Re: Soldering to Rail Base-Web, was resistance soldering

Jim Zarnick

This approach to solder to the bottom of the rail, the rail base.  I position the rail,  including bending flex track,  secure with push pins,  mark rail and roadbed where to solder wire and drill holes.  Take away to solder and drill, then test fit.  Remove to apply thin layer of dynaflex 230 and then install.

Same process for switches, Including the frog, but also drill the tortoise throw rod hole and confirm sufficient play to make it all work.

Takes a little extra time but results look great.

Bottom line though:  have fun!

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------ Original Message ------

From: PennsyNut
Sent: December 20, 2020 at 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [w4dccqa] Soldering to Rail Base-Web, was resistance soldering

An alternative: Before laying the track. Solder the feeder to the bottom of the rail. What can be done is: place track upside down/on metal to pull heat away. Cut the little web between the ties so that you have a 1/26" space of bare metal on the bottom of the rail. Then, do what Don just said. Apply flux, hold a tinned wire to the rail, touch briefly with the iron/tip small enough to fit and watch it make a good joint. Then, you can bend the wire straight up. Done. When laying the track, just make sure you drill the hole through the roadbed and base. The beauty of this is that you can hardly see the feeder at all. And ballast will ensure it's invisible. (If you've soldered the wire across the rail base, it's easy to bend. It's not really possible to solder it along the rail, there isn't enough room. Now for my disclaimer. I have not done that. What I did was solder the feeder to a rail joiner and now all I can do is hope that the electrical connection lasts 20 years. <small grin> But again, that feeder on the joiner is also pretty close to invisible. It's unfortunate that in HO, a rail joiner does not look prototypical. And ballast don't hide it.

Morgan Bilbo, slightly over one year with very basic DCC

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