Re: Oar Creep?

Joe Novello

Thanks John, I knew someone would know more about this than I.  I’m using tuna cord tightly wrapped and sealed with six coats of varnish.  

My sockets are slightly out of perpendicular, maybe 12 degrees.  I like the idea of the pin in line with the forward horn.  I now have food for thought and more directions to play.  Maybe we can forge some of our own oarlocks with the design described by Bolger with our new foundry.  

Thanks again,


On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 4:43 PM John Kohnen <jkohnen@...> wrote:
What are you using for "leathers" on the oars? I've noticed that soft
leathering seems more prone to creeping. I haven't tried them, but
supposedly oarlocks with the forward horn in line with the pin eliminate
most oar creep. (I guess I did try them once, on Bob M's Whilly Boat,
but it was a brief outing, so I can't give a good review -- the boat
rowed like a dream, and I don't recall an oar walking problem)  Having
the oarlock sockets perpendicular to the water, not parallel to the
flared sides, also helps. Of course Bolger had something to say about
oarlocks. See attachments. IIRC, he also had a plan for some el cheapo
home fabricated oarlocks with the pin in line with the horn -- one and
the same, in fact, in one of his books...

On 5/17/2020 2:21 PM, Toledo Joe wrote:
> Hi Guys,
> I'm hoping to garner information from your collective knowledge.  I
> built some new oars for my elegant punt recently. Today I tried them out
> and as I was rowing they repeatedly crept up in the oarlocks about six
> inches, then settled there. The trouble is they then overlapped about 4
> inches at the handles and I had to use the cross oars rowing technique.
> Do any of you know why that might be happening?  I'm suspecting length
> or balance may be incorrect. The beam of the boat is 42 inches, the oars
> are 6 1/2'.
> Thanks for any help you can provide.

John <jkohnen@...>
You can only protect your liberties in this world by protecting the
other man's freedom. (Clarence Darrow)

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Joe Novello

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