Re: What an I Missing - Eagle Question? #eagle

John Ferguson
 

HI Fred,

The autoleveler sounds like a good idea, although my typical work sequence is I set up the fixture, fly-cut it and then leave it on for a month or two - no more leveling needed.  I'm doing very small autonomous fixed wing aircraft design -by myself - and find that it's better to have two aspects of this going at once, electronics (pcb board) and coding work ok, but not pcb and airframe, because I cut airframe parts on the 6040 on a vacuum table which cannot co-exist with the pcb fixture. 

it's the traces between the pads on the microcontroller which cause most of my problems, but I have to have them or vias.  I could do two sides using scheme you suggest, but so far haven't.  I start my first run with a slight prick at 0,0 which I could drill through to index other side.  Itr is helpful if i have to re-index a card for another pass, although I couldn't do this the way I work if I've had some reason to take the card off the router.

I'm surprised your router didn't come with ball screws, mine did.  One of the highlights of the purchase was discovering the ballscrews were metris not imperial as advertised.  this didn't cause much of a problem with small stuff, but later on when I started to make 8 nch parts things didn't fit weel with parts made on my mill.

I love this stuff, though and really Eagle ought to be able to do better.  I have the lingering feeeling that I really have missed something.

john

On 11/17/18 9:37 AM, Fred Genius wrote:

I have the same problem, the autorouter seems to like running tracks between pads and I don’t like that, means a greater chance of a bad board.

 

Just for reference, I have a 3020 router, with a milling vice bolted to the bed. The vice has 80mm wide stepped jaws, and the pcb sits nicely on the step. I use Autoleveller  software, takes the output from pcbgcode and adds probing code so I don’t need to worry about the board being level.

 

I use carbide ‘V’ bits, typically 20°, they’re cheap enough so I use a fresh one for every board.

 

To make double-sided boards, I drill one hole all the way thought the board, usually the one nearest to the right-hand edge of the board. When I flip the board to etch the second side, I position the drill at the negative value of the original position, and push the board onto the drill bit, then lower the z until the board is sitting on the jaw step, then I can tighten the jaws knowing that it’s correctly located.

 

The router had one major problem when I first got it, there was a huge amount of backlash on all axes, and a huge number of failed boards. I replaced with ball screws and everything is good now.

 

Fred Ö¿Ö

 

From: pcbgcode@groups.io [mailto:pcbgcode@groups.io] On Behalf Of John Ferguson via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 November 2018 14:13
To: pcbgcode@groups.io
Subject: Re: [pcbgcode] What an I Missing - Eagle Question? #eagle

 

yes, I think.  That is the file which tells Eagle I want 10 mil traces and 14 mil clearances isn't it?

On 11/17/18 8:52 AM, Chipteck wrote:

Have you checked your DRL file in Eagle?
I am using specific DRL files for establishing clearances/etc.

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