One point too bear in mind is that the chassis is the junction between the ’switch’ and the solenoids. If it is required to access the switch independently, then a connection is needed here. Some cloc

OK, thanks. The standard Synchronome type (as Bob Miles book) doesn’t have a relay ‘between' the master and the board. I use an emitter follower (removable without trace) to limit the master contact c

Hi Peter, That looks very similar to the Synchronome type. John

The Synchronome Distribution Board is a system to allow clock circuits to be operated in parallel from one master clock. A series clock circuit (such as the typical Synchronome, Gents etc) has the dia

I was puzzled about why the first two images posted in jpg and the third in heic. I posted all by dragging the image from “photos” into the e mail being written. I think probably the reason may be tha

It was taken (the photo) on an iPhone and mailed via a Mac. For some reason, the first two photos (all 3 were taken today) appear as photos, the third as a .heic file. The purpose was to illustrate th

The third and final trace is a ’triangle movement’ Synchronome, running alone with a standard slave movement. The duration here is 35.6 mS The triangle movement is slightly different to the normal Syn

Trace 2 is a later clock, running alone and having No 1 (i.e. small) slave movement. This clock also has a seconds switch, though that is an entirely separate circuit. The duration is 89 mS (again see

Here are 3 oscilloscope captures - which shows how much the impulse duration can vary. Trace 1 is an early clock running a largeish system via a distribution board. Despite the master movement running

Some years ago I made (and still use) some constant current units. The design is from the LM317 application notes. Details attached;

The master draws 300 - 350 mA …….. but the duty cycle is low; approximately 100 - 150 mS every 30 seconds, so the average is low. J

OK, what I actually do is quite different as I have a large system with a distribution board etc. If you have no risk/worry over power cuts, then a ‘wall wart’ type adaptor is fine. If you get power c

You will have to try it. It is entirely possible the bob is a replacement, but the weight is not ‘critical’. The rod itself is quite light, so the bob dominates the CoG. You might have to extend the t

I have just had an (approximate) as they are running measure. Clock No 1 - Lead bob about 16 lbs I believe - fitted with light early type weight tray. Approx 90 cm from top of lower brass suspension b

The ‘notch’ is really a little file cut - and I don’t think it was always used, but I have seen it on some of my clocks. It was not very accurate because things varied. A variety of bob shapes and var

Perspex works well and is easy to work. It also looks almost indistinguishable from glass. You can buy a rod of perspex very reasonably and make the rollers in a small lathe. Glass is more difficult,

Glass is correct. I have also used perspex (glass is relatively difficult to drill) with success. The keys to the clock running well are that; The teeth of the count wheel are clean and dry (it runs w

In fact it cannot ‘fall off’ because the K shaped bridge is ‘in the way’. Photo of a slightly earlier clock (which has been running for many years) attached. John

If you search eBay - there is an un-machined impulse pallet casting listed in the UK. (I am not and have no connection with the seller - nor have I ever seen or examined the part.) John