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Morning,
My
15000 bobbin case spins around, pops up the plate, which causes a big jam.
I took this in for service and it did the same thing again.
Why does this do this? Can't seem to get an answer.
I just don't know what I'm doing wrong. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Jim Stutsman
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight. That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do: 1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not. 2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.  You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag, it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
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All my Janomes since 2001 have the jumping bobbin issue except my 15000. I just bought different cases until it stopped. The 6500 is using an old MC10000 bobbin case and all works well. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad
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toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 16, 2023, at 12:00 PM, Jim Stutsman via groups.io <onlinesewing@...> wrote:
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight. That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do: 1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not. 2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow. <bobbincase.jpeg> You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag, it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
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I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed. It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin. What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not). Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated' down in there. If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam. If you don't already do this, get into the habit please! This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this very important step in threading our machines. Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight. That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do: 1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not. 2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow. <bobbincase.jpeg> You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag, it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
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Favymtz
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Lyn Quine
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one. The new one came
from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun in the machine
and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back in and it’s worked
and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of the cost of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
On 19 Jan 2023, at 14:15, favymtz <favymtz@...> wrote:
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason
it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated'
down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that
the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
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Favymtz
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Lyn, I think you have a valid question to send Janome. Perhaps they changed manufacturers for the bobbin cases and there is something just a few mm off with the newly manufactured parts. I read carefully what you stated about these bobbin cases and it seems to me that there is something "off" with the new ones. They should know this because if this is the case this will really give their entire line of machines a bad name. Years ago with my 10000, I had to replace a bobbin case and never had a problem as you are having with new ones now. That just doesn't sound right.
Keep us posted on what they say if you inquire about this ... bobbin cases are not inexpensive either.
Pat
On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM Lyn Quine < lynquine@...> wrote:
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one. The new one came
from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun in the machine
and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back in and it’s worked
and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of the cost of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason
it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated'
down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that
the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
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Favymtz
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Lyn Quine
I did tell Janome and backed it up with photos, but of course the new machine was in the pipeline, and they weren’t interested told me they weren’t aware of the problem. There a guy in Canada who bought a new 15000, the saga of the spinning bobbin case is
on YouTube, there’s about 5 or 6 videos cataloguing this poor man’s experience with his 15000, which became a nightmare for him. His dealer had the machine in umpteen times, couldn’t find a problem, then they loaned him a demo machine which worked perfectly.
Now if it was user error, then the problem would have occurred with the demo machine and it didn’t. I think he calls himself the crazy quilter. And there are others who experience similar problems. When that little case spins it is very scary believe me,
the noise alone is crazy and then to realise the machine is jammed solid. The only way to release it is to remove the needle and very slowly turn the wheel, backwards and forwards to get the case to move. The damage that spring at the front for the machine
was bad, it bit into the side of the case and gouged out a groove in the side, I’m very lucky I didn’t have to replace the spring. It was serviced just before this all happened.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 19 Jan 2023, at 15:22, Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...> wrote:
Lyn, I think you have a valid question to send Janome. Perhaps they changed manufacturers for the bobbin cases and there is something just a few mm off with the newly manufactured parts. I read
carefully what you stated about these bobbin cases and it seems to me that there is something "off" with the new ones. They should know this because if this is the case this will really give their entire line of machines a bad name.
Years ago with my 10000, I had to replace a bobbin case and never had a problem as you are having with new ones now. That just doesn't sound right.
Keep us posted on what they say if you inquire about this ... bobbin cases are not inexpensive either.
Pat
On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM Lyn Quine < lynquine@...> wrote:
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one.
The new one came from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun
in the machine and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back
in and it’s worked and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of
the cost of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated' down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this
very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
--
Favymtz
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Now you've got me wondering...drat it all!!!
Back in December, my 15000 threw a huge thread nest tantrum and held the 'flipper' hostage, and the 'culprit' seemed to be the original yellow dot bobbin case, so I am now using a spare yellow dot bobbin case, and had already decided to get it an annual service and have them check the little 'flipper' for proper functioning after the abuse it took. However, I have held off because of all the projects I am trying to finish first...and now a long time dear friend is getting another new grandbaby so I've completed two crib sheets, two toddler size pillowcases, a soft book, and have only the quilting on the baby quilt that matches everything yet to do...unless I do follow though on my thoughts of making a reading pillow, too. But...my 15000 seems very 'noisy' to me, compared to how quiet it was with the original yellow dot bobbin case in there...'why'...I WILL be taking it 'somewhere' to have it looked at...eventually.
But, having worked in a high tech manufacturing industry, and having retired after 30+ years as a 'computer guy' in the I.T. Departments of several companies...often the ONLY 'IT guy' there controlling their entire network...after 'microcomputers and programming was a previous hobby and why I switched careers into the computers world...I am well aware that specifications for (I'd guess) ALL manufactured products include a "+/- tolerance" so that the products are PRETTY DARN NEAR the same when at the end of the production line. That doesn't mean that some aren't on the 'near side' of that tolerance while others are on the 'far side' of that tolerance, so 'some' might work fine in certain cases where 'others' would fail under the same circumstances.
So, I am VERY CURIOUS, and would love to hear of any addition information that comes to light regarding the 'new' bobbin cases vs the 'original equipment' bobbin cases. I think I have a couple more yellow dot spare bobbin cases, so if I can manage it...time wise...I am now thinking of trying the other spares to see if I think they are noisier/quieter, etc.
Golly...so easy to expand to To Do list...but I so LOVE my 15000!!!
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:21 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Lyn, I think you have a valid question to send Janome. Perhaps they changed manufacturers for the bobbin cases and there is something just a few mm off with the newly manufactured parts. I read carefully what you stated about these bobbin cases and it seems to me that there is something "off" with the new ones. They should know this because if this is the case this will really give their entire line of machines a bad name.
Years ago with my 10000, I had to replace a bobbin case and never had a problem as you are having with new ones now. That just doesn't sound right.
Keep us posted on what they say if you inquire about this ... bobbin cases are not inexpensive either.
Pat
On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM Lyn Quine < lynquine@...> wrote:
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one. The new one came
from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun in the machine
and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back in and it’s worked
and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of the cost of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason
it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated'
down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that
the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
--
Favymtz
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Lyn Quine
Cat. It would seem the newer cases with the part numbers etched into the base are the ones that might be a problem, my original one is quiet, the new ones they clatter around from the start. I too am aware of tolerances +/- and I did wonder if my original
one might be getting a bit worn and need retiring, well I’m not going to retire it anytime soon, it can continue into old age. I just wish I’d bought more spares because the two new ones cost me the best part of £60 between them and I can’t get a refund on
them.
On 19 Jan 2023, at 15:47, Cat - N via groups.io <navillusc@...> wrote:
Now you've got me wondering...drat it all!!!
Back in December, my 15000 threw a huge thread nest tantrum and held the 'flipper' hostage, and the 'culprit' seemed to be the original yellow dot bobbin case, so I am now using a spare yellow dot bobbin case, and had already decided to
get it an annual service and have them check the little 'flipper' for proper functioning after the abuse it took. However, I have held off because of all the projects I am trying to finish first...and now a long time dear friend is getting another new grandbaby
so I've completed two crib sheets, two toddler size pillowcases, a soft book, and have only the quilting on the baby quilt that matches everything yet to do...unless I do follow though on my thoughts of making a reading pillow, too. But...my 15000 seems very
'noisy' to me, compared to how quiet it was with the original yellow dot bobbin case in there...'why'...I WILL be taking it 'somewhere' to have it looked at...eventually.
But, having worked in a high tech manufacturing industry, and having retired after 30+ years as a 'computer guy' in the I.T. Departments of several companies...often the ONLY 'IT guy' there controlling their entire network...after 'microcomputers
and programming was a previous hobby and why I switched careers into the computers world...I am well aware that specifications for (I'd guess) ALL manufactured products include a "+/- tolerance" so that the products are PRETTY DARN NEAR the same when at the
end of the production line. That doesn't mean that some aren't on the 'near side' of that tolerance while others are on the 'far side' of that tolerance, so 'some' might work fine in certain cases where 'others' would fail under the same circumstances.
So, I am VERY CURIOUS, and would love to hear of any addition information that comes to light regarding the 'new' bobbin cases vs the 'original equipment' bobbin cases. I think I have a couple more yellow dot spare bobbin cases, so if I
can manage it...time wise...I am now thinking of trying the other spares to see if I think they are noisier/quieter, etc.
Golly...so easy to expand to To Do list...but I so LOVE my 15000!!!
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:21 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Lyn, I think you have a valid question to send Janome. Perhaps they changed manufacturers for the bobbin cases and there is something just a few mm off with the newly manufactured parts. I read carefully what you stated about these bobbin cases and it seems
to me that there is something "off" with the new ones. They should know this because if this is the case this will really give their entire line of machines a bad name.
Years ago with my 10000, I had to replace a bobbin case and never had a problem as you are having with new ones now. That just doesn't sound right.
Keep us posted on what they say if you inquire about this ... bobbin cases are not inexpensive either.
Pat
On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM Lyn Quine < lynquine@...> wrote:
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one. The new
one came from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun in the
machine and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back in and
it’s worked and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of the cost
of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated' down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this
very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
--
Favymtz
|
|
|
No refunds on my spares (USA) either, but I recall seeing PN's on the metal 'bottom' of 'some' of my spare bobbin cases (all colors of dots)...just not sure which cases had PN's etched into them. I would absolutely still be using my original yellow dot bobbin case except it would not seat into the machine, so I have no choice to use a 'spare' bobbin case...noisy or not...and my main concern 'was' that the 'flipper' might not be measuring thread remaining on the bobbin and/or might be responsible for any new 'noise level' I 'think' I am hearing...hence a pending shop visit. To be honest, I am now wishing I had put calipers on them, weighed them both...etc...but I threw out the original yellow dot bobbin case to avoid accidentally trying to use it after that huge calamity. But...IF...Janome is having bobbin cases made by a different manufacturer, it is highly possible that some little something different IS causing problems in at least SOME 15000 machines...and I say that KNOWING that we had a printer go up in smoke overnight in a (closed) pub in England because Mallory changed their Mallory capacitors and they leaked afterward, and when mounted on our mainboards, those Mallory capacitors, mounted in the orientation OUR boards required, that leak onto the circuit etch resulted in fire inside our printers for our customers! (...but no one else had a problem...LOL)
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Lyn Quine <lynquine@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:57 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Cat. It would seem the newer cases with the part numbers etched into the base are the ones that might be a problem, my original one is quiet, the new ones they clatter around from the start. I too am aware of tolerances +/- and I did wonder if my original
one might be getting a bit worn and need retiring, well I’m not going to retire it anytime soon, it can continue into old age. I just wish I’d bought more spares because the two new ones cost me the best part of £60 between them and I can’t get a refund on
them.
On 19 Jan 2023, at 15:47, Cat - N via groups.io <navillusc@...> wrote:
Now you've got me wondering...drat it all!!!
Back in December, my 15000 threw a huge thread nest tantrum and held the 'flipper' hostage, and the 'culprit' seemed to be the original yellow dot bobbin case, so I am now using a spare yellow dot bobbin case, and had already decided to
get it an annual service and have them check the little 'flipper' for proper functioning after the abuse it took. However, I have held off because of all the projects I am trying to finish first...and now a long time dear friend is getting another new grandbaby
so I've completed two crib sheets, two toddler size pillowcases, a soft book, and have only the quilting on the baby quilt that matches everything yet to do...unless I do follow though on my thoughts of making a reading pillow, too. But...my 15000 seems very
'noisy' to me, compared to how quiet it was with the original yellow dot bobbin case in there...'why'...I WILL be taking it 'somewhere' to have it looked at...eventually.
But, having worked in a high tech manufacturing industry, and having retired after 30+ years as a 'computer guy' in the I.T. Departments of several companies...often the ONLY 'IT guy' there controlling their entire network...after 'microcomputers
and programming was a previous hobby and why I switched careers into the computers world...I am well aware that specifications for (I'd guess) ALL manufactured products include a "+/- tolerance" so that the products are PRETTY DARN NEAR the same when at the
end of the production line. That doesn't mean that some aren't on the 'near side' of that tolerance while others are on the 'far side' of that tolerance, so 'some' might work fine in certain cases where 'others' would fail under the same circumstances.
So, I am VERY CURIOUS, and would love to hear of any addition information that comes to light regarding the 'new' bobbin cases vs the 'original equipment' bobbin cases. I think I have a couple more yellow dot spare bobbin cases, so if I
can manage it...time wise...I am now thinking of trying the other spares to see if I think they are noisier/quieter, etc.
Golly...so easy to expand to To Do list...but I so LOVE my 15000!!!
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:21 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Lyn, I think you have a valid question to send Janome. Perhaps they changed manufacturers for the bobbin cases and there is something just a few mm off with the newly manufactured parts. I read carefully what you stated about these bobbin cases and it seems
to me that there is something "off" with the new ones. They should know this because if this is the case this will really give their entire line of machines a bad name.
Years ago with my 10000, I had to replace a bobbin case and never had a problem as you are having with new ones now. That just doesn't sound right.
Keep us posted on what they say if you inquire about this ... bobbin cases are not inexpensive either.
Pat
On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM Lyn Quine < lynquine@...> wrote:
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one. The new
one came from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun in the
machine and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back in and
it’s worked and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of the cost
of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated' down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this
very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
--
Favymtz
|
|
|
Lyn Quine
I made sure to buy my bobbin cases via a dealer on eBay, one I’ve used before, and then from Janome UK direct because there was a warning that on Amazon some of the bobbin cases weren’t being made under license (for want of a better word) but we’re generic
made in China. Yes I know the ‘licensed’ ones are probably made in China and possibly in the same factory but they weren’t up to spec, sold without the Janome packaging. Which is worrying because I’ve had feet and the bobbin case from Janome not in the packaging.
On 19 Jan 2023, at 16:33, Cat - N via groups.io <navillusc@...> wrote:
No refunds on my spares (USA) either, but I recall seeing PN's on the metal 'bottom' of 'some' of my spare bobbin cases (all colors of dots)...just not sure which cases had PN's etched into them. I would absolutely still be using my original
yellow dot bobbin case except it would not seat into the machine, so I have no choice to use a 'spare' bobbin case...noisy or not...and my main concern 'was' that the 'flipper' might not be measuring thread remaining on the bobbin and/or might be responsible
for any new 'noise level' I 'think' I am hearing...hence a pending shop visit. To be honest, I am now wishing I had put calipers on them, weighed them both...etc...but I threw out the original yellow dot bobbin case to avoid accidentally trying to use it
after that huge calamity. But...IF...Janome is having bobbin cases made by a different manufacturer, it is highly possible that some little something different IS causing problems in at least SOME 15000 machines...and I say that KNOWING that we had a printer
go up in smoke overnight in a (closed) pub in England because Mallory changed their Mallory capacitors and they leaked afterward, and when mounted on our mainboards, those Mallory capacitors,
mounted in the orientation OUR boards required, that leak onto the circuit etch resulted in fire inside our printers for our customers! (...but no one else had a problem...LOL)
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Lyn Quine <lynquine@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:57 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Cat. It would seem the newer cases with the part numbers etched into the base are the ones that might be a problem, my original one is quiet, the new ones they clatter around from the start. I too am aware of tolerances +/- and I did wonder if my original
one might be getting a bit worn and need retiring, well I’m not going to retire it anytime soon, it can continue into old age. I just wish I’d bought more spares because the two new ones cost me the best part of £60 between them and I can’t get a refund on
them.
On 19 Jan 2023, at 15:47, Cat - N via groups.io <navillusc@...> wrote:
Now you've got me wondering...drat it all!!!
Back in December, my 15000 threw a huge thread nest tantrum and held the 'flipper' hostage, and the 'culprit' seemed to be the original yellow dot bobbin case, so I am now using a spare yellow dot bobbin case, and had already decided to
get it an annual service and have them check the little 'flipper' for proper functioning after the abuse it took. However, I have held off because of all the projects I am trying to finish first...and now a long time dear friend is getting another new grandbaby
so I've completed two crib sheets, two toddler size pillowcases, a soft book, and have only the quilting on the baby quilt that matches everything yet to do...unless I do follow though on my thoughts of making a reading pillow, too. But...my 15000 seems very
'noisy' to me, compared to how quiet it was with the original yellow dot bobbin case in there...'why'...I WILL be taking it 'somewhere' to have it looked at...eventually.
But, having worked in a high tech manufacturing industry, and having retired after 30+ years as a 'computer guy' in the I.T. Departments of several companies...often the ONLY 'IT guy' there controlling their entire network...after 'microcomputers
and programming was a previous hobby and why I switched careers into the computers world...I am well aware that specifications for (I'd guess) ALL manufactured products include a "+/- tolerance" so that the products are PRETTY DARN NEAR the same when at the
end of the production line. That doesn't mean that some aren't on the 'near side' of that tolerance while others are on the 'far side' of that tolerance, so 'some' might work fine in certain cases where 'others' would fail under the same circumstances.
So, I am VERY CURIOUS, and would love to hear of any addition information that comes to light regarding the 'new' bobbin cases vs the 'original equipment' bobbin cases. I think I have a couple more yellow dot spare bobbin cases, so if I
can manage it...time wise...I am now thinking of trying the other spares to see if I think they are noisier/quieter, etc.
Golly...so easy to expand to To Do list...but I so LOVE my 15000!!!
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:21 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Lyn, I think you have a valid question to send Janome. Perhaps they changed manufacturers for the bobbin cases and there is something just a few mm off with the newly manufactured parts. I read carefully what you stated about these bobbin cases and it seems
to me that there is something "off" with the new ones. They should know this because if this is the case this will really give their entire line of machines a bad name.
Years ago with my 10000, I had to replace a bobbin case and never had a problem as you are having with new ones now. That just doesn't sound right.
Keep us posted on what they say if you inquire about this ... bobbin cases are not inexpensive either.
Pat
On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM Lyn Quine < lynquine@...> wrote:
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one. The new
one came from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun in the
machine and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back in and
it’s worked and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of the cost
of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated' down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this
very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
--
Favymtz
|
|
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 19, 2023 at 11:59 AM, < Lyn Quine> wrote:
I made sure to buy my bobbin cases via a dealer on eBay, one I’ve used before, and then from Janome UK direct because there was a warning that on Amazon some of the bobbin cases weren’t being made under license (for want of a better word) but we’re generic
made in China. Yes I know the ‘licensed’ ones are probably made in China and possibly in the same factory but they weren’t up to spec, sold without the Janome packaging. Which is worrying because I’ve had feet and the bobbin case from Janome not in the packaging.
On 19 Jan 2023, at 16:33, Cat - N via groups.io <navillusc@...> wrote:
No refunds on my spares (USA) either, but I recall seeing PN's on the metal 'bottom' of 'some' of my spare bobbin cases (all colors of dots)...just not sure which cases had PN's etched into them. I would absolutely still be using my original
yellow dot bobbin case except it would not seat into the machine, so I have no choice to use a 'spare' bobbin case...noisy or not...and my main concern 'was' that the 'flipper' might not be measuring thread remaining on the bobbin and/or might be responsible
for any new 'noise level' I 'think' I am hearing...hence a pending shop visit. To be honest, I am now wishing I had put calipers on them, weighed them both...etc...but I threw out the original yellow dot bobbin case to avoid accidentally trying to use it
after that huge calamity. But...IF...Janome is having bobbin cases made by a different manufacturer, it is highly possible that some little something different IS causing problems in at least SOME 15000 machines...and I say that KNOWING that we had a printer
go up in smoke overnight in a (closed) pub in England because Mallory changed their Mallory capacitors and they leaked afterward, and when mounted on our mainboards, those Mallory capacitors,
mounted in the orientation OUR boards required, that leak onto the circuit etch resulted in fire inside our printers for our customers! (...but no one else had a problem...LOL)
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Lyn Quine <lynquine@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:57 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Cat. It would seem the newer cases with the part numbers etched into the base are the ones that might be a problem, my original one is quiet, the new ones they clatter around from the start. I too am aware of tolerances +/- and I did wonder if my original
one might be getting a bit worn and need retiring, well I’m not going to retire it anytime soon, it can continue into old age. I just wish I’d bought more spares because the two new ones cost me the best part of £60 between them and I can’t get a refund on
them.
On 19 Jan 2023, at 15:47, Cat - N via groups.io <navillusc@...> wrote:
Now you've got me wondering...drat it all!!!
Back in December, my 15000 threw a huge thread nest tantrum and held the 'flipper' hostage, and the 'culprit' seemed to be the original yellow dot bobbin case, so I am now using a spare yellow dot bobbin case, and had already decided to
get it an annual service and have them check the little 'flipper' for proper functioning after the abuse it took. However, I have held off because of all the projects I am trying to finish first...and now a long time dear friend is getting another new grandbaby
so I've completed two crib sheets, two toddler size pillowcases, a soft book, and have only the quilting on the baby quilt that matches everything yet to do...unless I do follow though on my thoughts of making a reading pillow, too. But...my 15000 seems very
'noisy' to me, compared to how quiet it was with the original yellow dot bobbin case in there...'why'...I WILL be taking it 'somewhere' to have it looked at...eventually.
But, having worked in a high tech manufacturing industry, and having retired after 30+ years as a 'computer guy' in the I.T. Departments of several companies...often the ONLY 'IT guy' there controlling their entire network...after 'microcomputers
and programming was a previous hobby and why I switched careers into the computers world...I am well aware that specifications for (I'd guess) ALL manufactured products include a "+/- tolerance" so that the products are PRETTY DARN NEAR the same when at the
end of the production line. That doesn't mean that some aren't on the 'near side' of that tolerance while others are on the 'far side' of that tolerance, so 'some' might work fine in certain cases where 'others' would fail under the same circumstances.
So, I am VERY CURIOUS, and would love to hear of any addition information that comes to light regarding the 'new' bobbin cases vs the 'original equipment' bobbin cases. I think I have a couple more yellow dot spare bobbin cases, so if I
can manage it...time wise...I am now thinking of trying the other spares to see if I think they are noisier/quieter, etc.
Golly...so easy to expand to To Do list...but I so LOVE my 15000!!!
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 10:21 am
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
Lyn, I think you have a valid question to send Janome. Perhaps they changed manufacturers for the bobbin cases and there is something just a few mm off with the newly manufactured parts. I read carefully what you stated about these bobbin cases and it seems
to me that there is something "off" with the new ones. They should know this because if this is the case this will really give their entire line of machines a bad name.
Years ago with my 10000, I had to replace a bobbin case and never had a problem as you are having with new ones now. That just doesn't sound right.
Keep us posted on what they say if you inquire about this ... bobbin cases are not inexpensive either.
Pat
On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM Lyn Quine < lynquine@...> wrote:
I’ve had my 15000 for over 6 years, I am still using my original yellow dot case, I tried replacing it with a new bobbin case because my original had a needle strike, which I filed down, but I didn’t want to risk problems so bought a new one. The new
one came from a dealer I’ve used before via eBay, I put it in the machine (correctly) I’m experienced enough after all these years to put it in and line it up with the little spring and the red arrow, and seating the bobbin, within an hour it had spun in the
machine and jammed. I got it out with care and ordered another from Janome UK to ensure I got the correct one. That was put in the machine and again within a very short period of time it had lifted. Each time I’ve put my original yellow dot back in and
it’s worked and is still working, no spinning, no lifting. I’ve only used Janome bobbins, I did try generic prewounds and gave them away, having tried just one, I then found Janome prewounds, I’ve now gone back to winding my own bobbins, because of the cost
of prewounds.
If there isn’t a problem with the bobbin cases why does my original one, from before I upgraded it to quiltmaker, the one purchased with the machine work perfectly well, but the new ones with the part number etched into the bottoms, don’t work well. It
is the correct part number for the V2 upgraded, a different part number is needed for the V3 quiltmaker machines
I’ve always ‘seated’ the bobbins correctly, I had a 12000 before the 15 and I have a 350e, so seating the bobbin is not a new thing to me, the only bobbin cases to cause me problems are the new ones for the 15000.
I'm going to pipe in here about spinning bobbin cases. It's true that a spinning bobbin case will wreak havoc on the hook race etc. as John describes. In my experience the reason it happens in the first place is what needs to be addressed.
It's because we don't seat the bobbin in the bobbin holder when we change the bobbin.
What does it mean to seat it? (I call it that, I don't know if it's a technical term or not).
Place the bobbin in the holder in the correct way, pulling the thread through the tension. Then put a little pressure on the bobbin and give it a jiggle to make sure that it's 'seated' down in there.
If we don't do this, when the machine starts sewing, the upper thread will yank on the bobbin thread and it pulls the bobbin and the bobbin holder up causing the jam.
If you don't already do this, get into the habit please!
This is the number 1 problem that people complain about on the FaceBook groups, describing how they have to keep buying the expensive bobbin holders, and it bugs me no end that the people teaching Janome users how to use their new machines don't stress this
very important step in threading our machines.
Favymtz
At some point you may have had a bird nest or broken needle that nicked the hook race, the metal basket that the bobbin case rides on. Once that happens, thread will catch on the burr or nick, preventing the stitch from being drawn up tight.
That leaves a loop hanging down that snags the next stitch, and in seconds you have jam that will pop the case, and sometimes even the needle plate. Many technicians don't check for this. They may blame the user, but they are not shy about selling another
bobbin case. Until the damage to the hook race is fixed, you will have the problem over and over. There's also the possibility of damage to the stopper that keeps the bobbin case from spinning. Here's what you should do:
1. Remove the needle plate and bobbin case. Use strong light, and maybe a magnifying glass, to examine the narrow edge that the bobbin case sits on. You are looking for scratches, pits, gouges - anything rough. If there is actually a notch or gouge in the edge
you may need a new hook race. Other damage can be polished out using the Janome tool (part #OILSTONE). Your dealer may have it, or may not.
2. With the bobbin case installed, check the position and condition of the stopper, as shown here. The bobbin case and stopper should look exactly like the area pointed to by the red arrow.
<bobbincase.jpeg>
You may need to take the machine in again to correct the problem. If you do, before taking it home remove the plate and bobbin case. Pass a piece of easily-snagged fabric around the inside of the metal hook race the bobbin case rides on. If there is a snag,
it's not fixed yet and will continue to cause trouble. Also have a look at the white plastic base at the bottom of the hook race. If it's gouged up or deeply scratched it should be replaced.
--
Favymtz
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SewingRose <newbuild2012@...>
Favymtz, the bobbin jiggle is something I've done since buying my very first Janome 6000 when it was first released in the early 80's, and I've never had a jumping bobbin case or needle strike either, nor have I had to replace a bobbin case.
Nobody told me to do it, it's just something I started doing and have done for 40 years and back when I was teaching sewing/patchwork/quilting/etc I passed this onto students as well. Another thing I do is flip the bobbin case over and place a tiny drop of oil on the shoulder of the bobbin case then smear it around that edge with your finger tip...not a lot of oil (don't drown it) but just enough to make the bobbin case glide smoothly, plus it keeps the machine quiet. Too much oil can be as bad as no oil.
Learning the sounds of a dry bobbin case and/or blunt needle make a huge difference to sewing results and keeps our machines running in tip-top condition. Embroidery machines do a whole lot more stitching than regular sewing, therefore need TLC more often.
I've also used prewound bobbins since my first embroidery machine (9000) for the last 20+ years. Initially only white or black were available but good old eBay led me to a lady in the US who was selling boxes of Coats and ?Robinson (not in my sewing room just now, but will check later) prewounds in many colours. They were one gross boxes and to save on shipping costs I bought a box of each colour (13) then she filled a last box with mixed colours which came from broken boxes and in shorter supply, so I ended up with 14 gross of prewounds which took 3 months to arrive because at that time they came by sea, which was the cheapest international shipping option for larger or heavier items.
So I have only ever made that one purchase of prewounds and will have enough to see me through. At times I've sold some and always include a selection when I sell an embroidery machine, after upgrading to the next. Being able to colour-match bobbin thread when embroidering items such as bath towels etc has been good and I've even done FSL (free standing lace) using a coloured prewound in both top and bobbin, so the lace ends up being much finer. I have also used them in the overlocker when I wanted to do a rolled hem on some very fine fabric and the result was perfect and, of course, having the exact colour was an added bonus.
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SewingRose and Favy, I too have/had the 6000 since the 80's. I bought an updated smaller and lighter Janome to take to classes and gave it to my daughter or I would still be enjoying it! I've always done the bobbin wiggle too and never had an issue with the bobbin jumping or anything of that sort either.
Ceil
Favymtz, the bobbin jiggle is something I've done since buying my very first Janome 6000 when it was first released in the early 80's, and I've never had a jumping bobbin case or needle strike either, nor have I had to replace a bobbin case.
Nobody told me to do it, it's just something I started doing and have done for 40 years and back when I was teaching sewing/patchwork/quilting/etc I passed this onto students as well. Another thing I do is flip the bobbin case over and place a tiny drop of oil on the shoulder of the bobbin case then smear it around that edge with your finger tip...not a lot of oil (don't drown it) but just enough to make the bobbin case glide smoothly, plus it keeps the machine quiet. Too much oil can be as bad as no oil.
Learning the sounds of a dry bobbin case and/or blunt needle make a huge difference to sewing results and keeps our machines running in tip-top condition. Embroidery machines do a whole lot more stitching than regular sewing, therefore need TLC more often.
I've also used prewound bobbins since my first embroidery machine (9000) for the last 20+ years. Initially only white or black were available but good old eBay led me to a lady in the US who was selling boxes of Coats and ?Robinson (not in my sewing room just now, but will check later) prewounds in many colours. They were one gross boxes and to save on shipping costs I bought a box of each colour (13) then she filled a last box with mixed colours which came from broken boxes and in shorter supply, so I ended up with 14 gross of prewounds which took 3 months to arrive because at that time they came by sea, which was the cheapest international shipping option for larger or heavier items.
So I have only ever made that one purchase of prewounds and will have enough to see me through. At times I've sold some and always include a selection when I sell an embroidery machine, after upgrading to the next. Being able to colour-match bobbin thread when embroidering items such as bath towels etc has been good and I've even done FSL (free standing lace) using a coloured prewound in both top and bobbin, so the lace ends up being much finer. I have also used them in the overlocker when I wanted to do a rolled hem on some very fine fabric and the result was perfect and, of course, having the exact colour was an added bonus.
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Has anyone ever tried Peavytailor prewound bobbins in their 15000. I found them on Amazon but am a leery of putting something in my machine I don’t know anything about. I looked for anything Coats but only found black and white Coats and Clark.
Thanks
On Jan 19, 2023, at 5:19 PM, SewingRose <newbuild2012@...> wrote:
Favymtz, the bobbin jiggle is something I've done since buying my very first Janome 6000 when it was first released in the early 80's, and I've never had a jumping bobbin case or needle strike either, nor have I had to replace a bobbin case.
Nobody told me to do it, it's just something I started doing and have done for 40 years and back when I was teaching sewing/patchwork/quilting/etc I passed this onto students as well. Another thing I do is flip the bobbin case over and place a tiny drop of oil on the shoulder of the bobbin case then smear it around that edge with your finger tip...not a lot of oil (don't drown it) but just enough to make the bobbin case glide smoothly, plus it keeps the machine quiet. Too much oil can be as bad as no oil.
Learning the sounds of a dry bobbin case and/or blunt needle make a huge difference to sewing results and keeps our machines running in tip-top condition. Embroidery machines do a whole lot more stitching than regular sewing, therefore need TLC more often.
I've also used prewound bobbins since my first embroidery machine (9000) for the last 20+ years. Initially only white or black were available but good old eBay led me to a lady in the US who was selling boxes of Coats and ?Robinson (not in my sewing room just now, but will check later) prewounds in many colours. They were one gross boxes and to save on shipping costs I bought a box of each colour (13) then she filled a last box with mixed colours which came from broken boxes and in shorter supply, so I ended up with 14 gross of prewounds which took 3 months to arrive because at that time they came by sea, which was the cheapest international shipping option for larger or heavier items.
So I have only ever made that one purchase of prewounds and will have enough to see me through. At times I've sold some and always include a selection when I sell an embroidery machine, after upgrading to the next. Being able to colour-match bobbin thread when embroidering items such as bath towels etc has been good and I've even done FSL (free standing lace) using a coloured prewound in both top and bobbin, so the lace ends up being much finer. I have also used them in the overlocker when I wanted to do a rolled hem on some very fine fabric and the result was perfect and, of course, having the exact colour was an added bonus.
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Has anyone ever tried Peavytailor prewound bobbins in their 15000. I found them on Amazon but am a leery of putting something in my machine I don’t know anything about. I looked for anything Coats but only found black and white Coats and Clark.
Thanks
Fiona
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I won’t use anything but genuine Janome prewounds in my machine. You can get them from a dealer. There is a dealer in Va by the name of Amy who sells the boxes of 144 white Janome prewounds for a reasonable price.
On Jan 19, 2023, at 7:44 PM, Fiona Taylor-Williams <f.taylorwilliams@...> wrote:
Has anyone ever tried Peavytailor prewound bobbins in their 15000. I found them on Amazon but am a leery of putting something in my machine I don’t know anything about. I looked for anything Coats but only found black and white Coats and Clark.
Thanks Fiona On Jan 19, 2023, at 5:19 PM, SewingRose <newbuild2012@...> wrote:
Favymtz, the bobbin jiggle is something I've done since buying my very first Janome 6000 when it was first released in the early 80's, and I've never had a jumping bobbin case or needle strike either, nor have I had to replace a bobbin case.
Nobody told me to do it, it's just something I started doing and have done for 40 years and back when I was teaching sewing/patchwork/quilting/etc I passed this onto students as well. Another thing I do is flip the bobbin case over and place a tiny drop of oil on the shoulder of the bobbin case then smear it around that edge with your finger tip...not a lot of oil (don't drown it) but just enough to make the bobbin case glide smoothly, plus it keeps the machine quiet. Too much oil can be as bad as no oil.
Learning the sounds of a dry bobbin case and/or blunt needle make a huge difference to sewing results and keeps our machines running in tip-top condition. Embroidery machines do a whole lot more stitching than regular sewing, therefore need TLC more often.
I've also used prewound bobbins since my first embroidery machine (9000) for the last 20+ years. Initially only white or black were available but good old eBay led me to a lady in the US who was selling boxes of Coats and ?Robinson (not in my sewing room just now, but will check later) prewounds in many colours. They were one gross boxes and to save on shipping costs I bought a box of each colour (13) then she filled a last box with mixed colours which came from broken boxes and in shorter supply, so I ended up with 14 gross of prewounds which took 3 months to arrive because at that time they came by sea, which was the cheapest international shipping option for larger or heavier items.
So I have only ever made that one purchase of prewounds and will have enough to see me through. At times I've sold some and always include a selection when I sell an embroidery machine, after upgrading to the next. Being able to colour-match bobbin thread when embroidering items such as bath towels etc has been good and I've even done FSL (free standing lace) using a coloured prewound in both top and bobbin, so the lace ends up being much finer. I have also used them in the overlocker when I wanted to do a rolled hem on some very fine fabric and the result was perfect and, of course, having the exact colour was an added bonus.
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Interesting...I only use Janome prewounds, but the only ones I have seen for sale were sold in a quantity of 108...not 144.
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 7:47 pm
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
I won’t use anything but genuine Janome prewounds in my machine. You can get them from a dealer. There is a dealer in Va by the name of Amy who sells the boxes of 144 white Janome prewounds for a reasonable price.
Pat
On Jan 19, 2023, at 7:44 PM, Fiona Taylor-Williams <f.taylorwilliams@...> wrote:
Has anyone ever tried Peavytailor prewound bobbins in their 15000. I found them on Amazon but am a leery of putting something in my machine I don’t know anything about. I looked for anything Coats but only found black and white Coats and Clark.
Thanks
Fiona
On Jan 19, 2023, at 5:19 PM, SewingRose <newbuild2012@...> wrote:
Favymtz, the bobbin jiggle is something I've done since buying my very first Janome 6000 when it was first released in the early 80's, and I've never had a jumping bobbin case or needle strike either, nor have I had to replace a bobbin case.
Nobody told me to do it, it's just something I started doing and have done for 40 years and back when I was teaching sewing/patchwork/quilting/etc I passed this onto students as well. Another thing I do is flip the bobbin case over and place a tiny drop of oil on the shoulder of the bobbin case then smear it around that edge with your finger tip...not a lot of oil (don't drown it) but just enough to make the bobbin case glide smoothly, plus it keeps the machine quiet. Too much oil can be as bad as no oil.
Learning the sounds of a dry bobbin case and/or blunt needle make a huge difference to sewing results and keeps our machines running in tip-top condition. Embroidery machines do a whole lot more stitching than regular sewing, therefore need TLC more often.
I've also used prewound bobbins since my first embroidery machine (9000) for the last 20+ years. Initially only white or black were available but good old eBay led me to a lady in the US who was selling boxes of Coats and ?Robinson (not in my sewing room just now, but will check later) prewounds in many colours. They were one gross boxes and to save on shipping costs I bought a box of each colour (13) then she filled a last box with mixed colours which came from broken boxes and in shorter supply, so I ended up with 14 gross of prewounds which took 3 months to arrive because at that time they came by sea, which was the cheapest international shipping option for larger or heavier items.
So I have only ever made that one purchase of prewounds and will have enough to see me through. At times I've sold some and always include a selection when I sell an embroidery machine, after upgrading to the next. Being able to colour-match bobbin thread when embroidering items such as bath towels etc has been good and I've even done FSL (free standing lace) using a coloured prewound in both top and bobbin, so the lace ends up being much finer. I have also used them in the overlocker when I wanted to do a rolled hem on some very fine fabric and the result was perfect and, of course, having the exact colour was an added bonus.
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Cat, my mistake! I looked at the box and it is 108 that I bought. Sorry, it is so many that I just thought it was the 144.
On Jan 19, 2023, at 8:12 PM, Cat - N via groups.io <navillusc@...> wrote:
Interesting...I only use Janome prewounds, but the only ones I have seen for sale were sold in a quantity of 108...not 144.
- Cat (FL)
-----Original Message-----
From: Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...>
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jan 19, 2023 7:47 pm
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] 15000 bobbin case spinning...
I won’t use anything but genuine Janome prewounds in my machine. You can get them from a dealer. There is a dealer in Va by the name of Amy who sells the boxes of 144 white Janome prewounds for a reasonable price.
Pat
On Jan 19, 2023, at 7:44 PM, Fiona Taylor-Williams <f.taylorwilliams@...> wrote:
Has anyone ever tried Peavytailor prewound bobbins in their 15000. I found them on Amazon but am a leery of putting something in my machine I don’t know anything about. I looked for anything Coats but only found black and white Coats and Clark.
Thanks
Fiona
On Jan 19, 2023, at 5:19 PM, SewingRose <newbuild2012@...> wrote:
Favymtz, the bobbin jiggle is something I've done since buying my very first Janome 6000 when it was first released in the early 80's, and I've never had a jumping bobbin case or needle strike either, nor have I had to replace a bobbin case.
Nobody told me to do it, it's just something I started doing and have done for 40 years and back when I was teaching sewing/patchwork/quilting/etc I passed this onto students as well. Another thing I do is flip the bobbin case over and place a tiny drop of oil on the shoulder of the bobbin case then smear it around that edge with your finger tip...not a lot of oil (don't drown it) but just enough to make the bobbin case glide smoothly, plus it keeps the machine quiet. Too much oil can be as bad as no oil.
Learning the sounds of a dry bobbin case and/or blunt needle make a huge difference to sewing results and keeps our machines running in tip-top condition. Embroidery machines do a whole lot more stitching than regular sewing, therefore need TLC more often.
I've also used prewound bobbins since my first embroidery machine (9000) for the last 20+ years. Initially only white or black were available but good old eBay led me to a lady in the US who was selling boxes of Coats and ?Robinson (not in my sewing room just now, but will check later) prewounds in many colours. They were one gross boxes and to save on shipping costs I bought a box of each colour (13) then she filled a last box with mixed colours which came from broken boxes and in shorter supply, so I ended up with 14 gross of prewounds which took 3 months to arrive because at that time they came by sea, which was the cheapest international shipping option for larger or heavier items.
So I have only ever made that one purchase of prewounds and will have enough to see me through. At times I've sold some and always include a selection when I sell an embroidery machine, after upgrading to the next. Being able to colour-match bobbin thread when embroidering items such as bath towels etc has been good and I've even done FSL (free standing lace) using a coloured prewound in both top and bobbin, so the lace ends up being much finer. I have also used them in the overlocker when I wanted to do a rolled hem on some very fine fabric and the result was perfect and, of course, having the exact colour was an added bonus.
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