I'm still in the process of setting up my first Synchronome master and fortunately have found a supplier of a pukka pendulum & bob to replace the incorrect ones that came with it. Now I'd welcome advi

Hi, I've just fitted my backstop glass roller but it persisted in remaining in front of the Y-bracket thus not held in place and at risk of falling off and disappearing under the furniture (for a seco

Dear All, I've just joined the forum and in the process of setting up my 1920s Synchronome master (Serial 1152) in mahogany case and have carefully dismounted the Y-shaped brass bracket that holds the

Dear Howard I have a very similar or worse pitting in an early clock in which the spark quench resistors were broken in both slave and master, presumably accelerating the deep pitting I was thinking o

Hi What is the correct fix for warn contacts, the contact on the gravity arm is pitted without a lot of meat remaining and on the armature warn down close to the thread. I have not tried the clock and

Hi, I've just joined the synchronome1 gp and am about to fix my lovely case to the solid wall above the floor so the clock face is about at eye level. I've read about ensuring it is absolutely 'plum'

I wonder if I could make a modest proposal for the focus of this group? I joined about 2 years ago, moving across from the old Yahoo group, and over the past couple of years have found it very interes

Hi I now have 1 Master and 2 Slaves running from a 12V supply. There is enough resistance to limit the current to within spec (~240mA). I am seeing arcing across the Master clock contacts. This can't

My Synchronome #2054 ran for 45 days before latch failed to reset. Setup is transmitter and pilot at 11.5 ohms running at nominal 3 volts and 280mA from 2 Energizer Max D batteries. Thought it might d

Ernie, In order to photograph the commutator switch, I will have to stop the clock and lift out the movement. The commutator is mounted on the back board, but the spindle which drives it is part of th

Hi Neil My research on my new, very old Solari clock indicates it is fed with a bipolar 24V impulse. Not compatible with Synchronome slave clock pulses. I am interested in your driver. How does it wor

Use diodes! Unless I've missed something earlier in the thread, quenching diodes will solve any sparking problems. In early days, rectifiers were either in vac. tubes or made up of stacked plates of S

Hi I have some relays that will do the job but I am thinking that a cheap Chinese opto-coupler might be a better solution. Even a single relay will generate a spark at the contact. So there would be b

Hi I have my master nome running nicely. I am now ready to connect a couple of Gents slave clocks to it. The Gents mechanisms are sealed in Bakelite enclosures, so the only way I know to advance them

Hello, I have at last got myself an Eureka clock (No not a Christmas present!) and am having trouble with the balance spring. The timed rate of the spring and balance is 1.45 sec approx. which ties in

Dear friends and colleagues Wishing you all the very best for 2021 may we all continue to remain safe and may we all find what we are looking for in 2021 Take care of your clocks and take care of your

A bit off topic, but please could anyone link me to a decent explanation of how these quartz clock movements with continuous sweep seconds work? I assume that they have some sort of stepper motor with

Hi again. I messaged the group some time ago, mentioning that I served my time in the Westbury factory, then worked as their toolmaker replacing Bill Lycett after his untimely death and finishing up i

If any member wishes to post images of about particular clock they own, and give us a little bit of its history or ask a question about anything they are unsure of regarding their clock then I hope th

If we are going to expand the group scope to Electrically powered pendulum clocks, then I have (at least) one of these.... This is a 1920s Standard Electric Time master clock with a mercury compensate