Topics

New needle threader

Ceil J
 

I have posted here and there about my frustration with the new needle threader.  My old one worked all the time but the new one only worked off and on (mostly on but not always).  If you had this experience too, this might be the solution. 
I went to my dealer today and he discovered that my needle didn't go fully into the up position.  It seems that my old needle threader must have been adjusted at the factory to accommodate this.  But when the new needle threader was put on, it expected to always find my needle in the highest position, and when it wasn't there, didn't work.  So it wasn't a problem with the new needle threader but with how my machine was initially set at the factory.  Now the needle up position has been adjusted to be at the top position (when doing a up/down).  So if you're having a needle threader problem, check to see if when you do a "up/down" if the needle can still be moved a tad higher by the manual dial.  If so, your dealer should adjust it.
I hope this helps someone and doesn't bore others too much.  I learned so much at this trip to my dealers and will share them bit by bit so as not to be too long and so that the topics can be found if needed.  I will probably put these on FB too so sorry for those who are in both locations.
My dealer is a gem but I'm afraid he's overworked.  So many come to him to have their machines cleaned and fixed, so many call for advice.  He has a great reputation and following.  I spent two hours there today and his patience and helpfulness, willingness to educate me about my machine, and the fact that he would not accept payment for working on my machine today, left me feeling better about humanity but guilty too for contributing to his work load. 
Ceil

Lylian Jettar
 

Re needle threader I have the same problem as you Ceil.It used to work ok before the update and I noticed myself that the needle needs to go higher. I told my dealer that Robeka is going for service when I go overseas in June. Until then manual needle threading


On Thu, 26 Apr 2018 9:38 AM Ceil J <cjancola@...> wrote:
I have posted here and there about my frustration with the new needle threader.  My old one worked all the time but the new one only worked off and on (mostly on but not always).  If you had this experience too, this might be the solution. 
I went to my dealer today and he discovered that my needle didn't go fully into the up position.  It seems that my old needle threader must have been adjusted at the factory to accommodate this.  But when the new needle threader was put on, it expected to always find my needle in the highest position, and when it wasn't there, didn't work.  So it wasn't a problem with the new needle threader but with how my machine was initially set at the factory.  Now the needle up position has been adjusted to be at the top position (when doing a up/down).  So if you're having a needle threader problem, check to see if when you do a "up/down" if the needle can still be moved a tad higher by the manual dial.  If so, your dealer should adjust it.
I hope this helps someone and doesn't bore others too much.  I learned so much at this trip to my dealers and will share them bit by bit so as not to be too long and so that the topics can be found if needed.  I will probably put these on FB too so sorry for those who are in both locations.
My dealer is a gem but I'm afraid he's overworked.  So many come to him to have their machines cleaned and fixed, so many call for advice.  He has a great reputation and following.  I spent two hours there today and his patience and helpfulness, willingness to educate me about my machine, and the fact that he would not accept payment for working on my machine today, left me feeling better about humanity but guilty too for contributing to his work load. 
Ceil

CynthiaRunsWithScissors
 

I am having an issue with my new needle threader also. My 15000 is repaired and working, however, it threads red needles perfectly every time, but will not thread blue needles. That's really when I need it - when I embroider. I will have to return to Fairfax to see if they can adjust it. I haven't tried with purple needles yet, but I will before I take it back in. 

Cynthia in sunny (finally) Virginia

Ceil J
 

Lylian,
I hope this helps.  My dealer is a top Janome seller/repair person and he'll let Janome know what happened but you may want to give your dealer help here as mine seemed to work before he did the needle up/down bit which was the key to finding out that it wasn't the needle threader but the needle's up position.  I hope it works out for you. 
Ceil

cas <cassweet@...>
 

That’s good information.  I’ve been happy with my updated needle threader which has worked almost every time. I still end up threading embroidery thread manually after a few successful color changes.  It’s like my machine loses it’s mind after a while.  J  Luckily I don’t embroider as much as I use cotton quilting thread or poly sewing thread. 

 

Jim, can that position change by sewing, can we change the alignment out so the needle doesn’t go all the way up?  Sometimes I sew through some really heavy seams and wondered about that.

Cas

jan shaw
 

Ceil;
Thanks for posting this as I have a friend with the same problem.  Just wondering, did you get the embroidery issue of no bobbin thread on the back/underside resolved?
jan

Ceil J
 

Cynthia,
I tried to figure out when and why it wasn't working as it seemed so totally random but it turns out that it was never a matter of the needle (11 and up) or the thread I was using, the brand or the color, but it turned out that it was the fact that the needle up/down was not adjusted to be in the very top position.  Luckily, I have a very gifted dealer who figured this out.  It turns out that it was just a tiny bit off but enough that it couldn't always find that needle opening. 
Good luck with yours I hope this helps you.
Ceil

onlinesewing@...
 

The needle bar, which is the piece that holds the needle clamp and drives the needle through the fabric, is held in place by a set screw. In normal operation it never moves out of position, but a needle strike on something hard, like the needle plate, can cause it to be forced up slightly. The machine would still stop in the highest position, but the needle bar would be a bit higher than it should, which could cause problems with the threader. This rarely happens, though I did have a customer once who bent the needle bar on a 1600P high speed quilting machine. It was not a fun job to replace it!

Moving the bar the other way, so it doesn't go all the way up, can potentially happen if you are sewing on fabric that grabs the needle and won't let it go up easily. This has to be really sticky stuff, like glued-on sequins and the like. Again this is very rare.

The actual position of the needle bar is controlled by a sensor that breaks a light beam when the needle bar is at its highest. Like most of the sensors, it can be adjusted to stop the bar a bit higher or a bit lower. If you think yours is out of adjustment, it's a simple fix that your dealer can make.

Ceil J
 

I just want to add that my dealer mentioned that tightening the needle too tight can cause a rotation which can knock things out of alignment too.
Ceil

Ceil J
 

Jan,
My tension is now fine.  My dealer made an adjustment to the top tension after checking to ensure that the tension motor wasn't wearing out.  (The motor was fine but it can wear out and cause tension issues.)  He had the top of the machine off and was doing things in the computer area of the machine too and I'm not sure which of those two took care of the problem.  Also, as Jim mentioned not too long ago, he said that many tension problems are caused by a very tiny speck of lint that gets caught in the bobbin case spring.  I thought it was a spring on the right side of the bobbin case and this seemed fine to me, but he showed me that it's on the left side and he took a pin and cleaned it by swiping to the left.  He said this is a very common cause of tension problems.  As far as the bobbin cases go, he told me to use the red one unless there's a problem but feel free to adjust the yellow dot case as needed for bobbin thread that doesn't work with the red dot case (after checking for lint).  He said all the bobbin cases are the same, only the tension governed by the screw varies.  I cannot find a way to post a photo here (I keep getting a message saying I don't have permission) or I'd try to post a photo showing where to clean the bottom bobbin.  Once it embroidered perfectly with a size 11 needle and 60 wt thread, it seemed to be solved but I'm not 100% sure which solution was the one that worked.  I was there for two hours and we covered a number of things which I'm trying to spill out before they're gone from my brain.  If I have more insights, I'll let you know.
Ceil

Sue Raabe
 

I’ll try seeing if the needle will go any higher by turning the wheel.  I have already checked, and the needle is inserted as far as it will go, and I’m using a purple tip needle as suggested by my dealer.  With the old one, I just had to leave a little tail instead of using the cutter, and it worked every time. It worked when I first brought it home, but one day it just didn’t anymore.  I tried different threads, different spool holders and rethreading the machine.  It isn’t the trip to the dealer that’s a problem, but getting it in and out of the house!  The rolling case from my 12000 is too small, and it’s almost impossible to lift and carry.  Oh to be young and strong again!  Thanks to everyone for solutions that don’t involve transporting my machine🙂. 
Sue Raabe   susies.stitches@...

Ceil J
 

Sue,
Is your problem with the new needle threader?  Again, what happened with mine, my dealer believes, is that the needle wasn't adjusted to be all the way up at the factory, just missed it by a bit and then the original needle threader (which worked all the time) was adjusted at the factory to work with that position.  When the new needle threader was put on, the update program that my dealer installed set the threader to thread the needle when it was at the highest position (as the first threader should have been).  So sometimes the machine stopped with the needle all the way up at the top, but depending on what I was doing, sometimes it stopped at what it thought was the highest position the machine was set to achieve.  I hope that makes sense.  That's why whatever combination of needles and threads never mattered and why it was driving me crazy trying to figure out what was going on.
When I take my machine to the dealer, I strip it down to the bare bones as he has all the other parts. That makes it more portable but I have to admit that I have someone that puts it in my car and my dealer insists on coming out to the car to bring it in for me. 
Also my dealer checked it with a size 11 needle and 40 wt thread.  The program they use to adjust it tests it in the left needle position.  Make sure your dealer tests it in front of you in the middle position and does an up/down needle in both positions before proclaiming it fixed.  Mine worked perfectly at the dealer until we did an up/down and discovered what the real problem was!
Hope this helps.
Ceil

Sue Raabe
 

Thanks Ceil,
I understood some of what you said, and it seems like I’ll have to take it in.  I came across a rolling case from one of my earlier machines, and I’ll see if it’s big enough.  It looks tall enough, but not that wide. I’m trying to hold off buying one till my dealer has his tent sale this summer.  I use the Tutto from my 12000 for the S9, and the one from my Old Viking D1 for the 3160.  I can’t believe I’ve had 4 Janome’s, and still have 3 of them.  Took me long enough to realize they’re the perfect machines for me.  The needle threader is the first thing that hasn't been user error.  Even then, it puts up with a lot before it tells me to rethread!  I’ll take a copy of your explanation with me so my dealer can read your explanation. In the meantime, I just thread my hand.  Saves a lot of time and frustration.  (As they say, insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, and expecting different results) 🤨 Sue

Ceil J
 

Thanks, Sue.
I feel very confident in this advice as my dealer is one of the top ones in the US.  He's also a friend of Jim and Diane :)  He's all about educating his customers and ensuring that he gives good advice. 
Ceil

cas <cassweet@...>
 

Thanks Jim.

I still think my machine doesn’t sew over seams as well as it used to but have not brought it back to the dealer.  Could that have anything to do with the new needle bar mechanism?  I have to just baby it through even a patchwork seam, sometimes even pulling it through.  Changing the tension makes no difference.

Cas

 

From: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io [mailto:onlinesewing-janome@groups.io] On Behalf Of onlinesewing@...
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2018 2:37 PM
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] New needle threader

 

The needle bar, which is the piece that holds the needle clamp and drives the needle through the fabric, is held in place by a set screw. In normal operation it never moves out of position, but a needle strike on something hard, like the needle plate, can cause it to be forced up slightly. The machine would still stop in the highest position, but the needle bar would be a bit higher than it should, which could cause problems with the threader. This rarely happens, though I did have a customer once who bent the needle bar on a 1600P high speed quilting machine. It was not a fun job to replace it!

Moving the bar the other way, so it doesn't go all the way up, can potentially happen if you are sewing on fabric that grabs the needle and won't let it go up easily. This has to be really sticky stuff, like glued-on sequins and the like. Again this is very rare.

The actual position of the needle bar is controlled by a sensor that breaks a light beam when the needle bar is at its highest. Like most of the sensors, it can be adjusted to stop the bar a bit higher or a bit lower. If you think yours is out of adjustment, it's a simple fix that your dealer can make.

Sue Raabe
 

Hi Ceil,
Everything you said about your dealer is true of mine! I almost wonder if it’s the same person.  I don’t hesitate to recommend him to friends because he has no hidden agenda.  He tells me if I don’t need something, and recommends what I do.  His staff is very well versed in the machines, and the one on one lessons are great.  I went to a local store just for needles, and the lady didn’t know the difference between the Janome needles and didn’t seem to care.  I need to remember that the next time I don’t feel like making the trip up there.  It’s less than an hour, and an easy drive - it's more the time commitment.  You’ve motivated me to take it in, and take a lesson on the 15000.  Thanks!  Sue

onlinesewing@...
 

Unless your dealer changed it, you don't have a new needle bar mechanism. That's not part of the upgrade and it would be astonishingly rare for you to need a new one unless you tried to sew through a steel plate. If the needle bar is out of position it would normally cause skipped stitches. Your problem sounds like it may relate to either foot pressure (not enough) or feed dog height. If you can't resolve it see your dealer for help.

Ceil J
 

Sue,
My dealer is Dave of Bittersweet Fabrics in NH.  It takes me over 2.5 hours to drive there but it's always worth the trip.  I went in the fall for the update but I usually don't venture there more than once a year. :) 
Ceil

Patrice Krant
 

Cas: I am having the same issue.

Donna Staller
 

Ceil,
That’s who I go to as well. I have to drive an hour and a half to get there, but it’s worth it.  Your tips about threading have worked beautifully. Thanks to you and Dave!
Donna


On Apr 28, 2018, at 6:29 PM, Ceil J <cjancola@...> wrote:

Sue,
My dealer is Dave of Bittersweet Fabrics in NH.  It takes me over 2.5 hours to drive there but it's always worth the trip.  I went in the fall for the update but I usually don't venture there more than once a year. :) 
Ceil