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New electronic Hipp Toggle clock project


wwwrogerj.codotuk@...
 

If only to keep me focused and not distracted by other things, I'm posting a picture of the case of this new project. Starting with the case which started life as a bare dark oak PO36 carcass and now has a door and a replacement architectural top. It was stripped and currently the new parts are being stained light oak..the new oak was from skip rescued kitchen unit doors.More details soon !


Chris
 

Well done, Roger.

Dare I suggest you use [new] horticultural/greenhouse glass [or similar, slightly wavy stuff] for the doors?
It makes all the difference to the apparent age and character of a clock instead of using modern float glass or whatever.
I had to replace the bottom pane on an earlier PO36 and it still stands out as a modern replacement decades later.


wwwrogerj.codotuk@...
 

On Thu, Feb 14, 2019 at 09:13 AM, Chris wrote:
Well done, Roger.

Dare I suggest you use [new] horticultural/greenhouse glass [or similar, slightly wavy stuff] for the doors?
Sounds like a good idea Chris..I'll look into that idea..R


John Haine
 

Hello Roger, I have a Synchronome that is being made electronic, I'll be interested to see how you approach the Hipp.  My clock has a dark oak case, which has aged rather unattractively as well as being rather spattered with white emulsion - how did you go about stripping your case please?

John.


wwwrogerj.codotuk@...
 
Edited

Hi John..I used Nitromors and a heavy duty scraper (like screwfix 45940) Trouble is the old very dark varnish I dealt with could not be totally removed..Some dark flecks had penetrated the wood. However a lighter stain/varnish might overcome that..I.m using Colron wood dye and clear satin acrylic varnish but it's proving difficult to match the old with the new wood..You wouldn't have that problem of course

I'm intrigued by what aspect of the 'Nome you are changing to electronic....doing away with the count wheel ? and releasing the gravity arm electrically ? Do tell.
The Hipp Toggle is altogether a different project...I have had one working for over two years with very basic electronics (fully described here: http://www.rogerj.co.uk/clock.htm The new one will be a collboration with a Canadian chap who has been inspired by mine to make one as well,,,but with changes that may be improvements..ultimately cmos electronics may be changed to an Arduino. I will be able to try his ideas when the case is finished..

Roger

 

 


John Haine
 

Thanks Roger, I'll give paint stripper a try.

I really like the Synchronome principle of having intermittent impulsing and isolating the time display from the oscillator.  HJ did the best he could with the technology at the time, but we have moved on and there are plenty of "original" 'Nomes (what a good term...) out there and even some recent reproductions.  I wanted to test some ideas of my own, and also wanted something much quieter.  There are 4 features I'm trying.  One, the gravity arm will be controlled by a cam driven by a small stepper motor so it can be moved slowly and precisely and gently place the impulse roller on the pallet and lift it off again.  Second the pendulum will be sensed by an opto (just as you have).  Third the pallet shape will be optimised according to HJ's description in Electrical Timekeeping, as I have a small CNC mill so making the shape is relatively easy.  Finally everything will be controlled by an Arduino, which will allow amongst other things the number of swings per impulse to be changed.  The pallet shape will have dead rolls before and after the active slope, so the roller will be placed on the pallet just before the active slope passes under it, but the actual impulse timing will be insensitive to exactly when.  And the roller will be lifted off just after the impulse, when again it will be on a dead roll.

So far I've made a new pendulum using a carbon fibre rod; and currently working on the pallet design.  I'm hoping that the temperature sensitivity will be reasonably low, but reserving the possibility of temperature controlling the case like you have!  What thermostat did you use?


John Haine
 

Roger, I had a look at your site, it is very interesting.  Another couple of questions if I may please!

What are the infra-red object detectors that you refer to, are they the type made by Sharp?

And could you point me to the website with details of the Pi time monitoring software?

Many thanks, John.


wwwrogerj.codotuk@...
 

John..This is a quick reply to you last...I'll react to the previous a little later..

The reflective infra red that I'm about to try (so can't recommend yet) can be found on eBay by searching :"TCRT5000 Infrared Reflective IR Photoelectric Switch Barrier Track" Mine only came yesterday and they are dead cheap <£3 for 10. I'm planning to use "8mm retro reflective tape" as the target. That version of the TCRT5000 comes complete with little pcb with an onboard comparator but the bare TCRT5000's can also be got.
The ones I used in the cHipp Toggle clock were like these: Infrared Slotted Speed Sensor Module Optical PI Arduino Flux Workshop
All from China of course..There are plenty of variations if you use creative search terms.

The raspberry Pi monitoring software is not a commercial product..It came form a member of another clock forum as a favour..he may also be here :-) If he doesn'y pop up I'll enquire..

Roger


John Haine
 

Many thanks Roger.


wwwrogerj.codotuk@...
 

Hi John..Sorry for the delay in replying..I had overlooked the thermostat question..Another ebay item...search...

"12V Digital Module Red Temperature LED Controller Thermostat Controller TE3 W1D9"..another very cheap item that does the job well. You'll see plenty of alternative prices and sellers when located that one..

Hope to hear more as you pruject develops...R


John Haine
 
Edited


Here are the parts for the pallet.  The "blade" CNC milled to coordinates generated in a spreadsheet according to FH-J's description.  Blade and collet yet to be soldered together and cleaned up.  Blade was bolted to a scrap of composite on the mill table by M4 screws through the smaller holes.  Sorry, phone camera, a bit out of focus...


wwwrogerj.codotuk@...
 

Hi John..It's probably me...but they don't look like the pallets in a Mk2 'Nome...Or a Mk1 'Nome..The "ramp" face of a Mk1 is rounded slightly across the width although the Mk2 doesn't seem to be. Thickness of blade is 5.9mm..Is yours a bit thinner ?
I have a horrible feeling I'm not seeing something I should, but here goes anyway...Nice work BTW..


John Haine
 

No, I'm afraid it's not supposed to!  I'm going to start a new build thread about what I'm doing, will explain there.