1. w4dccqa@groups.io

Re: Hopefully starting new layout

David Heine
 

On my layout (27' X 32') is use #12 AWG for the main DCC bus. #14 AWG sub-buses are used to divide the layout into electrical sections. I feed each sub-bus with a disconnect switch, for easier troubleshooting. My sections are towns, yards, mainline sections, etc. I use #22 AWG drops to each piece of rail. If the drop doesn't reach the bus, I usually use a piece of #18 wire to bridge the gap. I don't solder under the layout. I either use terminal blocks, or the Scotch "suitcase" connectors. I use both the 905 and 567 Max mentioned. I have installed hundreds (thousand?) of these with hundreds more to go, so I bought one of the 3M crimps tools when I first started. Layout is Sn3/Sn2/S, so the loads are similar to HO. Rail size is mostly Code 70 and 55, which is why I use #22 drops.

Dave Heine
Easton, PA


On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 8:23 PM, Daniel C Thomson danielc.thomson@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:

Tim,
No automatic soldering iron but there are Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs).  These are a crimp on connector that slips over the buss wire and accepts the feed wire along side and has a metal bridge that is squeezed down, displacing the insulations and jumping a connection between the wires.  At about one inch long and applied with a squeeze of pliers this is a solid, secure connection.  They can be purchased by gauge of the main wire and gauge of the feeder wire.  No wire stripping, no wire twisting, no hot irons.
Dan
Milwaukee-N-SouthEastern, Ltd club.



On April 28, 2018, at 11:05 AM, "Affordable Roofing Contractors vmarino2009@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 

I wish there was an automatic soldering gun. Underneath the table is a real challenge for us mature guys :)

On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, 10:12 AM 'Ron St.Laurent' r.stlaurent@... [WiringForDCC] <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:
 

Hi Tim,

I am also a firm believer in soldered connections to the bus.  Be sure to stagger your connecting drops to the bus.  In other words do not allow your connections the possibility of shorting together.  Also I would highly recommend this kind of wire stripper https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=wire+stripper
This type is available from many suppliers.  This stripper actually "pushes" the insulation apart to allow your jumper to be soldered.  This is illustrated at minute 1:40 on this video How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper
This will save you a ton of time.  Good luck.

Ron St.Laurent
Lansing Model Railroad Club

How To Use The Automatic Wire Stripper

In this how-to video, Gary shows us how to use the new automatic, self-adjusting wire stripper from Klein Tools....



On Friday, April 27, 2018 10:30 AM, "Tim Holmes taholmes160@... [WiringForDCC]" <WiringForDCC@...> wrote:


 
HI guys -- im hopefully starting a layout this weekend with a test module -- the layout will be made of 1x2 foot sections (for ease of handling) -- my thoughts are 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power bus, and ideally 20 or 22 gauge risers to the track -- every section to have a riser on it to ensure good connections. 

I'll probably strip back sections of the bus, and solder the risers to it again to ensure good connectivity.

What else should I be doing -- I am planning to use NCE system, and I really want to get this right the FIRST time 

TIM
San Luis and Rio Grande
--
Tim 
San Luis and Rio Grande
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