It’s does this, try the alternate method of threading, thread it from the left handside of the lever, after the tension discs thread goes down round the bend up and under the lever, and thread from le

At first look I think it’s a satin stitch foot. Then I googled Janome K foot and it came up as that, satin stitch. It’s used for both satin and many decorative stitches.

Janome MBX V5 and V5.5 ( not sure about earlier versions) do save to JEF+ and jpx. They save to jpx when transferring to usb by default when 15000 is selected, and I think the 12000, again I'm not cer

You don’t need big USBs a 2 or 4GB is more than ample, or even better if you have a smaller one lurking at the back of the drawer, (I’ve got one that’s 250MB) they work just as well. You can get lots

My New Years resolution, it’s to make sure I sew as often as I can. To make lots of lovely and useful things, both sewn and embroidered. It’s gonna be a tough one to keep but I will try.

It should run on Mac but you’ll still need windows, you’ll need minimum 8GB of memory 16GB recommended. It should recognise your designs and any you’ve digitised as a .EMB. Check on the Wilcom website

I don’t know if it would work with the 11000, but I would suggest if you’re going to mess with the tension on a bobbin case you buy another so that you have the correct tension in one and Mark accordi

A Janome dealer may even have some spare feet around from scrap machines.

You should contact a Janome dealer, the feet for the 6600P slide onto to the attachment on the back of the machine, it’s a very good walking foot.in the UK we have a j-shop on the Janome website where

I would tighten the top tension, the bobbin thread a higher tension than than the top thread and is pulling it down, tighten the top tension a bit and it will equal it out.

My daughter had V5 on a MacBook Pro with parallels it was so slow, it could take over an hour to get v5 open. It was slowed down so much by parallels and windows so you need lots more memory. And she

I have had this happen on my 12000 and 15000, it’s going over the seams, it’s a long foot, and tips up, the front gets to the seam and it goes up, but nothing to bring it down until the back clears th

I considered buying a Mac but I would have had to put parallels and windows on it, but I bought a 27” Acer and added lots of memory so that I could run my a Janome software, and it’s so much better an

I’ve not used Embrilliance, but I had MBX V4 which I upgraded to V5 and then V5.5, it’s not just running the program on the Mac that causes the screen to shift and lose sight of the design and the gri

It could be the orientation of the design, it might need turning. Did you unzip the file? If you didn’t it will still show on the USB but the machine can’t read it. Have a look at it in software, Hori

Viola, Yes I’ve spoken to Peter in the past, and we’ve exchanged emails. Very helpful, and so are the rest of the team. I had a problem with the foot pedal on my 15000 and it was all sorted, new foot

I upgraded from v4 Jr to V4 to V5 and V5.5. Personally I find V5 and 5.5 far easier to use than v4 or V4. Makes so much more sense to me. There are lots of free YouTube videos for Hatch and Hatch 2 wh

It could be the sensor, there’s one near the tension discs, but if the top thread is loose perhaps there’s fluff in the tension discs, give it a brush through or run a bit of lint free cloth throu the

It could be your thread is getting caught up around the spindle, if you are using small cones on the horizontal spindle they can get caught behind the cop (small cone) and once caught it will get tigh

Unfortunately our machines are computerised but don’t have the computing power of our MACs and PCs. Sometimes it’s the way the designers have formatted the file. I always take a new design into softwa