Moveable Closure Points to the Frog?
I am in the midst of creating my own better turnouts and wyes in N scale for DCC...spanning the history of railroading from 1862 (stubb switch) to our most modern times with high speed rail and concrete ties.
With that said...I have been studying while also owning and testing many a variety of Ready Made/Commercially Available Switches/Turnouts in N, HO and O Scales.
Instead of a Frog Juicer, one intriguing possibility is to have the long closure rails not be cut nor segmented but to actually have them determine their polarity by how they interact with the outside rail and frog.
In this way the closure rails (the part that switches) can bend to form a near continuous radius in Code 55 Track.
The frog is also not segmented, it derives it's polarity first hand by the closure rail connecting to it. The far end of the switch then could be insulated.
Where have I seen such a configuration?
Tru-Scale Switches and Wyes from the 1960's.
Mouse over for a more detailed view.
(Loose the metal plate under the frog.)
I have been using the HO Scale Wood as wider berms to my N Scale layout. That is > I place Tru-scale wood down first then put my Kato or other brand N Scale Track/Switches on top of it in a Southern Pacific fashion.(EsPee Trackage is raised above the surrounding topograph, as opposed to say Track of the Western Pacific which may have it's ties embedded down into the flat.
Tru-scale Track comes in ready made 28" radius which has become my standard....
Ah? I bought a Lot in order to gain the radius sections and some of these Turnouts and Wyes were included.
> I begin again, the experiment continues.
Without testing my Tru-scale switches for their appropriateness to DCC in HO Scale...I am in stead recreating an N Scale Switch with long un-cut closure bars to side action the frog.
I believe I may be able to augment this connection on a slide type switch, so the frog with it's own drilled in/Soldered in wire and further add a second set of wires for better conductivity. i also have modified a #6 Kato into something similar to a #9.
My goal is #12's as my standard switch.
Anybody ...already try this in any scale?
Sorry for the lengthy explanation between the bold prints...but I didn't think anybody would know what I was talking about without it.