Date   

Design Question

Sara Jane
 


Why is it that every time I save my design from .EMB to ,JEF  (in MBX 5) It turns upside down?  thank you, Sara


Re: Puckers in embroidery

Kay Davis
 

Thanks for the info. Good idea. 

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 9:17 AM favymtz <favymtz@...> wrote:
Re Stiffen the fabric:
I Always Use a fabric stiffener to prepare the fabric before embroidery or decorative stitching. (Unless it’s not a washable!)
 I consider this a temporary, but necessary stabilizer!

Heavy Spray Starch
Terial Magic
Odif (a new to me spray-on stiffener)
Gloop=Dissolve scraps of water soluble stabilizer in water

Also, “Best Press” is not adequate for this purpose

Favymtz 

--
Favymtz 


Re: How Would You Do This?

Kathy Strabel
 

Thank you to all that took the time to reply to my request for suggestions on how to layer and quilt a potholder. I have not been able to complete the project because I have found that the lettering in the design I want to use is not stitching out very well. I contacted the company where I bought the design, and they said they could see where the lettering could use some improvements and that they would contact the digitizer to see if the design could be altered or improved, and if that was not possible, I could get a refund for that design. I think that is a good policy because most places that supply any kind of digital product say that they do not do refunds, exchanges --and some don't even accept any change orders or cancellations. I am awaiting a follow-up to see if the design I chose can actually be made to look its best. 

 In the past, I had a similar problem with a vintage-type of floral design. The very tiny centers of some of the flowers pulled out immediately. I saw them stitch into the fabric, but they un-ravelled when I took the project out of the hoop. The company actually re-worked the design for me in a new file. They said that sometimes very small items like dots or flower centers with very few stitches don't seem to "obey" the tie-off at the end of that particular small element of a design.    I know that some stitching errors are "Operator Error", but in these two cases, that was not the case. Before you complain to a design seller, be sure that you are using the best combination of hoop, fabric, stabilizer, needle,  thread type and size, tension, bobbin thread, etc. And do several different  test stitch-outs to eliminate the possibility of said "Operator Error".   Happy stitching to all and stay cool, safe and healthy!!!
Kathy Strabel   Camas WA


Re: USB A 3.0 extender doesn’t work

Lyn Quine
 

I bought a 3.0 and it’s working just fine.  Mine is a 15000 V2 which has been upgraded to a V3 not sure if that makes a difference.  I tried to get a 2.0 extender but couldn’t find one, so got a 3 because it would work with my PC anyway, but it works ok on my machine


Re: USB A 3.0 extender doesn’t work

Diane
 

Only a 2.0 extender works with the 15000.

Diane B

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020, 1:55 PM 41ford Astleford <41fordsuperdeluxe@...> wrote:
Finally got the nerve to try the USB 3.0 extender and it works fine on my 400E that I bought last year.  I am also using a 16 GB flash drive with no problems.  I made subfiles under the EMF file for each group of embroidery designs ie: flowers, animals, etc. Most of my embroidery files are on this flash drive and I have had no problem.  Love my Janome!


Re: Puckers in embroidery

favymtz
 

Re Stiffen the fabric:
I Always Use a fabric stiffener to prepare the fabric before embroidery or decorative stitching. (Unless it’s not a washable!)
 I consider this a temporary, but necessary stabilizer!

Heavy Spray Starch
Terial Magic
Odif (a new to me spray-on stiffener)
Gloop=Dissolve scraps of water soluble stabilizer in water

Also, “Best Press” is not adequate for this purpose

Favymtz 

--
Favymtz 


Re: How Would You Do This?

vicki J. Wardwell <vjw_65@...>
 

Cut all 3 front batting back same exact size Place a center dot at beginning of Word when all re-hooped be sure the needle goes to center dot first.
When you design the quilting it must go to center dot first then proceed to quilt the area around the word.
I would carefully center  hoop top fabric then embroider the word then i would re-hoop place batting for heat under top and under it the backing fabric of the potholder match up the edges [ the embroidered one will of course shrink a bit re-hoop all 3.
Good luck.
Insul brite is the batting;
--
Vicki Jane Hull- Wardwell


Re: patch sandwich?

vicki J. Wardwell <vjw_65@...>
 

Have you ever used Ailennns fabric to fabric glue? you can read details here;
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aleene-s-Permanent-Fabric-Fusion-Adhesive-4-Fl-Oz/17299874
I use it where i cant get into sew an area, like my travel pillow.
--
Vicki Jane Hull- Wardwell


hemming 2 nightgowns

vicki J. Wardwell <vjw_65@...>
 

my plan was to cut out 13 inches of length then cut the hem off the bottom so they look pretty much like the others.
Except the hem does not want to lay flat any suggestions?
Thank you in advance.
--
Vicki Jane Hull- Wardwell


Re: Puckers in embroidery

Pixey
 

Thanks for this information Favy.  I am definitely looking forward to doing more experimenting with different stabilizers and fabrics.  I too had a problematic starting out effort, in my case it was a purchased bulletproof design on a lightweight fabric.  Oops!

I know so much more now than I did then thanks to others sharing their knowledge.

Pixey


On Jul 23, 2020, at 9:06 AM, favymtz <favymtz@...> wrote:


Pixey, yes it does stay stable after pre shrinking it. However, I find that it's still rather sensitive to heat, so be careful what it's used on. 
Over the years I discovered that I don't like it much except for on items that won't see an iron! It's often recommended for t-shirts and other clothing, but I was never really thrilled with the results.
My experience is that I do this with clothing: I stiffen up the fabric real good and use either a Tear Away or a Wash Away. And because I digitize I often-times will either create my own designs or alter a purchased design to assure that it isn't too stitch dense for the fabric/clothing. I like my embroidered clothing to maintain a nice drape and not be stiff behind the embroidery.
For items that don't need to be drapey, I will fuse on a lightweight interfacing product as has been mentioned by Jane and Patricia in this conversation. (Shape Flex, Knit Fuse, etc.)
One other thing that I try to remember is what our old friend and master digitizer Maggie Cooper used to say, "If it needs more than one layer of stabilizer, there's something wrong with the digitizing!"
Remember that if you're embroidering clothing, and you have 2 or more layers of TearAway stabilizer under the stitches, those stitches live there forever, making the garment stiff. 
I once purchased a beautiful embroidered dress from a high end store. I knew nothing about machine embroidery at the time but realize now that the stabilizer was a PolyMesh. I assumed that with washing the embroidered area would soften up. It never did. I even trimmed out as much of the PolyMesh as I could, but to no avail. It was an expensive lesson, but one that in years to come helped me to discern a better use of stabilizers!
Favymtz

--
Favymtz 


Re: Puckers in embroidery

Pixey
 

Thanks Jim.  Blue tips are my typical go to needle unless I am working with quilting layers, in which case I go with a purple tip.

Pixey


On Jul 22, 2020, at 2:33 PM, Jim Stutsman via groups.io <onlinesewing@...> wrote:

A good friend sent this in today:

For the people who were having puckered fabric I discovered that changing to a blue tip needle took care of the problem.  I was using 2 layers of tearaway stabilizer and a firmly woven cotton.  Don't know if this would help them, I think the fabric makes a difference.


Re: USB A 3.0 extender doesn’t work

41ford Astleford
 

Finally got the nerve to try the USB 3.0 extender and it works fine on my 400E that I bought last year.  I am also using a 16 GB flash drive with no problems.  I made subfiles under the EMF file for each group of embroidery designs ie: flowers, animals, etc. Most of my embroidery files are on this flash drive and I have had no problem.  Love my Janome!


Re: Puckers in embroidery

Kay Davis
 

How do you “stiffen the fabric”?  Or do the stabilizers do that?

On Thu, Jul 23, 2020 at 10:06 AM favymtz <favymtz@...> wrote:
Pixey, yes it does stay stable after pre shrinking it. However, I find that it's still rather sensitive to heat, so be careful what it's used on. 
Over the years I discovered that I don't like it much except for on items that won't see an iron! It's often recommended for t-shirts and other clothing, but I was never really thrilled with the results.
My experience is that I do this with clothing: I stiffen up the fabric real good and use either a Tear Away or a Wash Away. And because I digitize I often-times will either create my own designs or alter a purchased design to assure that it isn't too stitch dense for the fabric/clothing. I like my embroidered clothing to maintain a nice drape and not be stiff behind the embroidery.
For items that don't need to be drapey, I will fuse on a lightweight interfacing product as has been mentioned by Jane and Patricia in this conversation. (Shape Flex, Knit Fuse, etc.)
One other thing that I try to remember is what our old friend and master digitizer Maggie Cooper used to say, "If it needs more than one layer of stabilizer, there's something wrong with the digitizing!"
Remember that if you're embroidering clothing, and you have 2 or more layers of TearAway stabilizer under the stitches, those stitches live there forever, making the garment stiff. 
I once purchased a beautiful embroidered dress from a high end store. I knew nothing about machine embroidery at the time but realize now that the stabilizer was a PolyMesh. I assumed that with washing the embroidered area would soften up. It never did. I even trimmed out as much of the PolyMesh as I could, but to no avail. It was an expensive lesson, but one that in years to come helped me to discern a better use of stabilizers!
Favymtz

--
Favymtz 


Re: Puckers in embroidery

favymtz
 

Pixey, yes it does stay stable after pre shrinking it. However, I find that it's still rather sensitive to heat, so be careful what it's used on. 
Over the years I discovered that I don't like it much except for on items that won't see an iron! It's often recommended for t-shirts and other clothing, but I was never really thrilled with the results.
My experience is that I do this with clothing: I stiffen up the fabric real good and use either a Tear Away or a Wash Away. And because I digitize I often-times will either create my own designs or alter a purchased design to assure that it isn't too stitch dense for the fabric/clothing. I like my embroidered clothing to maintain a nice drape and not be stiff behind the embroidery.
For items that don't need to be drapey, I will fuse on a lightweight interfacing product as has been mentioned by Jane and Patricia in this conversation. (Shape Flex, Knit Fuse, etc.)
One other thing that I try to remember is what our old friend and master digitizer Maggie Cooper used to say, "If it needs more than one layer of stabilizer, there's something wrong with the digitizing!"
Remember that if you're embroidering clothing, and you have 2 or more layers of TearAway stabilizer under the stitches, those stitches live there forever, making the garment stiff. 
I once purchased a beautiful embroidered dress from a high end store. I knew nothing about machine embroidery at the time but realize now that the stabilizer was a PolyMesh. I assumed that with washing the embroidered area would soften up. It never did. I even trimmed out as much of the PolyMesh as I could, but to no avail. It was an expensive lesson, but one that in years to come helped me to discern a better use of stabilizers!
Favymtz

--
Favymtz 


Re: Elna Haute Couture 9600 Screen Freezes Up

asmith03015@...
 

Thanks so much for your help!


Re: Elna Haute Couture 9600 Screen Freezes Up

Jim Stutsman
 

It sounds like the touch screen hardware is not working consistently. At the simplest level it may be a cable that has worked loose. The other end of the spectrum would be a failed screen. There is nothing you can do yourself to fix it, and parts may be needed. Cost is hard to predict. If the machine is less than 5 years old the part may be covered by warranty.


Elna Haute Couture 9600 Screen Freezes Up

asmith03015@...
 

Hi!  I have a problem with my touch screen freezing up.  I can't do anything with it.  It is just so frustrating.  I shut it off and then sometimes when I turn it back on  it might work for me.  Do you happen to know why it is doing this?   Also, any idea of what it will cost to fix the problem?  
Thanks much!

Arlene


Re: Puckers in embroidery

Jim Stutsman
 

A good friend sent this in today:

For the people who were having puckered fabric I discovered that changing to a blue tip needle took care of the problem.  I was using 2 layers of tearaway stabilizer and a firmly woven cotton.  Don't know if this would help them, I think the fabric makes a difference.


patch sandwich?

Joyce Daniel
 

I just put together a patch design in software for a HS senior of her school name, year, tiger paw.

Wondering what makes a good patch “sandwich” so far as outside fabric, stabilizer, etc?

Any suggestions very much appreciated as I might be making more of these.

Thanks!!! Joyce in 97 degree GA

 

“All you have shall some day be given;

Therefore, give now, that the season

of giving may be yours, and not

of your inheritors.”

Kahill Gibran

 

“Give” is my favorite 4-letter word

 


Re: Puckers in embroidery

Pixey
 

Thanks for this information.  I use poly mesh style stabilizers (different brands) a lot and did not know it had a reputation for this.  But it could explain some belated puckering I have experienced...which I had attributed it more to the cotton blend t-shirts shrinking even though I had prewashed them rather than the stabilizer.  Once preshrunk, does it then stay stable?

Pixey


On Jul 22, 2020, at 9:12 AM, favymtz <favymtz@...> wrote:

The stabilizer that's notorius for causing puckering and REALLY needs to be pre-shrunk is the mesh style Cut Away (PolyMesh is one brand name).
It shrinks with heat or water so you can either steam it before using it or soak it in warm water.
If you don't preshrink it you're guaranteed to get puckers when you press the embroidery!
--
Favymtz

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