Thanks John, I'm pleased with how it is coming. It's certainly made up of mismatched bits - particularly the armature plate required rebushing and moving it down ~1mm to get the

Firstly, I don’t believe you have either 29, or 99 as a ‘true’ serial number for that movement. The reason is that 29 and 99 are VERY low numbers dating to circa pre 1910), and the features on

Dear All, The main movement has been cleaned, re-lacquered and rebuilt. Pivots and bushes all now fit and movement set up and works. Looks a lot better (see below) -

Thank you John, I was not aware of that excellent series of articles! I can now make the few bits that are missing (e.g. gathering jewel assembly) - fortunately not too

Brilliant! Thanks, Neil. Grant

2.8mm, measured 3x on 2 clocks. Neil Jepsen. B.Sc. M.Sc(Hons).CPL.MASNZ.Jepsen Acoustics & Electronics Ltd22 Domain StreetPalmerston North.New Zealand.Ph +64 6 3577539 Mob 0274428094Web site:

Grant, in the files section there is acopy of articles by Elliott Isaacs on making a Nome that should have the

Thanks Neil, Can you tell me the gap between the suspension blocks please? Cheers, Grant

Hi grant. If you get stuck, I have 2 running Nomes that I can measure up for you. I also have 2 IBM electric master clocks running thes e are GREAT timekeepers. Neil Jepsen. B.Sc.

Dear All, I have been donated a Synchronome which came in 2 plastic bags and a back plate - so hours of fun ahead. Not too surprisingly the parts don't match: the pivots on the wheel,

Hold a square file (tapered) in a vice so it is pointing upwards, and slip the hand square onto the file snugly. The collet is now secure, using both your hands hold the min hand around

Hello John and Ian, Usually the brass bushing in a minutes hand is riveted and can be rotated although this takes some force. I usually use a small square file in the vice and with trial and error get

John, Good point. I haven't encountered that problem often, but seem to recall that the brass bush with the square hole can be moved slightly within the hand and then secured in place with a drop of

Ian, One thing that has puzzled me is having set up the impulsing correctly how do you get the minute hand to land accurately on the dial battons? The hand sits on a square on the minute arbor and is

Eric, A further point to note is that with Synchronome slave movements, the armature should ideally not touch the magnet pole face as there is an adjustable back stop. However, the adjustment of the

Thanks, Ian. You are right about the settings preventing contact — I had overlooked that. It was the slave moment that I was remembering...

What you say is correct, but shouldn't be necessary as there is a buffer which limits the proximity of the armature to the pole pieces. In my previous posting with a sketch of the settings, I

Good tip - I think you’ve put your finger on it. In my case the sticking certainly felt magnetic. Suggested by the way the grip let go as soon as the gravity arm was pulled away by a quarter of a

The coil pole face should be covered with a piece of paper or electrical tape. This helps prevent the armature from sticking to the pole face due to residual magnetism. I’ve had good results with

Dear Friends, Please forgive the same post across a few groups. I know some of you will already have heard the very sad news, but for those who have not, I am sorry to say that we lost Nick Maag at