Date   

Re: Oar Creep?

Jove Lachman-Curl
 

I don’t have much experience with traditional oats, but I’ll offer my thoughts in case they help. My experience is almost all with racing oars.
The front horn is the pin for a strong light design. They are made of a hard smooth plastic, “leathers” are acetal and oarlock is nylon. And there is a “button” which is a collar on the leathers to push outboard against. The pin is 13mm stainless (1/2” and 7/16 common too). But A half inch bolt would do it as long as it was smooth in the loading area.
I’ve always thought good oarlocks could easily be made from wood or plastic with this basic layout. But racing ones are super cheap too. Like $20 or so, since rowers replace them as a wear item.
Typical pitch aft is 3-6 deg and pitch outboard 0-2 deg. I like 4-2.
The concept of mechanical procession might be in play with them walking onboard on you. Just a thought.
-Jove


On May 17, 2020, at 5:04 PM, Joe Novello <joenovello3@...> wrote:

Thanks John, I knew someone would know more about this than I.  I’m using tuna cord tightly wrapped and sealed with six coats of varnish.  

My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.  

Thanks again,

Joe


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:43 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft
leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but
supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate
most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat,
but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat
rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem)  Having
the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the
flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about
oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo
home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and
the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I
> built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out
> and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six
> inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4
> inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
>
> Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length
> or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars
> are 6 1/2'.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the
other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)



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Re: Gotta Pay to Play !!

 

Mine's a 1B. Did you have to pay extra to get a through-hull transducer, Cal?

On 5/17/2020 4:59 PM, I wrote:
I've been using one of the older Hawkeye depthsounders in Lazy Jack, with a transom mount in the motorwell. Works fine. Mine only reads to about 200' but more is really mostly about entertainment, <g>, though it can be useful  for navigation, or DEEP sea fishing. Like every other depthsounder or fishfinder I've heard of, the Hawkeye doesn't read much less than 3'.
https://hawkeyeelectronics.com/collections/boat-mount
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Re: Oar Creep?

Joe Novello
 

Thanks John, I knew someone would know more about this than I.  I’m using tuna cord tightly wrapped and sealed with six coats of varnish.  

My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.  

Thanks again,

Joe


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:43 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft
leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but
supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate
most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat,
but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat
rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem)  Having
the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the
flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about
oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo
home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and
the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I
> built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out
> and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six
> inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4
> inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
>
> Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length
> or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars
> are 6 1/2'.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the
other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)



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Joe Novello


Re: Gotta Pay to Play !!

 

I've been using one of the older Hawkeye depthsounders in Lazy Jack, with a transom mount in the motorwell. Works fine. Mine only reads to about 200' but more is really mostly about entertainment, <g>, though it can be useful for navigation, or DEEP sea fishing. Like every other depthsounder or fishfinder I've heard of, the Hawkeye doesn't read much less than 3'.

https://hawkeyeelectronics.com/collections/boat-mount

On 5/17/2020 1:40 PM, Electri-Cal wrote:
I decided to go for the Norcross marine offered -- Hawkeye in dash model wirh real 2 inch hole- thru hull sensor.  The decision was partly on the 600 ft. depth for fun looking around, then the added temp sensor for more detail, and the 2B  upgraded model - new, not rebuilt, could have saved $20.00 but decided to do the whole thing.  Upgrades were depth added,  and better reading dial.  I can make a mounting for the cockpit dash pretty easy, and different alarms should keep me aware of problems quicker.
...
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Re: Oar Creep?

 

What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat, but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem) Having the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
Hi Guys,
I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4 inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars are 6 1/2'.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
--
John <@Jkohnen>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)
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Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

 

Yesterday, on an overcast day looking down into still water from the docks, I didn't notice what what Talbot was talking about. Today I stopped at the ramp right next to the dam, and where the light shone through the waves I could see that the water has a green hue, not the usual mud color. Could see it in the shallows at the beach at Orchard Point too. Millions of tiny dots of green in the water. It's not just globs and weird blue things.

On 5/17/2020 2:49 PM, Case wrote:
Lakes over here get those too. Paulina has been loaded with it the last ten or more years.
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Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

Shelley Hoose
 

We were there yesterday, and it was completely gone.  We spoke with a guy whose dog was playing in the water next to the launch, and he says he goes there every day.  He saw the bloom two days ago, didn't let his dog in.  Went back yesterday, and it was totally gone.

That was just at the launch. We did not walk around the docks to assess it further.


Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

Case Turner
 

Lakes over here get those too. Paulina has been loaded with it the last ten or more years.

Sent from not here

On May 17, 2020, at 2:06 PM, John Kohnen <@Jkohnen> wrote:

At Richardson Park the infestation is just around the shoreline and doesn't extend out to the end of E Dock. Yet. I haven't ventured out into the lake yet to see if there are rafts of the stuff in open water.

I took a few photos. I don't know much about algae, but I think the green globs may be ordinary algae. Unpleasant, but harmless. The weird colored bits are more interesting. When I've seen blue-green algae before -- or what I thought was b-g algae -- it was _bright_ green. This stuff makes me see why they named it what they did. <g> See attachments.

Not all blue-green algae are toxic -- they sell some of it in health food stores -- but since They no longer test Fern Ridge I suppose we'll never know what this stuff is. <sigh> Don't let your dog get in the water, or go swimming yourself. Our kind of boating should be OK.

On 5/16/2020 3:21 PM, Rich G wrote:
We’re gonna have to get used to those blooms it looks like. So many lakes and reservoirs coming down with it. Not a pretty picture.
https://preview.tinyurl.com/ycm5wx8h

or

https://groups.io/g/Fernsail/topic/it_s_not_easy_being_green/74243836?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,74243836
--
John <@Jkohnen>
For what do we live, but to make sport for our neighbors, and laugh at them in our turn? (Jane Austen)



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<02-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
<03-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
<04-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
<05-FernRidgeAlgae.jpg>
--
Dirt


Oar Creep?

Joe Novello
 

Hi Guys,

I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4 inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique. 

Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars are 6 1/2'. 

Thanks for any help you can provide.  

Joe



Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

 

At Richardson Park the infestation is just around the shoreline and doesn't extend out to the end of E Dock. Yet. I haven't ventured out into the lake yet to see if there are rafts of the stuff in open water.

I took a few photos. I don't know much about algae, but I think the green globs may be ordinary algae. Unpleasant, but harmless. The weird colored bits are more interesting. When I've seen blue-green algae before -- or what I thought was b-g algae -- it was _bright_ green. This stuff makes me see why they named it what they did. <g> See attachments.

Not all blue-green algae are toxic -- they sell some of it in health food stores -- but since They no longer test Fern Ridge I suppose we'll never know what this stuff is. <sigh> Don't let your dog get in the water, or go swimming yourself. Our kind of boating should be OK.

On 5/16/2020 3:21 PM, Rich G wrote:
We’re gonna have to get used to those blooms it looks like. So many lakes and reservoirs coming down with it. Not a pretty picture.

https://preview.tinyurl.com/ycm5wx8h

or

https://groups.io/g/Fernsail/topic/it_s_not_easy_being_green/74243836?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,74243836
--
John <@Jkohnen>
For what do we live, but to make sport for our neighbors, and laugh at them in our turn? (Jane Austen)
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Gotta Pay to Play !!

Electri-Cal
 

I decided to go for the Norcross marine offered -- Hawkeye in dash model wirh real 2 inch hole- thru hull sensor.  The decision was partly on the 600 ft. depth for fun looking around, then the added temp sensor for more detail, and the 2B  upgraded model - new, not rebuilt, could have saved $20.00 but decided to do the whole thing.  Upgrades were depth added,  and better reading dial.  I can make a mounting for the cockpit dash pretty easy, and different alarms should keep me aware of problems quicker.

Overall, cheaper than even one of my two aftermarket props, or motor damage in water (like our coastal lakes) that' is really new to me..  Instillation looks to be a breeze, even in the garage.   A second front finder might  plot  lakes better to locate drop offs, or stick up structure before the rod gets hung in it.  Fishing the edge good, drifting into it, not so much. Last of all is the way thicker plywood bracing furthur up front  -- where no "puck" should go.

Two weeks, then hot doggers !! ---  Thanks again, Coots I liked the input a lot, -----  Cal


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Keith Korporaal
 

That’s very cool looking, Joe.  Heck, with scenery like that, no rain, eggs & hot cakes, well, life is good!


From: oregoncoots@groups.io <oregoncoots@groups.io> on behalf of Joe Novello <joenovello3@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 8:54:47 AM
To: oregoncoots@groups.io <oregoncoots@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [oregoncoots] Depth finder info. needed
 
Here’s mine in action this morning. Don’t let the image fool you - they weren’t liking what I had to offer. Had to eat Hot cakes and eggs for my breakfast. 

On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 6:40 AM Electri-Cal <calboats@...> wrote:
ALL RIGHT Coots, a world of info.  love that  !!    I checked the current installation this morning, and the transducer, --- which is somewhat spotty over trolling speeds now, due to electrical motor static, --- is packaged with too many wires to spend time on it.   So, the tiime effective option is a hawkeye with their single hole dedicated forward sensor unit.  Easy to mount the small dial end close to line of sight on the dash.  The transducerthen is further from the EV system and only forward. that leaves the fish finder alone in the stern.  Mount  it where the trailer bunks miss the sensor.  That should do it, not as low cost, but better than hours rebraiding all the stuff that  I still use for real fishing. 

Thanks to all who replied ___  Cal 

--
Joe Novello


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Joe Novello
 

Here’s mine in action this morning. Don’t let the image fool you - they weren’t liking what I had to offer. Had to eat Hot cakes and eggs for my breakfast. 

On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 6:40 AM Electri-Cal <calboats@...> wrote:
ALL RIGHT Coots, a world of info.  love that  !!    I checked the current installation this morning, and the transducer, --- which is somewhat spotty over trolling speeds now, due to electrical motor static, --- is packaged with too many wires to spend time on it.   So, the tiime effective option is a hawkeye with their single hole dedicated forward sensor unit.  Easy to mount the small dial end close to line of sight on the dash.  The transducerthen is further from the EV system and only forward. that leaves the fish finder alone in the stern.  Mount  it where the trailer bunks miss the sensor.  That should do it, not as low cost, but better than hours rebraiding all the stuff that  I still use for real fishing. 

Thanks to all who replied ___  Cal 

--
Joe Novello


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Electri-Cal
 

ALL RIGHT Coots, a world of info.  love that  !!    I checked the current installation this morning, and the transducer, --- which is somewhat spotty over trolling speeds now, due to electrical motor static, --- is packaged with too many wires to spend time on it.   So, the tiime effective option is a hawkeye with their single hole dedicated forward sensor unit.  Easy to mount the small dial end close to line of sight on the dash.  The transducerthen is further from the EV system and only forward. that leaves the fish finder alone in the stern.  Mount  it where the trailer bunks miss the sensor.  That should do it, not as low cost, but better than hours rebraiding all the stuff that  I still use for real fishing. 

Thanks to all who replied ___  Cal 


Re: Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

Richard Green
 

We’re gonna have to get used to those blooms it looks like. So many lakes and reservoirs coming down with it. Not a pretty picture.

Rich

On May 16, 2020, at 1:11 PM, John Kohnen <@Jkohnen> wrote:

"Fern Ridge Lake has the most spectacular algae bloom I’ve ever seen. Pretty much wall to wall. Like a scene from a horror movie. I sometimes regret moving from a Day Sailer to a keelboat, but not today. I want to be as far from the water as possible." (Talbot B)

https://preview.tinyurl.com/ycm5wx8h

or

https://groups.io/g/Fernsail/topic/it_s_not_easy_being_green/74243836?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,74243836

Gonna go look for myself...

--
John <@Jkohnen>
The sea washes off all the woes of men. (Joshua Slocum)


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Re: Depth finder info. needed

 

1) One often has to send a transom mount transducer to the manufacturer to exchange it for a through-hull one.

2) A through-hull transducer can interfere with getting a boat on or off its trailer.

3) Some people don't like drilling a hole in their boat. <g>

On 5/15/2020 10:06 PM, Case wrote:
Drill a hole in the bottom. Use a they hull transducer some sikaflex or boat life adhesive and be done with it. No weird boxes, oil, water, witches concoctions to deal with. No interference, no fuss.
--
John <@Jkohnen>
Usually, terrible things that are done with the excuse that progress requires them are not really progress at all, but just terrible things. (Russell Baker)
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Re: Depth finder info. needed

 

Good old PVC pipe. What would we do without it? <g>

On 5/15/2020 3:41 PM, Joe Novello wrote:
Here is my portable fish/depth finder for my Elegant Punt and Good Girl.
The fish think I’m cheating.
I bedded the transducer on my Catalina 25 in a big blob of silicone inside a piece of PVC inside the boat. So far it has been good down to 200 feet.
...
--
John <@Jkohnen>
We should not be simply fighting evil in the name of good, but struggling against the certainties of people who claim always to know where good and evil are to be found. (Tzvetan Todorov)
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Algae Bloom at Fern Ridge

 

"Fern Ridge Lake has the most spectacular algae bloom I’ve ever seen. Pretty much wall to wall. Like a scene from a horror movie. I sometimes regret moving from a Day Sailer to a keelboat, but not today. I want to be as far from the water as possible." (Talbot B)

https://preview.tinyurl.com/ycm5wx8h

or

https://groups.io/g/Fernsail/topic/it_s_not_easy_being_green/74243836?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,74243836

Gonna go look for myself...

--
John <@Jkohnen>
The sea washes off all the woes of men. (Joshua Slocum)


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Re: Depth finder info. needed

Case Turner
 

Drill a hole in the bottom. Use a they hull transducer some sikaflex or boat life adhesive and be done with it. No weird boxes, oil, water, witches concoctions to deal with. No interference, no fuss.

Case

Sent from not here

On May 15, 2020, at 9:39 PM, Gerard Mittelstaedt <MITTEL48@...> wrote:


My sister had a large ferro cement hulled staysail schooner (well, large to my eyes)
It had a sonar which was mounted in a tube.  The sonar head could be lowered down
through the tube to look forward and positioned at various angles.
Much of the time it was raised above the bottom of the tube - which was flush to the
bottom of the boat.  This was good as one time the boat hit one of those huge logs which
float under the water and we could hear it rolling as the long keel proceeded over it
(no damage to the ferro cement keel) and since the sonar head was retracted
into the tube (not protruding down) it was not damaged. 
  One good use was coming in to a harbor/bay down an unmarked channel. 
The sonar showed the deep water and we had an easy go of it.
  Also, particularly when anchored down it was interesting seeing some rather
large fish below... and being impatient when none seemed to care at all for our bait.

This was in the San Juan Islands and also into Nanaimo and on to Princess Louisa
inlet.

Gerard Mittelstaedt
sadly now in south Texas
not in the glorious NW


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 5:41 PM Joe Novello <joenovello3@...> wrote:
<IMG_2013.jpg>


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 3:03 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
I'd been told that you should never run a depthfinder with the
transducer out of the water, because they don't like that and might stop
working in protest, but the guy in the Hawkeye video doesn't seem the
least bit concerned. <shrug> The baggy full of water trick looks like a
good way to test different locations in the boat, if it's fiberglass or
aluminum, or even to see if the transducer will work through a thin
plywood bottom.

https://youtu.be/22SzRXa21hg

With the low water in the local Mudhole this year maybe I should add a
depthfinder to Tuffy's equipment before putting her in the water. <g>

On 5/15/2020 7:31 AM, john a wrote:
> Just a couple of notes to add to John's comments.  My experience with
> water boxes is with fiberglass hulls, including bigger boats with
> substantial hull thickness.
>
> I have never had a problem with a water box mounted transducer except
> with one of those cheap sounders with the small round dial.  A quality
> 'fish finder' type works fine and is good for the depths we normally run
> in around here.  Depth range should not be an issue, but if you want
> 60-100 fathom range you need to pay attention to the transducer power
> output and frequency.
>
> A good water box can be made from a plastic pipe fitting with a screw
> cap.  What ever you use be sure to have a way to get the water box full
> and vent out all the air so it can't get bubbles when the boat moves about.
>
> John's method sounds fine and if you are concerned about strength
> laminate in some layers of fiberglass cloth in your 'epoxy plug'.  Just
> be sure to fully saturate the cloth.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
The man who is always waving the flag usually waives what it stands for.
(Laurence J. Peter)


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--
Gerard Mittelstaedt  -- mittel48@...
McAllen, Texas
USA


Re: Depth finder info. needed

Gerard Mittelstaedt
 

My sister had a large ferro cement hulled staysail schooner (well, large to my eyes)
It had a sonar which was mounted in a tube.  The sonar head could be lowered down
through the tube to look forward and positioned at various angles.
Much of the time it was raised above the bottom of the tube - which was flush to the
bottom of the boat.  This was good as one time the boat hit one of those huge logs which
float under the water and we could hear it rolling as the long keel proceeded over it
(no damage to the ferro cement keel) and since the sonar head was retracted
into the tube (not protruding down) it was not damaged. 
  One good use was coming in to a harbor/bay down an unmarked channel. 
The sonar showed the deep water and we had an easy go of it.
  Also, particularly when anchored down it was interesting seeing some rather
large fish below... and being impatient when none seemed to care at all for our bait.

This was in the San Juan Islands and also into Nanaimo and on to Princess Louisa
inlet.

Gerard Mittelstaedt
sadly now in south Texas
not in the glorious NW


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 5:41 PM Joe Novello <joenovello3@...> wrote:


On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 3:03 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
I'd been told that you should never run a depthfinder with the
transducer out of the water, because they don't like that and might stop
working in protest, but the guy in the Hawkeye video doesn't seem the
least bit concerned. <shrug> The baggy full of water trick looks like a
good way to test different locations in the boat, if it's fiberglass or
aluminum, or even to see if the transducer will work through a thin
plywood bottom.

https://youtu.be/22SzRXa21hg

With the low water in the local Mudhole this year maybe I should add a
depthfinder to Tuffy's equipment before putting her in the water. <g>

On 5/15/2020 7:31 AM, john a wrote:
> Just a couple of notes to add to John's comments.  My experience with
> water boxes is with fiberglass hulls, including bigger boats with
> substantial hull thickness.
>
> I have never had a problem with a water box mounted transducer except
> with one of those cheap sounders with the small round dial.  A quality
> 'fish finder' type works fine and is good for the depths we normally run
> in around here.  Depth range should not be an issue, but if you want
> 60-100 fathom range you need to pay attention to the transducer power
> output and frequency.
>
> A good water box can be made from a plastic pipe fitting with a screw
> cap.  What ever you use be sure to have a way to get the water box full
> and vent out all the air so it can't get bubbles when the boat moves about.
>
> John's method sounds fine and if you are concerned about strength
> laminate in some layers of fiberglass cloth in your 'epoxy plug'.  Just
> be sure to fully saturate the cloth.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
The man who is always waving the flag usually waives what it stands for.
(Laurence J. Peter)


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--
Joe Novello



--
Gerard Mittelstaedt  -- mittel48@...
McAllen, Texas
USA