Re: Glue, caulk, Strip Planking on small craft, Some Observations
Scraping is the best way to get rid of that nasty polyurthane foam. :ob A good way to handle squeeze-out, drips and sags of any goo. Add heat when scraping epoxy.toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Even though Katydidn't is short and fat, the pram bow should make the planks go on easily. No twist to meet a pointy bow. Lofting a boat before making the molds ensures that the planks/strips will lie smoothly with no unexpected sharp bends.
Paul Gartside recommends putting on the first strip so it lies fair, with no edge set. Then working up and down from that, and not being concerned if the strips run out at the sheer, or run into each other at the keel. Of course he likes paint too. <g>
But you're absolutely right that going with cheap materials often leads to more work. Katydidn't is so small that even using the best stuff won't cost too many arms and legs. But cutting strips is awfully wasteful! Every 1/4" strip uses up 3/8" of wood, with a typical tablesaw blade.
PL Premium is like Gorilla Glue with cheap fillers added. It sure works better than the unthickened stuff! And sure is cheaper. But for strip planking I think it's too thick. Something like Titebond II or III is easy to apply and will squeeze out of the joint between strips without heavy clamping. You can wipe of squeezeout with a damp cloth.
On 1/10/2020 5:57 PM, Electri-Cal wrote:
I have had the "black hand of a Gorilla " too often, gloves or not it's no fun. The foaming sucks to sand off, mask required !!! ...
If animals could speak, the dog would be a blundering outspoken fellow; but the cat would have the rare grace of never saying a word too much. (Mark Twain)