Date   

Re: Tuffy's Electrics

 

In case anyone tuned in late, my Nordica 16, Tuffy, has what I think is half of Cal's electric motor setup on Surprise. I have on 80 lb. Minn Kota bolt-on motor bolted to the side of Tuffy's keel, and Cal has two bolted to Surprise's bottom.

On 5/29/2020 11:55 PM, John Kohnen wrote:
Thanks, Cal, but I had some of the stuff already myself, and the voltage reducer wasn't expensive. (Sorry, Bob, there just wasn't room for that 30 lb. vacuum tube DC/DC convertor you gave me. <g>). The Link 10 combines a battery monitor with an ammeter, and came with a suitable shunt.
...
--
John <@Jkohnen>
Next to power without honor, the most dangerous thing in the world is power without humor. (Eric Sevareid)
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Re: Tuffy's Electrics

 

Thanks, Cal, but I had some of the stuff already myself, and the voltage reducer wasn't expensive. (Sorry, Bob, there just wasn't room for that 30 lb. vacuum tube DC/DC convertor you gave me. <g>). The Link 10 combines a battery monitor with an ammeter, and came with a suitable shunt.

I might be interested in the big battery charger. It will charge just two batteries OK? How many amps maximum output? The 24 volt charger that came with Tuffy is a slow wheelchair battery charger.

But there's no place to plug in a charger out at Richardson. <sigh> Any ideas about a suitable 24 volt solar panel setup?

Oh, and a shout out to Earl! The hydraulic press I got from him works dandy for crimping battery cable terminals (with a suitable crimping gadget I already had). :o)

On 5/29/2020 3:16 PM, Electri-Cal wrote:
Wish I'd known that, John.  I have enough electric stuff to do what you just did, or close to that.  I have a voltage led indicator that simply ...
Biggest leftover item is a big 3 deep cycle battery charger, seperate for each drive battery, two to supply the 24 volt, plus one spare for take offs, reading lights, etc.
...
let me know, as this is a stand alone unit that doesn't do my twin 24v. two packs at once, so I'm probably relisting that soon. I added super plugs for easy maintenence, but I never used it. Could drop out the spare battery, just charge two, as an optional way to do it.
--
John <@Jkohnen>
All loose things seem to drift down to the sea, and so did I. (Louis L'Amour)
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Re: Tuffy's Electrics

Electri-Cal
 

Wish I'd known that, John.  I have enough electric stuff to do what you just did, or close to that.  I have a voltage led indicator that simply plugs into a ciggie lighter, voltage, rope end burner, floodlight plug, and depth finder input socket is more the point.  Good idea on the ammeter,  The voltage reducers I have work slick, probably have one or more laying around.  Biggest leftover item is a big 3 deep cycle battery charger, seperate for each drive battery, two to supply the 24 volt, plus one spare for take offs, reading lights, etc.  Fully automatic, commercial tough, and fast charge.  If you find somebody who needs 3 batteries charged, let me know, as this is a stand alone unit that doesn't do my twin 24v. two packs at once, so I'm probably relisting that soon. I added super plugs for easy maintenence, but I never used it. Could drop out the spare battery, just charge two, as an optional way to do it. 

Just a note,   Cal


Tuffy's Electrics

 

Tuffy's cuddy ("cabin" gives the wrong idea about it's comforts) is comfortable enough to lie down in, after your carefully back yourself into place on one of the bunks, and you can even roll over if you're careful, but it's mighty difficult for a grown Coot to _work_ in. <sigh> So I've done as much of the revamping of the electrics as possible outside the boat.

There was an extra furlong of battery cable going this way and that, feeding 24 volts to the motor and drawing off one battery for 12 volts for everything else. I ripped most of those cables out and put in a 24-12 volt convertor to supply everything but the motor. I added a little of my own complication by adding a shunt for a Link 10 ammeter and battery monitor, and fuses for the Link 10 and a depth sounder. This panel will screw onto the inside of the port cuddy bulkhead, then I just need to attach a few wires. Wish me luck. I'll try to remember to have my cell phone along, in case I get stuck:

https://flic.kr/p/2j6BdVV

There's a fuse panel and other 12 volt stuff on the inside of the starboard bulhead. I'm afraid to look at it. <g> For now, I'll just feed it 12 volts to it and hope for the best. It's getting to be time to go sailing! :o)

--
John <@Jkohnen>
Society is like a stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you get a lot of scum on the top. (Edward Abbey)


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Re: Boat turning

Jhcalbany@aol.com
 

I thought I had an extra day to give people time to plan to come, but if today is alright we'll soldier on. Sorry about that, gotta start looking at the calendar
Jim


More Bits and Pieces

Electri-Cal
 

Chatted with Charlie Vader today.  He is coming over to do some custom  "one screen multi transducers" type wiring.  The Chinese diagrams don't look quite right.  Then I ordered an "ultra" pickup with mega lighting, that could be a night fishing, or dak water asset.  Don't know, but next Tuesday we  will breadboard it all up as 12 v.,  but the unit will handle 24 volt.  The same as the main motor battery pack, so will be testing performance on both sources.

Latef,   Porky    aka, -- Cal the wonderer !!


Re: Boat turning

 

Oh, the boat we'll be turning is this one:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmJpGR18

I'm looking forward to seeing how it's coming along.

--
John <@Jkohnen>
One boat just leads to another. (John Kohnen)


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Re: Boat turning

 

Thursday as in tomorrow? I oughta be working on my own boats, but I'll be there, Jim.

Jim lives a bit NW of Albany. Email me or Jim for directions if you don't know how to find his place.

On 5/27/2020 6:17 PM, Jim C wrote:
Is anyone interested in coming to my place on Thursday at 1 ish to turn my boat? Bring your lunch & we'll talk about it afterwards?
--
John <@Jkohnen>
If you lose the power to laugh, you lose the power to think. (Clarence Darrow)
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Boat turning

Jhcalbany@aol.com
 

Is anyone interested in coming to my place on Thursday at 1 ish to turn my boat? Bring your lunch & we'll talk about it afterwards?


Re: depth find-ing !

Electri-Cal
 

Whoops, hit a wrong key there.  As soon as it's all able to get wet,  I'm hoping for different stuff than usually seen down there.  So, I'll publish more, after this delay while I figure how to get where I want to be on this.  Probably get John K to do a photo op, as we proceed.

Thanks,  Cal


depth find-ing !

Electri-Cal
 

Looks like I now have over 3 systems on order, in house, or previously installed.  The project will allow several methods of getting to the bottom of things, so to speak.  Gonna take some doing, but I'm now shoothing for underwater multi system testing for my boat.  Should get more info., with todays latest order to upgrade what still hasn't arrived, huh !!!  Oh well, all in the name of science  


Tuffy gets a New Helm Impeder

 

I installed a Huntingford Helm Impeder on Tuffy today. I can't imagine sailing with no way to lock the tiller, and the Huntingford Helm Impeder is cheap and easy to make, and it's infinitely adjustable. You can lock the tiller so it doesn't move at all, or set it so you can move the tiller, but it stays where you put it. I'm a big fan.

I've installed Huntingford Helm Impeders on four small sailboats, and I did it a bit differently each time. The section on Tuffy's installation is belwo Pearl's and Pickle's:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjY7Hr7K

--
John <@Jkohnen>
It is impossible to enjoy idling thoroughly unless one has plenty of work to do. There is no fun in doing nothing when you have nothing to do. Wasting time is merely an occupation then, and a most exhausting one. Idleness, like kisses, to be sweet must be stolen. (Jerome K. Jerome)


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


COVID-19 Risks as Oregon Reopens

 

A pretty good article from NPR about the relative risks of various activities:

https://www.opb.org/news/article/npr-from-camping-to-dining-out-heres-how-experts-rate-the-risks-of-14-summer-activities/

With things are opening up again the danger of infection has increased, so be careful out there, and eat lots of chocolate and wash your hands.
--
John <@Jkohnen>
A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought. (Lord Peter Wimsey)
Sent from some sort of mobile device.


Re: Difficult decision

Electri-Cal
 

That sounds about right, a poor use for gorgeous wood, but nobody wanted to come and look at what was offered free.  I have a friend who repairs guitars, wish i,d thought about him.  Gave him a pre war 1900s small squeeze box to work on last year.

Thanks,  Cal



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------
From: Josh <roseandthistlecustom@...>
Date: 5/22/20 8:25 AM (GMT-08:00)
To: oregoncoots@groups.io
Subject: Re: [oregoncoots] Difficult decision

I've seen some OG yellow cedar that was over 100 rings per inch, we called it instrument grade and used it on soundboards. 


Depth Finder install and test notes

Electri-Cal
 

Looked on line to try for better screen reading with less clutter. Short version, without ads and yuck !!  Due to prop rotation, mount the :puck" on the starboard rear quarter, and keep sensor lines away from other electrical lines.  Mount the puck exactly in line with the bottom, but out of any other attachments, transom welds, bolts, running strakes, and ALL protruding stuff produces wakes.  Preferably have a mount that is in smooth water which can be several inches behind the stern ( seldom done ) to avoid turbulence.  I use a fitted shield to smooth or slow down the flow past the transducer face,  to avoid setback grabbing weed. 

The angle of the puck is important, so first straightedge from the bottom length, STRAIGHT across the pucks face, full length..  Smooth is the way to avoid errors in signal and clutter, it is NOT often the head, its poor water flow past that sensor.  Right now I am doing tests, so until I get back in the water, this is from a couple web sites, and my own observations of possible ways to change, and avoid the clutter. Try to keep the motor power wiring away, on the other side from that sensitive depth finder wire, I'm still  #@$$ !!  doing stuff on my electric drive situation. 


Then, from a web site installer --- To trim it out first raise the aft end of the sensor by 3 mm to start. with, if you get interference, try 5 mm.  The angle of attack depends on you own boats Running Angle !!    A touch of aft end raise at normal cruise speed from dead level, on a rotary gauge or bubble gauge to set those inside and puck angles at Running Speed.   Usually at idle, it reads fine, the faster you go the more water flow plays a part in clean readings. 

Until I get the new unit I have on order, I have set the puck back by 1 1/4 in. to rotate it by 15 deg forward, whoa !!  MAYBE I can get clean readings that way too.  I might be able to see the bottom sooner, with the 15 deg. cone from the puck.  Just as likely, the bottom witl be tilted in some way  on the screen to make that not possible, then I start over and no big deal.  By that time I might have both on line, to check which works best, and accurately.

Mo' to "giddyy up on"  today, you have a good one too, ---  Porky Pig             PS, --- new universal Ram mounts for all boat camera, sound system, bike, and scooter finally in, systems approach to changable "stuff" locations.






Re: Difficult decision

Josh
 

I've seen some OG yellow cedar that was over 100 rings per inch, we called it instrument grade and used it on soundboards. 


Ken Swan

 

The Web page for Ken Swan's designs isn't reachable. I wonder if he's gone to Fiddler's Green. He wasn't in good shape the last time Dick M saw him several years ago, and he apparently moved to San Jose to be close to family. Has anyone heard any news about Ken? I only talked to him him a few times, but he seemd like a Good One, and he sure had a good eye for designing skiffs:

http://www.swanboatdesign.com/

--
John <@Jkohnen>
A person without a sense of humor is like a wagon without springs. It's jolted by every pebble on the road. (Henry Ward Beecher)


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Re: Flailing for a shallow alarm system

Electri-Cal
 

Hey, Myles long time no see !!  I like the idea of a propguard, I put in the twin skegs with an idea to design one for Surprise, then got sidetracked to other pressing stuff.  One hang up is that with the twin 80 lb size  motors,  i'm around 32 in. prop tip to other side tip horizontal.  Then maybe 20 or more in.to clear the tips depth wise.  That's a lot of area to hang a bird cage on!   Check the MinnKota twin 80 lb twins, they usually go on top of a cavitation plate, so these are solidly mounted upside down, as you probably recall, aluminum plate inside the hull.

That' also would be a lot of wire or steel work, a birdcage with potential to hang on stuff, maybe.  I did make angled fins that protect to over the nose cones, but had to leave the lower props exposed.  I carry spares if they get buggered, but the preferred props are a set of 3 bladed power props, not the twin blade stockers.  More power, noticeably less darw, using the Kipawas on my Minn Kotas.  If you stop the 2 bladers they stop horizontally every time, by design, good for the shallow stuff. 

It crossed my mind at one point to make a recessed box with the motors being able to be raised, and a partial cutaway so they would run shallow, but decided that was out of my engineering department, and still is.

Best Wishes, thanks for the thoughts and ideas,   Cal
 


Re: Flailing for a shallow alarm system

Myles Twete
 

Dang, both the boat and I looked so much younger then!
At least the boat motor and prop guard both look like that again now...

Actually, that was the 2nd guard I used. The first (still have sitting in my basement) was more of a nozzle, black and fit just up to maybe a 10-12" prop---I added this guard to the stock prop and from what I could tell (and remember) did see some efficiency improvement. When I decided on going to a larger, 12-14" prop, I found "Propguard" had a 14" one, that was pretty bad-ass looking, so that's what I went with. I did some surgery to the lower unit to swing up to a 14" prop---the original ventilation plate wouldn't even allow an 11" prop probably---so I cut that out and located a new plate up the outboard a ways further (probably tack welded and JB Welded...). Then had to extend the skeg. Most recently, I had that skeg extension welded on, so I won't have the meltdown I had when dragging bottom next time. Anyway, I don't know how much after going to a 12" prop that I added the 14" propguard, but they were around the same time. Maybe someday I'll get a 14x11" prop to fit for even better efficiency, but overall, it's been good economy. A year ago, I circumnavigated Sauvie Island one day, for the first time solely on electric power and decided not to bring a generator just in case---made it back fine, but used more juice than I had anticipated...should do that again.

-MT

-----Original Message-----
From: oregoncoots@groups.io [mailto:oregoncoots@groups.io] On Behalf Of John Kohnen
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 3:01 PM
To: oregoncoots@groups.io
Subject: Re: [oregoncoots] Flailing for a shallow alarm system

Here's Myles's first prop guard, and you can see his jackleg skeg extension if you look close:

https://flic.kr/p/pwsyc9

Didn't you say that you notices an improvement in performance after you put the prop-guard on, Myles?

On 5/20/2020 1:43 PM, Myles T wrote:
Maybe it’s time for a prop guard…?

In 23+ years now with the Reach Of Tide, I’ve not damaged a prop even
once after installing a prop guard---first one installed about 16
years ago.
> ...
When I installed my first 14” prop guard, I needed to extend the
outboard skeg. Being cheap, I made an extension out of aluminum and
JB Welded it to the bottom of the outboard. It held thru a lot of
log- and bottom-interference for maybe 14 years before finally letting
go at the bottom of Cat’pillar island in December as I dragged the
bottom. It was a nice loud dramatic event until everything got quiet!
J
--
John <@Jkohnen>
Truth is the most valuable thing we have. Let us economize it. (Mark Twain)


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


Re: Difficult decision

John Weiss
 

FWIW, way back in the 60s, a group of Snipe racing sailors in upstate NY did a bit of a non-scientific experiment to see if waxing the hulls of their newfangled fiberglass boats would make them go even faster. General consensus was that waxing did NOT help, and may have even hurt a bit. Theory was that the "beading" of the water on the surface still occurred to some extent underwater, causing more drag. Instead they decided on a waxless polish and/or wet-sanding with 600 grit.

On 05/20/20 14:55, John Kohnen wrote:
I'm pretty sure we've talked about those water-repellent coatings before. I believe the consensus opinion was that if you coat the entire surface of the hull below the waterline with the stuff, the boat will "repel" itself up out of the water and float on a film of air above the surface. Planing at rest, so to speak...
;o)
On 5/20/2020 9:20 AM, Electri-Cal wrote:
...
Whoops !!  Almost forgot --  I'm just looking at a new product, another one EH!!     I'm ordering it in for testing today.  It  stops water adhesion to whatever it is applied to, by a lot !!  First  trial will be my great sweeps, one at a time to check it out..  If that works maybe on the boat bottom to reduce friction.  After testing, maybe that could add boat speed without any penalty.  No, I will do an article on this yet !!    If, and When, it Works!!    With the boat on a trailer it may take some doing, lifting and blocking to get clear --
so the oar testing comes first..  If I row in a circle, or with extra drag on one side when trading oars, THEN i'm good to share this out..
...