Highlands. The standing joke is that the precipitation exceeds the evaporation !!!! Our ambient humidity is very high. I decided on natural ventilation because its the fast cycle between the peaks and troughs that cause the warping. I habitually coat everything constructed from ply, thin timber or balsa for buildings and structures with a 50/50 PVA mix to seal surfaces. It also adds a lot of stiffness and provides a good surface to sand. The inner plywood walls  and ceiling of the shed were painted a Sky Blue matt emulsion mixed with PVA. Another good substance is the PVA/latex mix that builders use as a concrete waterproofer additive.

I was going to ask about that type of product as i have a few cans of it,...concrete, masonry sealer . One of them is silconized?
Brian
_._,

Re: Hello

Dale Gloer
 

David,

all the best tips for Peco Electrofrog are covered in the wiringfordcc website.  Here is the link to the Peco section.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm

Dale Gloer

Re: Wiring a Helix for DCC

Stephen Lamb
 

That sounds like silicon wall sealer you paint on porous masonry and is normally clearan comes in cans. The PVA/latex mix is milky colour and comes in 5litre plastic containers.

Re: Wiring a Helix for DCC

Brian Eiland
 

You are correct, my is the clear silicon wall sealer and came in a 5 gal can. But the top of the can is rusty and partially open, so I just may not use it. My contractor friend says the PVA latex sealer is what they use on drywall, so best use something like that.

Wiring for DCC Topics Only Please

wirefordcc
 

All,

We are having some good discussions, but we need to get back to topics relating to wiring for DCC.  We have a lot of members who subscribe to this forum for wiring discussions.  People quit when unrelated topics become the norm.

Thank you for your understanding.

Allan Gartner
Wiring for DCC

District Wiring for an N Scale 10x15 foot layout using an ESU ECoS?

Mark Cartwright
 

>> District Wiring for an N Scale 10x15 foot layout using an ESU ECoS?
So where does one go to discuss such a coming event?
Gotcha !
===
Actually, I am not so alone on all this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQPvX-LBAIw
I will be adding block detection and things I can't even begin to talk about cause I don't really know what I am doing.
:)) Mark

Re: Wiring for DCC Topics Only Please

oldgrunt1cav@...
 

Amen  Allan and Amen !!!! 

I'm 87 years and need all the help I can get w/o distractions.  Just about ready to start wiring for DCC on a 16 x 60 ft layout.  (  Hopefully, the grim
reaper stays away).  Where can contributions be sent to enable the continued support of this program for future generations? Thanks for advising.

Re: Hello

David Hartley <hartleycom@...>
 

Dale hello
Thanks for this top tip. 
Unfortunately I’ve experienced an intervention during fitting requiring me to catch the Caledonian Sleeper to Dundee pulled by 90 043 and now returning on the 11:07 to Kings Cross class 43 having just left Newcastle all First Class. Life can be tough at times  but the Senior Card helps! I’ll let you know what happens when I flick the switch. 
Best
David 

by Virgin Mail

On 11 Jun 2018, at 3:58 pm, Dale Gloer <dale.gloer@...> wrote:

David,

all the best tips for Peco Electrofrog are covered in the wiringfordcc website.  Here is the link to the Peco section.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm

Dale Gloer

Problem with reversing Section

Timothy Holmes
 

Hi Folks:

Not sure what is happening here -- I have a reversing loop, with an isolated section.  As the loco enters the section it stops.  The track shows 15VAC, but the engine goes completely dead.  Im headed out to do some more troubleshooting, but thought I'd get a couple messages out in hopes of some suggestions

Thanks
TIM
--

Tim 

San Luis and Rio Grande

Re: Problem with reversing Section

john
 

   You didn't mention what kind of reverser you are using so your help will be general.
   The input to the reverser is your non-isolated track and the output to the reversing section. Your instructions tell you where to install each wire but I think you have your output pair reversed. 
   You can verify your wiring with "wiring for DCC" information although maybe not you specific reverser. Once you figure out the first on you are an expert and you can install everyone's.
john


On Saturday, June 16, 2018 1:22 PM, Timothy Holmes <taholmes160@...> wrote:


Hi Folks:

Not sure what is happening here -- I have a reversing loop, with an isolated section.  As the loco enters the section it stops.  The track shows 15VAC, but the engine goes completely dead.  Im headed out to do some more troubleshooting, but thought I'd get a couple messages out in hopes of some suggestions

Thanks
TIM
--
Tim 
San Luis and Rio Grande



Detecting shorts?

Robert Wilson
 

Hi - many sites recommend using a homemade short circuit detection buzzer while laying track. I’m wondering if a continuity setting on a multimeter would accomplish the same thing? In other words, if you connected a lead to each rail and you had crossed your wires, would the continuity beep on the multimeter indicating that you had a flow of current from one rail to the other? Or would that not work?

Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0

Douglas Harrison <sd90mach@...>
 

I have a interesting problem with this loco. Some months ago it was knocked off my work bench and hit the concrete floor. The only damage I could find, at the time, was the hold down peg under the cab floor was broken off. Repaired that, put it all back together and tried a test run. It jerked, hesitated and would not preform well as it used to. The loco and tender were not joined together, only the loco came to grief!!
I packed it up and put it away and a couple of days ago decided to have a really good investigation to see if I could work out what was causing the erratic running. Stripped it down to it's basic units, tested the motor and side frames and the motor ran very smoothly. Check the running gear, it had no problems, put these two sub assemblies back together and all ran smoothly. Coupled the tender and loco back together and the same problem was there. The only thing I can put this down to is that there is an intermittent break in one of the cables between the two components, if so how does one repair these. The price of these parts from Bachmann is reasonable, but the international shipping rates are outlandish.
Ant one have any thoughts or ideas on how to fix this.
Thanks
Douglas Harrison
Christchurch
New Zealand.

Re: Detecting shorts?

Paul O
 

Yes Rob, that will work.

Paul O

On Jun 19, 2018, at 4:50 PM, robwwilson@... wrote:

Hi - many sites recommend using a homemade short circuit detection buzzer while laying track. I’m wondering if a continuity setting on a multimeter would accomplish the same thing? In other words, if you connected a lead to each rail and you had crossed your wires, would the continuity beep on the multimeter indicating that you had a flow of current from one rail to the other? Or would that not work?

Re: Detecting shorts?

Dennis Cherry
 

Yes, I use that method. One point you also have to know is some DVM’s have a timer and will turn the DVM off after a given time of none use.

 

A buzzer and battery is a better chose for long periods of time between making polarity connection checks.

 

Dennis Cherry

 

Created on my Desktop PC.

 

Re: Detecting shorts?

Glenn
 

Are you using the meter intermittently? Leaving it on will run down the battery quickly.

I recommend making the buzzer and clipping it to the rails or better, the main track connection with alligator clips. It will always be "on" so when a short occurs you will be notified immediately. Additionally you would not have move from where you might be to check.

An alternative would be a battery and a lamp/LED. It's passive, you would need to check it when each connection is made, not listen.

Glenn

-----Original Message-----
From: robwwilson@...
Sent: Jun 19, 2018 4:50 PM
To: w4dccqa@groups.io
Subject: [w4dccqa] Detecting shorts?

Hi - many sites recommend using a homemade short circuit detection buzzer while laying track. I’m wondering if a continuity setting on a multimeter would accomplish the same thing? In other words, if you connected a lead to each rail and you had crossed your wires, would the continuity beep on the multimeter indicating that you had a flow of current from one rail to the other? Or would that not work?
_._,_._,_


Re: Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0

Don Vollrath
 

Doug,
If only the loco hit the floor... where was the DCC decoder... In the tender?
It sounds like you verified that the loco itself runs smoothly, but was that testing done with DC (not DCC)? How did you get power to the motor?
If the jerky running only occurs with the tender connected it sounds like there is a broken wire connection or power pick-up issue in the loco or between the loco and tender. Carefully verify that no wires are broken, especially around any connectors.

I have one of those BS units as well that suddenly stopped all running. I suspect a broken wire. But how does one open the darn thing without breaking something?

DonV   

Re: Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0

Dale Gloer
 

Don/Douglas,

I have 2 BS 2-8-0s and have had both apart.  The body shell is one piece and attached by hooking over the front of the cast side frames and one screw under the drawbar (not the drawbar attachment screw) at the rear.  Just remove the screw, raise the cab end of the shell to clear the motor and slide the shell forward a bit and lift off.  I don't remember whether you need to remove the handrails at the back of the cab or not.

Hope this helps.

Dale Gloer