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Peter: welcome to group and I would like to see pictures to get a better understanding of the problem.
On Jul 28, 2020, at 4:36 PM, steenbn <steen@...> wrote:
I have owned a couple of Taiwanese boats over the years, and I love them. The teak work is without par, and some of the best 70's and 80's designers used these far east yards to have their boats build. This is also true for all the versions of the Kelly Peterson 44. The only problem is that these yards, and workers, had very little idea how to build a boat and what forces a boat at sea it subject to. Jack Kelly had a staff in the Taiwan yard when the boats were being build, not to insure the quality of the work, but to be able to make a detailed list of things that needed to be replaced/repaired once each boat was unloaded in San Diego.
Just last summer i came to the realization that my Formosa 46 is build out of three pieces, hull, deck, house. see post 'How is a Formosa 46 build' Typically you build a glass boat out of two molds, the hull and the deck. The hull/deck joint needs to be incredibly strong as it keeps the hull from collapsing as a wet shoe box without a lid. On top of that you have the load from the rigging working very hard on deforming that mid-ship hull. There are tremendous lateral forces but on the deck structure on a sailboat. Yes there are 1/2" marine ply bulkheads helping the hull stay in its intended shape, but none of them are the full width of the hull.
I would be very worried if I had cracks, beyond paint/bondo cracks, along the cabin/deck 'joint'. The cabin and deck is glassed together on the inside with a heavy, but 'cold' polyester joint. Polyester does not stick well to cured, or cold, polyester. Epoxy does a much better job, but i doubt that is what was used. If it was me, i would open up the inside of the cabin sides and take a good look at the glazing and tap it to detect any de-lamination. If any part of the joint looks compromised, i would cut it out and glass a new joint using epoxy resin.