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Solari clocks are usually either autonomous (electrical rewound stand alone) or slave clocks that need alternating pulses. Tension varies from 1.5V (specials for French systems like Billie) to 60 Volts, sometimes there is the choose between 2 tensions (e. g 24 and 48 Volts) . Nice clock!
Op di, jan. 5, 2021 om 7:25 schreef Darren Conway
I have some relays that will do the job but I am thinking that a
cheap Chinese opto-coupler might be a better solution.
Even a single relay will generate a spark at the contact. So
there would be benefit in fitting a snubber. In the interests of
aesthetics, it would be better to install this on the back of the
frame out of sight.
As far as I can tell, it looks like the cast iron frame is held
on with a big round head screw and two studs with double nuts.
I have just today purchased by on-line auction this Solari Udine
flip clock. I haven't picked it up yet so I hope it is
complete. I know it needs 24VDC so a relay driver or
opto-coupler would be good options.
I can see that it is missing the
makers label lower centre that looks like this:
I could reproduce it, but I would
rather find an original part. Does anyone know where I
might find this part?
On 5.01.21 12:55 pm, Tracy and Raymond
van Orsoy de Flines wrote:
Best is to use a relay. I got a Gents masterclock
(Hipp Toggle) and run the 30 second slave clocks through a
I now have 1 Master and 2 Slaves running from a 12V
supply. There is enough resistance to limit the current
to within spec (~240mA).
I am seeing arcing across the Master clock contacts.
This can't be good.
Is there a standard solution to this problem? If not, I
would add an RC snubber between the top terminal and the
cast iron frame from the back.
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