Count wheel & backstop roller


Andrew Nahum
 

In mine there is a c shaped clip or circlip that retains the roller. Is there a groove around the wire you can see under a glass? 


On Mon, Feb 22, 2021 at 3:41 PM Chris Wollaston <chris@...> wrote:
Dear All, I've just joined the forum and in the process of setting up my 1920s Synchronome master (Serial 1152) in mahogany case and have carefully dismounted the Y-shaped brass bracket that holds the count wheel and latch because the pivot pins were bent and the wheel gummed up with old sticky oil.  Now cleaned and straightened I'm poised to re-assemble but see that I've been supplied with either a wee glass or solid alloy roller bead to fit on the backstop wire.  However, there doesn't seem to be a way of preventing the bead falling off the wire so is it just held in place by the brass Y or should I drop a spot of glue on the end to prevent it falling off? Bests, Chris in E Sussex


John Hubert
 

Glass is correct.  I have also used perspex (glass is relatively difficult to drill) with success.  The keys to the clock running well are that;

  1. The teeth of the count wheel are clean and dry (it runs with the teeth dry NOT oiled)
  2. The gathering jewel engages the teeth JUST enough to gather a tooth and allow the backstop roller to drop - not more.  Having the jewel set too low looses energy and the Synchronome is pretty ’tight’ on energy.
  3. The slope of the pallet down which the roller rolls must also be clean and dry - as must the surfaces of the roller itself.  It should drop just on the corner of the slope.

Bob's book should enable you to get it running fine.  The clock pictured has run well for many years for me without anything more than an occasional clean and keeps excellent time.

John

On 22 Feb 2021, at 16:07, Chris Wollaston <chris@...> wrote:

Hi John, many tks for that and excellent picture. I'm going to require a steady pair of hands to get it set up.  Any preference as to which bead to use, glass or alloy? The alloy one has a raised edge both sides.  Also, I've been avidly studying Bob Miles tome Ch 13 on setting up the pendulum and impulse pallet under the roller and am now awaiting a replacement suspension spring as the one that came with the clock is twice as long as the correct version shown on p.236 plus it has a crimp in the metal. This will be the next challenge. Chris


Chris Wollaston
 

Hi John, many tks for that and excellent picture. I'm going to require a steady pair of hands to get it set up.  Any preference as to which bead to use, glass or alloy? The alloy one has a raised edge both sides.  Also, I've been avidly studying Bob Miles tome Ch 13 on setting up the pendulum and impulse pallet under the roller and am now awaiting a replacement suspension spring as the one that came with the clock is twice as long as the correct version shown on p.236 plus it has a crimp in the metal. This will be the next challenge. Chris


John Hubert
 

In fact it cannot ‘fall off’ because the K shaped bridge is ‘in the way’.  Photo of a slightly earlier clock (which has been running for many years) attached.


John

On 22 Feb 2021, at 15:41, Chris Wollaston <chris@...> wrote:

Dear All, I've just joined the forum and in the process of setting up my 1920s Synchronome master (Serial 1152) in mahogany case and have carefully dismounted the Y-shaped brass bracket that holds the count wheel and latch because the pivot pins were bent and the wheel gummed up with old sticky oil.  Now cleaned and straightened I'm poised to re-assemble but see that I've been supplied with either a wee glass or solid alloy roller bead to fit on the backstop wire.  However, there doesn't seem to be a way of preventing the bead falling off the wire so is it just held in place by the brass Y or should I drop a spot of glue on the end to prevent it falling off? Bests, Chris in E Sussex


Chris Wollaston
 

Dear All, I've just joined the forum and in the process of setting up my 1920s Synchronome master (Serial 1152) in mahogany case and have carefully dismounted the Y-shaped brass bracket that holds the count wheel and latch because the pivot pins were bent and the wheel gummed up with old sticky oil.  Now cleaned and straightened I'm poised to re-assemble but see that I've been supplied with either a wee glass or solid alloy roller bead to fit on the backstop wire.  However, there doesn't seem to be a way of preventing the bead falling off the wire so is it just held in place by the brass Y or should I drop a spot of glue on the end to prevent it falling off? Bests, Chris in E Sussex