2nd Group Lesson Embroidery Module


Sherry Martin
 

I had my 2nd group lesson on only the embroidery module and Horizon Link today. Didn't learn a whole lot that I hadn't figured out from the manual and my experience with the 11000 before this machine.

However, the instructor did tell us one thing I haven't been doing.

When hooping she says you should loosen the hoop put the fabric and stabilizer and top hoop in the hoop and then tighten the hoop just enough so it takes a pretty good tug to separate the 2 parts of the hoop. Then rehoop your fabric and stabilizer just by pushing the 2 parts of the hoop together on a flat surface without tightening the hoop anymore then you did the 1st time. If the items you hoop are normally about the same thickness, then you should be able to leave the hoop at that tightness for the next time. She stated that a lot of people hoop the fabric too tight by pulling at it after it is in the hoop, and that the fabric should be taut in the hoop but not drum tight. By tightening the hoop to the correct tightness before hooping the fabric you achieve the correct tautness of fabric.

She also says she uses 2 layers of stabilizer on almost everything she does using tear-away on things that aren't washed very much like wall hangings, and cut-away on things that are washed a lot like sweatshirts and tshirts and "topping" on the top of things like towels and minky. She makes sure at least 1 layer of stabilizer is bigger than all sides of the hoop, but the 2nd layer she sometimes attaches by using a little temporary spray adhesive.

Jim, do you have an opinion on what she said? Just curious.


Jim_Stutsman <jim@...>
 

We taught that method of hooping for many years, after learning it from Lindee Goodall. It works well, and saves you time when you are doing a lot of the same thing. We don't use 2 layers of stabilizer automatically, just when the situation calls for more. Rather than spraying adhesive, we usually "float" the stabilizer, meaning we just slide it under the hoop. The stitches will then hold it in place.

--- In janome12000@yahoogroups.com, "Sherry Martin" <shejmartin@...> wrote:

I had my 2nd group lesson on only the embroidery module and Horizon Link today. Didn't learn a whole lot that I hadn't figured out from the manual and my experience with the 11000 before this machine.

However, the instructor did tell us one thing I haven't been doing.

When hooping she says you should loosen the hoop put the fabric and stabilizer and top hoop in the hoop and then tighten the hoop just enough so it takes a pretty good tug to separate the 2 parts of the hoop. Then rehoop your fabric and stabilizer just by pushing the 2 parts of the hoop together on a flat surface without tightening the hoop anymore then you did the 1st time. If the items you hoop are normally about the same thickness, then you should be able to leave the hoop at that tightness for the next time. She stated that a lot of people hoop the fabric too tight by pulling at it after it is in the hoop, and that the fabric should be taut in the hoop but not drum tight. By tightening the hoop to the correct tightness before hooping the fabric you achieve the correct tautness of fabric.

She also says she uses 2 layers of stabilizer on almost everything she does using tear-away on things that aren't washed very much like wall hangings, and cut-away on things that are washed a lot like sweatshirts and tshirts and "topping" on the top of things like towels and minky. She makes sure at least 1 layer of stabilizer is bigger than all sides of the hoop, but the 2nd layer she sometimes attaches by using a little temporary spray adhesive.

Jim, do you have an opinion on what she said? Just curious.