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What step size do you use and what cutter diameter?
I’ve found if I use a step of >=50% the cutter foam, I get these “leftovers”, but, if I set a step of 30-40%, it tends to be clean. Takes longer, of course.
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On Mar 21, 2019, at 6:15 PM, John Ferguson via Groups.Io <jferg977@...
I thought I was asking about swarf.
On 3/21/19 5:30 PM, Art Eckstein wrote:
Been there and done that! I use a probing function on a fixed
pad that has +5V on it and a ground clip on the tool to make sure
a good contact. The touch pad is on G53 and I have managed to
tool offsets work in Turbocnc. I believe others have done it in
Mach and other controllers. Another way to do it is to have a
dedicated area on your blank pcb and use the electrical method to
off and not worry about fixture offsets.
In this case, use a probe function and call a G92 Z0 at the
Raise the tool to clear everything and forge on.
At 3/21/2019 04:52 PM, bownes wrote:
Probably starting a
war, but I've actually had better luck with engraving bits that
mills for traces. I change over to a real mill for milling
What I really need to do is master gcode well enough to have a
that re-zero's the height after changing a bit.
On Thu, Mar 21, 2019 at 4:26 PM John Ferguson via Groups.Io
- I suppose swarf isn't the best word, but I'm curious about
guys get rid of the chips which lodge in cuts.Â I've been
them out with a needle, buy it's tedious.
- I've got 90 psi air in the shop. Maybe I should try that.
- I've got my production system running very smoothly.
Design In Eagle,
generate Gcode in pcpcode, sometimes include autocad
millwork with gcode
generated in SheetCAM, set up work piece, set height on
- I make all of my boards from 2.5x4.0 workpieces. I made an
fixture with a depression which fist these workpieces and
has a lid which
locates 4 holes one in each corner.Â I drill the holes and
screw the board down to an HDPE fixture bolted to the table
on my 6040
router.Â The HDPE has 4 holes which take 6-32 nylon socket
caps screws.Â I face off the surface the board sits on
every 4th or
5th board to maintain level.Â
- I adjust the bit height by rolling a piece of .250 drill
rod back and
forth until the bit just clears and then dropping it one
click on the
servo so it doesn't quite clear.Â I have vertical "home"
set at Z=1.000 on the machine so I have to raise the spindle
I start.Â I suppose I could lower the home to .250 and
the "raise" but having it at one inch gives me enough time
catch some kinds of screw-ups.
- I've been delighted with this bit. I buy them from Precise
they seem to last pretty well.Â
- EM3E8-0100-15V 0.0100in. (0.254mm) tip dia., 3-flute 15Â°
stub trace-isolation bit, 0.020 in. DOC, 1.42 in. (36mm) OAL
- The size of the bur on the edge of cuts seems to increase
wear out, but only downside of this seems to be more
dressing of the
finished board. I use 400 grit paper and final clean up with
- I've been tinning the finished boards with MG Chemical
I'm a bit mystified why I get better tinning if i rough up
the board with
400 grit before plating it.Â I wash board with acetone
- After I've soldered everything (all through hole - no smds
yet), I go
over the board with a loupe and remove any shorts with braid
out any suspicious cuts with a needle.
- and they always work, at least the ones I haven't messed
- If you read this and see anything stupid, let me know.Â
I'm still like a better way to get rid of chips.
- John fergusonÂ delray beach