Topics

AcuFil measurement changes


Jeanniett Chicky
 

My project is to quilt individual squares on a child's quilt and I am trying to change the measurement from "MM" to "Inches".  I am working with the new Workbook Manual. I selected the AcuFil Tool in HLS but can not find a way to change the measurement type as shown on pg 197.  I have been able to change via Settings in the regular sewing and the embroidery selections but cannot change the AcuFil designs.  Thank you in advance from Texas.


valora hammond
 

Under where file usually is.  It should drop down for measurements 


On Jul 31, 2020, at 7:27 PM, Jeanniett Chicky <jmchicky@...> wrote:

My project is to quilt individual squares on a child's quilt and I am trying to change the measurement from "MM" to "Inches".  I am working with the new Workbook Manual. I selected the AcuFil Tool in HLS but can not find a way to change the measurement type as shown on pg 197.  I have been able to change via Settings in the regular sewing and the embroidery selections but cannot change the AcuFil designs.  Thank you in advance from Texas.


favymtz
 

It's under the Applications button! This is what you're looking for:

Now, the big quesiton is, how are you changing it in the Embroidery Edit mode in HLS? That's not possible in my experience!
--
Favymtz


Jeanniett Chicky
 

To my Janome Angel,

Thank you so very much…..

 

From: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io> On Behalf Of valora hammond via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 9:38 PM
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] AcuFil measurement changes

 

Under where file usually is.  It should drop down for measurements 



On Jul 31, 2020, at 7:27 PM, Jeanniett Chicky <jmchicky@...> wrote:

My project is to quilt individual squares on a child's quilt and I am trying to change the measurement from "MM" to "Inches".  I am working with the new Workbook Manual. I selected the AcuFil Tool in HLS but can not find a way to change the measurement type as shown on pg 197.  I have been able to change via Settings in the regular sewing and the embroidery selections but cannot change the AcuFil designs.  Thank you in advance from Texas.


Tracy
 

Jeanniett-

I know that using inches is "easier" if you have not gotten involved with using metric measurements - but I'd like to suggest not making the change and leaving your measurements as metric so you can learn and have an easier time in the future.

Here's why--  If you are having to move designs around, re-center them, enlarge/reduce size etc...  If you are using inch measurements - it's harder to determine what 1/2 would be if you are using 7/8" or 3/8" or 1-5/8" etc.  These types of measurements are harder to cut in half and then you end up with 8ths, 16ths, 32ndths of an inch etc.  But- if you are using metric and remember that 1in = 25mm, 1/2in = 12.5mm, 1/4in = 6mm, 1/8in = 3mm those 4 are the basis for being able to do most calculations using metrics.  They are the ones you would use the most with quilting and embroidery.  And once you start doing it pretty often, it comes naturally.  So- 7/8in = 21-21.5mm and I typically drop that .5mm because it's really *so* small.  (I added 12.5 + 6 + 3 = 21.5mm).  And- if it's a problem for you - you can make a chart and keep it handy so it's even easier.  But- here's the big thought... It's much easier to find the center of something that measures 21mm than it is 7/8" since you only cut 21 in half and come up with 10.5 (I round it to 10) so you can move something 10mm easier than you can stop to figure out what half of 7/8in is and then it's going to be off more when/if you round the # you get.  And- if you are like me, when I was doing inches... I would have to have a tape measure and then use it to determine where half would be.  Where's the tape measure when you need it??  To move a design 3/4in to the left (example) you would move it 18mm (1/2=12, 1/4=6mm).

Most digitizers use metrics for design sizes.  Some will list them with both measurements because they never know who might be buying their designs and don't want anyone to have to do the math (altho it's not hard for many....)  Most hoop sizes are listed in metric measurements so you can start from there.  If your hoop is 200x200 then you know center is 100mm going from the notches on each side of your hoop.  That's 4inches since you know that 25mm = 1in and 100mm divided by 25 is going to be 4.  But if your hoop is 5.5in x 7.9in (like one of mine) .... it's harder to figure out where center is by cutting those numbers in half than if you use 140mm x 197mm.  Cut both of the latter #s in half.  Newer Janome larger hoops that are 9.1in x 11in convert to 227mm x 275mm (the 12000, 15000, 14000 models machines) or the 550e has the 7.9 x 14in which converts to 197 x 350mm.  

Obviously, it's your choice.  This is just something to think about and my opinion... If you are moving designs around to group them, ungroup then center etc.... Metric makes it easier.  I really wish we had all grown up doing the metric system.  I didn't but have converted most of my measurements since becoming a nurse 40yrs ago, quilter 30yrs ago, and machine embroiderer 20yrs ago.

Tracy in Nashville, TN

Martha Pullen  Licensed Educator


Lucy Fino
 

Tracy, thank you!  That’s a lot to take in at one sitting but I’m going to take small bites!  Have a blessed day!

Sent from Lucy's iPhone

On Aug 2, 2020, at 4:01 PM, Tracy <TJOriginals@...> wrote:



Jeanniett-

I know that using inches is "easier" if you have not gotten involved with using metric measurements - but I'd like to suggest not making the change and leaving your measurements as metric so you can learn and have an easier time in the future.

Here's why--  If you are having to move designs around, re-center them, enlarge/reduce size etc...  If you are using inch measurements - it's harder to determine what 1/2 would be if you are using 7/8" or 3/8" or 1-5/8" etc.  These types of measurements are harder to cut in half and then you end up with 8ths, 16ths, 32ndths of an inch etc.  But- if you are using metric and remember that 1in = 25mm, 1/2in = 12.5mm, 1/4in = 6mm, 1/8in = 3mm those 4 are the basis for being able to do most calculations using metrics.  They are the ones you would use the most with quilting and embroidery.  And once you start doing it pretty often, it comes naturally.  So- 7/8in = 21-21.5mm and I typically drop that .5mm because it's really *so* small.  (I added 12.5 + 6 + 3 = 21.5mm).  And- if it's a problem for you - you can make a chart and keep it handy so it's even easier.  But- here's the big thought... It's much easier to find the center of something that measures 21mm than it is 7/8" since you only cut 21 in half and come up with 10.5 (I round it to 10) so you can move something 10mm easier than you can stop to figure out what half of 7/8in is and then it's going to be off more when/if you round the # you get.  And- if you are like me, when I was doing inches... I would have to have a tape measure and then use it to determine where half would be.  Where's the tape measure when you need it??  To move a design 3/4in to the left (example) you would move it 18mm (1/2=12, 1/4=6mm).

Most digitizers use metrics for design sizes.  Some will list them with both measurements because they never know who might be buying their designs and don't want anyone to have to do the math (altho it's not hard for many....)  Most hoop sizes are listed in metric measurements so you can start from there.  If your hoop is 200x200 then you know center is 100mm going from the notches on each side of your hoop.  That's 4inches since you know that 25mm = 1in and 100mm divided by 25 is going to be 4.  But if your hoop is 5.5in x 7.9in (like one of mine) .... it's harder to figure out where center is by cutting those numbers in half than if you use 140mm x 197mm.  Cut both of the latter #s in half.  Newer Janome larger hoops that are 9.1in x 11in convert to 227mm x 275mm (the 12000, 15000, 14000 models machines) or the 550e has the 7.9 x 14in which converts to 197 x 350mm.  

Obviously, it's your choice.  This is just something to think about and my opinion... If you are moving designs around to group them, ungroup then center etc.... Metric makes it easier.  I really wish we had all grown up doing the metric system.  I didn't but have converted most of my measurements since becoming a nurse 40yrs ago, quilter 30yrs ago, and machine embroiderer 20yrs ago.

Tracy in Nashville, TN

Martha Pullen  Licensed Educator


Kim Normandin
 

Tracy,
Thank you so much for that perspective!  I always thought of metrics as difficult (obviously only because I didn’t know that system). Think I will do a little studying up😊

Kim


On Aug 2, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Tracy <TJOriginals@...> wrote:



Jeanniett-

I know that using inches is "easier" if you have not gotten involved with using metric measurements - but I'd like to suggest not making the change and leaving your measurements as metric so you can learn and have an easier time in the future.

Here's why--  If you are having to move designs around, re-center them, enlarge/reduce size etc...  If you are using inch measurements - it's harder to determine what 1/2 would be if you are using 7/8" or 3/8" or 1-5/8" etc.  These types of measurements are harder to cut in half and then you end up with 8ths, 16ths, 32ndths of an inch etc.  But- if you are using metric and remember that 1in = 25mm, 1/2in = 12.5mm, 1/4in = 6mm, 1/8in = 3mm those 4 are the basis for being able to do most calculations using metrics.  They are the ones you would use the most with quilting and embroidery.  And once you start doing it pretty often, it comes naturally.  So- 7/8in = 21-21.5mm and I typically drop that .5mm because it's really *so* small.  (I added 12.5 + 6 + 3 = 21.5mm).  And- if it's a problem for you - you can make a chart and keep it handy so it's even easier.  But- here's the big thought... It's much easier to find the center of something that measures 21mm than it is 7/8" since you only cut 21 in half and come up with 10.5 (I round it to 10) so you can move something 10mm easier than you can stop to figure out what half of 7/8in is and then it's going to be off more when/if you round the # you get.  And- if you are like me, when I was doing inches... I would have to have a tape measure and then use it to determine where half would be.  Where's the tape measure when you need it??  To move a design 3/4in to the left (example) you would move it 18mm (1/2=12, 1/4=6mm).

Most digitizers use metrics for design sizes.  Some will list them with both measurements because they never know who might be buying their designs and don't want anyone to have to do the math (altho it's not hard for many....)  Most hoop sizes are listed in metric measurements so you can start from there.  If your hoop is 200x200 then you know center is 100mm going from the notches on each side of your hoop.  That's 4inches since you know that 25mm = 1in and 100mm divided by 25 is going to be 4.  But if your hoop is 5.5in x 7.9in (like one of mine) .... it's harder to figure out where center is by cutting those numbers in half than if you use 140mm x 197mm.  Cut both of the latter #s in half.  Newer Janome larger hoops that are 9.1in x 11in convert to 227mm x 275mm (the 12000, 15000, 14000 models machines) or the 550e has the 7.9 x 14in which converts to 197 x 350mm.  

Obviously, it's your choice.  This is just something to think about and my opinion... If you are moving designs around to group them, ungroup then center etc.... Metric makes it easier.  I really wish we had all grown up doing the metric system.  I didn't but have converted most of my measurements since becoming a nurse 40yrs ago, quilter 30yrs ago, and machine embroiderer 20yrs ago.

Tracy in Nashville, TN

Martha Pullen  Licensed Educator


valora hammond
 

When I teach I usually use money as the comparison.  1”=a quarter (25 cents). And a millimeter=a penny.  So if your hoop is 200mm x200mm how many quarters do you need to make $2.00.  
If you have centimeters it is just another 0 on the end to get millimeters. 
And splitting mm in half us much easier. A design is 3.75”. What is half of that other then a headache. That same design is 80mm. You would need half of the design if putting it above a pocket and needed to know center if the design for placement. 


On Aug 3, 2020, at 6:13 AM, Kim Normandin <Knormandin2@...> wrote:

Tracy,
Thank you so much for that perspective!  I always thought of metrics as difficult (obviously only because I didn’t know that system). Think I will do a little studying up😊

Kim


On Aug 2, 2020, at 5:01 PM, Tracy <TJOriginals@...> wrote:



Jeanniett-

I know that using inches is "easier" if you have not gotten involved with using metric measurements - but I'd like to suggest not making the change and leaving your measurements as metric so you can learn and have an easier time in the future.

Here's why--  If you are having to move designs around, re-center them, enlarge/reduce size etc...  If you are using inch measurements - it's harder to determine what 1/2 would be if you are using 7/8" or 3/8" or 1-5/8" etc.  These types of measurements are harder to cut in half and then you end up with 8ths, 16ths, 32ndths of an inch etc.  But- if you are using metric and remember that 1in = 25mm, 1/2in = 12.5mm, 1/4in = 6mm, 1/8in = 3mm those 4 are the basis for being able to do most calculations using metrics.  They are the ones you would use the most with quilting and embroidery.  And once you start doing it pretty often, it comes naturally.  So- 7/8in = 21-21.5mm and I typically drop that .5mm because it's really *so* small.  (I added 12.5 + 6 + 3 = 21.5mm).  And- if it's a problem for you - you can make a chart and keep it handy so it's even easier.  But- here's the big thought... It's much easier to find the center of something that measures 21mm than it is 7/8" since you only cut 21 in half and come up with 10.5 (I round it to 10) so you can move something 10mm easier than you can stop to figure out what half of 7/8in is and then it's going to be off more when/if you round the # you get.  And- if you are like me, when I was doing inches... I would have to have a tape measure and then use it to determine where half would be.  Where's the tape measure when you need it??  To move a design 3/4in to the left (example) you would move it 18mm (1/2=12, 1/4=6mm).

Most digitizers use metrics for design sizes.  Some will list them with both measurements because they never know who might be buying their designs and don't want anyone to have to do the math (altho it's not hard for many....)  Most hoop sizes are listed in metric measurements so you can start from there.  If your hoop is 200x200 then you know center is 100mm going from the notches on each side of your hoop.  That's 4inches since you know that 25mm = 1in and 100mm divided by 25 is going to be 4.  But if your hoop is 5.5in x 7.9in (like one of mine) .... it's harder to figure out where center is by cutting those numbers in half than if you use 140mm x 197mm.  Cut both of the latter #s in half.  Newer Janome larger hoops that are 9.1in x 11in convert to 227mm x 275mm (the 12000, 15000, 14000 models machines) or the 550e has the 7.9 x 14in which converts to 197 x 350mm.  

Obviously, it's your choice.  This is just something to think about and my opinion... If you are moving designs around to group them, ungroup then center etc.... Metric makes it easier.  I really wish we had all grown up doing the metric system.  I didn't but have converted most of my measurements since becoming a nurse 40yrs ago, quilter 30yrs ago, and machine embroiderer 20yrs ago.

Tracy in Nashville, TN

Martha Pullen  Licensed Educator


Lyn Quine
 

I cannot work in metric at all, it just doesn’t work with my brain, I was taught Imperial at school, I use feet and inches in my quilting, although I have to buy fabric and thread in metres, but that’s fine.  I work on the basis that 10cms =4 inches.  10cms is 100mm is 4 inches all 3 are divisible and multiplied easily, I was taught my times tables the same as all British children in the 50s and 60s by chanting, and I can still chant them today they are ingrained in my head.  I’m not very good at mathematics, when my lovely quilting teacher starts talking about measurements and angles etc., she can see the shutters come down and I start to panic, because I just cannot and do not understand them.  


Jeanniett Chicky
 

I think I will re-eduate myself and maybe even make it easier on my self….Thank you so very much for the information it truly was VERY helpful…

Jeanniett from Texas

 

From: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io> On Behalf Of Tracy
Sent: Sunday, August 2, 2020 3:00 PM
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] AcuFil measurement changes

 

Jeanniett-

I know that using inches is "easier" if you have not gotten involved with using metric measurements - but I'd like to suggest not making the change and leaving your measurements as metric so you can learn and have an easier time in the future.

Here's why--  If you are having to move designs around, re-center them, enlarge/reduce size etc...  If you are using inch measurements - it's harder to determine what 1/2 would be if you are using 7/8" or 3/8" or 1-5/8" etc.  These types of measurements are harder to cut in half and then you end up with 8ths, 16ths, 32ndths of an inch etc.  But- if you are using metric and remember that 1in = 25mm, 1/2in = 12.5mm, 1/4in = 6mm, 1/8in = 3mm those 4 are the basis for being able to do most calculations using metrics.  They are the ones you would use the most with quilting and embroidery.  And once you start doing it pretty often, it comes naturally.  So- 7/8in = 21-21.5mm and I typically drop that .5mm because it's really *so* small.  (I added 12.5 + 6 + 3 = 21.5mm).  And- if it's a problem for you - you can make a chart and keep it handy so it's even easier.  But- here's the big thought... It's much easier to find the center of something that measures 21mm than it is 7/8" since you only cut 21 in half and come up with 10.5 (I round it to 10) so you can move something 10mm easier than you can stop to figure out what half of 7/8in is and then it's going to be off more when/if you round the # you get.  And- if you are like me, when I was doing inches... I would have to have a tape measure and then use it to determine where half would be.  Where's the tape measure when you need it??  To move a design 3/4in to the left (example) you would move it 18mm (1/2=12, 1/4=6mm).

Most digitizers use metrics for design sizes.  Some will list them with both measurements because they never know who might be buying their designs and don't want anyone to have to do the math (altho it's not hard for many....)  Most hoop sizes are listed in metric measurements so you can start from there.  If your hoop is 200x200 then you know center is 100mm going from the notches on each side of your hoop.  That's 4inches since you know that 25mm = 1in and 100mm divided by 25 is going to be 4.  But if your hoop is 5.5in x 7.9in (like one of mine) .... it's harder to figure out where center is by cutting those numbers in half than if you use 140mm x 197mm.  Cut both of the latter #s in half.  Newer Janome larger hoops that are 9.1in x 11in convert to 227mm x 275mm (the 12000, 15000, 14000 models machines) or the 550e has the 7.9 x 14in which converts to 197 x 350mm.  

Obviously, it's your choice.  This is just something to think about and my opinion... If you are moving designs around to group them, ungroup then center etc.... Metric makes it easier.  I really wish we had all grown up doing the metric system.  I didn't but have converted most of my measurements since becoming a nurse 40yrs ago, quilter 30yrs ago, and machine embroiderer 20yrs ago.

Tracy in Nashville, TN

Martha Pullen  Licensed Educator


Mary Almond
 

Thanks! I am going to work on this


Pinguin
 

Working with metrics is much easier, because you work with what I call a 10-system.
1 meter = 10 decimeter=100 centimeter= 1000 millimeter.

With imperial it's much more complicated.
1 yard = 3 feet = 36 inches
And then you divide the inches in half, quarters, eights and sixteenths.
So 1 yard = 72 x 1/2" or 144 x 1/4" or 288 x 1/8" or 576 x 1/16"
And it becomes really complicated when you have to multiply or divide measurements as 2 3/4" or 11 5/16"

So for me metric is the most logical and efficient way to measure.

Gerda


Op 02-08-2020 om 21:59 schreef Tracy:

Jeanniett-

I know that using inches is "easier" if you have not gotten involved with using metric measurements - but I'd like to suggest not making the change and leaving your measurements as metric so you can learn and have an easier time in the future.

Here's why--  If you are having to move designs around, re-center them, enlarge/reduce size etc...  If you are using inch measurements - it's harder to determine what 1/2 would be if you are using 7/8" or 3/8" or 1-5/8" etc.  These types of measurements are harder to cut in half and then you end up with 8ths, 16ths, 32ndths of an inch etc.  But- if you are using metric and remember that 1in = 25mm, 1/2in = 12.5mm, 1/4in = 6mm, 1/8in = 3mm those 4 are the basis for being able to do most calculations using metrics.  They are the ones you would use the most with quilting and embroidery.  And once you start doing it pretty often, it comes naturally.  So- 7/8in = 21-21.5mm and I typically drop that .5mm because it's really *so* small.  (I added 12.5 + 6 + 3 = 21.5mm).  And- if it's a problem for you - you can make a chart and keep it handy so it's even easier.  But- here's the big thought... It's much easier to find the center of something that measures 21mm than it is 7/8" since you only cut 21 in half and come up with 10.5 (I round it to 10) so you can move something 10mm easier than you can stop to figure out what half of 7/8in is and then it's going to be off more when/if you round the # you get.  And- if you are like me, when I was doing inches... I would have to have a tape measure and then use it to determine where half would be.  Where's the tape measure when you need it??  To move a design 3/4in to the left (example) you would move it 18mm (1/2=12, 1/4=6mm).

Most digitizers use metrics for design sizes.  Some will list them with both measurements because they never know who might be buying their designs and don't want anyone to have to do the math (altho it's not hard for many....)  Most hoop sizes are listed in metric measurements so you can start from there.  If your hoop is 200x200 then you know center is 100mm going from the notches on each side of your hoop.  That's 4inches since you know that 25mm = 1in and 100mm divided by 25 is going to be 4.  But if your hoop is 5.5in x 7.9in (like one of mine) .... it's harder to figure out where center is by cutting those numbers in half than if you use 140mm x 197mm.  Cut both of the latter #s in half.  Newer Janome larger hoops that are 9.1in x 11in convert to 227mm x 275mm (the 12000, 15000, 14000 models machines) or the 550e has the 7.9 x 14in which converts to 197 x 350mm.  

Obviously, it's your choice.  This is just something to think about and my opinion... If you are moving designs around to group them, ungroup then center etc.... Metric makes it easier.  I really wish we had all grown up doing the metric system.  I didn't but have converted most of my measurements since becoming a nurse 40yrs ago, quilter 30yrs ago, and machine embroiderer 20yrs ago.

Tracy in Nashville, TN

Martha Pullen  Licensed Educator