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A bit too obvious, slick and facile I'm afraid. There are a few gotchas. First: wheelbase is one thing, but it's all about *powered* axles, i.e. they all must have power pick-ups. And if you find you have engines with asymmetrical power pickups (some steam engines have pick-ups on one track only, and the (mechanically and electrically) coupled tender picks up from the other rail) then expect Big Trouble.
I honestly think you're way better off finding a way to get the section length required by the theory instead of mucking about with kludges. Wyes can sometimes be seen in surprisingly different ways for purposes of cutting the rails for an auto-reverser. You might put a picture of the plan, with the proposed gaps, in the photo area of this group.
Seems obvious when you put it that way, Wouter! I’m going to go with that because I think I’ve been overthinking it and missing the point (no pun intended). Thanks all for your helpful responses!
By having a wheelbase larger than 5 cm.
But how does the loco drive across this 5cm unpowered gap?
think the suggestion is to have a short section of insulated
and unpowered track, say 5cm. That way the two wheel of one
truck can't connect the powered sections.
On 1/20/2020 3:33 PM, Chuck wrote:
To avoid the metal wheel problem, simply glue a piece of styrene into
the gap and when dry sand or file to match the rail. The wheels will no
longer contact both rails at the same time.
On 2020-01-20 3:03 p.m., mgj21932 via Groups.Io wrote:
Pete. Your metal wheels explanation makes absolute sense. Thanks
On Jan 20, 2020, at 2:58 PM, Pete via Groups.Io
As it was explained to me...
If you are running metal wheels, every pair of wheels that crosses
the polarity gap will cause the Auto Reverser to switch the polarity
if there is a difference, so if your loco hits a second gap before the
whole train is through that section, the loco will switch the polarity
again and then the wheels of the cars behind that cross the first gap
will switch the polarity again before the whole train is through
Your AR will be flipping back and forth as each set of wheels hit the
I hope I interpreted this correctly as I am new to DCC wiring too, but
I'm following the advice that was given to me as it makes sense.