Re: Non DCC friendly Shinohara turnouts - how do you rework


Blair
 

Denny
My guess based on the OP is that the gluing resulted from ballasting. Are you suggesting there is no need to glue ballast, as well? I'm sincerely interested in your alternative solutions, if that's the case. The major reason my present, soon-to-be dismantled layout has no ballast is for this reason; we had a strong suspicion we had a move in our not-to-distant future and might have to gut the layout. If you have a ballasting technique that permits efficient removal and reuse, I'd like to hear it; about the only thing we ever came up with was masking tape on the bottom of the turnouts, sticky side up; that still leaves a lot of mobile ballast, which inevitably migrates to the point of maximum interference.

Blair Smith

On 18/12/2011 10:55 AM, Denny Anspach wrote:
I have not been following this familiar thread closely, so will limit comments.

Most basic information needed is laid out pretty specifically in several different fashions at Allen Gartner's website at http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_walthers_old.htm. IMHO, you can take the information on the site straight to the bank.

My own experience is that of successfully converting some 50 or so of these older turnouts over the past 11 years, all of which reliably serve in daily use, looking quite good to boot.

The fact that the turnouts are glued in place does create an additional level of complication, but it can be overcome, perhaps minus the niceties of making feeds, jumpers, etc. invisible. In the end, reliability and utility beats out cosmetics.

A big lesson: do not glue turnouts in place. There is no necessity, none whatsoever. Simple spiking is all that is required.

Denny



Denny S. Anspach, MD
Sacramento






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