Wow Randy, an impressive list of books for sure. All a little more technical and engineery than I usually go for. I am reading a great book right now, however: Under the Wave at Waimea by Paul

This seems to be a quiet topic. It has been so long the snow must have melted in AlmostCanada? I hope lots of people are planning to display at Toledo to get this all going again. I will be there

Lead is more noble than steel, so your trailer would sacrifice itself to your lead. The trailer would be the anode, and the lead the cathode... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series -- This

The farther two metals are apart in the Galvanic series the more the baser metal will sacrifice itself to the nobler metal. Be careful when mixing metals underwater, especially in salt or brackish

If you're worried about the electricity in the trailer wiring unplug the trailer lights when launching. I try to remember to do that anyway when the lights use conventional bulbs -- a hot bulb hitting

But your hard landings, like most of us Coots', aren't as scary, or expensive, as that one. <g> Imagine the terror of the passengers who were on that observation deck when the dolphin started getting

"Galvanic corrosion" of ferrous metals is also called "rust". <g> The usual anode material for ferrous metals is zinc, but the anodes need an electrolyte to work, I'm pretty sure. Anodes would help

Claire says the treasures are all gone. -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com

Also Cal, A bit more reading online suggests that this idea probably won't work much, unless you're submerged in an electrolyte most of the time, or your anodes are very close together. Zinc Paint is

I've been pretty cavalier about lead in the past, but the more I learn about its durability and toxicity, the less of it I want around. Using it as a sacrificial anode seems unwise, even if it worked.

That’d make a great coot clubhouse! Case Sent from not here

https://youtu.be/KeJHlsgz7cw “Throw out the radio and take the fiddle down from the wall.” — Andrew Nelson Lytle, Tennessee, 1930

At the Fern Ridge messabout I mentioned that I was reading Engines Afloat (vol I and II) by Stan Grayson and John K. suggested Internal Fire: The Internal-Combustion Engine 1673-1900 by C. Lyle

Just as an update, I am now working with a party to fix or at least reduce that "Trailer rot" problem. When we get the answers, I will no doubt offer free samples in exchange for testing and brief

I have read many books on wooden and fiberglass boat construction; fiberglass boatbuilding has many similarities to plywood/epoxy boatbuilding. Most of these books tell you what to do and how to do

The main boat trailer bugaboo is the square steel tube parts of the frame/tongue because it’s insides are pretty much impossible to wash or paint, let alone look at it to see what’s going on.

Sorry Rich, evidentially I Didn't read far enough !! Looks like several others have a better grip on this than I do so --- more insight needed. As I mentioned, a fishing store could give an idea

Hey Rich, how does rusty metal removal differ from in water galvanic action ?? Since you say the anodes won't work, do you have a substitute material to consider ?? If I recall, much of the pure

If you don't mind painting your trailer you might look at Petitt Rustlok. I applied it to an iron keel and going on three years with no rust. Good protection. The key is prepping and following the

Hmmm… my understanding is that electrolysis requires an electrolyte. Unless you left your trailer in the water it is not going to proceed. Salt crystals dried on could certainly form new electrolyte