Borden's Glue (was: Interesting Podcasts)


That's interesting. When I read the article about Guzzwell's build in WoodenBoat long ago, I picked up (erroneously) that the glue he used was a "modified" PVA, not a "catalyzed" PVA, perhaps because I'd never heard of such a thing. <g> A quick check of the Interweb revealed that Borden has made more than one glue called "Wonderbond", or "Wonder Bond"; Wonderbond XB90K5 seems to be the one Guzzwell used, but I haven't found out much about it yet.

Was building the Petey Dink CM what made you want to build a skin on frame Katydidn't?

John Guzzwell certainly has had an interesting life!

On 1/2/2020 5:50 AM, Randy T wrote:
John Guzzwell, in the class and his other boat builds, used Wonderbond, a catalyzed PVA which is boil proof. We would use a spritzer bottle to add the catalyst to get the right ratio.  John talked about building his wife's boat and having a crew put the fiberglass on.  The dingy we build in the class was the Atkins Petey Dink CM, which based on Katydidn't. Somewhere I have a cut off from the hull that has the three layers of Khaya Mahogany, effectively we made plywood.
On of the stories John told was when he was interned in Germany during WWII, he and other children convinced a German sergeant to let them go outside the castle to play.  The sergeant was not seen again, most likely was transferred to the Russian front.
John <@Jkohnen>
There is something to be said for every error; but, whatever may be said for it, the most important thing to be said about it is that it is erroneous. (Gilbert K. Chesterton)

Randy Torgerson


The decision on which dingy to build has been a long and tortured path although the goal has not changed, the need for a dingy when I cruise the inland passage either in my plastic boat or the Tolman.  Whatever I build, the dingy will need to be light enough that I can pull it on-board by myself and small enough to fit on the foredeck.  A Cedar strip boat is relatively light weight and easy, if not tedious, to build.  The Katydidn’t was designed for 3/8 x 1 inch Cedar strips and can easily be built with 1/4 x 3/4 inch Cedar strips with glass inside and out. 

The Pety Dink CM would also be easy to build but there are three issues that would have to be addressed.  I would need to either borrow John Guzzwell’s mold or build my own.  If I built my own, then I could adjust the length as needed.  The materials to build the mold would not be much but would take a little time.  The second issue is the glue, Wonderbond is no longer listed on Hexion’s web page and most likely not available in the small volumes I need (Hexion purchased Borden’s chemical division).  I could use epoxy but epoxy is messy in cold molded boat building.  A water based glue would be preferable so Titebond III would be my choice for a small boat used in protected water. 

The third issue is getting the flitches; Edensaw would cut them but the cost would be very high.  I talked to a millworks in Portland that has a saw for cutting veneers and they would do it at $60 per hour, 2 hours minimum and I would provide the wood.  You have to expect 50% loss of wood to sawdust.  RiversWest has flitches that were donated and want to sell but I have not been able to get them to give me a price.  I talked to one gentleman who had extra flitches left over from a boat build but he wanted way too much for them; more than it would cost me to get them made.  Using 3mm plywood would add extra weight since you would double the thickness of the hull and the inner plies provide no strength.

After reading Robert Morris’s book, Building Skin-On-Frame Boats, I decided that I could use the Katydidn’t as a starting point and I drew up a design that I call Peter Dink in homage to Peter Dinklage.  I would use steamed Oak ribs with Alaskan Yellow Cedar stringers.  The transoms would be 6mm plywood framed with Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  The knees, thwarts and just about everything else would be made from Alaskan Yellow Cedar since I have a couple hundred board feet of air dried 2x6’s in my woodshed.  I would use ballistic nylon and polyurethane varnish, most likely from, for the skin.

Now if I only could finish the canoe in my garage I could get started on the dingy.  I have attached a photo of Dolly’s Pety Dink CM build by John.