Re: The correct solder type for Feeder Wire and Rail joints
Thank you for the speedy response, I will go out an buy some solid
core solder and liquid flux, it was taking too much time to heat the
rails to make the rosin core flow into the joint ( even with a
230/150 Watt Crsaftsman Soldering gun. Meleting was not an issue
though, I was using alligator clips as heat sinks to keep the ties
from melting, However the clips were also probably adding to the
length of time to heat, since they were absorbing some of the heat.
Regarding the Joiners, I am only solder rail joiners on the curves
(36 radius) and using one feeder wire on each radius and then about
every 6 to ten feet solder feeders on straight track sections. I
leave a small gap (1/32 inch) here and there on the straights to
adjust for humidity (Basement is damp in summer, although I run a
dehumidifier) and dry in the winter (to adjust for my wood L girder
WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...>
rail and solder the joiners. You only need to do one or theother.
as your room temperature changes. Modelers do like to solder thewith
4% silver and/or no lead takes more heat to solder than solderable
to take the additional heat a little easier. But for HO track, youWith
rosin core, you have to apply heat to melt the rosin. With liquidis
laready liquid. So with liquid flux, you run a slightly lesserrisk
of melting ties.