Date   
Re: Posted Photos - Acufil Quilting Project

juliadlf.ny@...
 

Gail: Yes, I was able to line up okay. It was slow going in the beginning because of my inexperience working with the 12000 and then  figuring out I needed to cut the printed template close to the design so I could see through the hoop plastic template to lineup  the beginning line with the ending line of the previous section.I taped the printed design to the underside of the hoop template and it works good.

 I did not include the quilt borders in the quilting and just focused on the larger section as I have another design I want to use for the borders. I am working from left to right and when I finished the first row, I started again from the left so my second row will be just below the first row. If you saw the layout of the Sea Swirl you will know what I mean. My quilt is quite large so I have to reroll it back under the harp space as I start each new row.

BTW, the digitizer just sent me an email with revised design to see if the stitches are longer. Gotta go and test.

Julia
NY-MC12000

Re: No DVD player in new laptop

gbo4
 

Well, thanks for the rapid 'downer' answer. 

Appreciate all you do.

No DVD player in new laptop

gbo4
 

Hi Jim,

Just wondering if there is a way to download Horizon Suite / Link for 12, 000 and 15,000, or do I have to purchase a separate DVD drive?

I've only found updates to the machines and software on the Janome site.

Thanks



Jim provides this newly downloaded answer:

Janome does not make their software available for download, only updates. They apparently missed the memo that explains how physical media is going away.


Re: Posted Photos - Acufil Quilting Project

Gail
 

Julia,

I just looked at the Sea Swirl design on the website.  We're you able to adequately line up the design so it met the next motif using just the template?  If so, was it difficult?  Guess it's something I need to try but wondered if there are any hints you could give.

 

Gail in FL 

Re: Precise positioning

Jeana David
 

Many thanks to all who replied. Very helpful! Jeana

Re: Posted Photos - Acufil Quilting Project

Nicole Schmidt-Nutt
 

Julia,
 
Sometimes that happens.  If you make sure you have enough tailing you shouldn't have any more issues.
 
Nicole
MI


On Thursday, June 5, 2014 8:14 PM, "juliadlf.ny@... [janome12000]" wrote:


 
Nicole: Thanks. I got it set in the "ON" position and it works great. BUT, sometimes it doesn't pull up the bobbin thread so I have to use the up/down needle button to do another stitch to pull it up.

Julia
NY-MC12000


Metalic thread spindle

threads98
 

While looking through the photo file there was a wooden spindle for metalic threads. Where can I find more information on the wooden spindle?

Thanks

Threads98

Filling the Bobbin - Typical stop point?

JoAnn Novak
 

  What Sidewinder do you use??  I was thinking of buying one.   JoAnn
 
A wise man's heart inclines him to the right but a fool's heart to the left. Ecc. 10:2

 

Thank you Jim. I'll leave it as it is as it is not a big issue but wondered if this was something the machine typically does and it appears it isn't.  I have a Sidewinder I can use to get fuller bobbins.

Julia
NY-MC12000


Re: Filling the Bobbin - Typical stop point?

Cathy DeWolf
 

If I may add my two cents:  I found that the easiest way to set the bobbin winder is to first put in a full bobbin and then use that as a guide. 

Cathy

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 5, 2014, at 7:07 PM, "juliadlf.ny@... [janome12000]" <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

When I wind my bobbins I find that the winder seemingly stops about approximately a bit less than 1/8" before the edge of the bobbin. Is this the correct setting? Also when it winds the bobbins and it gets to the point of stopping, it really doesn't fully stop but appears to be trying to continue and I have to hit the Stop /Start button. Closest way for me to describe what it does is like a car peeling out and the wheels spin but the car isn't moving. I had a MC7700 which did fill the bobbin fully so I'm wondering if the MC12000 is not set properly for bobbin winding.

Thanks for helping me through my learning curve.


Julia

NY-MC12000



Trying unsuccessfully to peel out in his Prius, Jim says:

Your car analogy is pretty apt. The bobbin winder is actually driven by a rubber "tire" that is driven by the hand wheel. The rubber tire that drives the winder may not be absolutely perfectly round, and the hand wheel that spins it may also not be absolutely perfectly true. This can result in a bit of stuttering when the stop point is reached and the machine is programmed to run for some time beyond this point until it stops. You are right to stop it, as prolonged operation in a non-winding or partially-winding state can eventually wear flat spots in the tire.


The stopping point of the winder is set by the silver metal piece immediately to the right of the winder. You can adjust this by loosening *SLIGHTLY* the silver screw to the right of the stopper. DO NOT loosen it a lot, or you will hear a soft click as the nut backing the screw falls down into the machine. You will then have to take the machine to your dealer and make up a convincing story about how that nut fell off without any action on your part. (Hint - he won't believe that your cat did it. A story about an inquisitive grandson *might* fly, but the best excuse would be to blame it on your husband, especially if said husband is a mechanic or engineer.) What you want to do is loosen that screw only to the point that the stopper can be moved. Move it only a small amount at a time and hold it when you tighten the screw or it will move, usually in the wrong direction. Don't try to get it to fill within one thread width of absolutely full, as you may use a heavier thread that will cause it to overfill. When overly full the thread will fall down below the bobbin and quickly wrap around the bobbin winder spindle, creating a nasty mess. There is no story that your dealer will believe if that happens, and you'll need to bring a batch of chocolate chip cookies or brownies just to keep him or her from taking you off the store's Christmas card list. You've already got the biggest bobbin in the industry. Accept the fact that you're going to have to fill one from time to time and it will always happen at a time that is not convenient.

Re: Filling the Bobbin - Typical stop point?

juliadlf.ny@...
 

Thank you Jim. I'll leave it as it is as it is not a big issue but wondered if this was something the machine typically does and it appears it isn't.  I have a Sidewinder I can use to get fuller bobbins.

Julia
NY-MC12000

Re: Precise positioning

Jeana David
 

Many thanks to those that rplied- very helpful!

Next question, if I want to use repeating designs other than those in the machine, how do I add the line up marks? In MBX?

Thanks again Jeana



Lining up with an answer, Jim says:

If you use the Clothsetter you can forego alignment marks. Make templates with HorizonLink and you're good to go. If you must use alignment marks there is a + in the Monogram section of HorizonLink that could prove useful.

Re: Stitch plate

laucke2011@...
 

thank you for the part no Rachael I will take that with me next time I go to Janome shop as they didn't know what I was talking about Naomi

Re: Stitch plate

rachael clarkson <seafly.brisbane@...>
 

Hi 

The ultra glide foot & needle plate is available in Australia now

Part # 202 201 005 your dealer should be able to order in for you.


On Friday, 6 June 2014, laucke2011@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

If there is anyone who knows where to buy the Ultra glide foot and plate in Australia could they please let me know because the Janome agents here don't know what I am talking about Thank Naomi



---In janome12000@..., wrote :

"In an act of contrition Jim admits it was a bad idea to answer email before coffee. In fact the "EasySet" bobbin system is based on the needle plate and the Ultra Glide plate fits both 12000 and 15000. So the answer to your question is YES. Sorry for the confusion. Perhaps it’s time for me to be tested for senility!

Does this mean that if I get a 12K stitch plate and use it on my 15K that I can use the “big quilt binder set”?
Andrea

Putting down a stack of needle plates, Jim says:
Yes, the 12000 needle plate will work on the 15000 for attachment of the Quilt Binder part #202101004. The main problem with this attachment is that it has a metal piece that fits into the hole occupied by the plastic bobbin cover. Eventually Janome will come out with a binder for the 15000 that has this piece, but they will likely only sell the complete binder set, not just the plate. The 15000 needle plate has the correct threaded hole, so it's just a matter of time before they release the binder set. Maybe it will arrive about the same time as the long-promised-yet-never-seen 5 x 7 hoop. In any case, if you buy a 12000 needle plate you will be able to use it on the 15000 with the quilt binder.

Re: Variable zigzag--question from a newbie

ceilsews <no_reply@...>
 

Just wanted to add my 2 cents.  I haven't been able to adjust the knee control on my 15000 so that I can use it when sewing.  I remember reading somewhere that someone put one of those "pool noodles" (cut down of course) around the control so it was closer to her knee. 
On my Juki it is less than 7 inches from center needle to the knee control, on the 15000 it is about 10 inches with the lever adjusted.  Sitting center needle that's enough of a stretch to make using it difficult, at least for me.

Re: Stitch plate

laucke2011@...
 

If there is anyone who knows where to buy the Ultra glide foot and plate in Australia could they please let me know because the Janome agents here don't know what I am talking about Thank Naomi


---In janome12000@..., <lscsew@...> wrote :

"In an act of contrition Jim admits it was a bad idea to answer email before coffee. In fact the "EasySet" bobbin system is based on the needle plate and the Ultra Glide plate fits both 12000 and 15000. So the answer to your question is YES. Sorry for the confusion. Perhaps it’s time for me to be tested for senility!

Does this mean that if I get a 12K stitch plate and use it on my 15K that I can use the “big quilt binder set”?
Andrea

Putting down a stack of needle plates, Jim says:
Yes, the 12000 needle plate will work on the 15000 for attachment of the Quilt Binder part #202101004. The main problem with this attachment is that it has a metal piece that fits into the hole occupied by the plastic bobbin cover. Eventually Janome will come out with a binder for the 15000 that has this piece, but they will likely only sell the complete binder set, not just the plate. The 15000 needle plate has the correct threaded hole, so it's just a matter of time before they release the binder set. Maybe it will arrive about the same time as the long-promised-yet-never-seen 5 x 7 hoop. In any case, if you buy a 12000 needle plate you will be able to use it on the 15000 with the quilt binder.

Filling the Bobbin - Typical stop point?

juliadlf.ny@...
 

When I wind my bobbins I find that the winder seemingly stops about approximately a bit less than 1/8" before the edge of the bobbin. Is this the correct setting? Also when it winds the bobbins and it gets to the point of stopping, it really doesn't fully stop but appears to be trying to continue and I have to hit the Stop /Start button. Closest way for me to describe what it does is like a car peeling out and the wheels spin but the car isn't moving. I had a MC7700 which did fill the bobbin fully so I'm wondering if the MC12000 is not set properly for bobbin winding.

Thanks for helping me through my learning curve.


Julia

NY-MC12000



Trying unsuccessfully to peel out in his Prius, Jim says:

Your car analogy is pretty apt. The bobbin winder is actually driven by a rubber "tire" that is driven by the hand wheel. The rubber tire that drives the winder may not be absolutely perfectly round, and the hand wheel that spins it may also not be absolutely perfectly true. This can result in a bit of stuttering when the stop point is reached and the machine is programmed to run for some time beyond this point until it stops. You are right to stop it, as prolonged operation in a non-winding or partially-winding state can eventually wear flat spots in the tire.


The stopping point of the winder is set by the silver metal piece immediately to the right of the winder. You can adjust this by loosening *SLIGHTLY* the silver screw to the right of the stopper. DO NOT loosen it a lot, or you will hear a soft click as the nut backing the screw falls down into the machine. You will then have to take the machine to your dealer and make up a convincing story about how that nut fell off without any action on your part. (Hint - he won't believe that your cat did it. A story about an inquisitive grandson *might* fly, but the best excuse would be to blame it on your husband, especially if said husband is a mechanic or engineer.) What you want to do is loosen that screw only to the point that the stopper can be moved. Move it only a small amount at a time and hold it when you tighten the screw or it will move, usually in the wrong direction. Don't try to get it to fill within one thread width of absolutely full, as you may use a heavier thread that will cause it to overfill. When overly full the thread will fall down below the bobbin and quickly wrap around the bobbin winder spindle, creating a nasty mess. There is no story that your dealer will believe if that happens, and you'll need to bring a batch of chocolate chip cookies or brownies just to keep him or her from taking you off the store's Christmas card list. You've already got the biggest bobbin in the industry. Accept the fact that you're going to have to fill one from time to time and it will always happen at a time that is not convenient.

Re: Posted Photos - Acufil Quilting Project

juliadlf.ny@...
 

Nicole: Thanks. I got it set in the "ON" position and it works great. BUT, sometimes it doesn't pull up the bobbin thread so I have to use the up/down needle button to do another stitch to pull it up.

Julia
NY-MC12000

Re: Precise positioning

Vickie <okbee@...>
 

Hi everyone
I just purchased the 15000 traded in my 11000 so I don’t know to much about the 12000. The videos that I read about are those just for the 12000 or can I use them for the 15000. The next ? where do I find these videos, just read something about Diane has videos assuming this is Jim’s wife.  Hope this is clear.
thanks Vickie in OHIO


Speaking clearly, Jim says:
In spite of 45 years with me, yes, Diane continues to be my wife and the mother of our 3 sons. The 12000 videos might be somewhat helpful with the 15000, but the potential for confusion is high. She is working furiously on a very comprehensive set of videos for the 15000, and I am editing them just as furiously. Our goal is to have them available sometime this summer, hopefully within 60 days. We fully understand how much they are wanted by 15000 owners, but we are balancing that with making them as detailed and understandable as possible. This will be our most ambitious project ever and we want to deliver the best product we can.

Variable zigzag--question from a newbie

Smith Sarah Ann <sarahannsmith@...>
 

Hi all! I knew I’d have questions as soon as I began, and I do. I was able to do some variable zigzag when practicing on a quilt sandwich using the F2 foot (I am working on an applique, not free motion for this project), but when I tried it on an applique that is cloth plus stabilizer, I had “issues.” Basically, at first it won’t do anything but stitch straight no matter how far I press the knee lift, then after sewing sometimes as much as an inch it jumps to 9 mm wide. What I want is a smooth increase from about 2.0 width up to say 4.4 and then back and forth within that range. I know it will take practice getting used to using the lever, figuring out just how far to push etc. But:

is there a trick to getting the variable width to actually start (and not straight stitch—a lock stitch is built in and it never seems to go beyond that) with the zigzagging?

can you set a minimum or maximum stitch width? For example, can I set the stitch width to 2.0, then increase from there? Or does it always start out at 0.0?

does it always jump up to WIDE?

I finally gave up and went back to tapping the stitch width on the regular zigzag on the fly as I stitched, and it worked quite well. I don’t know how much operator error there is in the variable zigzag efforts, and how much of it is that I want more control than the knee-lever method is going to offer.

Thanks for any info!

And Jim: looked closely at your discs for the 12000 again today—great stuff! I’m taking things one step at a time.

Cheers, Sarah

Check out my DVD: Art Quilt Design: From Photo to Threadwork
Author of bestseller ThreadWork Unraveled
website and blog: http://www.sarahannsmith.com/weblog
e-mail: sarah@...



Diane's advice, per Jim:
The variable zigzag takes a LOT of practice. Diane is still not thrilled with it. She recommends adjusting the sensitivity of the control (Page 97 in the manual, item 7) and also adjusting the knee lever itself to make it closer or farther away from your knee. Her best results were obtained by unplugging the foot control, setting the speed to medium and using the START/STOP button while moving the knee lever with her hand. The 12000 videos will not be very useful on the 15000 due to the many changes that Janome made between those 2 models.

Horizon Link

karenkaping@...
 

I have the 15000 and have never used the horizon link.  What does it do and how do you use it?
Karen



Seemingly at a loss for words, Jim stutters out:

HorizonLink Suite for the 15000 is software that allows your computer to communicate directly to your machine to send designs, stitch compositions and stitch combinations. How to use it is well beyond the limits of this mailing list. See this page for an overview of what it can do.