Laurence, This has been a very useful email chain and the end result looks great - far more lead in the pencil now so to speak. I have just checked and the minimum length order for round 1.5mm Pt from

Meant to add the important bit about getting the case level I just used a long spirit level along the side of case and adjusted to level before marking the holes. Get Outlook for Android

Hi Chris, Unless the wall is wonky the first plane will more or less take care of itself. For the side to side plane, use the hanging hook on the back of the case to get it supported temporarily and t

That is a great clock. I can't help on the replacement wiring itself but out of interest, do you think the wire from the bottom of the armature follows its original factory-installed route or would it

That is a good idea and might save a few clocks from a sad fate. But then we need to bear in mind that "today's generation" have grown up with Amazon Prime where we order something today and expect de

I have added photos of my clock to the Group Photos for general reference. The movement one shows the wire disappearing up behind the coils. There are no holes in the chassis in the normal place where

John, I can't see any visible evidence of my clock using the chassis at all for the circuit. The jump lead from the armature does not visibly connect to the chassis - whereas the others I have looked

Andrew, I suppose I just want the clock to behave in a standard way like others. Mine too runs on 3v nominal (actually showing as 3.3v) but I had to add the 3 ohms to get the current right and all the

Thanks John. Hmm, doing this only shows open circuit (trying various places on the chassis to the terminal) whereas measuring between the terminal and the armature contact itself gives 4.5 ohms which

I think you are right - I need a couple of days off work and peace and quiet to sort it out. Lockdown means the house is still full of children that I would love to get back to school out the way. I'v

Hal, Ian, thanks for the replies. I did think the maths worked out a bit suspiciously as if only one coil was connected but how do I go about proving the function of either coil? The tails of those co

According to Mitchell's "Setting to Work" instructions the total resistance in the Synchronome is made up of of 8.7 ohms (main solenoid) and 2.45 ohms (pilot slave) giving around 11.15 ohms total. My

Andy, Jim DC supply carried on into the early 1970s in parts of central London for the arc lights in the theatres and the printing presses in Fleet Street. Regards Brian Get Outlook for Android

I use a 3.7 volt phone charger along with low current fuses on both wires. Works ok apart from during power cuts. I used to use a trickle-charged battery but it involved too much paraphernalia for the

Thanks for this link John - there are some very interesting things in the auction. In lot 1122 are those spare movements the "double A frame" ones that they experimented with and then withdrew at some

I have worked out the issue with my clock so I thought I would share it for anyone else who might experience it in the future. My clock was one of the first to get the gravity arm backstop buffer. The

Neil that clock is a corker. Two questions: does one of those dials display a differential between frequency time and master time? (i have seen a similar clock made by Everett edgecumbe at Amberley mu

John this is an interesting discovery. The maths is a bit beyond me so for those of us educated to Borstal level do you mean if the pendulum is reaching say +/-4 on the beat scale then the whole arc c

I can't speak for any other Synchronomes but on mine the jewel only just made it over the hill of the countwheel tooth at +/-2.5. Any less and it ground to a halt. All the ones I have looked at on You

Well that's one less thing to worry about then! Plenty of other adjustments to play with in any case. All good fun. regards Brian Get Outlook for Android