Re: Powering Hinged Point Rails

John Bishop

Hi Tom,

Sounds like that will work fine -- and obviously does. 

My situation is a little different since I make my own switches, so there is no plastic do deal with, but electrically, we are both doing the same thing.  I do like the desoldering braid across the hinge because it is so flexible. I assume the liquid flux you use is the rosin in alcohol type, which I also like, and any cleanup can be done with alcohol on a Q-tip.   But as rule I find that is the rail is cleaned bright, then the flux- cored solder is fine by itself, even using steel rail.

Again, I should qualify that I am in O scale, but using code .100 rail.

John B

On Saturday, March 2, 2019, 7:49:33 AM PST, Tom Jones <tomjones4884@...> wrote:

John,  Like the John who responded I have also modified over 500 turnouts of all brands including over 100 fast-track turnouts to make them truely "DCC Friendly" . I use 26 gauge solid wire. I don't do any pre-preparing (is that a word?) of new turnouts but I use liquid flux that needs no cleanup. If I am doing a turnout pre-install to the layout I solder a wire around the hinge from the frog to the hinge as John mentioned and then I flip the turnout over and solder a wire from the stock rail to the "frog rail" Ometimes depending on manufacturer you need to cut out a bit of plastic to accomplish this. You can do this also if the turnout is already inplace with a little more work. The hinge wire remains the same but you need to make a small 90 degree bend in your wire and snake it under the stock rail and on to your frog rail. Solder and then wrap your wire to the outside of your stock rail in a small 90 degree bend and solder. Not as eligant but you now have a completely DCC ready turnout. CAVEAT: This assumes you have an isolated frog and are not using anything like the Peco Electrofrog turnout. My 2

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