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New file uploaded to WiringForDCC

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Re: Hopefully starting new layout

Timothy Holmes
 

Hi Mark:

thanks for the good advice locomotives will be a mix of SD90/Mac43
(probably kato) and FP40s (not sure who) and maybe if I am lucky a few
broadway imports Modern Diesels w/ paragon 3 sound -- hopefully everything
will be sound decoder equipped

Train lenght -- initially it will be " representative trains" probably 5 -
8 cars because the distances between towns etc will be short

The layout will be built in a 10x10 bedroom, this will be N scale -- it
will be around 3 walls on 2 decks -- 1 ft wide with the exception of the
south wall which will be 2 feet wide

THis isnt my first layout, but it is my first in N scale

Im planning to use NCE equipment, the layout will be signaled and lit using
LightIt decoders and I am leaning heavily toward the Walthers DCC switch
machines b/c the decoder is in them and they are a lot cheaper than
circuitron -- we'll see -- gonna do a test

Im leaning towards micro-engineering flex track (code 55 if available --
need to do some research today) and possibly peco switches -- again a
research item for today

I'll be using the MiniPanel product to handle a lot of the layout
automation stuff -- signaling and switch control etc --

THe layout is designed for operation -- initially it will be a one man
show, but eventually if i can find another operator or 2 I may set up for
multi operator use

If the list will allow, I have attached the layout design to this e-mail,
if it does not they are in the San Luis and Rio Grande folder in the files
area -- I dont have feeder points marked yet, nor detection blocks etc.

Thank you for the questions, they make me think through things ---
hopefully, sinces its a miserable day outside here today, this will be
standards day were a lot of the standards stuff will be defined (type of
track, type of switches etc)

Im REALLY Hoping for lots of input

TIM
San Luis and Rio Grande




What I would suggest...

Let us know what Locomotives you intend to use...and how long a Train
would you like to run on it ?
Next..
How much space do you have to work with?



--

Tim

San Luis and Rio Grande

Re: Hopefully starting new layout

vincent marino
 

Thanks Mark for your encouragement. It's my first serious layout on a 5x12 table. Going DCC and planning on as many loco as I can fit :), maybe 12. I have several areas to park them i.e. diesel shed, roundhouse. I had the tracks and turnouts running great before I went underneath with the wiring and track weathering. Now the track blocks are fine but the turnout block is an issue. Every turnout seems to have a short. When I remove them one by one off the layout each turnout exhibits a short. I'm beyond frustrated and disappointed. I really don't want to switch to a different manufacturer, I have bachmann ez track, but I may have to if I can't figure it out soon. Thanks for hearing my vent and again for your encouragement.


On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 12:19 AM marcdecapri@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Tim and Vince....

I have been Model Railroading since 1959, as a Six Year Old...Beginning Quitting and then beginning all over again.
===> My first word of advice....
This too will change.
Getting it right the first time? 
Good Luck with that, cause I don't think it's gonna happen.
===
What I would suggest...
Let us know what Locomotives you intend to use...and how long a Train would you like to run on it ?
Next..
How much space do you have to work with?
===
Here's the thing yet I don't mean to discourage you...but the trick is simply to SURVIVE your first layout.
Good Luck
:)) Mark

Re: Short Buss Wire Gauge

Greg Williams <gregw66@...>
 

Sorry for the duplicate posts. Thanks Yahoo Groups. Have we considered a switch to Groups.io? It's the way groups are supposed to work.

GregW66

Re: Hopefully starting new layout

vincent marino
 

I wish there was an automatic soldering gun. Underneath the table is a real challenge for us mature guys :)


On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 10:12 AM 'Ron St.Laurent' r.stlaurent@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Tim,

I am also a firm believer in soldered connections to the bus.  Be sure to stagger your connecting drops to the bus.  In other words do not allow your connections the possibility of shorting together.  Also I would highly recommend this kind of wire stripper https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=wire+stripper
This type is available from many suppliers.  This stripper actually "pushes" the insulation apart to allow your jumper to be soldered.  This is illustrated at minute 1:40 on this video How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper
This will save you a ton of time.  Good luck.

Ron St.Laurent
Lansing Model Railroad Club




On Friday, April 27, 2018 10:30 AM, "Tim Holmes taholmes160@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 
HI guys -- im hopefully starting a layout this weekend with a test module -- the layout will be made of 1x2 foot sections (for ease of handling) -- my thoughts are 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power bus, and ideally 20 or 22 gauge risers to the track -- every section to have a riser on it to ensure good connections. 

I'll probably strip back sections of the bus, and solder the risers to it again to ensure good connectivity.

What else should I be doing -- I am planning to use NCE system, and I really want to get this right the FIRST time 

TIM
San Luis and Rio Grande
--
Tim 
San Luis and Rio Grande



Re: Hopefully starting new layout

george hohon3
 

Use the correctly sized suitcase connectors and your feeder wires will be connected forever, and without soldering in an upside down position.

LG


On Apr 28, 2018, at 8:04 AM, Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 

I wish there was an automatic soldering gun. Underneath the table is a real challenge for us mature guys :)

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 10:12 AM 'Ron St.Laurent' r.stlaurent@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Tim,

I am also a firm believer in soldered connections to the bus.  Be sure to stagger your connecting drops to the bus.  In other words do not allow your connections the possibility of shorting together.  Also I would highly recommend this kind of wire stripper https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=wire+stripper
This type is available from many suppliers.  This stripper actually "pushes" the insulation apart to allow your jumper to be soldered.  This is illustrated at minute 1:40 on this video How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper
This will save you a ton of time.  Good luck.

Ron St.Laurent
Lansing Model Railroad Club




On Friday, April 27, 2018 10:30 AM, "Tim Holmes taholmes160@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 
HI guys -- im hopefully starting a layout this weekend with a test module -- the layout will be made of 1x2 foot sections (for ease of handling) -- my thoughts are 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power bus, and ideally 20 or 22 gauge risers to the track -- every section to have a riser on it to ensure good connections. 

I'll probably strip back sections of the bus, and solder the risers to it again to ensure good connectivity.

What else should I be doing -- I am planning to use NCE system, and I really want to get this right the FIRST time 

TIM
San Luis and Rio Grande
--
Tim 
San Luis and Rio Grande



Re: Hopefully starting new layout

Timothy Holmes
 

Good morning everyone -- is there a suitcase connector that will go from 10 gauge bus wire to 20 or 22 gauge riser -- im considering using solid core wire from ethernet cables as my risers -- 

on a related note, im assuming there will be more than one riser in a detection section, so how do I handle that with  BD-20 block detectors?  do all the wires have to go through the detector? one detector for each riser?  

Thanks
TIM

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 10:34 PM george hohon3 hohon3@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Use the correctly sized suitcase connectors and your feeder wires will be connected forever, and without soldering in an upside down position.

LG


On Apr 28, 2018, at 8:04 AM, Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 

I wish there was an automatic soldering gun. Underneath the table is a real challenge for us mature guys :)

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 10:12 AM 'Ron St.Laurent' r.stlaurent@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Tim,

I am also a firm believer in soldered connections to the bus.  Be sure to stagger your connecting drops to the bus.  In other words do not allow your connections the possibility of shorting together.  Also I would highly recommend this kind of wire stripper https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=wire+stripper
This type is available from many suppliers.  This stripper actually "pushes" the insulation apart to allow your jumper to be soldered.  This is illustrated at minute 1:40 on this video How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper
This will save you a ton of time.  Good luck.

Ron St.Laurent
Lansing Model Railroad Club




On Friday, April 27, 2018 10:30 AM, "Tim Holmes taholmes160@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 
HI guys -- im hopefully starting a layout this weekend with a test module -- the layout will be made of 1x2 foot sections (for ease of handling) -- my thoughts are 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power bus, and ideally 20 or 22 gauge risers to the track -- every section to have a riser on it to ensure good connections. 

I'll probably strip back sections of the bus, and solder the risers to it again to ensure good connectivity.

What else should I be doing -- I am planning to use NCE system, and I really want to get this right the FIRST time 

TIM
San Luis and Rio Grande
--
Tim 
San Luis and Rio Grande



--

Tim 

San Luis and Rio Grande

DCCSwap groups to buy/Sell/Swap ONLY DCC/LCC everything

Dennis Cherry
 

I started a new Group called DCCSwap.

This site is only for DCC/LCC related items. Read the conditions.

The group will have minimal monitoring and the first 2 posts will need to be approved before being listed, then its up to you.

I will check in and if something does not comply, then action could be taken.

Read the conditions, it should spell out the rules.

https://groups.io/g/DCCSwap

Thanks
Dennis


Re: Hopefully starting new layout

Max Maginness
 

I a word – no, or at least not reliably.   

 As examples see this 3M 14-22   and this

 

However the answer to your BD -20 question is addressed by these two sizes  – tap a 14 or 16 ga. wire as a sub-buss off one of the  main feeder wires, run this sub buss through the BD-20  and connect   the all track droppers  for one rail of the detected  section to it. Droppers for the other rail can go to a sub buss off the other main feeder wire, but of course no BD-20.

And don’t forget to insulate the detected rail from the adjacent section  rails.

If you are going to use a lot, a proper tool is recommended or the “connected forever” may be more hopeful than real.

And BTW just how big a layout are you contemplating, 10g main feeders is massive overkill for most cases.

Max

 

From: WiringForDCC@...
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2018 4:08 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: Re: [WiringForDCC] Hopefully starting new layout

 

 

Good morning everyone -- is there a suitcase connector that will go from 10 gauge bus wire to 20 or 22 gauge riser -- im considering using solid core wire from ethernet cables as my risers -- 

 

on a related note, im assuming there will be more than one riser in a detection section, so how do I handle that with  BD-20 block detectors?  do all the wires have to go through the detector? one detector for each riser?  

 

Thanks

TIM

 

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018 at 10:34 PM george hohon3 hohon3@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 

Use the correctly sized suitcase connectors and your feeder wires will be connected forever, and without soldering in an upside down position.

 

LG


On Apr 28, 2018, at 8:04 AM, Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 

I wish there was an automatic soldering gun. Underneath the table is a real challenge for us mature guys :)

 

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 10:12 AM 'Ron St.Laurent' r.stlaurent@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 

Hi Tim,

 

I am also a firm believer in soldered connections to the bus.  Be sure to stagger your connecting drops to the bus.  In other words do not allow your connections the possibility of shorting together.  Also I would highly recommend this kind of wire stripper https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=wire+stripper

This type is available from many suppliers.  This stripper actually "pushes" the insulation apart to allow your jumper to be soldered.  This is illustrated at minute 1:40 on this video How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper

This will save you a ton of time.  Good luck.

 

Ron St.Laurent

Lansing Model Railroad Club

 

How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper

In this how-to video, Gary shows us how to use the new automatic, self-adjusting wire stripper from Klein Tools....

 

 

On Friday, April 27, 2018 10:30 AM, "Tim Holmes taholmes160@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

 

 

HI guys -- im hopefully starting a layout this weekend with a test module -- the layout will be made of 1x2 foot sections (for ease of handling) -- my thoughts are 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power bus, and ideally 20 or 22 gauge risers to the track -- every section to have a riser on it to ensure good connections. 

 

I'll probably strip back sections of the bus, and solder the risers to it again to ensure good connectivity.

 

What else should I be doing -- I am planning to use NCE system, and I really want to get this right the FIRST time 

 

TIM

San Luis and Rio Grande

--

Tim 

San Luis and Rio Grande

 

--

Tim 

San Luis and Rio Grande

Reverse Loop inside another reverse loop

Ed
 

I have a reverse loop that is controlled by a PSX-AR and I have added a quarry at the end of this loop that is controlled by a wye.  I understand that this creates another reverse loop but that I can manually control the turnout at the end of the wye using a DPDT switch. My question is: what does this do to the PSX-AR sensing functions - with or without another loco in the original loop?

Ed Robinson


Re: Reverse Loop inside another reverse loop

dvollrath@...
 

Ed,

It makes no difference to the original AR unit unless you cause a short circuit on those tracks. Use a separate DPDT switch in concert with the Wye turnout leading to the loco turnaround stub to flip the polarity to it. Just remember to flip the switch correctly every time. Be sure that that turnout is not of the power routing type and/or make sure the frog rails are insulated from other tracks leading up to it. The main power feed to the switch should be the reversing output side of the PSX-AR. You could also use a 2nd PSX-AR to power the turnout wye stub if the DPDT switch is too inconvenient. Just adjust the timing of the two units to not interfere with each other.


DonV

---In WiringForDCC@..., <lehighman@...> wrote :

I have a reverse loop that is controlled by a PSX-AR and I have added a quarry at the end of this loop that is controlled by a wye.  I understand that this creates another reverse loop but that I can manually control the turnout at the end of the wye using a DPDT switch. My question is: what does this do to the PSX-AR sensing functions - with or without another loco in the original loop?

Ed Robinson


Re: Hopefully starting new layout

Timothy Holmes
 

Hi Max, the layout will be 1 foot wide around 3 walls of a 10x10 room in 2 layers with a helix and one wall will be 2 feet wide for yards and staging

I like your idea for the sub busses in the detected sections -- and I think soldering to the busses is the way to go

TIM


On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 10:24 AM 'Max Maginness' m.maginness@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

I a word – no, or at least not reliably.   

 As examples see this 3M 14-22   and this

 

However the answer to your BD -20 question is addressed by these two sizes  – tap a 14 or 16 ga. wire as a sub-buss off one of the  main feeder wires, run this sub buss through the BD-20  and connect   the all track droppers  for one rail of the detected  section to it. Droppers for the other rail can go to a sub buss off the other main feeder wire, but of course no BD-20.

And don’t forget to insulate the detected rail from the adjacent section  rails.

If you are going to use a lot, a proper tool is recommended or the “connected forever” may be more hopeful than real.

And BTW just how big a layout are you contemplating, 10g main feeders is massive overkill for most cases.

Max


--

Tim 

San Luis and Rio Grande

Re: Hopefully starting new layout

Daniel Thomson
 

Tim,
No automatic soldering iron but there are Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs).  These are a crimp on connector that slips over the buss wire and accepts the feed wire along side and has a metal bridge that is squeezed down, displacing the insulations and jumping a connection between the wires.  At about one inch long and applied with a squeeze of pliers this is a solid, secure connection.  They can be purchased by gauge of the main wire and gauge of the feeder wire.  No wire stripping, no wire twisting, no hot irons.
Dan
Milwaukee-N-SouthEastern, Ltd club.



On April 28, 2018, at 11:05 AM, "Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 

I wish there was an automatic soldering gun. Underneath the table is a real challenge for us mature guys :)

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 10:12 AM 'Ron St.Laurent' r.stlaurent@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Tim,

I am also a firm believer in soldered connections to the bus.  Be sure to stagger your connecting drops to the bus.  In other words do not allow your connections the possibility of shorting together.  Also I would highly recommend this kind of wire stripper https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=wire+stripper
This type is available from many suppliers.  This stripper actually "pushes" the insulation apart to allow your jumper to be soldered.  This is illustrated at minute 1:40 on this video How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper
This will save you a ton of time.  Good luck.

Ron St.Laurent
Lansing Model Railroad Club




On Friday, April 27, 2018 10:30 AM, "Tim Holmes taholmes160@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 
HI guys -- im hopefully starting a layout this weekend with a test module -- the layout will be made of 1x2 foot sections (for ease of handling) -- my thoughts are 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power bus, and ideally 20 or 22 gauge risers to the track -- every section to have a riser on it to ensure good connections. 

I'll probably strip back sections of the bus, and solder the risers to it again to ensure good connectivity.

What else should I be doing -- I am planning to use NCE system, and I really want to get this right the FIRST time 

TIM
San Luis and Rio Grande
--
Tim 
San Luis and Rio Grande



Re: Kato Switches and DCC

Daniel Thomson
 

Vince,
Let's simplify a few points here.  First, Kato turnouts are well documented on how to insulate or power the rails in their packaging literature.  Second, the turnouts require their own D.C. power supply to throw them.  Third, they are NOT twin coil machines... explanation?  Twin coil are controlled by three wires, D.C. coil are controlled by two wires.  Mike Fifer of Fifer Hobby Supply has a good explanation of the difference and how to wire a DPDT (double pole double throw) momentary contact switch to control each one.  "How to Make Kato Turnout Controls" is a good websites search phrase.
This assumes you want to wire up the turnouts with traditional switches.  But, what if you want to use DCC to throw the turnouts?  There are many different brands of DCC interface Turnout Control Boards.  Some are for stall motor machines and some for twin coil machines.  The latter can be wired for D.C. coil types like Kato.  There are single unit board's but there are more economical board's that may control up to 8 turnouts.  A member of our club is up to turnout #90 off twelve board's so far.  Each one has a small number board near it.  He hits "Select Accy", the turnout #, and 1 or 2 for the direction... and the turnout throws.
It is NOT necessary to have Turnout Control Boards of the same brand as your DCC system.  Feel free to shop around.
Dan, pres.
Milwaukee-N-SouthEastern, Ltd. club.



On April 27, 2018, at 10:43 AM, "Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 

Mike you raised another question. The power supply for the turnouts are they separate from the dcc bus?

I guess confused on how to wire the dpdt switch. The center is for power supply explain the other connections again. I'm sorry I'm not getting it. 

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018, 9:36 PM Mike Gallagher azMikeG@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Vincent,
I would not use single pole switches at all. While there may be a way to hook them up, it is too simple to foul things up.
With a DPDT switch, the DC + and - wires go to the , and the two wires to the turnout go to the two center contacts. The two ends are hooked together with a criss-cross, or X.
When you test, if the turnout goes the wrong way when you hit the switch, you can reverse the wires at the turnout, or at the center contacts of the switch. If it would be easier, you can buss all the + sides together, and all the - sides together from the DC supply. I run my DC supply at 14 volts. Since it is just a momentary connection, it provides enough energy to move the turnout quickly.
Although it is not too helpful, I can post pictures if you want.

Peace,
Mike G.


On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 4:16 PM, Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Mike, I have a question. Can I use single pole momentary and connect the check other turnout wire to the bus wire?

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018, 7:07 PM Mike Gallagher azMikeG@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi  Vincent,
Just make sure that they are center off, momentary. Otherwise you will destroy the Kato coils.
The switches should not be very expensive. I have the miniature ones because of the size of my control panel. They were less than $2 each. I am guessing that they may not have increased very much.​ Simple to wire, just be careful soldering, because it is close quarters..

Peace,
Mike G.


On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 1:14 PM, Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Mike I agree that the decoders get complicated. I'm a simple man so the DPDT switches sound good to me. thanks again

Sincerely,
Vincent Marino
Vincent Marino
Affordable Roofing Contractors
Project Manager
904-260-7663 office
904-683-2914 fax
904-449-6339  mobile
www.bestaffordablecontractors.com 
 
The information contained in this message is proprietary and/or confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, please: (i) delete the message and all copies; (ii) do not disclose, distribute or use the message in any manner; and (iii) notify the sender immediately.

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 3:58 PM, Mike Gallagher azMikeG@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Vincent,
As I have said in an earlier post, I use DPDT, momentary, center off switches on my Kato HO turnouts. The Kato turnouts are of a "Twin Coli" type, and it works fine.
You can also use DCC, but it gets more complex, and you have to be sure you have the correct interface boards, as ones used for Tortoise will ruin the Kato coils.​

As for why use one or the other, it is strictly a matter of choice and the reasons for and against degrade into a never ending discussion that no one ever comes out feeling good about. So, evaluate what you want to do, and how you intend to do it, then press on. Both approaches work. The fun and complexity of one over the other is in the eye of the beholder..

Peace,
Mike G.


On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 11:38 AM, 'John M Wallis' wallisjm@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Vincent:

 

Yes, Kato switches (turnouts) can definitely be used with a DCC system. Throwing them manually is no issue.

 

The turnouts are solenoids that are operated by reversing polarity. Thus you would need a DPDP-Center off, spring operated toggle switch. It  must be spring operated so contact is made only as long ads you hold the toggle in the desired position. This must be brief as too long a current flow will burn out the solenoid.

 

The Kato proprietary switch is not required, but it is probably the safest for operating their turnouts.

 

You can also use DCC decoders to operate the turnout solenoids.

 

Regards,

 

 

John Wallis

 

From: WiringForDCC@... <WiringForDCC@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2018 9:00 AM
To: wiringfordcc@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] Kato Switches and DCC

 

 

Question; can Kato DC switches be used with a DCC system? I'm planning on throwing the switches manually. That leads me to my next question; can I throw the switches using a single pole or double pole switch (which one)? and/or does Kato require their own propriety switch to be used? 

 

Thanks guys I always get good advice on this group.

 

 


Sincerely,
Vincent Marino
Vincent Marino
Affordable Roofing Contractors

Project Manager
904-260-7663 office

904-683-2914 fax
904-449-6339  mobile
www..bestaffordablecontractors.com 

 

The information contained in this message is proprietary and/or confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, please: (i) delete the message and all copies; (ii) do not disclose, distribute or use the message in any manner; and (iii) notify the sender immediately.





Re: Hopefully starting new layout

David Heine
 

On my layout (27' X 32') is use #12 AWG for the main DCC bus. #14 AWG sub-buses are used to divide the layout into electrical sections. I feed each sub-bus with a disconnect switch, for easier troubleshooting. My sections are towns, yards, mainline sections, etc. I use #22 AWG drops to each piece of rail. If the drop doesn't reach the bus, I usually use a piece of #18 wire to bridge the gap. I don't solder under the layout. I either use terminal blocks, or the Scotch "suitcase" connectors. I use both the 905 and 567 Max mentioned. I have installed hundreds (thousand?) of these with hundreds more to go, so I bought one of the 3M crimps tools when I first started. Layout is Sn3/Sn2/S, so the loads are similar to HO. Rail size is mostly Code 70 and 55, which is why I use #22 drops.

Dave Heine
Easton, PA


On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 8:23 PM, Daniel C Thomson danielc.thomson@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

Tim,
No automatic soldering iron but there are Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs).  These are a crimp on connector that slips over the buss wire and accepts the feed wire along side and has a metal bridge that is squeezed down, displacing the insulations and jumping a connection between the wires.  At about one inch long and applied with a squeeze of pliers this is a solid, secure connection.  They can be purchased by gauge of the main wire and gauge of the feeder wire.  No wire stripping, no wire twisting, no hot irons.
Dan
Milwaukee-N-SouthEastern, Ltd club.



On April 28, 2018, at 11:05 AM, "Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:




 

I wish there was an automatic soldering gun. Underneath the table is a real challenge for us mature guys :)

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 10:12 AM 'Ron St.Laurent' r.stlaurent@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Tim,

I am also a firm believer in soldered connections to the bus.  Be sure to stagger your connecting drops to the bus.  In other words do not allow your connections the possibility of shorting together.  Also I would highly recommend this kind of wire stripper https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=wire+stripper
This type is available from many suppliers.  This stripper actually "pushes" the insulation apart to allow your jumper to be soldered.  This is illustrated at minute 1:40 on this video How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper
This will save you a ton of time.  Good luck.

Ron St.Laurent
Lansing Model Railroad Club




On Friday, April 27, 2018 10:30 AM, "Tim Holmes taholmes160@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 
HI guys -- im hopefully starting a layout this weekend with a test module -- the layout will be made of 1x2 foot sections (for ease of handling) -- my thoughts are 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power bus, and ideally 20 or 22 gauge risers to the track -- every section to have a riser on it to ensure good connections. 

I'll probably strip back sections of the bus, and solder the risers to it again to ensure good connectivity.

What else should I be doing -- I am planning to use NCE system, and I really want to get this right the FIRST time 

TIM
San Luis and Rio Grande
--
Tim 
San Luis and Rio Grande






New group just to sell DCC Stuff

Dennis Cherry
 

New Group on Groups.io for DCC only


I started a new Groups.io called DCCSwap.

This site is only for DCC/LCC related items. Read the conditions, very generous.

The groups will have minimal monitoring but the first 2 posts will need to be approved before being listed, then its up to you.

I will check in and if something does not comply, then action could be taken.

Read the conditions, it will spell out the rules.

https://groups.io/g/DCCSwap

Thanks

Dennis


Moving the Q&A Forum

wirefordcc
 

All,


As you may have heard from others, groups on Yahoo are having problems and are moving to Groups.io.  I will be moving the Wiring for DCC Q&A Forum as well.  I'm hoping to do this within the next month.


I am in the process of learning about groups on Groups.io and setting up the new Q&A forum.  It is my understanding that if you want to be a part of the Q&A forum, you won't have to do anything - your membership and Yahoo settings, like whether you receive individual emails or digests - will be transferred.  I also plan to notify you when the forum is moved and I will change the link in my website so that new people can find the forum.


Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC

Re: Moving the Q&A Forum

Brian Eiland
 

Probably a good idea. I know of several forums that have moved and things seem to be going well.

Yahoo just let themselves get outdated.

On Sat, May 5, 2018 at 5:04 PM, bigboy@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

All,


As you may have heard from others, groups on Yahoo are having problems and are moving to Groups.io.  I will be moving the Wiring for DCC Q&A Forum as well.  I'm hoping to do this within the next month.


I am in the process of learning about groups on Groups.io and setting up the new Q&A forum.  It is my understanding that if you want to be a part of the Q&A forum, you won't have to do anything - your membership and Yahoo settings, like whether you receive individual emails or digests - will be transferred.  I also plan to notify you when the forum is moved and I will change the link in my website so that new people can find the forum.


Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC


Re: Moving the Q&A Forum

whmvd
 

Hi Allan,

If it really works out that seamlessly, it is time to take my hat of to IT people for the first time in a very long while. So far, I've only heard good things from those who switched, but it looks like yours is the first group I'm on to take the plunge. Best of luck - hope there's not too much admin work involved in setting it all up.

Wouter

On 5 May 2018 at 22:45, railandsail railandsail@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Probably a good idea. I know of several forums that have moved and things seem to be going well.

Yahoo just let themselves get outdated.

On Sat, May 5, 2018 at 5:04 PM, bigboy@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

All,


As you may have heard from others, groups on Yahoo are having problems and are moving to Groups.io.  I will be moving the Wiring for DCC Q&A Forum as well.  I'm hoping to do this within the next month.


I am in the process of learning about groups on Groups.io and setting up the new Q&A forum.  It is my understanding that if you want to be a part of the Q&A forum, you won't have to do anything - your membership and Yahoo settings, like whether you receive individual emails or digests - will be transferred.  I also plan to notify you when the forum is moved and I will change the link in my website so that new people can find the forum.


Allan Gartner

Wiring For DCC