Date   
Re: Another question

Kathy Strabel
 

Pixey---Depending on the size of spool you use, the horizontal spool pin can work well if you use the very small spool pin "disk". It does not look like the other, flat spool pin disks. It is about 1/2" or less in length, tubular with a flange on one end, and it fits down inside the spool's hole and holds the spool still while sewing. In my experience, the thread then unreels smoothly from the horizontal spool.  Tip---if you ever forget your special spool holder that you had to buy extra, just set a small juice glass to the back and right of the machine, and clip a small bulldog-type clip onto the machine's swing-up cover. Use the type of clip with the folding "handles", and thread your thread through one or both of those handles. Place your thread spool upright in he juice glass. Works every time.  I thread my 500e exactly the same way you describe.   Happy Stitching!    Kathy S.

--
Have a good one!
Kathy Strabel




Re: Another question

bhoryn
 

Thanks for that suggestion.   I do have a thread holder although not as France as the Superior brand one.   Will try that today.


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On Saturday, December 7, 2019, 8:52 PM, Pixey via Groups.Io <pixeyam@...> wrote:

Another suggestion...I do not like the horizontal spool holder on the 500e.  It repeatedly causes me tension problems with the thread either pooling or binding up.  I use a vertical Superior spool holder to the back and right of the machine and use it to bring the thread to the top of the machine.  Then I do a single wrap around the guide, not using the separate hole to wrap it a second loop.  

This is one of the few things I am less fond of about the 500e.  I was reminded of it recently when I took my 500e to an embroidery workshop because they were using a larger hoop.  Had to buy another thread holder at the store when I forgot to take mine.

Hope this make sense.

Re: Janome 15000 foot pedal

Lyn Quine
 

Thanks Jim, he’s taken it apart and cleaned it out, he said it wasn’t bad inside, just a few bits of thread.  Given the state of the carpet in there I’m surprised.      😂.  He’s put a meter on it and it seems to be ok, we’re now thinking it may be the socket on the 15000, although it hasn’t been disconnected very often, the foot pedal has been kept in place the majority of the time.  But I’ll try the 12000 pedal on the 15, if its the same fault it may prove the socket is the problem.  I think the machine could do with a service as well so it might be a reluctant trip to the dealer, but I’ll speak to her nicely and tell her she’s going for a spa break!  😂 
 

Acuedit not getting new designs :(

Nyssa Lanzafame
 

So I thought I had seen some people saying they were able to use acuedit...but I cannot. When I go to a site and download a design, it then says open in... and I can choose acuedit...acuedit opens but the design never shows up.... is there something different I can do?


[Editor note: Attachment video removed to avoid imapact on our limited file storage space. It also is not playable on a tablet or phone.]

Re: need help with embroidering a lt wt logo on a shiny knit shirt

Pixey
 

Hi Joyce,
I have done a fair bit of embroidering on knit t-shirts and sweatshirts.  If the shirts have any cotton in them and they are going to be laundered after being embroidered, then they really need to be washed and dried beforehand for that initial shrinkage.  If they are 100% polyester, that is not an issue.  Also, you mention that it is a light weight knit.  In this case you generally want the embroidery design density not to overwhelm the knit as than can lead to distortion of the knit, no matter how well you stabilize it.  Since you mention this logo being a single color, that will probably help.

The key is to stabilize the knit without stretching it out of shape.  So I never hoop the knit.   I usually hoop 2 layers of a lightweight, non-woven cutaway (like Sulky Soft and Sheer or Embellish Soft Cutaway)...either fusible or with a light adhesive spray (shielding my hoops in the process).

If you embroidering in white on a dark color, you might want to use an opaque tear away topper to minimize the background bleed through...unless the design does not lend itself to this.  I sometimes use a very tearaway (depending on the actual design) or a water soluble film to keep a fine design from sinking down into the knits.

Finally, you want to use a needle with a ball point instead of a sharp.  I tend to use Janome/Organ blue tips, which have a slight ball point.  But if you use other brands, then make sure it is a ball point and not a sharp.

Pixey


On Dec 7, 2019, at 6:09 PM, Joyce Daniel <mdaniel@...> wrote:

I embroider a lot but not on knits. A friend/business owner asked me to embroider her white thread logo on 12 black,semi shiny, med wt, knit zip jackets. I do not have one to practice on nor a similar fabric, so I REALLY need your input on how to do these and what stabilizer and needle to use....please.
Thanks!!! Joyce in GA....loving this blessed time of year.

Re: Another question

Pixey
 

Another suggestion...I do not like the horizontal spool holder on the 500e.  It repeatedly causes me tension problems with the thread either pooling or binding up.  I use a vertical Superior spool holder to the back and right of the machine and use it to bring the thread to the top of the machine.  Then I do a single wrap around the guide, not using the separate hole to wrap it a second loop.  

This is one of the few things I am less fond of about the 500e.  I was reminded of it recently when I took my 500e to an embroidery workshop because they were using a larger hoop.  Had to buy another thread holder at the store when I forgot to take mine.

Hope this make sense.

Pixey



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need help with embroidering a lt wt logo on a shiny knit shirt

Joyce Daniel
 

I embroider a lot but not on knits. A friend/business owner asked me to embroider her white thread logo on 12 black,semi shiny, med wt, knit zip jackets. I do not have one to practice on nor a similar fabric, so I REALLY need your input on how to do these and what stabilizer and needle to use....please.
Thanks!!! Joyce in GA....loving this blessed time of year.

Re: Janome 15000 foot pedal

Jim Stutsman
 

Yes the 12000 foot control will work just as well on the 15000. I don't know whether you can buy the 15000 control separate from the full dual-controller base, but a dealer should be able to tell you. You may also be able to clean the 15000 control to stop the errors. It's a bit annoying to disassemble, as some of the screws are under the rubber non-skid stip. There are also springs inside, so it's a good idea to open slowly so you can see where they are. Once open you can remove lint (in a sewing room???), dust, animal hair, hobbits, and what-have-you. This will sometimes restore it to proper operation.

Janome 15000 foot pedal

Lyn Quine
 

Hi Jim, my foot pedal on my 15000 is throwing up an error message every few minutes, will the foot pedal from my 12000 work on the 15000?  If I have to buy a new pedal, can I just buy the large pedal, the cutter pedal and base don’t need replacing. 

Re: Another question

bhoryn
 

Thanks Jim.    I was shown by dealer to hold the bobbin with the thread dangling so it forms  the letter”P”.  That way it always goes in to pull off counter clockwise.   Thanks again for your suggestions and hints.   Every day I get a little better but yesterday was very frustrating.   🤨


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On Saturday, December 7, 2019, 10:06 AM, Jim Stutsman via Groups.Io <onlinesewing@...> wrote:

One  thing I failed to mention that often trips up people new to Janome top-loaders: it's very easy to put the bobbin in backward. If you do this it will sew correctly for a short time until the thread pulls out of the bobbin tension. Then you get bobbin showing on top. The cover over the bobbin area shows the correct threading, but you can easily verify by pulling on the bobbin thread. If the bobbin turns clockwise, it's wrong. Flip and re-thread. Counter-clockwise means it's all good. Machines that have a vertical bobbin system like your Pfaff are less likely to have problems with this, and may even thread in the opposite direction. I haven't laid eyes on a Pfaff for at least a dozen years, so I can't really remember.

Re: Another question

Jim Stutsman
 

One  thing I failed to mention that often trips up people new to Janome top-loaders: it's very easy to put the bobbin in backward. If you do this it will sew correctly for a short time until the thread pulls out of the bobbin tension. Then you get bobbin showing on top. The cover over the bobbin area shows the correct threading, but you can easily verify by pulling on the bobbin thread. If the bobbin turns clockwise, it's wrong. Flip and re-thread. Counter-clockwise means it's all good. Machines that have a vertical bobbin system like your Pfaff are less likely to have problems with this, and may even thread in the opposite direction. I haven't laid eyes on a Pfaff for at least a dozen years, so I can't really remember.

Re: Another question

bhoryn
 

Cheryl.  Thanks for your reply.    There are two bobbin cases with my machine apparently one for use with a Janome bobbin thread and the second for use with different bobbin threads.    When I switched to the second yesterday it took me most of the day to get it working correctly.  I finally switched back to original bobbin and as instructed in a different thread here ran a piece of fabric through the two tension slots on the machine.   After that I was able to sew out a complete design without getting the message on screen that thread was broken.......which it was not.  My dealer is over an hour away so this group is so valuable to me as a newbie with Janome.    I have embroidered for years with two Pfaff machines (am I allowed to post that name here, LOL). Learned to split the larger designs into two or three sections to sew them out but as designs are getting bigger and bigger I decided to go with a machine with larger hoops.    I appreciate all your help and suggestions.     

On Saturday, December 7, 2019, 1:42 AM, Cheryl Paul <capaul@...> wrote:

I think that the 500E and 550E only come with one bobbin case as they are an embroidery only machine.

If you haven’t taken your thread out and re-threade the machine try that, do the bobbin too.  If this machine is new, you should really talk to your dealer.  Hopefully they aren’t to far away if you need to take it in.  You shouldn’t have problems like that with a brand new machine.

Cheryl - Saskatoon

Re: Another question

Cheryl Paul
 

I think that the 500E and 550E only come with one bobbin case as they are an embroidery only machine.

If you haven’t taken your thread out and re-threade the machine try that, do the bobbin too. If this machine is new, you should really talk to your dealer. Hopefully they aren’t to far away if you need to take it in. You shouldn’t have problems like that with a brand new machine.

Cheryl - Saskatoon

Re: Dual feed ED foot keeps disengaging

Chris House
 

🙃💕👏😬


On Fri, Dec 6, 2019 at 4:26 PM Kathy Strabel <ksbappa@...> wrote:
Chris House---I have the same problem with the ED foot constantly disengaging, usually when there is a thicker ridge of fabric like a crossing seam. Personally, I think this is, ridiculous for a machine in the price range that the S7 is in.   The marketing materials say how versatile and efficient the machine is, but this problem with the walking foot always disengaging is a giant disappointment. I am not talking about crossing over multiple layers of denim or heavy wool. This happens even with quilting cottons. Thus, I would never ask my S7 to do anything like a tote bag, or home dec projects. Fortunately, I still have my very trusty, but not very glamorous, machine of another brand from the 80s to handle anything more sturdy than dress weight fabrics.  By the way, the thing disengages also just when I sew at a fast pace, with no changes in thickness from crossing seams, etc.    I think Janome ought to come up with some sort of metal clip to place over the slot where the hook goes in, so the hook won't jump out of place. I did find a stop-gap fix of sorts. I used a narrow strip of Gorilla Tape across the slot, and that works for a while.   Not an ideal fix, but, since I already own this machine.......     I hope you find a better solutiion; I will be checking the Group for further info on this subject.
Kathy Strabel   Canas WA

Re: Dual feed ED foot keeps disengaging

Chris House
 

Thank you very much. Will try your idea!  Chris

On Fri, Dec 6, 2019 at 12:51 PM Jim Stutsman via Groups.Io <onlinesewing=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
Try reducing the foot pressure with the knob at the top of the machine. On really thick fabrics if there is too much pressure it will make the foot disengage.

Re: Another question

bhoryn
 

Will try your suggestion.    Love the idea of using a red pen to cover the white. 😁

Re: Another question

bhoryn
 

thank you Jim.   Will give that a try.    

Re: Dual feed ED foot keeps disengaging

Kathy Strabel
 

Chris House---I have the same problem with the ED foot constantly disengaging, usually when there is a thicker ridge of fabric like a crossing seam. Personally, I think this is, ridiculous for a machine in the price range that the S7 is in.   The marketing materials say how versatile and efficient the machine is, but this problem with the walking foot always disengaging is a giant disappointment. I am not talking about crossing over multiple layers of denim or heavy wool. This happens even with quilting cottons. Thus, I would never ask my S7 to do anything like a tote bag, or home dec projects. Fortunately, I still have my very trusty, but not very glamorous, machine of another brand from the 80s to handle anything more sturdy than dress weight fabrics.  By the way, the thing disengages also just when I sew at a fast pace, with no changes in thickness from crossing seams, etc.    I think Janome ought to come up with some sort of metal clip to place over the slot where the hook goes in, so the hook won't jump out of place. I did find a stop-gap fix of sorts. I used a narrow strip of Gorilla Tape across the slot, and that works for a while.   Not an ideal fix, but, since I already own this machine.......     I hope you find a better solutiion; I will be checking the Group for further info on this subject.
Kathy Strabel   Canas WA

Re: Embroidery bobbin not sewing

Nyssa Lanzafame
 

You are using the yellow bobbin case?  

Re: Dual feed ED foot keeps disengaging

Jim Stutsman
 

Try reducing the foot pressure with the knob at the top of the machine. On really thick fabrics if there is too much pressure it will make the foot disengage.