Bobbin cases


Carole O'Mara
 

I am quilting (a single run purchased design) on a table runner on the 15000 in embroidery mode.  Using the red dot bobbin case, I did a test using the same top, batting and backing and the design looked good front & back.  I did the first block of the runner and it was a mess on the back--loopy, very loose.  I switched to the yellow dot bobbin case and the results were better but certainly not good.  I have not tried the blue dot as it is recommended for FM and has a loose tension.  I am using 40wt variegated thread by Sulky in both top and bobbin.  I'm wondering now if the thread is the culprit, but I've used 40wt top and bottom on other projects with good results.  Which bobbin case  should I use for quilting using embroidery mode?
Thanks, Carole


Jim Stutsman
 

Loops on the back would indicate insufficient TOP tension. The yellow dot case has increased bobbin tension, so it would be wrong for this application. Use the red dot case and try increasing the top tension until you get a good result. If you still have loops use the blue dot case, which has reduced tension. If you still have loops with that case you may have debris in the tension discs. Activate the LOCK function and use a folded strip of fabric to "floss" the tension.


Lyn Quine
 

I may be committing the sin of sins and ultimately shot down in flames, but i would tighten the top tension on the design screen.  When you change designs it will revert to default.  My argument is, if we aren’t supposed to change tension why are we given the ability to do it.  If we aren’t supposed to change the tension we wouldn’t be able to.  I would rather adjust the top tension where I can press a key to change it than turn a screw to adjust a bobbin case where there is no default.  To tighten the top tension go up to loosen go down.  

In my experience.a design can affect tension , i have a set of designs, i have done them on all 3 of my machines, and i have tension problems in the same place on all three machines, one is adjustable the other 2 are auto tension. I think it is the direction of the stitches that are the problem, i now stop the machine on at that point, change the tension, at the end of that section i change it back and i no longer have bobbin thread showing.  


Mary Jo Hirsch
 

I use unwaxed dental floss. Works like a charm

On Thu, Apr 4, 2019 at 5:54 PM onlinesewing via Groups.Io <onlinesewing=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
Loops on the back would indicate insufficient TOP tension. The yellow dot case has increased bobbin tension, so it would be wrong for this application. Use the red dot case and try increasing the top tension until you get a good result. If you still have loops use the blue dot case, which has reduced tension. If you still have loops with that case you may have debris in the tension discs. Activate the LOCK function and use a folded strip of fabric to "floss" the tension.

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Nyssa Lanzafame
 

"Optional Low Tension Bobbin Holder for Janome top loading machine. The low-tension bobbin holder has 20% less tension than the standard holder. If you are experiencing consistent loops on the back of your quilt during free motion quilting, this bobbin holder will help eliminate the problem. You will recognize the low-tension bobbin holder by the blue marking. Also use this bobbin holder for bobbin work and hand-look quilt "  from Janome https://www.janome.com/globalassets/bobbinholderbasics.pdf


i would invest in this bobbin, i did and am happy the cost is very reasonable!!!


bhd02@...
 

Really appreciate all of the above info. and plan to place notes by the machine.


Carole O'Mara
 

Thanks to all for the advice about red dot, yellow dot, blue dot bobbin cases.  I found the problem was with my choice of thread (Sulky 40wt variegated).  My machine does not like it.  I used the red dot bobbin case, changed to 50 wt Aurfil in both top and bobbin, and size 12 needle.  Voila!!  No skipped stitches, nests, loose tension.  The ASQ 22 hoop held the quilt layers together securely.  Thanks again.  
Carole


Elizabeth Mccall
 

HI THERE, I HAD A LOOSE BOBBIN THREAD ON MY 15000, AND MY DEALER FOUND  MY RED DOT CASE WITH BURRS ON IT, CAUSED BY A NEEDLE HITTING IT. 
 I FOUND OUT FROM MY DEALER THAT THE ONLY TIME THE YELLOW CASE MUST BE USED, IS WHEN USING A LIGHT WEIGHT EMBROIDERY THREAD OR JANOME  PRE -WOUND BOBBINS., I FOUND THEM IN  WHITE AND BLACK THREAD . FOR 65 PENNIES EACH  AT MY DEALER. & THEY AR JANOME & CAN BE USED AGAIN. ,
THE BOBBIN FOR A JANOME MUST BE JANOME BRAND, FOUND WITH A LETTER "J" ON THE SHAFT OF THE BOBBIN, SO DON'T BE CHEAP & USE THE REAL ONES.. ALSO NEVER USE A PAPER PRE WOUND BOBBIN.

DOES ANYONE USE  A FAVORITE  SITE FOR EMBROIDERY PATTERNS FOR THE 15000 ? OR FAVORITE SITE FOR MATERIAL. 
THANKS ,  ELIZABETH

On Sat, Apr 6, 2019 at 6:38 PM Carole O'Mara <caroleinco@...> wrote:
Thanks to all for the advice about red dot, yellow dot, blue dot bobbin cases.  I found the problem was with my choice of thread (Sulky 40wt variegated).  My machine does not like it.  I used the red dot bobbin case, changed to 50 wt Aurfil in both top and bobbin, and size 12 needle.  Voila!!  No skipped stitches, nests, loose tension.  The ASQ 22 hoop held the quilt layers together securely.  Thanks again.  
Carole


Narda Poulin
 

I would think twice about using them twice I did that and after I had filled the bobbin as I was trying to put it in the case the side of the bobbin broke off in my hand so it was useless as well as all the bobbin thread on it....it could have been just a fluke but I only use them once...anyone else have that happen?


On Apr 7, 2019, at 4:16 PM, Elizabeth Mccall <mountainlady989@...> wrote:

HI THERE, I HAD A LOOSE BOBBIN THREAD ON MY 15000, AND MY DEALER FOUND  MY RED DOT CASE WITH BURRS ON IT, CAUSED BY A NEEDLE HITTING IT. 
 I FOUND OUT FROM MY DEALER THAT THE ONLY TIME THE YELLOW CASE MUST BE USED, IS WHEN USING A LIGHT WEIGHT EMBROIDERY THREAD OR JANOME  PRE -WOUND BOBBINS., I FOUND THEM IN  WHITE AND BLACK THREAD . FOR 65 PENNIES EACH  AT MY DEALER. & THEY AR JANOME & CAN BE USED AGAIN. ,
THE BOBBIN FOR A JANOME MUST BE JANOME BRAND, FOUND WITH A LETTER "J" ON THE SHAFT OF THE BOBBIN, SO DON'T BE CHEAP & USE THE REAL ONES.. ALSO NEVER USE A PAPER PRE WOUND BOBBIN.

DOES ANYONE USE  A FAVORITE  SITE FOR EMBROIDERY PATTERNS FOR THE 15000 ? OR FAVORITE SITE FOR MATERIAL. 
THANKS ,  ELIZABETH

On Sat, Apr 6, 2019 at 6:38 PM Carole O'Mara <caroleinco@...> wrote:
Thanks to all for the advice about red dot, yellow dot, blue dot bobbin cases.  I found the problem was with my choice of thread (Sulky 40wt variegated).  My machine does not like it.  I used the red dot bobbin case, changed to 50 wt Aurfil in both top and bobbin, and size 12 needle.  Voila!!  No skipped stitches, nests, loose tension.  The ASQ 22 hoop held the quilt layers together securely.  Thanks again.  
Carole


Lyn Quine
 

I haven’t been able to buy Janome prewounds for a few years.  I was told by Janome UK they are no longer for sale which is a shame because they were brilliant, and I was told to use the normal bobbin case because, the normal one is set to the tension for Janome bobbin thread.  The yellow dot is for non Janome thread.  I used to buy them packaged in the Janome packaging.  If they aren’t in the packaging I would be reluctant to buy them.

As far as the Janome bobbins are concerned, I asked Janome UK if the Janome bobbins have the J on them and was told that only those that are sold loose by a dealer have the J, that is so they can be sure they are selling the correct ones as they aren’t packaged in the normal Janome packaging.  I always buy a pack now so that I can be certain they are genuine and I don’t have to make sure there is a J on loose ones.  I agree that the ones that are sold under a different name as suitable for multi brands are generic so are not quite the right size.  If you are lucky enough to be able to buy the genuine prewound bobbins that’s great, I wish I could, and I have never had one break when I have used it again, I always kept them for normal sewing thread, they should be ok as they are just standard Janome bobbins as I understand it.

One lady I met at a workshop, she was using bright coloured bobbins in her 9900, and the tension was awful, not surprising really they were for husqvarna machines, but she thought they looked pretty in the box!  


Patricia Ward
 

Narda,
I use my Janome empty prewound bobbins over and over;  that may have just been one weak bobbin.  
Maybe you could try again and if it happens again then talk to your service tech; I don't know but Jim would if there is such a thing as the bobbin winder making everything to tight.  

But I wanted you to know that I do use my bobbins over with success.

Pat 

On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 8:22 AM Narda Poulin via Groups.Io <nardapoulin=yahoo.ca@groups.io> wrote:
I would think twice about using them twice I did that and after I had filled the bobbin as I was trying to put it in the case the side of the bobbin broke off in my hand so it was useless as well as all the bobbin thread on it....it could have been just a fluke but I only use them once...anyone else have that happen?



Cynthia Dickerson
 

I just purchased 50 bobbins from Sewing Machine Plus for $20.00.  They came in packages of 10 with a
SKU number of 102261103.  This is what Jim Stutman always recommended in the past as the best bobbins to get.  I just checked them and they do not have a "j" on them.


Caroline Wright
 

I buy my prewound bobbins from Amazon and have used them for years on both my Janome 11000 SE and 15000 with no problems.  The only thing I do is to unwind about 10 pulls before inserting the bobbin as sometimes it appears to have a bit too much thread.  Here’s a link - they have both white and black thread.

On Apr 8, 2019, at 8:44 AM, Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...> wrote:

Narda,
I use my Janome empty prewound bobbins over and over;  that may have just been one weak bobbin.  
Maybe you could try again and if it happens again then talk to your service tech; I don't know but Jim would if there is such a thing as the bobbin winder making everything to tight.  

But I wanted you to know that I do use my bobbins over with success.

Pat 

On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 8:22 AM Narda Poulin via Groups.Io <nardapoulin=yahoo.ca@groups.io> wrote:
I would think twice about using them twice I did that and after I had filled the bobbin as I was trying to put it in the case the side of the bobbin broke off in my hand so it was useless as well as all the bobbin thread on it....it could have been just a fluke but I only use them once...anyone else have that happen?






Linda M Robertson <lindamrobertson7@...>
 

I've never had a problem reusing the Janome prewound bobbins.

Linda 


On Apr 8, 2019, at 6:44 AM, Patricia Ward <ward.pm@...> wrote:

Narda,
I use my Janome empty prewound bobbins over and over;  that may have just been one weak bobbin.  
Maybe you could try again and if it happens again then talk to your service tech; I don't know but Jim would if there is such a thing as the bobbin winder making everything to tight.  

But I wanted you to know that I do use my bobbins over with success.

Pat 

On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 8:22 AM Narda Poulin via Groups.Io <nardapoulin=yahoo.ca@groups.io> wrote:
I would think twice about using them twice I did that and after I had filled the bobbin as I was trying to put it in the case the side of the bobbin broke off in my hand so it was useless as well as all the bobbin thread on it....it could have been just a fluke but I only use them once...anyone else have that happen?



Laura Catto (Brayford)
 

I use prewounds in my 12000 and 6500 ALL the time with no tension issues. I was also informed the yellow dot bobbin case is for when you doing embroidery and blue dot is good for free motion quilting and red dot for all the rest. I never use Janome thread. I use aurifil and again with no issues. You can get prewounds from a number of places in North American. The janome prewounds are also available in Canada. I use some called ClearTec...work like a charm

Laura
Edmonton, AB


On Apr 8, 2019, at 6:35 AM, Lyn Quine <lynquine@...> wrote:

I haven’t been able to buy Janome prewounds for a few years.  I was told by Janome UK they are no longer for sale which is a shame because they were brilliant, and I was told to use the normal bobbin case because, the normal one is set to the tension for Janome bobbin thread.  The yellow dot is for non Janome thread.  I used to buy them packaged in the Janome packaging.  If they aren’t in the packaging I would be reluctant to buy them.

As far as the Janome bobbins are concerned, I asked Janome UK if the Janome bobbins have the J on them and was told that only those that are sold loose by a dealer have the J, that is so they can be sure they are selling the correct ones as they aren’t packaged in the normal Janome packaging.  I always buy a pack now so that I can be certain they are genuine and I don’t have to make sure there is a J on loose ones.  I agree that the ones that are sold under a different name as suitable for multi brands are generic so are not quite the right size.  If you are lucky enough to be able to buy the genuine prewound bobbins that’s great, I wish I could, and I have never had one break when I have used it again, I always kept them for normal sewing thread, they should be ok as they are just standard Janome bobbins as I understand it.

One lady I met at a workshop, she was using bright coloured bobbins in her 9900, and the tension was awful, not surprising really they were for husqvarna machines, but she thought they looked pretty in the box!  


Cheryl Paul
 

Hi Elizabeth,

Embroidery Library and Embroidery Designs (2 separate sites) have nice designs at a reasonable price. I’ve also got designs from Sew Swell, Zundt, Sue Box and others that are well digitized and very nice but a bit more money. Just use “Mr. Google”, you’ll get so many sites. It is best to purchase ones that are JEF format, however, many come in all the formats and you just pick out the JEF ones to stitch out. Remember that the stitch limit is 200,000 stitches on the 15000, but most of the designs don’t reach anywhere near that amount, so it shouldn’t be a concern unless the design is bigger than the hoop size for the machine. The 2 things to watch are stitch count, and the size of the design and of course the format as well.

I found it difficult to read your post as you typed it all in upper case letters - that makes it look as if everything you are saying is VERY important - Just an observation. However, we like to hear from everyone no matter how you type. I worked as a typist so I find it easy to do, but not everyone does.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Lyn Quine
 

Would love to buy Janome prewounds, but not available in the UK, to buy from the states would cost in handling charges import and VAT.