Calibrate Hoops and Free Arm Hoop


joylaytor
 

I decided to calibrate my hoops and when I did so, it looks like I need to do all of them because when I (carefully) placed each one with the template on, they all wanted to be at a different spot with the needle centered on the hole in the template.  Please let me know if this is correct.  (A previous message had indicated that you need to calibrate only one hoop.)

Also, I used the free arm one just once and it bounced up and down furiously.  When I went to class last week another owner's free arm hoop did not bounce.  Mine has a considerable distance between the hoop bottom and the bed of the machine.  Do you think it is warped?  Can it be used only when something is securing it under the free arm?  Surely I can use it for ordinary embroidery, not just for free arm work?

Thanks,
Joy


Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

They may not all hit in the exact center of the template hole, but they should all allow the needle to go through the hole. That said, we have discovered that you do, indeed, have to calibrate each hoop separately.

Our free arm hoop FA is also warped, and sits nearly 1/4 above the machine bed. Diane used it extensively putting names on Christmas gifts and it worked fine, even with the bouncing. This is reminiscent of the hoop RE for the 11000. There was a manufacturing problem that resulted in many of them being warped out of the box. It took a while, but Janome did replace the warped ones.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "joylaytor" <joylaytor@...> wrote:

I decided to calibrate my hoops and when I did so, it looks like I need
to do all of them because when I (carefully) placed each one with the
template on, they all wanted to be at a different spot with the needle
centered on the hole in the template. Please let me know if this is
correct. (A previous message had indicated that you need to calibrate
only one hoop.)
Also, I used the free arm one just once and it bounced up and down
furiously. When I went to class last week another owner's free arm hoop
did not bounce. Mine has a considerable distance between the hoop
bottom and the bed of the machine. Do you think it is warped? Can it
be used only when something is securing it under the free arm? Surely I
can use it for ordinary embroidery, not just for free arm work?
Thanks,Joy


joylaytor
 

Thanks, Jim.  I'll have to take the Free Arm hoop in for replacement and thanks for verifying that we should calibrate all the hoops.
Joy


vicki chrobak
 

OK, Jim forgive forgive the ignorance of this question. Am I supposed to calibrate every hoop every time I do a design? And could you define exactly what you mean by calibrate. I have only had 2 problems -- once when the design wasn't centered (may have been operator error) & the 2nd when I didn't see that I needed a larger hoop for the design.

--
Vicki Jo


joylaytor
 

Vicki Jo,
Let me see if I can answer this: You need to calibrate each hoop only once (or again after servicing). To calibrate, select Embroidery and open arm, then select SET, choose Embroidery (blue machine icon) and navigate to the page (page 4/6) where you see Hoop Calibration and click YES. Place desired hoop with its template on arm then select the hoop (red hoop icon) you wish to calibrate. The hoop will now move into position. If the needle is not right above hole in template, press on arrows until it is, the press OK. Repeat for each hoop. This should help with alignment. Check that Free Arm hoop is level and doesn't stick above bed. Mine is warped.

You do need to be sure to use the correct size hoop for each design. There is no sensor to tell you that you have the wrong hoop on the machine. This is different from other major brand machines and gave me a little surprise once!
Joy

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, vicki chrobak <tulsajo1@...> wrote:

OK, Jim forgive forgive the ignorance of this question. Am I supposed
to calibrate every hoop every time I do a design? Antd could you define
exactly what you mean by calibrate. I have only had 2 problems -- once
when the design wasn't centered (may have been operator error) & the 2nd
when I didn't see that I needed a larger hoop for the design.

--
Vicki Jo


vicki chrobak
 

Thank you very much Joy. And yes I was used to other machines that had sensors for the wrong hoop & I too had one of those surprises with this machine.

--
Vicki Jo

Vicki Jo,

Let me see if I can answer this: You need to calibrate each hoop only
once (or again after servicing). To calibrate, select Embroidery and
open arm, then select SET, choose Embroidery (blue machine icon) and
navigate to the page (page 4/6) where you see Hoop Calibration and click
YES. Place desired hoop with its template on arm then select the hoop
(red hoop icon) you wish to calibrate. The hoop will now move into
position. If the needle is not right above hole in template, press on
arrows until it is, the press OK. Repeat for each hoop. This should
help with alignment. Check that Free Arm hoop is level and doesn't
stick above bed. Mine is warped.



You do need to be sure to use the correct size hoop for each design.
There is no sensor to tell you that you have the wrong hoop on the
machine. This is different from other major brand machines and gave me a
little surprise once!

Joy


Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Joy nailed it in her post. The point of calibration is to make sure that what the machine thinks is the center of your hoop really is the center. Normally you would only need to do it once, preferably right out of the box, but in servicing the machine the base usually gets removed and may be replaced in a very slightly different alignment. So after a service it would be advisable to check the hoops.

The book is sadly deficient on this topic. Logic would dictate that all hoops should have the same center, since they all attach to the same connector. However it appears that the free arm hoop is just a bit different and requires separate calibration.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, vicki chrobak <tulsajo1@...> wrote:

OK, Jim forgive forgive the ignorance of this question. Am I supposed
to calibrate every hoop every time I do a design? And could you define
exactly what you mean by calibrate. I have only had 2 problems -- once
when the design wasn't centered (may have been operator error) & the 2nd
when I didn't see that I needed a larger hoop for the design.

--
Vicki Jo


vicki chrobak
 

Thank you again Jim. I understand now. I agree the book is sadly deficient in this area.

--
Vicki Jo


vicki chrobak
 

Thank you Joy & Jim. Calibration successful & I, too, had a warped free arm hoop.
Vicki Jo


Julie
 

Jim - I have been reading prior posts on this subject and not sure about some answers.

1. you are saying that each hoop will have to be calibrated for THAT particular hoop each time you change hoops? I hope you are not saying that. Two of my hoops were exactly the same. One was a little off from the middle but still went through the hole, and the free arm was pretty far off. For the one hoop (largest one) that was not exactly in the middle, will I have to calibrate it separately when I use it and then recalibrate for the others?

2. How can you tell if the free arm hoop is warped? On mine the left side is lower than the right if you get down and look at how far it is from the base of the machine. Is that what it means by being warped?

3. The free arm will always have to be calibrated because it's going to be different from the others?

Thanks for making this all clear for me. I do appreciate your information on how to calibrate. Did not know that existed.

Julie

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Jim_Stutsman" <jim@...> wrote:

Joy nailed it in her post. The point of calibration is to make sure that what the machine thinks is the center of your hoop really is the center. Normally you would only need to do it once, preferably right out of the box, but in servicing the machine the base usually gets removed and may be replaced in a very slightly different alignment. So after a service it would be advisable to check the hoops.

The book is sadly deficient on this topic. Logic would dictate that all hoops should have the same center, since they all attach to the same connector. However it appears that the free arm hoop is just a bit different and requires separate calibration.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, vicki chrobak <tulsajo1@> wrote:

OK, Jim forgive forgive the ignorance of this question. Am I supposed
to calibrate every hoop every time I do a design? And could you define
exactly what you mean by calibrate. I have only had 2 problems -- once
when the design wasn't centered (may have been operator error) & the 2nd
when I didn't see that I needed a larger hoop for the design.

--
Vicki Jo


Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

1. NO, NO, NO! You calibrate your machine ONCE. It is only necessary to calibrate again if your machine is serviced, or you use the "Reset all to defaults" option in the SET screen.

2. Lay the free arm hoop on a flat surface (table, countertop) with the attaching knob extending off the edge. The hoop should be laying flat, or very close to flat. Ours is lifted up about 3/8" at the hoop end when the rest of it is flat. We can also look down the edge of the hoop and see an obvious bend in it.

3. We initially believed that calibrating one hoop would do for all of them, because in theory all hoops have the same center. What we found is that the free arm hoop center was slightly off when all the rest were perfect. Calibrating it separately solved that. It may, or may not, be different from the others. Check and calibrate if necessary - once!

Hope this helps!

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <jjems@...> wrote:

Jim - I have been reading prior posts on this subject and not sure about some answers.

1. you are saying that each hoop will have to be calibrated for THAT particular hoop each time you change hoops? I hope you are not saying that. Two of my hoops were exactly the same. One was a little off from the middle but still went through the hole, and the free arm was pretty far off. For the one hoop (largest one) that was not exactly in the middle, will I have to calibrate it separately when I use it and then recalibrate for the others?

2. How can you tell if the free arm hoop is warped? On mine the left side is lower than the right if you get down and look at how far it is from the base of the machine. Is that what it means by being warped?

3. The free arm will always have to be calibrated because it's going to be different from the others?

Thanks for making this all clear for me. I do appreciate your information on how to calibrate. Did not know that existed.

Julie


Julie
 

Jim – I don’t want to beat this to death either but if you only have to calibrate one time, then it must mean that the machine is going to recognize the particular hoop that you did the calibration for – and if I put on the free arm hoop and change the calibration for the center of that hoop, then the calibration gets memorized for THAT particular hoop. 

 

With the No, no, no, no only calibrate one time – -----------  calibrate the 3 regular hoops once and the  free arm once – after that nothing else will have to be done?  All will be memorized for each hoop?

 

Julie

 

1. NO, NO, NO! You calibrate your machine ONCE. It is only necessary to calibrate again if your machine is serviced, or you use the "Reset all to defaults" option in the SET screen.

3. We initially believed that calibrating one hoop would do for all of them, because in theory all hoops have the same center. What we found is that the free arm hoop center was slightly off when all the rest were perfect. Calibrating it separately solved that. It may, or may not, be different from the others. Check and calibrate if necessary - once!



Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

Oh my aching hoops! Here's what happens. The machine has sensors that tell it when it's at the far end of each movement - left/right or front/back. When you turn it on it moves the hoop holding bracket until the sensor says it's at the "home" position in both directions. When you open a design for a specific hoop, it knows to move it a certain number of steps in each direction to get to the center of the hoop. HOWEVER - due to many factors that might not be the EXACT center. In calibrating, you cause the machine to memorize an adjustment factor for each hoop. Every time a design is opened, the machine will move to where the center of that particular hoop should be, plus or minus the adjustment factor for that hoop. Because this factor is in the memory of the machine, you don't need to calibrate again UNLESS a) the machine is serviced and the base is removed/replaced - no technician I know can guarantee getting it back in the same exact position within a tenth of a millimeter OR b) you use the "Reset all to defaults" option in the SET screen, which puts all the memorized adjustments back to 0.

Note that this DOES NOT mean that the machine recognizes what hoop is attached, only that it assumes that the hoop stored in the design itself is the one on the machine. So if you use the GR hoop for a FA7 design AND do not change the hoop in the EDIT screen, it will use the calibration for hoop GR instead of FA7. I hoop, er hope, this clarifies how the process works. It's not nearly as complex as all these posts would have you believe!

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <jjems@...> wrote:

Jim - I don't want to beat this to death either but if you only have to
calibrate one time, then it must mean that the machine is going to recognize
the particular hoop that you did the calibration for - and if I put on the
free arm hoop and change the calibration for the center of that hoop, then
the calibration gets memorized for THAT particular hoop.



With the No, no, no, no only calibrate one time - ----------- calibrate the
3 regular hoops once and the free arm once - after that nothing else will
have to be done? All will be memorized for each hoop?



Julie