DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?


Chris Wollaston
 

Hi, I've two very nice Synchronome slaves in oak surrounds and whilst my Synchronome master is refusing to run for more than 30 minutes before stopping I'd like to experiment with an electronic substitute for the master issuing the correct pulse every 30 seconds.  I'm told I need a 'Slave Impulser' device so could someone send me a link to where I can buy one please?
Also, it'd be very useful to meet a Synchronome master clock enthusiast reasonably local to me here in E Sussex, Nr. Hailsham, who'd be willing to visit and show me how to get my 1925 Synchronome master running correctly as I've sort of run out of patience with it after many hours of perseverance! Cheers, Chris.


Bob
 

Hi Chris,
I sympathise with your plight concerning your Synchronome. They can be fickle beasts but generally the issues they have are simple to fix. The difficult bit is finding the issue! I live nowhere near you or I would willingly assist, but as regards an electronic impulse driver have a look here:

https://electroclock.co.uk/Drivers/index.html

I have been using one of these for several years to drive a Gents slave and it works perfectly. Hope this helps.


Darren Conway
 

Hi

Another solution would be to connect a U-Blox NEO GPS module to a slave.  These can be configured and interfaced to provide a super accurate 30s time pulse.


Regards

Darren Conway
New Zealand


On 1.06.21 7:13 pm, Bob wrote:
Hi Chris,
I sympathise with your plight concerning your Synchronome. They can be fickle beasts but generally the issues they have are simple to fix. The difficult bit is finding the issue! I live nowhere near you or I would willingly assist, but as regards an electronic impulse driver have a look here:

https://electroclock.co.uk/Drivers/index.html

I have been using one of these for several years to drive a Gents slave and it works perfectly. Hope this helps.



Avast logo

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com



Brian Cracknell
 

Hi Chris,

As part of the new "working from home" generation, I can suggest that one trick to get more help on the master clock is to video it on your mobile telephone and stick the footage on Youtube. (close ups of the roller falling on the pallet, etc). We can all then provide input from our desks. With my 1923 example, I fiddled for 10 years on and off before stumbling on a fairly good set-up with the buffer settings, etc. One thing I have discovered is that the published gaps and clearances are a good starting point but fine tuning makes all the difference. I for one would be interested in seeing your clock running and I am sure you would get plenty of helpful observations from the forum.

Regards
Brian


From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> on behalf of Chris Wollaston <chris@...>
Sent: 31 May 2021 23:05
To: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io>
Subject: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?
 
Hi, I've two very nice Synchronome slaves in oak surrounds and whilst my Synchronome master is refusing to run for more than 30 minutes before stopping I'd like to experiment with an electronic substitute for the master issuing the correct pulse every 30 seconds.  I'm told I need a 'Slave Impulser' device so could someone send me a link to where I can buy one please?
Also, it'd be very useful to meet a Synchronome master clock enthusiast reasonably local to me here in E Sussex, Nr. Hailsham, who'd be willing to visit and show me how to get my 1925 Synchronome master running correctly as I've sort of run out of patience with it after many hours of perseverance! Cheers, Chris.


Andrew Nahum
 

I find that the more I fiddle with mine the worse I make it!  I have found over the years it pays to go back to the published clearances on everything. Another thing to check is the left/right rest position of the pendulum because it effects the energy transfer from the roller to the impulse face or ramp. I find L. Payton’s 1982 drawing very useful. Look at the line on this photo  extract starting ‘Vertical line at side of pivot must pass … ‘

Andrew 




On 1 Jun 2021, at 12:28, Brian Cracknell <brcracknell@...> wrote:


Hi Chris,

As part of the new "working from home" generation, I can suggest that one trick to get more help on the master clock is to video it on your mobile telephone and stick the footage on Youtube. (close ups of the roller falling on the pallet, etc). We can all then provide input from our desks. With my 1923 example, I fiddled for 10 years on and off before stumbling on a fairly good set-up with the buffer settings, etc. One thing I have discovered is that the published gaps and clearances are a good starting point but fine tuning makes all the difference. I for one would be interested in seeing your clock running and I am sure you would get plenty of helpful observations from the forum.

Regards
Brian


From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> on behalf of Chris Wollaston <chris@...>
Sent: 31 May 2021 23:05
To: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io>
Subject: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?
 
Hi, I've two very nice Synchronome slaves in oak surrounds and whilst my Synchronome master is refusing to run for more than 30 minutes before stopping I'd like to experiment with an electronic substitute for the master issuing the correct pulse every 30 seconds.  I'm told I need a 'Slave Impulser' device so could someone send me a link to where I can buy one please?
Also, it'd be very useful to meet a Synchronome master clock enthusiast reasonably local to me here in E Sussex, Nr. Hailsham, who'd be willing to visit and show me how to get my 1925 Synchronome master running correctly as I've sort of run out of patience with it after many hours of perseverance! Cheers, Chris.


John Hubert
 

If I had to name two things ……..

First - it is very important that the gathering jewel is set high enough such that it only JUST gathers the tooth - and therefore only JUST ‘brushes' it on the return to collect the next tooth.  Most clocks I have seen where the owners have been having trouble - the gathering jewel drops too low - and this increases friction and losses.

Second - the gathering jewel, the faces of the teeth on the count wheel, the slope on the pallet and the surface of the roller all need to be scrupulously clean and dry (no oil here).

On 1 Jun 2021, at 13:29, Andrew Nahum <andrew.nahum@...> wrote:

I find that the more I fiddle with mine the worse I make it!  I have found over the years it pays to go back to the published clearances on everything. Another thing to check is the left/right rest position of the pendulum because it effects the energy transfer from the roller to the impulse face or ramp. I find L. Payton’s 1982 drawing very useful. Look at the line on this photo  extract starting ‘Vertical line at side of pivot must pass … ‘

Andrew 
<image0.jpeg>



On 1 Jun 2021, at 12:28, Brian Cracknell <brcracknell@...> wrote:


Hi Chris,

As part of the new "working from home" generation, I can suggest that one trick to get more help on the master clock is to video it on your mobile telephone and stick the footage on Youtube. (close ups of the roller falling on the pallet, etc). We can all then provide input from our desks. With my 1923 example, I fiddled for 10 years on and off before stumbling on a fairly good set-up with the buffer settings, etc. One thing I have discovered is that the published gaps and clearances are a good starting point but fine tuning makes all the difference. I for one would be interested in seeing your clock running and I am sure you would get plenty of helpful observations from the forum.

Regards
Brian


From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> on behalf of Chris Wollaston <chris@...>
Sent: 31 May 2021 23:05
To: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io>
Subject: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?
 
Hi, I've two very nice Synchronome slaves in oak surrounds and whilst my Synchronome master is refusing to run for more than 30 minutes before stopping I'd like to experiment with an electronic substitute for the master issuing the correct pulse every 30 seconds.  I'm told I need a 'Slave Impulser' device so could someone send me a link to where I can buy one please?
Also, it'd be very useful to meet a Synchronome master clock enthusiast reasonably local to me here in E Sussex, Nr. Hailsham, who'd be willing to visit and show me how to get my 1925 Synchronome master running correctly as I've sort of run out of patience with it after many hours of perseverance! Cheers, Chris.


Odell, Edward
 

There is a video of good set up showing this at

https://wp.clockdoc.org/

under Synchronome > half second masters

 

Eddy Odell

 

From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> On Behalf Of John Hubert via groups.io
Sent: 01 June 2021 13:39
To: synchronome1@groups.io
Subject: Re: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?

 

If I had to name two things ……..

 

First - it is very important that the gathering jewel is set high enough such that it only JUST gathers the tooth - and therefore only JUST ‘brushes' it on the return to collect the next tooth.  Most clocks I have seen where the owners have been having trouble - the gathering jewel drops too low - and this increases friction and losses.

 

Second - the gathering jewel, the faces of the teeth on the count wheel, the slope on the pallet and the surface of the roller all need to be scrupulously clean and dry (no oil here).



On 1 Jun 2021, at 13:29, Andrew Nahum <andrew.nahum@...> wrote:

 

I find that the more I fiddle with mine the worse I make it!  I have found over the years it pays to go back to the published clearances on everything. Another thing to check is the left/right rest position of the pendulum because it effects the energy transfer from the roller to the impulse face or ramp. I find L. Payton’s 1982 drawing very useful. Look at the line on this photo  extract starting ‘Vertical line at side of pivot must pass … ‘

 

Andrew 

<image0.jpeg>

 

 



On 1 Jun 2021, at 12:28, Brian Cracknell <brcracknell@...> wrote:



Hi Chris,

 

As part of the new "working from home" generation, I can suggest that one trick to get more help on the master clock is to video it on your mobile telephone and stick the footage on Youtube. (close ups of the roller falling on the pallet, etc). We can all then provide input from our desks. With my 1923 example, I fiddled for 10 years on and off before stumbling on a fairly good set-up with the buffer settings, etc. One thing I have discovered is that the published gaps and clearances are a good starting point but fine tuning makes all the difference. I for one would be interested in seeing your clock running and I am sure you would get plenty of helpful observations from the forum.

 

Regards

Brian

 


From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> on behalf of Chris Wollaston <chris@...>
Sent: 31 May 2021 23:05
To: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io>
Subject: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?

 

Hi, I've two very nice Synchronome slaves in oak surrounds and whilst my Synchronome master is refusing to run for more than 30 minutes before stopping I'd like to experiment with an electronic substitute for the master issuing the correct pulse every 30 seconds.  I'm told I need a 'Slave Impulser' device so could someone send me a link to where I can buy one please?
Also, it'd be very useful to meet a Synchronome master clock enthusiast reasonably local to me here in E Sussex, Nr. Hailsham, who'd be willing to visit and show me how to get my 1925 Synchronome master running correctly as I've sort of run out of patience with it after many hours of perseverance! Cheers, Chris.

 


Ian Richardson
 

100% agree.  Also, rather than reinvent the wheel - follow the established set-up instructions:  THEY WORK.

Synchronome systems would not have been so successful if they were as fiddly as some folk think.  I have run dozens of them (still have 6) without problems for many years.

Ian R
Should be in France, but stuck in the UK!!



-----Original Message-----
From: John Hubert <jfphubert@...>
To: synchronome1@groups.io
Sent: Tue, 1 Jun 2021 14:38
Subject: Re: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?

If I had to name two things ……..

First - it is very important that the gathering jewel is set high enough such that it only JUST gathers the tooth - and therefore only JUST ‘brushes' it on the return to collect the next tooth.  Most clocks I have seen where the owners have been having trouble - the gathering jewel drops too low - and this increases friction and losses.

Second - the gathering jewel, the faces of the teeth on the count wheel, the slope on the pallet and the surface of the roller all need to be scrupulously clean and dry (no oil here).

On 1 Jun 2021, at 13:29, Andrew Nahum <andrew.nahum@...> wrote:

I find that the more I fiddle with mine the worse I make it!  I have found over the years it pays to go back to the published clearances on everything. Another thing to check is the left/right rest position of the pendulum because it effects the energy transfer from the roller to the impulse face or ramp. I find L. Payton’s 1982 drawing very useful. Look at the line on this photo  extract starting ‘Vertical line at side of pivot must pass … ‘

Andrew 
<image0.jpeg>



On 1 Jun 2021, at 12:28, Brian Cracknell <brcracknell@...> wrote:


Hi Chris,

As part of the new "working from home" generation, I can suggest that one trick to get more help on the master clock is to video it on your mobile telephone and stick the footage on Youtube. (close ups of the roller falling on the pallet, etc). We can all then provide input from our desks. With my 1923 example, I fiddled for 10 years on and off before stumbling on a fairly good set-up with the buffer settings, etc. One thing I have discovered is that the published gaps and clearances are a good starting point but fine tuning makes all the difference. I for one would be interested in seeing your clock running and I am sure you would get plenty of helpful observations from the forum.

Regards
Brian


From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> on behalf of Chris Wollaston <chris@...>
Sent: 31 May 2021 23:05
To: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io>
Subject: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?
 
Hi, I've two very nice Synchronome slaves in oak surrounds and whilst my Synchronome master is refusing to run for more than 30 minutes before stopping I'd like to experiment with an electronic substitute for the master issuing the correct pulse every 30 seconds.  I'm told I need a 'Slave Impulser' device so could someone send me a link to where I can buy one please?
Also, it'd be very useful to meet a Synchronome master clock enthusiast reasonably local to me here in E Sussex, Nr. Hailsham, who'd be willing to visit and show me how to get my 1925 Synchronome master running correctly as I've sort of run out of patience with it after many hours of perseverance! Cheers, Chris.


Brian Cracknell
 

There was a letter in The Daily Telegraph a few years ago from a man who bought an oscilloscope via mail order sometime in the 1960s. When it arrived he got it out of the box and set it up but no matter how much he fiddled, he couldn't get it to work. Finally, reluctantly and with a great sigh he opened the instruction manual and the first line of text read "You've tried it your way, now try it our way". After that it worked.....

But for old things that may have been bodged by other people sometime in the distant past in ways which may not be immediately obvious, there may be scenarios where the original instructions do need to be tweaked a little bit. Different types of felt pads for instance may have different degrees of compressibility which can affect the gap settings.


From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> on behalf of Ian Richardson via groups.io <irichar361@...>
Sent: 01 June 2021 14:35
To: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?
 
100% agree.  Also, rather than reinvent the wheel - follow the established set-up instructions:  THEY WORK.

Synchronome systems would not have been so successful if they were as fiddly as some folk think.  I have run dozens of them (still have 6) without problems for many years.

Ian R
Should be in France, but stuck in the UK!!



-----Original Message-----
From: John Hubert <jfphubert@...>
To: synchronome1@groups.io
Sent: Tue, 1 Jun 2021 14:38
Subject: Re: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?

If I had to name two things ……..

First - it is very important that the gathering jewel is set high enough such that it only JUST gathers the tooth - and therefore only JUST ‘brushes' it on the return to collect the next tooth.  Most clocks I have seen where the owners have been having trouble - the gathering jewel drops too low - and this increases friction and losses.

Second - the gathering jewel, the faces of the teeth on the count wheel, the slope on the pallet and the surface of the roller all need to be scrupulously clean and dry (no oil here).

On 1 Jun 2021, at 13:29, Andrew Nahum <andrew.nahum@...> wrote:

I find that the more I fiddle with mine the worse I make it!  I have found over the years it pays to go back to the published clearances on everything. Another thing to check is the left/right rest position of the pendulum because it effects the energy transfer from the roller to the impulse face or ramp. I find L. Payton’s 1982 drawing very useful. Look at the line on this photo  extract starting ‘Vertical line at side of pivot must pass … ‘

Andrew 
<image0.jpeg>



On 1 Jun 2021, at 12:28, Brian Cracknell <brcracknell@...> wrote:


Hi Chris,

As part of the new "working from home" generation, I can suggest that one trick to get more help on the master clock is to video it on your mobile telephone and stick the footage on Youtube. (close ups of the roller falling on the pallet, etc). We can all then provide input from our desks. With my 1923 example, I fiddled for 10 years on and off before stumbling on a fairly good set-up with the buffer settings, etc. One thing I have discovered is that the published gaps and clearances are a good starting point but fine tuning makes all the difference. I for one would be interested in seeing your clock running and I am sure you would get plenty of helpful observations from the forum.

Regards
Brian


From: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io> on behalf of Chris Wollaston <chris@...>
Sent: 31 May 2021 23:05
To: synchronome1@groups.io <synchronome1@groups.io>
Subject: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?
 
Hi, I've two very nice Synchronome slaves in oak surrounds and whilst my Synchronome master is refusing to run for more than 30 minutes before stopping I'd like to experiment with an electronic substitute for the master issuing the correct pulse every 30 seconds.  I'm told I need a 'Slave Impulser' device so could someone send me a link to where I can buy one please?
Also, it'd be very useful to meet a Synchronome master clock enthusiast reasonably local to me here in E Sussex, Nr. Hailsham, who'd be willing to visit and show me how to get my 1925 Synchronome master running correctly as I've sort of run out of patience with it after many hours of perseverance! Cheers, Chris.


Chris Wollaston
 

Hi Ian and all, With your wonderful experience gathered over many years of dozens of Synchronome Masters & 6 working at home, would you like to pop round to my home in E Sussex and breath life into my 1925 master!! I can provide lunch and a modest contribution to travel expenses so long as it's not Scotland hoho!
I'm new to Synchronome ownership and please believe me, it's extremely frustrating having followed Miles to the letter with kind help from Jim who worked on it for 5 hours BUT still it won't run.
I'm not joking, these clocks are old pieces of machinery and need experienced maintainers. I'm definitely NOT experienced BUT dearly want it set up and operational and need on-site HELP please.  I'm so exasperated with it that I am willing to pay someone to travel to me to set it up and instruct me on how to keep it operational. Otherwise it's just a nice architectural mahogany case with a clock inside as an expensive ornament on the wall in my hall!!
IMHO that's not funny and not cost effective. Bests, Chris in E Sussex.  My telephone is 07970 530655. Pse call or send me an email with your no. and I'll call.


Ian Richardson
 

Chris et al,

A visit would be nice, but out of the question for many reasons.  Maybe one day.

All the setting up details are freely available (I helped write the setting up and maintenance section of Bob Miles' book) but the secrets of success may not all be obvious from that.  What follows is all on the assumption that the air gaps etc are set as per "normal" instructions.

If you remove the gathering click and let your pendulum swing on its own, how long will it swing?  The support at the top must be rigid (if there is any tendency to move, that will rob energy from the pendulum).

Hold back the gravity arm latch and backstop click and spin the countwheel with your finger - it should run very freely with no interference from other parts of the mechanism.

The next thing is to replace the gathering click, but tie the gravity arm up with a bit of wire so that it won't drop.  Then swing the pendulum again while the gathering click advances the countwheel and see how long it takes to decay compared with swinging free.  As mentioned earlier, the gathering click should ONLY JUST gather one tooth at time.  Any more and that also robs energy from the pendulum.

Every 30 seconds, the vane on the countwheel arbor flips the gravity arm latch - another source of energy loss.  Make sure that the spring on the gravity arm latch is just strong enough to replace the latch.

Now, the ONLY source of energy input is the falling of the gravity arm.  That energy input must balance the combined drains mentioned above.

If you look at the clock as a whole with these thoughts in mind, you may be able to focus on where the greatest energy loss is, or why there isn't enough energy input.

Give it a go - you might surprise yourself!

Best regards,
Ian R



-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Wollaston <chris@...>
To: synchronome1@groups.io
Sent: Wed, 2 Jun 2021 13:05
Subject: Re: [synchronomeelectricclock] DRIVING SLAVE SYNCHRONOME DIALS WITHOUT A MASTER CLOCK PRESENT?

Hi Ian and all, With your wonderful experience gathered over many years of dozens of Synchronome Masters & 6 working at home, would you like to pop round to my home in E Sussex and breath life into my 1925 master!! I can provide lunch and a modest contribution to travel expenses so long as it's not Scotland hoho!
I'm new to Synchronome ownership and please believe me, it's extremely frustrating having followed Miles to the letter with kind help from Jim who worked on it for 5 hours BUT still it won't run.
I'm not joking, these clocks are old pieces of machinery and need experienced maintainers. I'm definitely NOT experienced BUT dearly want it set up and operational and need on-site HELP please.  I'm so exasperated with it that I am willing to pay someone to travel to me to set it up and instruct me on how to keep it operational. Otherwise it's just a nice architectural mahogany case with a clock inside as an expensive ornament on the wall in my hall!!
IMHO that's not funny and not cost effective. Bests, Chris in E Sussex.  My telephone is 07970 530655. Pse call or send me an email with your no. and I'll call.


H Hal
 

hello Chris,


did you ever post a video of it "working", viewing and listening can give much information to enable a diagnosis


regards


hal

uk

On 02/06/2021 12:05, Chris Wollaston wrote:
Hi Ian and all, With your wonderful experience gathered over many years of dozens of Synchronome Masters & 6 working at home, would you like to pop round to my home in E Sussex and breath life into my 1925 master!! I can provide lunch and a modest contribution to travel expenses so long as it's not Scotland hoho!
I'm new to Synchronome ownership and please believe me, it's extremely frustrating having followed Miles to the letter with kind help from Jim who worked on it for 5 hours BUT still it won't run.
I'm not joking, these clocks are old pieces of machinery and need experienced maintainers. I'm definitely NOT experienced BUT dearly want it set up and operational and need on-site HELP please.  I'm so exasperated with it that I am willing to pay someone to travel to me to set it up and instruct me on how to keep it operational. Otherwise it's just a nice architectural mahogany case with a clock inside as an expensive ornament on the wall in my hall!!
IMHO that's not funny and not cost effective. Bests, Chris in E Sussex.  My telephone is 07970 530655. Pse call or send me an email with your no. and I'll call.


bailey.services@...
 

If someone has spent 5 hours on it without success then there must be a problem! And the obvious has probably already been tried. But as per Ian’s advice depth of gathering arm is critical, if you watch the count wheel and it moves counterclockwise as the gathering arm swings back to the left to take another bite then that’s wrong, the gathering arm is set too low.

Another point to check is the suspension spring, the book I think says 5 thou (0.127mm) which is pretty flexible, last clock I fiddled with had a spring of 0.4mm 3 and a bit times thicker, extra weight had been added to the gravity arm to compensate but may never have worked. I’m sure others have seen similar bodges?

I think we would all like to see the video!

Howard


Chris Wollaston
 

Hi Howard & Chris & All, I really do appreciate all the advice you chaps are offering, it's very kind and considerate. Here's a background to my rather headlong dive into electro-mechanical clocks these past 2 years:
Last year I bought a Brillie on eBay and went to collect it Nr Swindon. It was sold as a non-runner. I bought Bob Miles's translations of Brillie & Bulle clocks plus his lovely tomb on Synchronomes, 2nd Edn. I've subsequently managed to get the Brillie mounted and running - hooray!
I also bought a Bullette from Clocks on the Moors - it's not yet a proper runner despite being sold as such.
I collected a splendid Synchronome in architectural case with 1925 movement, Serial 1152. The chap I collected it from had bought it from a dealer but had never got it going. I've found out why......the pendulum was incorrect and the bob only 9.25lbs!! Jim has supplied me with the correct pendulum, spring, trunnion, & 16lb bob.
I've studied Miles' and tvtesla instrs on wall mounting - massive solid wall, plumbed vertical and screwed firmly in 4 places.
Jim discovered the catch on the gravity arm that engages the latch has been botched, it's not all steel, someone has glued on a fat finger of copper.
He is looking for a pukka replacement or making me one but if anyone has a spare I'm v happy to buy it?
We've set the jewel on the end of the gathering arm to just brush over the top of each tooth on the count wheel, not drop into the V between teeth.
At the mo the vane takes 2 successive pulls of the count wheel teeth before the latch parts company with the too thick botched catch - appreciated this is incorrect....
I've studied Ch 13 of Miles intensely but Fig 13/2 doesn't clearly show the exact relationship of the roller to the impulse slope when the pendulum is dead centre.
Fig 13/7 is a good close up but leaves out where the pendulum is in this relationship and the roller appears to be well away from the pallet slope?
Jim changed my 4.5V DC pack of 3xD brand new Duracells which I was told would drive the pilot and return the gravity arm as providing insufficient current - 330mA as per the manual, so we're now using a 12V, 7Ah sealed lead acid bty and a rheostat from a Gent.
I'm hoping things will improve with a pukka catch which could be the key to the whole issue BUT, there are so many variables in the movement setup that not having sufficient experience is a major disadvantage. I'm convinced that setting up the majority of these clocks is a definite skill which I haven't yet acquired.
Anyway, thanks again for all the advice, I look forward to a replacement catch and a visit from a person with the skill whereupon I'll watch and learn avidly!
I'm determined to get this clock running correctly eventually plus I have 2 beautiful Synchronome slaves in wood and a Smiths Programmer waiting in the wings! Bests, Chris in E Sussex.


Peter Torry
 

Chris,

I can really recommend joining the Antiquarian Horological Society's Electrical Horology Group as you will have available a wealth of information from nearly 100 technical papers.

https://www.ahsoc.org/groups/electrical-horology-group/

Regards

Peter

On 02/06/2021 18:48, Chris Wollaston wrote:
Hi Howard & Chris & All, I really do appreciate all the advice you chaps are offering, it's very kind and considerate. Here's a background to my rather headlong dive into electro-mechanical clocks these past 2 years:


 

Hi Chris,

I am in East Sussex, Bexhill in fact.  Not too far from Hailsham.  I have restored a few of these clocks to working order.  Without seeing yours it is difficult to know the fault.  I see one responder here suggested a video.  I have used that technique myself.  It is an excellent suggestion.  Running and then stopping means that there is not enough power getting through to the pendulum.  If you do not get it running I am willing to take a look for the price of a cup of coffee.

Let me know.

Regards,

Simon

On Wed, 2 Jun 2021 at 21:29, Peter Torry via groups.io <peter.torry=talktalk.net@groups.io> wrote:
Chris,

I can really recommend joining the Antiquarian Horological Society's
Electrical Horology Group as you will have available a wealth of
information from nearly 100 technical papers.

https://www.ahsoc.org/groups/electrical-horology-group/

Regards

Peter



On 02/06/2021 18:48, Chris Wollaston wrote:
> Hi Howard & Chris & All, I really do appreciate all the advice you
> chaps are offering, it's very kind and considerate. Here's a
> background to my rather headlong dive into electro-mechanical clocks
> these past 2 years:
>







--
Simon