Re: DCC wiring


Vollrath, Don <dvollrath@...>
 

You don't really need a separate booster for just the engine service / turntable area just because it is 35 ft away. Power that section with a separate bus run from the existing booster or simply extend the existing DCC bus along the track leading to that area of the layout. But use twisted pair wiring, 14-18 ga, and put an R-C terminator at the far end. {0.1 MFD 50V, 150 ohms 2W)

Using the rubber/plastic insulated rail joiners for gapping rail is a good idea. Easier than cutting rail. Provides a positive 'plug' to prevent the gap from closing.

But learn how to solder small (20-22 ga) feeder drop wires to the rail. Use plenty of these to conduct rail current so that you almost never rely on a slip-joint type rail joiner between rail sections to conduct current.

DonV

-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...
[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of zekda99
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 1:17 AM
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] DCC wiring


Hi I am new to this, snd trying to figure out how to wire a new setup.
using prodigy Advance system.

A couple of things I'd like to know:

1: do I need a booster if next area is 35 ft away, this is the
turntable area basically only...yards are only 10' away. (from main)

2: I am using plastic inusulators instead of cutting track and
soldering (am using track wire connectors)

3: Do have a tad of experience with electroncis due due to 20 yrs
working with the Cdn air force....(you know the ones that use duct
tape and lockiwire to hold things together)

4: main thing is i want to put in a lighting system at my control
panel with a green light when all is okay but switching to a red lite
when there is a short. 0AND I HAVE REAL PROPLEMS FINGING DECODERS TO
FIT BACHMANN, PECO EETC ENGINGES.....NO SOUND INFOLVED...'


PLEASE TRY TO HELP ME AS IT COSTS A FORTUNE FOR EVERY SCREWUP I MKE..


mT





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