Synchronome to Resurrect


Grant Griffiths
 

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapped for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant


neil
 

Hi grant. If you get stuck, I have 2 running Nomes that I can measure up for you. I also have 2 IBM electric master clocks running thes e are GREAT timekeepers.
Neil Jepsen. B.Sc. M.Sc(Hons).CPL.MASNZ.
Jepsen Acoustics & Electronics Ltd
22 Domain Street
Palmerston North.
New Zealand.
Ph +64 6 3577539  Mob 0274428094
Web site: www.noiseandweather.co.nz
          www.noiseandweather.com  
E.& O.E.
On 10/08/2021 01:26 pm, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapped for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant



Grant Griffiths
 

Thanks Neil,

Can you tell me the gap between the suspension blocks please?

Cheers,

Grant

On 10/08/2021 12:22 pm, neil wrote:
Hi grant. If you get stuck, I have 2 running Nomes that I can measure up for you. I also have 2 IBM electric master clocks running thes e are GREAT timekeepers.
Neil Jepsen. B.Sc. M.Sc(Hons).CPL.MASNZ.
Jepsen Acoustics & Electronics Ltd
22 Domain Street
Palmerston North.
New Zealand.
Ph +64 6 3577539  Mob 0274428094
Web site: www.noiseandweather.co.nz
          www.noiseandweather.com  
E.& O.E.
On 10/08/2021 01:26 pm, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapped for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant



John Haine
 

Grant, in the files section there is acopy of articles by Elliott Isaacs on making a Nome that should have the dimensions.

https://groups.io/g/synchronome1/files/Elliott%20Isaacs%20%27Nome%20articles/An%20Electric%20Master%20Clock%20-%20Eliot%20Isaacs%20FBHI%20%281%29.pdf


neil
 

2.8mm, measured 3x on 2 clocks.
Neil Jepsen. B.Sc. M.Sc(Hons).CPL.MASNZ.
Jepsen Acoustics & Electronics Ltd
22 Domain Street
Palmerston North.
New Zealand.
Ph +64 6 3577539  Mob 0274428094
Web site: www.noiseandweather.co.nz
          www.noiseandweather.com  
E.& O.E.
On 10/08/2021 03:54 pm, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Thanks Neil,

Can you tell me the gap between the suspension blocks please?

Cheers,

Grant

On 10/08/2021 12:22 pm, neil wrote:
Hi grant. If you get stuck, I have 2 running Nomes that I can measure up for you. I also have 2 IBM electric master clocks running thes e are GREAT timekeepers.
Neil Jepsen. B.Sc. M.Sc(Hons).CPL.MASNZ.
Jepsen Acoustics & Electronics Ltd
22 Domain Street
Palmerston North.
New Zealand.
Ph +64 6 3577539  Mob 0274428094
Web site: www.noiseandweather.co.nz
          www.noiseandweather.com  
E.& O.E.
On 10/08/2021 01:26 pm, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapped for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant




Grant Griffiths
 

Brilliant!  Thanks, Neil.

Grant

On 11/08/2021 6:39 am, neil wrote:
2.8mm, measured 3x on 2 clocks.
Neil Jepsen. B.Sc. M.Sc(Hons).CPL.MASNZ.
Jepsen Acoustics & Electronics Ltd
22 Domain Street
Palmerston North.
New Zealand.
Ph +64 6 3577539  Mob 0274428094
Web site: www.noiseandweather.co.nz
          www.noiseandweather.com  
E.& O.E.
On 10/08/2021 03:54 pm, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Thanks Neil,

Can you tell me the gap between the suspension blocks please?

Cheers,

Grant

On 10/08/2021 12:22 pm, neil wrote:
Hi grant. If you get stuck, I have 2 running Nomes that I can measure up for you. I also have 2 IBM electric master clocks running thes e are GREAT timekeepers.
Neil Jepsen. B.Sc. M.Sc(Hons).CPL.MASNZ.
Jepsen Acoustics & Electronics Ltd
22 Domain Street
Palmerston North.
New Zealand.
Ph +64 6 3577539  Mob 0274428094
Web site: www.noiseandweather.co.nz
          www.noiseandweather.com  
E.& O.E.
On 10/08/2021 01:26 pm, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapped for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant




Grant Griffiths
 

Thank you John,

I was not aware of that excellent series of articles!  I can now make the few bits that are missing (e.g. gathering jewel assembly) - fortunately not too many.

An update: on cleaning all the corrosion off the contact arm plate I found the serial number (for at least that part of the clock) is 99 - so pretty early I would think.

Best regards,

Grant

On 11/08/2021 1:38 am, John Haine via groups.io wrote:
Grant, in the files section there is acopy of articles by Elliott Isaacs on making a Nome that should have the dimensions.

https://groups.io/g/synchronome1/files/Elliott%20Isaacs%20%27Nome%20articles/An%20Electric%20Master%20Clock%20-%20Eliot%20Isaacs%20FBHI%20%281%29.pdf


Grant Griffiths
 

Dear All,

The main movement has been cleaned, re-lacquered and rebuilt.  Pivots and bushes all now fit and movement set up and works.  Looks a lot better (see below) - pendulum next.  I noticed the number 29 stamped on the underside of the roller bracket as well as the 99 on the bottom plate.  There is also a capital G stamped on another part.  Not sure if the 29 is a part number, or a serial number from a different clock?  Opinions invited.

Best regards and thanks for assistance,

Grant

On 10/08/2021 11:26 am, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapped for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant


John Hubert
 

Firstly, I don’t believe you have either 29, or 99 as a ‘true’ serial number for that movement.  The reason is that 29 and 99 are VERY low numbers dating to circa pre 1910), and the features on your clock are typical of a much later clock.  As a few examples;
  1. The buffer to the left of the gravity arm was introduced in the 1920s around s/n 1250 (but admittedly a few have been added to earlier clocks)
  2. The backstop roller is a type introduced around 1933 (s/n 1800 ish) (pre that a roller on a formed wire was used)
  3. The gravity arm has a smooth inside radius - a feature normally found on Coventry (C prefix) clocks.
  4. The shape of the bridge holding the count wheel and latch is 1930s or later.  Earlier versions omitted the support for the backstop arbour.
  5. Master clock coils were very seldom enamelled wire - though could have been rewound.

The 99 on the armature bridge is interesting.  Serial numbers were sometimes put here on factory clocks when there was no NRA plate fitted.  However - as above - 99 as a number doesn’t ‘fit’, so a mystery there!

Finally - it looks like (hard to tell in the light of the photo) you have a crackle finish paint.  This is post 1933 for both Coventry and main series clocks. IF your clock was C99, (i.e. a Coventry clock, it would at that number almost certainly be in smooth matt paint).  Your clock also appears to have no NRA mechanism, or holes drilled for it.  This suggests that it was a factory casting sold as a ‘part’, which were readily available to home assemblers.

Nevertheless, it is a nice thing - and looks in good order now.  Work well done.

John

On 13 Aug 2021, at 13:34, Grant Griffiths <grantgriffiths@...> wrote:

Dear All,

The main movement has been cleaned, re-lacquered and rebuilt.  Pivots and bushes all now fit and movement set up and works.  Looks a lot better (see below) - pendulum next.  I noticed the number 29 stamped on the underside of the roller bracket as well as the 99 on the bottom plate.  There is also a capital G stamped on another part.  Not sure if the 29 is a part number, or a serial number from a different clock?  Opinions invited.

Best regards and thanks for assistance,

Grant

<gdepohkahgmoohpi.jpg>

On 10/08/2021 11:26 am, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapp

The design of the bridge 

ed for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant



Grant Griffiths
 

Thanks John,

I'm pleased with how it is coming.  It's certainly made up of mismatched bits - particularly the armature plate required rebushing and moving it down ~1mm to get the armature to be vertical - it's possible that part is old.  Yes it is crackle finish.  The count wheel, latch and backstop all had much larger pivots than the back bushing screws or the bridge plate holes.  Interestingly there is a wire backstop arm with a glass roller in the bag of left-over bits - I didn't use it because it is badly mangled. NRA parts are also in the bag.  I would say the enamelled windings are original (certainly the mould between the turns is).  I have removed the wrecked coil wrapping you can see in the 'before' picture in the original email.  Happy with c1930s kit seasoned with older parts.

Cheers,

Grant

On 13/08/2021 11:14 pm, John Hubert wrote:
Firstly, I don’t believe you have either 29, or 99 as a ‘true’ serial number for that movement.  The reason is that 29 and 99 are VERY low numbers dating to circa pre 1910), and the features on your clock are typical of a much later clock.  As a few examples;
  1. The buffer to the left of the gravity arm was introduced in the 1920s around s/n 1250 (but admittedly a few have been added to earlier clocks)
  2. The backstop roller is a type introduced around 1933 (s/n 1800 ish) (pre that a roller on a formed wire was used)
  3. The gravity arm has a smooth inside radius - a feature normally found on Coventry (C prefix) clocks.
  4. The shape of the bridge holding the count wheel and latch is 1930s or later.  Earlier versions omitted the support for the backstop arbour.
  5. Master clock coils were very seldom enamelled wire - though could have been rewound.

The 99 on the armature bridge is interesting.  Serial numbers were sometimes put here on factory clocks when there was no NRA plate fitted.  However - as above - 99 as a number doesn’t ‘fit’, so a mystery there!

Finally - it looks like (hard to tell in the light of the photo) you have a crackle finish paint.  This is post 1933 for both Coventry and main series clocks. IF your clock was C99, (i.e. a Coventry clock, it would at that number almost certainly be in smooth matt paint).  Your clock also appears to have no NRA mechanism, or holes drilled for it.  This suggests that it was a factory casting sold as a ‘part’, which were readily available to home assemblers.

Nevertheless, it is a nice thing - and looks in good order now.  Work well done.

John

On 13 Aug 2021, at 13:34, Grant Griffiths <grantgriffiths@...> wrote:

Dear All,

The main movement has been cleaned, re-lacquered and rebuilt.  Pivots and bushes all now fit and movement set up and works.  Looks a lot better (see below) - pendulum next.  I noticed the number 29 stamped on the underside of the roller bracket as well as the 99 on the bottom plate.  There is also a capital G stamped on another part.  Not sure if the 29 is a part number, or a serial number from a different clock?  Opinions invited.

Best regards and thanks for assistance,

Grant

<gdepohkahgmoohpi.jpg>

On 10/08/2021 11:26 am, Grant Griffiths wrote:

Dear All,

I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead.  Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel, detent and latch are 1.5mm and the bushes are ~1.2mm.  the reverse is true on the contact arm pivots. The rest of it is pretty straightforward, clean, de-rust, rewire, new pads and set-up.

The parts include an NRA plate and lever but the plate is not tapped for it - I can donate those to a friend who does have a plate tapp

The design of the bridge 

ed for them.   There are also other left-over parts (left hand side of the photo).  My intention would be to re-bush the plates to fit the parts I have - not ideal, but better to resurrect it than continue as bags of bits.  Not a huge pool of parts here in Oz.  There is no serial number on the contact arm plate.

My questions are: can anyone provide background on the two pivot sizes - date, etc., and also dimensions of the suspension spring - I have a 0.1mm piece of the correct width, but I don't know the correct gap between the blocks?  I will be modifying a chrome-plated IBM master clock pendulum, that came with it, that should work.  It has a Invar rod, but the colour scheme is hardly an exact match.  When completed the clock will go in a grandmother case I inherited that had the Hipp toggle movement replaced with quartz about 30 years ago.  The dimensions are suitable.

I have the gap set-up sheet and wiring diagram.

Best regards,

Grant



John Hubert
 

Hi Grant,

I had failed to note earlier that I think you may be in Australia?  There is an active AHS (Antiquarian Horological Society) Electrical Chapter in Australia and they may well be able to give you more information as the Synchronome Company had a strong connection through the Jackson family in Brisbane and some clocks were locally made (partly I think with parts sourced from Synchronome UK).  

John

On 13 Aug 2021, at 14:34, Grant Griffiths <grantgriffiths@...> wrote:

Thanks John,

I'm pleased with how it is coming.  It's certainly made up of mismatched bits - particularly the armature plate required rebushing and moving it down ~1mm to get the armature to be vertical - it's possible that part is old.  Yes it is crackle finish.  The count wheel, latch and backstop all had much larger pivots than the back bushing screws or the bridge plate holes.  Interestingly there is a wire backstop arm with a glass roller in the bag of left-over bits - I didn't use it because it is badly mangled. NRA parts are also in the bag.  I would say the enamelled windings are original (certainly the mould between the turns is).  I have removed the wrecked coil wrapping you can see in the 'before' picture in the original email.  Happy with c1930s kit seasoned with older parts.

Cheers,

Grant



Grant Griffiths
 

Hi John,

Thank you, yes I am good friends with Graham Mitchell and this DIY clock came from Rod Elliott.

Cheers,

Grant

On 14/08/2021 7:30 pm, John Hubert wrote:
Hi Grant,

I had failed to note earlier that I think you may be in Australia?  There is an active AHS (Antiquarian Horological Society) Electrical Chapter in Australia and they may well be able to give you more information as the Synchronome Company had a strong connection through the Jackson family in Brisbane and some clocks were locally made (partly I think with parts sourced from Synchronome UK).  

John

On 13 Aug 2021, at 14:34, Grant Griffiths <grantgriffiths@...> wrote:

Thanks John,

I'm pleased with how it is coming.  It's certainly made up of mismatched bits - particularly the armature plate required rebushing and moving it down ~1mm to get the armature to be vertical - it's possible that part is old.  Yes it is crackle finish.  The count wheel, latch and backstop all had much larger pivots than the back bushing screws or the bridge plate holes.  Interestingly there is a wire backstop arm with a glass roller in the bag of left-over bits - I didn't use it because it is badly mangled. NRA parts are also in the bag.  I would say the enamelled windings are original (certainly the mould between the turns is).  I have removed the wrecked coil wrapping you can see in the 'before' picture in the original email.  Happy with c1930s kit seasoned with older parts.

Cheers,

Grant