10001oiling


mah_jongg
 

A friend of mine inherited a 10000. She is worried about running it being it has not been ran in roughly 5-8 years. She called me for help (we both have the 10000) and was wondering if it should be oiled first. My thoughts are: inside bobbin case, bobbin winder, and if felt wick is dry to also oil that. She is leaving getting the machine up and running to me. Machine will be used regularly after initial start-up (living between her house and her daughters). Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mahjongg


Lyn Quine
 

Perhaps a check over and service with a dealers techy would be a good idea.  


On 30 Jan 2023, at 21:06, mah_jongg via groups.io <mah_jongg@...> wrote:

A friend of mine inherited a 10000. She is worried about running it being it has not been ran in roughly 5-8 years. She called me for help (we both have the 10000) and was wondering if it should be oiled first. My thoughts are: inside bobbin case, bobbin winder, and if felt wick is dry to also oil that. She is leaving getting the machine up and running to me. Machine will be used regularly after initial start-up (living between her house and her daughters). Any and all help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mahjongg


Jim Stutsman
 

It's quite difficult to do much oiling without removing case parts, and that can be tricky in itself. I would suggest you start by laying the machine on its back and removing the bed cover, directly under the bobbin area. It's held by two silver Phillips screws. Use a vacuum to suck out as much of the debris as you can. Next turn the hand wheel through a few turns. It should turn freely, like butter. Watch what's moving as you turn. If you have proper machine oil (NOT 3-in-One, or WD-40!) apply 1 drop to the obvious points of metal to metal contact. The feed cam (brown plastic) will have grease on it. If you have very light grease (Lithium for example) you can apply a touch there. If you don't, then leave it alone. Replace the cover.

Topside you can put a drop on the wick under the bobbin case. Don't put any on the hook race that the bobbin case sits on. Check the hook race for scratches, nicks, & burrs. Those will cause trouble. They can sometimes be smoothed with a very fine polishing stone. Put a drop or two of oil on a rag and wipe it on the needle bar and presser bar near at the point where they come out. Just enough to put a light coating on them. Do not oil directly, as it will drip on fabric. There's not much else that needs doing, or that can be done without taking off covers. Bobbin winder, maybe but VERY little. Oil on the rubber ring will cause problems.

Once you done that, set it up unthreaded. Pick a one-color design and set it up without a hoop. Use a folded business card in the tension slot to trick the machine into thinking it's threaded. Then fake-stitch the design at the slowest speed. Listen to how it sounds and stop if it seems labored. After it finishes, turn the hand wheel. It should still be smooth and easy. If it feels even slightly stiff, don't use the machine. This model has a tendency for the top bushing at the right end of the machine to fail. If it does, the shaft will eventually seize up. Oil will not help, or even prevent the problem. Fixing it requires replacement of the top shaft and the bushing. The parts are nominally expensive, but the labor is brutal, which means expensive.