Re: Rail joiners & PECO


I appreciate all the advice. I'm not quite clear on that photo and how it works. I do have a home-made tool: 6" piece of rail, bent up about half the length of a joiner. And a wire nut on the top. Easier to hold than just a rail with joiner. The rail end to hold the joiner is nicely filed, smooth, etc. And it helps some. But the problem is that the joiner is just too tight. And even with tools to help reduce the cutting of fingers and splitting of finger nails, those joiners are not right. The trick is that the joiner must be tight enough to not slip off. What I find really silly is when I do get a joiner on, and have to take it off. The next time, is just as difficult to get on. Also, I like to be able to have my turnouts totally removable. Slide the joiner off the turnout completely on the adjoining rail. Lift the turnout right out. Put the repaired one or a new one right back in place. Slide those joiners back onto the turnout and done. No muss, no fuss, no mess, simple. I use the Insulfrogs with no wires at all. But with these PECO joiners, I can't do that. For one thing, the joiner is too long. The joiner is ideal for connecting two pieces of flex. And because it's so tight, probably will conduct electricity better than a loose joiner. You can still solder joints if you wish. There is another type of joiner that looks like tie plates, and is in two pieces, but those are expensive. Might be better, but this hobby is expensive enough. And what strikes me is that PECO produces a fine product, turnouts are superb. Why are their joiners so tight.
Morgan Bilbo, new to DCC

Join to automatically receive all group messages.