Re: Oar Creep?


Joe Novello
 

Thanks Jove. Interesting reading and information. Those locks don’t appear to be that expensive either. 

Joe



On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 5:45 PM Jove Lachman-Curl <jovelc87@...> wrote:
I don’t have much experience with traditional oats, but I’ll offer my thoughts in case they help. My experience is almost all with racing oars.
The front horn is the pin for a strong light design. They are made of a hard smooth plastic, “leathers” are acetal and oarlock is nylon. And there is a “button” which is a collar on the leathers to push outboard against. The pin is 13mm stainless (1/2” and 7/16 common too). But A half inch bolt would do it as long as it was smooth in the loading area.
I’ve always thought good oarlocks could easily be made from wood or plastic with this basic layout. But racing ones are super cheap too. Like $20 or so, since rowers replace them as a wear item.
Typical pitch aft is 3-6 deg and pitch outboard 0-2 deg. I like 4-2.
The concept of mechanical procession might be in play with them walking onboard on you. Just a thought.
-Jove



On May 17, 2020, at 5:04 PM, Joe Novello <joenovello3@...> wrote:

Thanks John, I knew someone would know more about this than I.  I’m using tuna cord tightly wrapped and sealed with six coats of varnish.  

My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.  

Thanks again,

Joe


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:43 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft
leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but
supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate
most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat,
but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat
rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem)  Having
the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the
flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about
oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo
home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and
the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I
> built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out
> and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six
> inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4
> inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
>
> Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length
> or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars
> are 6 1/2'.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.

--
John <jkohnen@...>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the
other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)



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Joe Novello

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Joe Novello

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