Size of embroidery unit


Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

Hi All

I'm trying to work out how much space I need in my sewing studio for either the 12000 or the 15000 (now I am leaning towards the 15000, earlier this week the 12000 - decisions, decisions!)

I've read the specs for both machines and the width of the machines are given with and without embroidery units - but what I can't find is the additonal space you need behind the machine with the embroidery arm open.  Could somebody tell me the full width from the front to the back of both machines including the arm when it's open?

I currently have a sewing cabinet which is 20ins out from the wall - the cabinet itself is about 18ins wide so there is no trouble fitting either machine on it - even though they are longer than the adjustable shelf to lower a machine (which is only 18ins long) so it will just have to sit on top and I will need to get something to raise my seat height.  I have an adjustable chair but it's on it's max at the moment as I am very short - just 5ft.  I'm thinking I may have to fit a larger top on the cabinet to accomodate the large table with the machine (though there may be enough room to support the legs maybe), even if it's just a temporary piece on top, but won't look at that until I've bought it anyway.

The cabinet is on wheels so can easily be moved further out from the wall to accommodate the embroidery unit open, and then pushed back in when it's closed - always assuming I don't have that large temporary piece on top for the additional machine table - I would just like to know how far it would need to come into the room. 

I would have no problem lifting the machine around - I have several vintage machines which weigh just as much and I move them back and fore into the cabinet as desired. 

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Pushing away from the wall, Jim says:
If you have 18 inches from the back of the machine to the wall you'll be fine. Both machines have the same carriage, which is 17.5 inches from the back of the machine to the end.


Tony Coley
 


the machine is also 34 in. wide with the embroidery arm fully extended. This includes the room for the power cord and foot control plug-ins.
Have a happy sewing day.
Tony in HOT Alabama


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 6:41 AM, "Anne Parker annegparker@... [janome12000]" wrote:


 
Hi All

I'm trying to work out how much space I need in my sewing studio for either the 12000 or the 15000 (now I am leaning towards the 15000, earlier this week the 12000 - decisions, decisions!)

I've read the specs for both machines and the width of the machines are given with and without embroidery units - but what I can't find is the additonal space you need behind the machine with the embroidery arm open.  Could somebody tell me the full width from the front to the back of both machines including the arm when it's open?

I currently have a sewing cabinet which is 20ins out from the wall - the cabinet itself is about 18ins wide so there is no trouble fitting either machine on it - even though they are longer than the adjustable shelf to lower a machine (which is only 18ins long) so it will just have to sit on top and I will need to get something to raise my seat height.  I have an adjustable chair but it's on it's max at the moment as I am very short - just 5ft.  I'm thinking I may have to fit a larger top on the cabinet to accomodate the large table with the machine (though there may be enough room to support the legs maybe), even if it's just a temporary piece on top, but won't look at that until I've bought it anyway.

The cabinet is on wheels so can easily be moved further out from the wall to accommodate the embroidery unit open, and then pushed back in when it's closed - always assuming I don't have that large temporary piece on top for the additional machine table - I would just like to know how far it would need to come into the room. 

I would have no problem lifting the machine around - I have several vintage machines which weigh just as much and I move them back and fore into the cabinet as desired. 

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Pushing away from the wall, Jim says:
If you have 18 inches from the back of the machine to the wall you'll be fine. Both machines have the same carriage, which is 17.5 inches from the back of the machine to the end.



Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

Tony

I don't understand where you are gettting that measurement from.

The advertising literature for the 15000 states -
Size with embroidery unit:
W 24.6” x H 12.7” x D 14.6” (W 624 x H 322 x D 370 mm)
• Size without embroidery unit:
W 24.6” x H 12.7” x D 10.1” (W 624 x H 322 x D 257 mm)

I've just found and downloaded and read the manual from here - http://content.janome.com/index.cfm/WhatsNew/Machine_Manuals

Page 104 states that the embrodiery unit when open needs an additional 13ins depth - so that makes the total depth with open embroidery unit 14.6 + 13 = 27.6 ins - unless my maths is wrong!

Whilst the machine is 24.6 ins wide it shows that the embroidery unit when open needs 28.75 ins of width space - so to me that means it takes up a total space of 28.75 ins wide and 27.6 ins deep? - so I'm thinking if I allow 30ins width by 30ins depth it would fit in fine?  - but maybe the start of the measurement for the embroidery unit is over a little bit from the left hand side which is why you say 34ins wide?

It's only the depth that is important to me anyway as it will be sitting on top of an open sewing cabinet.  Either one like this I bought off ebay -  http://www.hornfurniture.co.uk/cub-plus/ (I never close it) or my original one bought for my old Elna - http://www.hornfurniture.co.uk/nova/ - which unfortunatey has the small opening and gas lift, not the large one they do now (wonder if they can send me a new top!).  Since the whole open cabinet will be moved out from the wall for the embroidery function there will be more than enough room for the unit to move to the left.

By the way I find the manual ok as a pdf as you can search for anything you want - but there is one thing - I think it is very condescending just to mention using a red top needle, or a purple topped needle or saying only to use the twin needle supplied.  Surely it would be much more positive and enabling to actually state the needle sizes and types and explain about what size gap you can use on your twin needle - I know it sort of gives this in a chart early on but just mentions the colours all the way through the manual as far as I have read.  Just my thoughts. :0)

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


On 14 August 2014 13:36, Tony Coley coleyct@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 


the machine is also 34 in. wide with the embroidery arm fully extended. This includes the room for the power cord and foot control plug-ins.
Have a happy sewing day.
Tony in HOT Alabama


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 6:41 AM, "Anne Parker annegparker@... [janome12000]" <janome12000@...> wrote:


 
Hi All

I'm trying to work out how much space I need in my sewing studio for either the 12000 or the 15000 (now I am leaning towards the 15000, earlier this week the 12000 - decisions, decisions!)

I've read the specs for both machines and the width of the machines are given with and without embroidery units - but what I can't find is the additonal space you need behind the machine with the embroidery arm open.  Could somebody tell me the full width from the front to the back of both machines including the arm when it's open?

I currently have a sewing cabinet which is 20ins out from the wall - the cabinet itself is about 18ins wide so there is no trouble fitting either machine on it - even though they are longer than the adjustable shelf to lower a machine (which is only 18ins long) so it will just have to sit on top and I will need to get something to raise my seat height.  I have an adjustable chair but it's on it's max at the moment as I am very short - just 5ft.  I'm thinking I may have to fit a larger top on the cabinet to accomodate the large table with the machine (though there may be enough room to support the legs maybe), even if it's just a temporary piece on top, but won't look at that until I've bought it anyway.

The cabinet is on wheels so can easily be moved further out from the wall to accommodate the embroidery unit open, and then pushed back in when it's closed - always assuming I don't have that large temporary piece on top for the additional machine table - I would just like to know how far it would need to come into the room. 

I would have no problem lifting the machine around - I have several vintage machines which weigh just as much and I move them back and fore into the cabinet as desired. 

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Pushing away from the wall, Jim says:
If you have 18 inches from the back of the machine to the wall you'll be fine. Both machines have the same carriage, which is 17.5 inches from the back of the machine to the end.




Cheryl Paul
 

Hi Anne,
My sewing unit is a built into the wall affair, custom made by my deceased cousin in law, so rather precious to me now.  He made it the same as a regulation kitchen counter top which I believe is about 24" deep.  When I got my 12000 and put it on the counter it wasn't deep enough to open the arm, so my hubby took off the counter top and put about an 8" extension to the back, did a patch work on the arborite with a left over scrap and all is well.  I'd even be OK with a couple more inches but don't really need that either - at least for the present.
I think the measurement of the machine and the open are is 27" so that is the area you need.
Cheryl - Saskatoon


Tony Coley
 

If you open the emb. arm, then slide the carriage as far left as it will go, thenmeasure from the end of the arm back to the power cdord you will see 37 in. You must insure you have that space to the left of the machine for movement of the emb. arm.
Happy measuring.


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 12:37 PM, "capaul@... [janome12000]" wrote:


 
Hi Anne,
My sewing unit is a built into the wall affair, custom made by my deceased cousin in law, so rather precious to me now.  He made it the same as a regulation kitchen counter top which I believe is about 24" deep.  When I got my 12000 and put it on the counter it wasn't deep enough to open the arm, so my hubby took off the counter top and put about an 8" extension to the back, did a patch work on the arborite with a left over scrap and all is well.  I'd even be OK with a couple more inches but don't really need that either - at least for the present.
I think the measurement of the machine and the open are is 27" so that is the area you need.
Cheryl - Saskatoon



Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

Thanks Tony

I'm just surprized that the sizes you need to operate the machine fully aren't mentioned any where in the specs as far as I can see - but maybe I am expecting too much! :0)

Anne
​ in Stuggington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Tony Coley
 

Couldn't agree more. That's Marketing 101 to provide ONLY the minimum "foot print". The potential customer looks for dimensions, measure the space where they intend to place the machine, make their purchase then find out that it won't really fit in that space.
We have the machine on display and when a potential customer is allowed to "sit and sew", our sales people are very careful to point out the "Real" dimensions. 
We have actually sold some new cabinets because a buyer will "dress up" another place for the machine.
Gotta love our customers.
Have a great day except it must be close to nightfall for you.
Tony


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:13 PM, "Anne Parker annegparker@... [janome12000]" wrote:


 
Thanks Tony

I'm just surprized that the sizes you need to operate the machine fully aren't mentioned any where in the specs as far as I can see - but maybe I am expecting too much! :0)

Anne
​ in Stuggington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann



Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

Thanks Tony

Not sure what time you sent your message but it's only nearly 7pm here.  You will see my post re the space I'm sorting out.  Many thanks for the max space guidance - it has helped enormously.

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


On 15 August 2014 13:38, Tony Coley coleyct@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

Couldn't agree more. That's Marketing 101 to provide ONLY the minimum "foot print". The potential customer looks for dimensions, measure the space where they intend to place the machine, make their purchase then find out that it won't really fit in that space.
We have the machine on display and when a potential customer is allowed to "sit and sew", our sales people are very careful to point out the "Real" dimensions. 
We have actually sold some new cabinets because a buyer will "dress up" another place for the machine.
Gotta love our customers.
Have a great day except it must be close to nightfall for you.
Tony


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 2:13 PM, "Anne Parker annegparker@... [janome12000]" <janome12000@...> wrote:


 
Thanks Tony

I'm just surprized that the sizes you need to operate the machine fully aren't mentioned any where in the specs as far as I can see - but maybe I am expecting too much! :0)

Anne
​ in Stuggington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann




Claire Schutz
 

Just measured mine, 30 front to end of opened  emb arm with the extension table attached.  This is what you will need.  You will need the extension table which is included with the machine and it has feet and extends 4" in front of the machine.   However, the arm can over-hang in the back, just make sure it is not hitting anything.  My table is 20" deep (front to back).   Claire S.



On 8/14/2014 10:38 AM, Anne Parker annegparker@... [janome12000] wrote:

 
Tony

I don't understand where you are gettting that measurement from.

The advertising literature for the 15000 states -
Size with embroidery unit:
W 24.6” x H 12.7” x D 14.6” (W 624 x H 322 x D 370 mm)
• Size without embroidery unit:
W 24.6” x H 12.7” x D 10.1” (W 624 x H 322 x D 257 mm)

I've just found and downloaded and read the manual from here - http://content.janome.com/index.cfm/WhatsNew/Machine_Manuals

Page 104 states that the embrodiery unit when open needs an additional 13ins depth - so that makes the total depth with open embroidery unit 14.6 + 13 = 27.6 ins - unless my maths is wrong!

Whilst the machine is 24.6 ins wide it shows that the embroidery unit when open needs 28.75 ins of width space - so to me that means it takes up a total space of 28.75 ins wide and 27.6 ins deep? - so I'm thinking if I allow 30ins width by 30ins depth it would fit in fine?  - but maybe the start of the measurement for the embroidery unit is over a little bit from the left hand side which is why you say 34ins wide?

It's only the depth that is important to me anyway as it will be sitting on top of an open sewing cabinet.  Either one like this I bought off ebay -  http://www.hornfurniture.co.uk/cub-plus/ (I never close it) or my original one bought for my old Elna - http://www.hornfurniture.co.uk/nova/ - which unfortunatey has the small opening and gas lift, not the large one they do now (wonder if they can send me a new top!).  Since the whole open cabinet will be moved out from the wall for the embroidery function there will be more than enough room for the unit to move to the left.

By the way I find the manual ok as a pdf as you can search for anything you want - but there is one thing - I think it is very condescending just to mention using a red top needle, or a purple topped needle or saying only to use the twin needle supplied.  Surely it would be much more positive and enabling to actually state the needle sizes and types and explain about what size gap you can use on your twin needle - I know it sort of gives this in a chart early on but just mentions the colours all the way through the manual as far as I have read.  Just my thoughts. :0)

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


On 14 August 2014 13:36, Tony Coley coleyct@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

the machine is also 34 in. wide with the embroidery arm fully extended. This includes the room for the power cord and foot control plug-ins.
Have a happy sewing day.
Tony in HOT Alabama


On Thursday, August 14, 2014 6:41 AM, "Anne Parker annegparker@... [janome12000]" <janome12000@...> wrote:


 
Hi All

I'm trying to work out how much space I need in my sewing studio for either the 12000 or the 15000 (now I am leaning towards the 15000, earlier this week the 12000 - decisions, decisions!)

I've read the specs for both machines and the width of the machines are given with and without embroidery units - but what I can't find is the additonal space you need behind the machine with the embroidery arm open.  Could somebody tell me the full width from the front to the back of both machines including the arm when it's open?

I currently have a sewing cabinet which is 20ins out from the wall - the cabinet itself is about 18ins wide so there is no trouble fitting either machine on it - even though they are longer than the adjustable shelf to lower a machine (which is only 18ins long) so it will just have to sit on top and I will need to get something to raise my seat height.  I have an adjustable chair but it's on it's max at the moment as I am very short - just 5ft.  I'm thinking I may have to fit a larger top on the cabinet to accomodate the large table with the machine (though there may be enough room to support the legs maybe), even if it's just a temporary piece on top, but won't look at that until I've bought it anyway.

The cabinet is on wheels so can easily be moved further out from the wall to accommodate the embroidery unit open, and then pushed back in when it's closed - always assuming I don't have that large temporary piece on top for the additional machine table - I would just like to know how far it would need to come into the room. 

I would have no problem lifting the machine around - I have several vintage machines which weigh just as much and I move them back and fore into the cabinet as desired. 

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Pushing away from the wall, Jim says:
If you have 18 inches from the back of the machine to the wall you'll be fine. Both machines have the same carriage, which is 17.5 inches from the back of the machine to the end.





Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

> - Just measured mine, 30 front to end of opened  emb arm with the extension table attached.  This is what you will need.  You will need the extension table which is included with the machine and it has feet and extends 4" in front of the machine.   However, the arm can over-hang in the back, just make sure it is not hitting anything.  My table is 20" deep (front to back).   Claire S.

Thanks Claire

You may have seen my last post on this subject where I mention I am now going to use our motorhome table which is only 26ins high (great for little old me)  but is 39ins wide by 28ins deep (with the fold up flap at the back of 8ins included).  Normally I will use the table with flap up against the wall with the 20ins depth, then pull it out and flap down when I use the embroidery unit. - but you never know I may just leave it at 28ins which would be good for quilting etc.

As you say since it won't actually be in a cabinet I will need the extension table to use it for sewing/FMQ and if I leave it on the machine for embroidery it will add another 4 ins at the front -  but I can always take that off and put the normally arm back on the machine when using the embroidery unit - but whether I will who knows!

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann


Cheryl Paul
 

Anne,
I just noticed this as I was reading and it may be from a few days ago.  I don't think that it is condescending for Janome to write and promote their needles in the manual.  They are after all testing with their own products and wouldn't advertise for another company - at least I wouldn't if I were in business and had a product that I had created or endorsed.  It might be nice if the size of the needles was listed - I think they are on the package when you purchase replacements.  I know that the blue tip needles are 12 and the red tip are 14, but I don't know what the new purple tip are - I've been told but have forgotten.  What I do know is that the purple tip are recommended if there is trouble with skipped stitches, etc - sort of the "trouble" free needle.  I've never needed it for any trouble as I've always been able to solve those issues before that needle was presented as an option.  I have used them and they seem just as good as the red and blue tip.  I've used Schmetz and Organ (who also make the Janome brand).  With the Schmetz sometimes the needle threader isn't always dead on with them but really no serious issues there either.  I find that if the threader doesn't work on the third try - I do it the old fashioned say - by hand.  I might cuss a bit but I survive just fine as I can still sew.  Now the twin needles that is another story - I don't use them very often but have used wider ones than those in the packet that comes with the machine.  I don't usually use them for decorative stitching but for heirloom sewing to create pintucks.  The wider just can give a bigger pintuck, but I experiment to see what I like.
Cheryl - Saskatoon
> By the way I find the manual ok as a pdf as you can search for 

> anything you want - but there is one thing - I think it is very 
> condescending just to mention using a red top needle, or a purple 
> topped needle or saying only to use the twin needle supplied. Surely 
> it would be much more positive and enabling to actually state the 
> needle sizes and types and explain about what size gap you can use on 
> your twin needle - I know it sort of gives this in a chart early on 
> but just mentions the colours all the way through the manual as far as 
> I have read. Just my thoughts. :0)
>
> Anne
> ​ in Stubbington, UK​


shejmartin1
 

It might be just me, but I swear the Janome blue tip needles are better than Organ and Schmetz, especially for free motion quilting.  The other needles seem just a hair longer and get caught up in the fabric easier.  Also with my 12000 I never have any problem threading the Janome needles, but sometimes have trouble with the others.  I only use Janome now; although I have lots of the other brands left over.
Sherry
Chicago


cmgazerro@...
 

I have same problem .  On occasion non-Janome needles can be threaded.
Carolyn