Date   

Re: Oar Creep?

 

Making your own "Bolger" oarlocks in the Boathouse foundry sounds like a fun project! :o)

Duckworks sells bronze oarlocks with the forward horn and pin in line. They're designed to use D-shaped collars for "automatic" feathering and preset pitch. Not cheap:

https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/rs-do.htm

https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/dur-martinoli-parent.htm

A review:

https://preview.tinyurl.com/ybxtwexa

or

https://s3.amazonaws.com/duckbbs/hardware/oarlocks/douglas/Ash+Breeze+Article+11-05.pdf

On 5/17/2020 5:04 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
...
My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.
--
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Skepticism, like chastity, should not be relinquished too readily. (George Santayana)
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Flailing for a shallow alarm system

Electri-Cal
 

Mumm, I just now ordered what I HOPE will be the answer to hanging the boat up on stuff.  I did order one at $56.00 - so half the price of the Norcross unit.  First, no sounding alarm, figuring if i'm in problem water I need to be aware at all times.  I don't need a Fish finder, got my original and it works.  So, I now have a waterproof hi def. lighted, and battery powered pipe bore scope.  Dumb, huh !!   I can put this  in a smaller tube,  fixed at an angle up front, imbed in a solid Bolger mini bump attached as needed, or tape fix to the bottom to test first.  That gives me an led lighted plus filmable photo chip setup, in a smaller sensor package, facing forwardish to get a full depth of field, depending on water clarity.  This sensor is way smaller than any fish finder, and easier to seal in for a good view.  Anyway, I will have it in about 2 weeks, and be ready to do the rest of the story.  Having some pix of this lash up will be available soon as I get 'er done. 

Heres Hoping Folks, Keep 'er Tuned in ----  Porky Pig      ( not taking credit till it works, eh !! )


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Electri-Cal
 

In reviewing all the great data, I considered that someday I might like to remove the transducer, for a new model, stops working or ??  Cancelled the first order before shipping  so I'm now looking at you'alls posts again. It NEEDS o be a real depth finder to see logs, rocks, or ??   From Johns references, and u tube stuff it looks like I could just put a short pipe with a cap fixed to the hull bulkhead and partially remove the wood hull inside.  Looks like making it taller than the water level would be a good idea, since the bow is very shallow up to a couple feet back.  Will do some hunting on line and at Jerrys store, will update later.  I do have a Cabellas card too, betcha they have done this before, and I get the discount with the advice.

Be dooin' stuff fast, Summers here, and sunken logs are waiting near the shore ----    Cal


Re: Oar Creep?

Jove Lachman-Curl
 

Yes. Good point John. Those racing oarlocks might be a bit weird with round loom oars. They take a D or a squarish loom that flops from feathered to squared.
I’ve not tried them with round looms. I have a pair if you want any measurements.
-Jove

On May 17, 2020, at 7:15 PM, John Kohnen <@Jkohnen> wrote:

IIRC, racing shell oars don't have round looms. They, or the collars, are shaped so the oar flops into the feathered position on the recovery stroke, and then flops back on the pull stroke. Jove?

On 5/17/2020 6:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
Thanks Jove. Interesting reading and information. Those locks don’t appear to be that expensive either.
--
John <@Jkohnen>
Like all weak men he laid an exaggerated stress on not changing one's mind. (W. Somerset Maugham)


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Re: Oar Creep?

 

IIRC, racing shell oars don't have round looms. They, or the collars, are shaped so the oar flops into the feathered position on the recovery stroke, and then flops back on the pull stroke. Jove?

On 5/17/2020 6:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
Thanks Jove. Interesting reading and information. Those locks don’t appear to be that expensive either.
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Re: Oar Creep?

Joe Novello
 

Thanks Jove. Interesting reading and information. Those locks don’t appear to be that expensive either. 

Joe



On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 5:45 PM Jove Lachman-Curl <jovelc87@...> wrote:
I don’t have much experience with traditional oats, but I’ll offer my thoughts in case they help. My experience is almost all with racing oars.
The front horn is the pin for a strong light design. They are made of a hard smooth plastic, “leathers” are acetal and oarlock is nylon. And there is a “button” which is a collar on the leathers to push outboard against. The pin is 13mm stainless (1/2” and 7/16 common too). But A half inch bolt would do it as long as it was smooth in the loading area.
I’ve always thought good oarlocks could easily be made from wood or plastic with this basic layout. But racing ones are super cheap too. Like $20 or so, since rowers replace them as a wear item.
Typical pitch aft is 3-6 deg and pitch outboard 0-2 deg. I like 4-2.
The concept of mechanical procession might be in play with them walking onboard on you. Just a thought.
-Jove



On May 17, 2020, at 5:04 PM, Joe Novello <joenovello3@...> wrote:

Thanks John, I knew someone would know more about this than I.  I’m using tuna cord tightly wrapped and sealed with six coats of varnish.  

My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.  

Thanks again,

Joe


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:43 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft
leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but
supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate
most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat,
but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat
rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem)  Having
the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the
flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about
oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo
home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and
the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I
> built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out
> and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six
> inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4
> inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
>
> Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length
> or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars
> are 6 1/2'.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the
other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)



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--
Joe Novello

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Joe Novello


Re: Oar Creep?

Jove Lachman-Curl
 

I don’t have much experience with traditional oats, but I’ll offer my thoughts in case they help. My experience is almost all with racing oars.
The front horn is the pin for a strong light design. They are made of a hard smooth plastic, “leathers” are acetal and oarlock is nylon. And there is a “button” which is a collar on the leathers to push outboard against. The pin is 13mm stainless (1/2” and 7/16 common too). But A half inch bolt would do it as long as it was smooth in the loading area.
I’ve always thought good oarlocks could easily be made from wood or plastic with this basic layout. But racing ones are super cheap too. Like $20 or so, since rowers replace them as a wear item.
Typical pitch aft is 3-6 deg and pitch outboard 0-2 deg. I like 4-2.
The concept of mechanical procession might be in play with them walking onboard on you. Just a thought.
-Jove


On May 17, 2020, at 5:04 PM, Joe Novello <joenovello3@...> wrote:

Thanks John, I knew someone would know more about this than I.  I’m using tuna cord tightly wrapped and sealed with six coats of varnish.  

My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.  

Thanks again,

Joe


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:43 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft
leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but
supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate
most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat,
but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat
rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem)  Having
the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the
flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about
oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo
home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and
the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I
> built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out
> and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six
> inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4
> inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
>
> Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length
> or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars
> are 6 1/2'.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the
other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)



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Joe Novello


Re: Gotta Pay to Play !!

 

Mine's a 1B. Did you have to pay extra to get a through-hull transducer, Cal?

On 5/17/2020 4:59 PM, I wrote:
I've been using one of the older Hawkeye depthsounders in Lazy Jack, with a transom mount in the motorwell. Works fine. Mine only reads to about 200' but more is really mostly about entertainment, <g>, though it can be useful  for navigation, or DEEP sea fishing. Like every other depthsounder or fishfinder I've heard of, the Hawkeye doesn't read much less than 3'.
https://hawkeyeelectronics.com/collections/boat-mount
--
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Re: Oar Creep?

Joe Novello
 

Thanks John, I knew someone would know more about this than I.  I’m using tuna cord tightly wrapped and sealed with six coats of varnish.  

My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.  

Thanks again,

Joe


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:43 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft
leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but
supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate
most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat,
but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat
rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem)  Having
the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the
flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about
oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo
home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and
the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I
> built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out
> and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six
> inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4
> inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
>
> Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length
> or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars
> are 6 1/2'.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the
other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)



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Joe Novello


Re: Gotta Pay to Play !!

 

I've been using one of the older Hawkeye depthsounders in Lazy Jack, with a transom mount in the motorwell. Works fine. Mine only reads to about 200' but more is really mostly about entertainment, <g>, though it can be useful for navigation, or DEEP sea fishing. Like every other depthsounder or fishfinder I've heard of, the Hawkeye doesn't read much less than 3'.

https://hawkeyeelectronics.com/collections/boat-mount

On 5/17/2020 1:40 PM, Electri-Cal wrote:
I decided to go for the Norcross marine offered -- Hawkeye in dash model wirh real 2 inch hole- thru hull sensor.  The decision was partly on the 600 ft. depth for fun looking around, then the added temp sensor for more detail, and the 2B  upgraded model - new, not rebuilt, could have saved $20.00 but decided to do the whole thing.  Upgrades were depth added,  and better reading dial.  I can make a mounting for the cockpit dash pretty easy, and different alarms should keep me aware of problems quicker.
...
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Resistentialism: The theory that inanimate objects demonstrate hostile behavior toward us. (Coined by Paul Jennings from Latin res (thing) + French resister (to resist) + existentialism (a kind of philosophy))
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Re: Oar Creep?

 

What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat, but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem) Having the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
Hi Guys,
I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4 inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars are 6 1/2'.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
--
John <@Jkohnen>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)
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Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

 

Yesterday, on an overcast day looking down into still water from the docks, I didn't notice what what Talbot was talking about. Today I stopped at the ramp right next to the dam, and where the light shone through the waves I could see that the water has a green hue, not the usual mud color. Could see it in the shallows at the beach at Orchard Point too. Millions of tiny dots of green in the water. It's not just globs and weird blue things.

On 5/17/2020 2:49 PM, Case wrote:
Lakes over here get those too. Paulina has been loaded with it the last ten or more years.
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Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

Shelley Hoose
 

We were there yesterday, and it was completely gone.  We spoke with a guy whose dog was playing in the water next to the launch, and he says he goes there every day.  He saw the bloom two days ago, didn't let his dog in.  Went back yesterday, and it was totally gone.

That was just at the launch. We did not walk around the docks to assess it further.


Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

Case Turner
 

Lakes over here get those too. Paulina has been loaded with it the last ten or more years.

Sent from not here

On May 17, 2020, at 2:06 PM, John Kohnen <@Jkohnen> wrote:

At Richardson Park the infestation is just around the shoreline and doesn't extend out to the end of E Dock. Yet. I haven't ventured out into the lake yet to see if there are rafts of the stuff in open water.

I took a few photos. I don't know much about algae, but I think the green globs may be ordinary algae. Unpleasant, but harmless. The weird colored bits are more interesting. When I've seen blue-green algae before -- or what I thought was b-g algae -- it was _bright_ green. This stuff makes me see why they named it what they did. <g> See attachments.

Not all blue-green algae are toxic -- they sell some of it in health food stores -- but since They no longer test Fern Ridge I suppose we'll never know what this stuff is. <sigh> Don't let your dog get in the water, or go swimming yourself. Our kind of boating should be OK.

On 5/16/2020 3:21 PM, Rich G wrote:
We’re gonna have to get used to those blooms it looks like. So many lakes and reservoirs coming down with it. Not a pretty picture.
https://preview.tinyurl.com/ycm5wx8h

or

https://groups.io/g/Fernsail/topic/it_s_not_easy_being_green/74243836?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,74243836
--
John <@Jkohnen>
For what do we live, but to make sport for our neighbors, and laugh at them in our turn? (Jane Austen)



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<02-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
<03-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
<04-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
<05-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
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Dirt


Oar Creep?

Joe Novello
 

Hi Guys,

I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4 inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique. 

Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars are 6 1/2'. 

Thanks for any help you can provide.  

Joe



Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

 

At Richardson Park the infestation is just around the shoreline and doesn't extend out to the end of E Dock. Yet. I haven't ventured out into the lake yet to see if there are rafts of the stuff in open water.

I took a few photos. I don't know much about algae, but I think the green globs may be ordinary algae. Unpleasant, but harmless. The weird colored bits are more interesting. When I've seen blue-green algae before -- or what I thought was b-g algae -- it was _bright_ green. This stuff makes me see why they named it what they did. <g> See attachments.

Not all blue-green algae are toxic -- they sell some of it in health food stores -- but since They no longer test Fern Ridge I suppose we'll never know what this stuff is. <sigh> Don't let your dog get in the water, or go swimming yourself. Our kind of boating should be OK.

On 5/16/2020 3:21 PM, Rich G wrote:
We’re gonna have to get used to those blooms it looks like. So many lakes and reservoirs coming down with it. Not a pretty picture.

https://preview.tinyurl.com/ycm5wx8h

or

https://groups.io/g/Fernsail/topic/it_s_not_easy_being_green/74243836?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,74243836
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John <@Jkohnen>
For what do we live, but to make sport for our neighbors, and laugh at them in our turn? (Jane Austen)
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Gotta Pay to Play !!

Electri-Cal
 

I decided to go for the Norcross marine offered -- Hawkeye in dash model wirh real 2 inch hole- thru hull sensor.  The decision was partly on the 600 ft. depth for fun looking around, then the added temp sensor for more detail, and the 2B  upgraded model - new, not rebuilt, could have saved $20.00 but decided to do the whole thing.  Upgrades were depth added,  and better reading dial.  I can make a mounting for the cockpit dash pretty easy, and different alarms should keep me aware of problems quicker.

Overall, cheaper than even one of my two aftermarket props, or motor damage in water (like our coastal lakes) that' is really new to me..  Instillation looks to be a breeze, even in the garage.   A second front finder might  plot  lakes better to locate drop offs, or stick up structure before the rod gets hung in it.  Fishing the edge good, drifting into it, not so much. Last of all is the way thicker plywood bracing furthur up front  -- where no "puck" should go.

Two weeks, then hot doggers !! ---  Thanks again, Coots I liked the input a lot, -----  Cal


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Keith Korporaal
 

That’s very cool looking, Joe.  Heck, with scenery like that, no rain, eggs & hot cakes, well, life is good!


From: oregoncoots@groups.io <oregoncoots@groups.io> on behalf of Joe Novello <joenovello3@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 8:54:47 AM
To: oregoncoots@groups.io <oregoncoots@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [oregoncoots] Depth finder info. needed
 
Here’s mine in action this morning. Don’t let the image fool you - they weren’t liking what I had to offer. Had to eat Hot cakes and eggs for my breakfast. 

On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 6:40 AM Electri-Cal <calboats@...> wrote:
ALL RIGHT Coots, a world of info.  love that  !!    I checked the current installation this morning, and the transducer, --- which is somewhat spotty over trolling speeds now, due to electrical motor static, --- is packaged with too many wires to spend time on it.   So, the tiime effective option is a hawkeye with their single hole dedicated forward sensor unit.  Easy to mount the small dial end close to line of sight on the dash.  The transducerthen is further from the EV system and only forward. that leaves the fish finder alone in the stern.  Mount  it where the trailer bunks miss the sensor.  That should do it, not as low cost, but better than hours rebraiding all the stuff that  I still use for real fishing. 

Thanks to all who replied ___  Cal 

--
Joe Novello


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Joe Novello
 

Here’s mine in action this morning. Don’t let the image fool you - they weren’t liking what I had to offer. Had to eat Hot cakes and eggs for my breakfast. 

On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 6:40 AM Electri-Cal <calboats@...> wrote:
ALL RIGHT Coots, a world of info.  love that  !!    I checked the current installation this morning, and the transducer, --- which is somewhat spotty over trolling speeds now, due to electrical motor static, --- is packaged with too many wires to spend time on it.   So, the tiime effective option is a hawkeye with their single hole dedicated forward sensor unit.  Easy to mount the small dial end close to line of sight on the dash.  The transducerthen is further from the EV system and only forward. that leaves the fish finder alone in the stern.  Mount  it where the trailer bunks miss the sensor.  That should do it, not as low cost, but better than hours rebraiding all the stuff that  I still use for real fishing. 

Thanks to all who replied ___  Cal 

--
Joe Novello


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Electri-Cal
 

ALL RIGHT Coots, a world of info.  love that  !!    I checked the current installation this morning, and the transducer, --- which is somewhat spotty over trolling speeds now, due to electrical motor static, --- is packaged with too many wires to spend time on it.   So, the tiime effective option is a hawkeye with their single hole dedicated forward sensor unit.  Easy to mount the small dial end close to line of sight on the dash.  The transducerthen is further from the EV system and only forward. that leaves the fish finder alone in the stern.  Mount  it where the trailer bunks miss the sensor.  That should do it, not as low cost, but better than hours rebraiding all the stuff that  I still use for real fishing. 

Thanks to all who replied ___  Cal