Date   

Repair a Black Broken Hoop Locking Knob?

Cat - N
 

My friend has a Janome 14000 and was doing a fairly simple ITH appliqué on a t-shirt for her grandson. When she was attaching the hoop to the embroidery arm, the black, plastic, ‘locking knob’ broke off. She switched to a different hoop to complete the project, but would like to get the knob replaced. Is that possible or is she looking at buying a whole new hoop?

Thank you!

- Cat

Typos courtesy of autocorrect. 


Re: Digitizer 5

Barbara Wolcott
 

Jim, you are a treasure trove of information. I knew I could count on you to give me the information I need to make my purchase.  Now to start the search. 
Thank you so very much. 
Barbara

Barbara Wolcott
barb2220@...

On May 15, 2021, at 3:57 PM, Jim Stutsman via groups.io <onlinesewing@...> wrote:

There are legions of Windows laptops available, from many different manufacturers. Competition is so fierce that just about all of them are made to achieve the lowest price. Finding the "best" becomes challenging, because every single off-the-shelf model is compromised in some way to lower the cost enough for the manufacturer to make a profit. They are also mostly made to be disposable, and often people who get infected with a virus will just buy another computer and start over. To decide what's truly best for you requires you to know some basic facts:

RAM - this is Random Access Memory, meaning the actual chips that programs occupy while running. It's more expensive to make than hard disk drives. Typically a Windows computer will have 8GB, which is enough for Windows 10 to run fairly well, but not great for programs that use a lot of graphics and computation (like Digitizer). Plan on a minimum of 16GB for best performance. More is usually better.

Storage - RAM memory is completely emptied when power is turned off. Long term storage is managed with hard disk drives (HDD), which have gotten cheaper and cheaper. They spin during operation, and being mechanical will wear out eventually. The read/write mechanism is fixed in place, so reading data means waiting until its position on the "platter" gets under the read/write head. That makes them a LOT slower than RAM. One trick they use is to sell a computer is to offer a really large (1TB, which is 1,000GB), but relatively slow (and cheap) hard drive. The new trend is Solid State Drives (SSD), which as the name implies, have no moving parts. Data access is very fast, but these also will wear out eventually. Typically, though, they last a lot longer than a hard drive. I no longer buy anything else. Get SSD.

CPU Speed - This is a meaningless number. It's the equivalent to what a long deceased friend used to cynically say about cars: "It comes with high speed floor mats and racing door handles." More cores (also not that important) and higher megahertz numbers will be marginally faster, but not enough for you to notice.

Graphics - Another area for a manufacturer to cheap out in order to have a great price. The giveaway here is the word "integrated" in the description of the graphics. This means the graphics use some of the main computer's RAM for storing screen images. In programs like Digitizer this will result in poor performance, and it may not even work properly. Having a separate graphics card is best. These cards have their own RAM, usually in the area of 128MB or more. More is better in this case.

Case - If this laptop is going to be used on a desk with minimal travel, it doesn't matter much. But if you are going to be schlepping it to classes, retreats, grandkids, etc., then a plastic case (which is typical) is going to suffer. Some companies offer plastic that looks like metal, but isn't (Looking at you HP!). A sturdy aluminum case will cost more, but if you're going to be traveling with it, you'll be glad you spent extra.

Reviews - Last, but not to be overlooked. No matter where you plan to purchase your computer, you should check reviews. Sites that only sell computers may not have totally objective reviews. Amazon posts both good and bad. However ALL of the review lists on all sites tend to be gamed by both manufacturers and sellers. They will push 4 and 5 stars to promote a model, or 1 and 2 stars to take down a competitor. The only reviews you can usually trust are 3 stars. This will give you insight into what the purchaser didn't like. It may be something you don't care about, but if you see a trend you know there's a problem.

Since you mention Mac, which is all I use now, I'll add some comments about that. The main argument against Mac is the cost. Yes, there is a price premium. However the build quality is substantially better, and holds up over time much better. While you can install Windows on an X86 (more about that in a minute), I much prefer to use VMware Fusion or Parallels. These are programs that create a virtual computer inside the Mac. Typically they run almost as fast as a native computer. Backing up is easy, since the entire "computer" is one chunk of data that can be copied to an external disk drive. There are negatives - you still have to purchase a copy of Windows to use with these programs. You have to set up the virtual machine and install Windows yourself. It's gotten easier, but it's still not quite plug and play. One advantage of using a virtual machine is that you can run older versions of Windows, since the virtual machine is tailored to what you have. However you cannot use the Windows CD from an old computer, since those are all tied directly to the hardware they were sold with. You also can't use that copy of Windows your brother-in-law found that "fell off a truck". It has to be an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer, which in this case is you) version, and typically is not cheap.

Final words on Mac - it was a watershed event when Steve Jobs announced that Apple was switching to Intel hardware in 2007, because it opened the door for Windows to be used on a Mac. Starting with the 8086 chip, then 286, 386, 486, etc. this family of chips has become generally known as X86. Windows was built for X86. However starting last year, Apple has started making their own computer chips. The first one, called M1, is a full computer on a chip and is astoundingly faster than nearly all X86 computers while using substantially less power. That makes for longer battery life. There is currently no way to run Windows on a Mac using the M1 chip set. However because everyone is flocking to M1 machines (guilty as charged, should be here next month), the X86 models are being discounted by all the usual big box stores. If you want a Mac to run Windows, make certain that it is X86 based, not M1.

Now, having told you far more than you ever asked for, I will retire to my office. Cheers!


Re: Digitizer 5

Jim Stutsman
 

There are legions of Windows laptops available, from many different manufacturers. Competition is so fierce that just about all of them are made to achieve the lowest price. Finding the "best" becomes challenging, because every single off-the-shelf model is compromised in some way to lower the cost enough for the manufacturer to make a profit. They are also mostly made to be disposable, and often people who get infected with a virus will just buy another computer and start over. To decide what's truly best for you requires you to know some basic facts:

RAM - this is Random Access Memory, meaning the actual chips that programs occupy while running. It's more expensive to make than hard disk drives. Typically a Windows computer will have 8GB, which is enough for Windows 10 to run fairly well, but not great for programs that use a lot of graphics and computation (like Digitizer). Plan on a minimum of 16GB for best performance. More is usually better.

Storage - RAM memory is completely emptied when power is turned off. Long term storage is managed with hard disk drives (HDD), which have gotten cheaper and cheaper. They spin during operation, and being mechanical will wear out eventually. The read/write mechanism is fixed in place, so reading data means waiting until its position on the "platter" gets under the read/write head. That makes them a LOT slower than RAM. One trick they use is to sell a computer is to offer a really large (1TB, which is 1,000GB), but relatively slow (and cheap) hard drive. The new trend is Solid State Drives (SSD), which as the name implies, have no moving parts. Data access is very fast, but these also will wear out eventually. Typically, though, they last a lot longer than a hard drive. I no longer buy anything else. Get SSD.

CPU Speed - This is a meaningless number. It's the equivalent to what a long deceased friend used to cynically say about cars: "It comes with high speed floor mats and racing door handles." More cores (also not that important) and higher megahertz numbers will be marginally faster, but not enough for you to notice.

Graphics - Another area for a manufacturer to cheap out in order to have a great price. The giveaway here is the word "integrated" in the description of the graphics. This means the graphics use some of the main computer's RAM for storing screen images. In programs like Digitizer this will result in poor performance, and it may not even work properly. Having a separate graphics card is best. These cards have their own RAM, usually in the area of 128MB or more. More is better in this case.

Case - If this laptop is going to be used on a desk with minimal travel, it doesn't matter much. But if you are going to be schlepping it to classes, retreats, grandkids, etc., then a plastic case (which is typical) is going to suffer. Some companies offer plastic that looks like metal, but isn't (Looking at you HP!). A sturdy aluminum case will cost more, but if you're going to be traveling with it, you'll be glad you spent extra.

Reviews - Last, but not to be overlooked. No matter where you plan to purchase your computer, you should check reviews. Sites that only sell computers may not have totally objective reviews. Amazon posts both good and bad. However ALL of the review lists on all sites tend to be gamed by both manufacturers and sellers. They will push 4 and 5 stars to promote a model, or 1 and 2 stars to take down a competitor. The only reviews you can usually trust are 3 stars. This will give you insight into what the purchaser didn't like. It may be something you don't care about, but if you see a trend you know there's a problem.

Since you mention Mac, which is all I use now, I'll add some comments about that. The main argument against Mac is the cost. Yes, there is a price premium. However the build quality is substantially better, and holds up over time much better. While you can install Windows on an X86 (more about that in a minute), I much prefer to use VMware Fusion or Parallels. These are programs that create a virtual computer inside the Mac. Typically they run almost as fast as a native computer. Backing up is easy, since the entire "computer" is one chunk of data that can be copied to an external disk drive. There are negatives - you still have to purchase a copy of Windows to use with these programs. You have to set up the virtual machine and install Windows yourself. It's gotten easier, but it's still not quite plug and play. One advantage of using a virtual machine is that you can run older versions of Windows, since the virtual machine is tailored to what you have. However you cannot use the Windows CD from an old computer, since those are all tied directly to the hardware they were sold with. You also can't use that copy of Windows your brother-in-law found that "fell off a truck". It has to be an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer, which in this case is you) version, and typically is not cheap.

Final words on Mac - it was a watershed event when Steve Jobs announced that Apple was switching to Intel hardware in 2007, because it opened the door for Windows to be used on a Mac. Starting with the 8086 chip, then 286, 386, 486, etc. this family of chips has become generally known as X86. Windows was built for X86. However starting last year, Apple has started making their own computer chips. The first one, called M1, is a full computer on a chip and is astoundingly faster than nearly all X86 computers while using substantially less power. That makes for longer battery life. There is currently no way to run Windows on a Mac using the M1 chip set. However because everyone is flocking to M1 machines (guilty as charged, should be here next month), the X86 models are being discounted by all the usual big box stores. If you want a Mac to run Windows, make certain that it is X86 based, not M1.

Now, having told you far more than you ever asked for, I will retire to my office. Cheers!


Digitizer 5

Barbara Wolcott
 

I’m currently running Digitizer 5 on Windows7. Desperately need new laptop as program runs very slowly. As much as I’d like
to purchase a MAC, I feel I’m safer running it on PC. Looking for advice on best laptop to purchase.
Thanks-Barbara

Barbara Wolcott
barb2220@gmail.com


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Pixey
 

With the arm taking up room and having to move freely inside the throat of the machine, I do find it more difficult to do larger or bulkier projects on my 500e. But like you, I am a bit of a machine junkie and am spoiled with my 15000 for that particular use. Or as I also explain to my husband, there is no one perfect machine for all applications and purposes. Fortunately he gets it.

Those were great stories about your family. On the “challenge” of sewing straight seams down the borders, try getting some easy remove painters tape. Lay out the quilt and stick it on, then you can use the edges as a guide and it will stay in place while bunched up on one’s lap.

Pixey

On May 14, 2021, at 7:49 AM, Cheryl Paul <capaul@sasktel.net> wrote:

There shouldn’t be a problem quilting a quite large quilt on any of the Janome machines. You roll the quilt up and it fits quite nicely on the inside of the bed of the machine. I’m sure that it will on a 500E too. I haven’t actually done anything really large because I’m a bit lazy and also am terrified of layering the backing, batting and the top to be really secure. I haven’t a large enough table to use and I just can’t manage to do it on the floor. However, a friend told me what she does and I will try that. She asked if I had one of those cardboard cutting mats and I do. She says that she puts hers on her table and clamps one side down, and starts with the backing and smooths that out as best she can, clips in onto the board, then does the batting next and finally the top and pins that section with quilting pins. The weight of the quilt holds things down and the excess drapes of the other side. Once pinned she moves the quilt over on the board and secures the rest of the quilt with pins. She does a lot of quilts and has taken a few classes on quilting using the walking foot. She also does some free motion quilting but I’m not fond of doing free motion but I think I will try the scuffed flex on my Continental M7 or my 15000 - I have a few options as I’m a machine junkie.

I’m wishing just a little that I’d had this coffee date before taking young Gerald’s quilt to the quilter’s on Monday. Gerald is going to make little brother, Archer a quilt like his with the left overs for his quilt - I’ll find something to make it different but we can use up the extra squares. Piper, who will be 10 a few days before Gerald turns 13 still needs to finish her quilt - she used orphan blocks from the 3 quilts I made for her and her 2 cousins last summer. We just haven’t decided on the “hand look stitches” yet on the M7. They will be long rows, so we’ll have to devise a way to make “straight” lines down the borders.

Piper and Ava, picked out a design and Piper quilted that quilt - a good sized lap quilt on my 15000. These children must be accountants and engineers in the making as they are so precise. She got those blocks lined up EXACTLY on the centre cross-hairs - I was amazed and really impressed as she might be 10 but a very tiny light weight young lady. Archer hasn’t started sewing yet, except hand sewing, so he’ll be next. His sisters will teach him and so will his mother and I. My 6600 was given to them when I got a 7700 about 10 years ago. I guess they sort of fight over who gets to sew and have to bring out their Mom’s smaller Janome to sometimes settle things - Mom even has to wait her turn so the children tell me.

If I remember, I’ll put some pictures in the “photo section” once we get Gerald’s finished - Piper should be finished by then too.

Cheryl - Saskatoon




Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

June E Hudspeth
 

WOW oh WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How proud you must be Cheryl!

I would be so excited to see some photos.

Thanks for sharing.

-----Original Message-----
From: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io> On Behalf Of Cheryl Paul
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2021 9:40 PM
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] embroidering on a sportswear shirt

There shouldn’t be a problem quilting a quite large quilt on any of the Janome machines. You roll the quilt up and it fits quite nicely on the inside of the bed of the machine. I’m sure that it will on a 500E too. I haven’t actually done anything really large because I’m a bit lazy and also am terrified of layering the backing, batting and the top to be really secure. I haven’t a large enough table to use and I just can’t manage to do it on the floor. However, a friend told me what she does and I will try that. She asked if I had one of those cardboard cutting mats and I do. She says that she puts hers on her table and clamps one side down, and starts with the backing and smooths that out as best she can, clips in onto the board, then does the batting next and finally the top and pins that section with quilting pins. The weight of the quilt holds things down and the excess drapes of the other side. Once pinned she moves the quilt over on the board and secures the rest of the quilt with pins. She does a lot of quilts and has taken a few classes on quilting using the walking foot. She also does some free motion quilting but I’m not fond of doing free motion but I think I will try the scuffed flex on my Continental M7 or my 15000 - I have a few options as I’m a machine junkie.

I’m wishing just a little that I’d had this coffee date before taking young Gerald’s quilt to the quilter’s on Monday. Gerald is going to make little brother, Archer a quilt like his with the left overs for his quilt - I’ll find something to make it different but we can use up the extra squares. Piper, who will be 10 a few days before Gerald turns 13 still needs to finish her quilt - she used orphan blocks from the 3 quilts I made for her and her 2 cousins last summer. We just haven’t decided on the “hand look stitches” yet on the M7. They will be long rows, so we’ll have to devise a way to make “straight” lines down the borders.

Piper and Ava, picked out a design and Piper quilted that quilt - a good sized lap quilt on my 15000. These children must be accountants and engineers in the making as they are so precise. She got those blocks lined up EXACTLY on the centre cross-hairs - I was amazed and really impressed as she might be 10 but a very tiny light weight young lady. Archer hasn’t started sewing yet, except hand sewing, so he’ll be next. His sisters will teach him and so will his mother and I. My 6600 was given to them when I got a 7700 about 10 years ago. I guess they sort of fight over who gets to sew and have to bring out their Mom’s smaller Janome to sometimes settle things - Mom even has to wait her turn so the children tell me.

If I remember, I’ll put some pictures in the “photo section” once we get Gerald’s finished - Piper should be finished by then too.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Cheryl Paul
 

There shouldn’t be a problem quilting a quite large quilt on any of the Janome machines. You roll the quilt up and it fits quite nicely on the inside of the bed of the machine. I’m sure that it will on a 500E too. I haven’t actually done anything really large because I’m a bit lazy and also am terrified of layering the backing, batting and the top to be really secure. I haven’t a large enough table to use and I just can’t manage to do it on the floor. However, a friend told me what she does and I will try that. She asked if I had one of those cardboard cutting mats and I do. She says that she puts hers on her table and clamps one side down, and starts with the backing and smooths that out as best she can, clips in onto the board, then does the batting next and finally the top and pins that section with quilting pins. The weight of the quilt holds things down and the excess drapes of the other side. Once pinned she moves the quilt over on the board and secures the rest of the quilt with pins. She does a lot of quilts and has taken a few classes on quilting using the walking foot. She also does some free motion quilting but I’m not fond of doing free motion but I think I will try the scuffed flex on my Continental M7 or my 15000 - I have a few options as I’m a machine junkie.

I’m wishing just a little that I’d had this coffee date before taking young Gerald’s quilt to the quilter’s on Monday. Gerald is going to make little brother, Archer a quilt like his with the left overs for his quilt - I’ll find something to make it different but we can use up the extra squares. Piper, who will be 10 a few days before Gerald turns 13 still needs to finish her quilt - she used orphan blocks from the 3 quilts I made for her and her 2 cousins last summer. We just haven’t decided on the “hand look stitches” yet on the M7. They will be long rows, so we’ll have to devise a way to make “straight” lines down the borders.

Piper and Ava, picked out a design and Piper quilted that quilt - a good sized lap quilt on my 15000. These children must be accountants and engineers in the making as they are so precise. She got those blocks lined up EXACTLY on the centre cross-hairs - I was amazed and really impressed as she might be 10 but a very tiny light weight young lady. Archer hasn’t started sewing yet, except hand sewing, so he’ll be next. His sisters will teach him and so will his mother and I. My 6600 was given to them when I got a 7700 about 10 years ago. I guess they sort of fight over who gets to sew and have to bring out their Mom’s smaller Janome to sometimes settle things - Mom even has to wait her turn so the children tell me.

If I remember, I’ll put some pictures in the “photo section” once we get Gerald’s finished - Piper should be finished by then too.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Pixey
 

Hi Roberta,

I haven’t tried the DIME magnetic hoop the others were suggesting, but I did get the AcuFil Quilting Kit with the ASQ18b hoop.  I thought it might work better for quilting smaller projects than the bigger ASQ22 hoop for my 15000.   I would not recommend it for quilting projects larger than an 8” square.  The design of the hoop is such that there is really not enough clearance space in the gap between the side of the hoop and the support frame that connects to the pins on the arm for the bulk of working on the interior of a quilt and the large magnets holding it in place.

You can see what I mean from the picture from the Janome website.

Pixey

On May 11, 2021, at 3:11 PM, Roberta K via groups.io <robkon94@...> wrote:

@Cheryl-Saskatoon:

I have the 500E. I have been wondering how to hoop a quilt sandwich without it popping out of the hoop. Any suggestions from you or anyone here would be great. 

Thanks,
Roberta in FL


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

June E Hudspeth
 

I have to say; I love hearing stories about "children" sewing or learning how to sew! It truly warms my heart.

Also, would you send your grandson to me for a few weeks, I'd love to have someone who can sew 1/4" seams consistently; as I surely can't, LOL.

-----Original Message-----
From: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io> On Behalf Of Cheryl Paul
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2021 8:13 AM
To: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io
Subject: Re: [onlinesewing-janome] embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Roberta in Fl,

I don’t have a 500E but a 15000 and S9. The 15000 has the quilting hoop which called the SQ22 hoop meaning that it is 220 mm X 220 mm (8.66" X 8.66”) - nice size. I haven’t used the hoop often for doing a project that requires many hooping but I have a few times. The magnets jumped off, of course, but I stopped and put them on again. However, it was never all of them but sometimes at least 2. When this happened, I’d put it back on and sometimes it jumped off again and again. This was extremely frustrating and then I though, “what the heck, I try to just carry on without it. The most guilty magnet was the upper left one and I found that it really didn’t change anything, even though it was a terrifying thought that I might have to take out stitching - Un-sewing is never fun. The first quilt I did was 7 years ago when my son’s last baby boy was born - in this quilt the design jumped out of alignment either to left or right and I didn’t notice until the design was complete. I may have been interrupted and had to shut the project down to be completed later - can’t remember. I was upset at the time but just carried on without fixing it. When the quilt was finished I couldn’t find the culprit block, so you see how sometimes it might not matter that it’s not absolutely perfect. That young man was a baby then and wouldn’t have known, his mother was elated that Grandma produced something for her 4th baby that was new and well Daddy figures his Mom is awesome and makes things for his children and watches over them and still does.

What I’m trying to tell you is “give the machine a chance” and “practice, practice, practice”. Things might not always work out the way they’re planned but we can’t give up. We do save hundreds of dollars by doing it ourselves and it is OURS, warts and all and we should be very proud of what we’ve accomplished.

Having said all that, the older brother age almost 13, has been with Grandma making his own birthday present - YES ANOTHER QUILT. This went to the long arm quilter in my neighbourhhood as it is bigger than I want to tackle and the quilting & fabrics are my contribution to his gift. I cut all the squares, he sashed them and sewed everyone and I have to tell you that he sews an awesome 1/4” seam allowance consistently. We had very few un-sewing times in the quilt. The funniest thing that happened on the first day, was that the tension was amuck on my S9 using the HP2 system and none of us noticed. Thankfully it was only 4 blocks and we didn’t have time to sew the individual blocks together. I noticed it the next week when we were sewing again. Needless to say we pulled that loose thread out and started over. I put him on my M7 and worked on the S9 until I got it figured out - I didn’t need a repair bill. The machine wasn’t full of lint, but the feed dogs were - how I forgot those when I last cleaned lint from the bobbin area, I don’t know. It’s something that I won’t forget again any time soon.

Just to add a little more bragging to this wonderful family (and I have 3 girls with 9 more grandchildren) that the girls aged 15½ and almost 10 are already very good seamstresses.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Cheryl Paul
 

Roberta, I forgot to mention that I have a friend with a 500E and she purchased the DIME hoops and is quite happy with them on her trial run, last summer.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Cheryl Paul
 

Roberta in Fl,

I don’t have a 500E but a 15000 and S9. The 15000 has the quilting hoop which called the SQ22 hoop meaning that it is 220 mm X 220 mm (8.66" X 8.66”) - nice size. I haven’t used the hoop often for doing a project that requires many hooping but I have a few times. The magnets jumped off, of course, but I stopped and put them on again. However, it was never all of them but sometimes at least 2. When this happened, I’d put it back on and sometimes it jumped off again and again. This was extremely frustrating and then I though, “what the heck, I try to just carry on without it. The most guilty magnet was the upper left one and I found that it really didn’t change anything, even though it was a terrifying thought that I might have to take out stitching - Un-sewing is never fun. The first quilt I did was 7 years ago when my son’s last baby boy was born - in this quilt the design jumped out of alignment either to left or right and I didn’t notice until the design was complete. I may have been interrupted and had to shut the project down to be completed later - can’t remember. I was upset at the time but just carried on without fixing it. When the quilt was finished I couldn’t find the culprit block, so you see how sometimes it might not matter that it’s not absolutely perfect. That young man was a baby then and wouldn’t have known, his mother was elated that Grandma produced something for her 4th baby that was new and well Daddy figures his Mom is awesome and makes things for his children and watches over them and still does.

What I’m trying to tell you is “give the machine a chance” and “practice, practice, practice”. Things might not always work out the way they’re planned but we can’t give up. We do save hundreds of dollars by doing it ourselves and it is OURS, warts and all and we should be very proud of what we’ve accomplished.

Having said all that, the older brother age almost 13, has been with Grandma making his own birthday present - YES ANOTHER QUILT. This went to the long arm quilter in my neighbourhhood as it is bigger than I want to tackle and the quilting & fabrics are my contribution to his gift. I cut all the squares, he sashed them and sewed everyone and I have to tell you that he sews an awesome 1/4” seam allowance consistently. We had very few un-sewing times in the quilt. The funniest thing that happened on the first day, was that the tension was amuck on my S9 using the HP2 system and none of us noticed. Thankfully it was only 4 blocks and we didn’t have time to sew the individual blocks together. I noticed it the next week when we were sewing again. Needless to say we pulled that loose thread out and started over. I put him on my M7 and worked on the S9 until I got it figured out - I didn’t need a repair bill. The machine wasn’t full of lint, but the feed dogs were - how I forgot those when I last cleaned lint from the bobbin area, I don’t know. It’s something that I won’t forget again any time soon.

Just to add a little more bragging to this wonderful family (and I have 3 girls with 9 more grandchildren) that the girls aged 15½ and almost 10 are already very good seamstresses.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

norma carson
 

I had that problem and I used the hoop clamps that came with it...just do one side then the other..good luck
Norma


On May 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Beth <beth_weigt@...> wrote:

Roberta - you might want to invest in a magnetic hoop by DIME (designs in machinery embroidery). They make one for the 500e. Also check their site they are doing free classes on doing quilting with our embroidery machines.


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Beth
 

Roberta - you might want to invest in a magnetic hoop by DIME (designs in machinery embroidery). They make one for the 500e. Also check their site they are doing free classes on doing quilting with our embroidery machines.


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Roberta K
 

@Cheryl-Saskatoon:

I have the 500E. I have been wondering how to hoop a quilt sandwich without it popping out of the hoop. Any suggestions from you or anyone here would be great. 

Thanks,
Roberta in FL


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Joyce Daniel
 

thanks!!! Sounds like exactly the "sandwich" I need. Love the idea of having a stash of different fabrics to do a sample. Joyce


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Cheryl Paul
 

Cheryl,

I would use iron-on no-show mesh on the bottom of the sport shirt BUT I would hoop it as it is a light weight fabric - I’ve never had hoop burn, but I don’t usually embroider heave fabrics (expect quilts that are 3 layers). You want that shirt to be VERY stable in the hoop, so that the embroidery looks really nice when you are finished. A topper, keeps the stitches laying very nice on the top of the shirt - it also looks nice. Topper is something that is a choice for things that are not fluffy like a towel or fleece on top where the thread can bury in and the detail of embroidery fades away.

As was suggested, a trial embroidery is always recommended, but it isn’t always possible IF you don’t have a scrap or an old item to use for that trial.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: Alternate way to thread/wind a Janome bobbin?

Pixey
 

Hi Linda,

You don’t indicate which machine model you are using.  If it is one of the newer machines, the Lockout button shows on the screen as a Key.  On some machines with digital display it is one of the options across the bottom (to the far right) or on the right hand side (at the bottom).  For older machines, there is not a separate lockout button or function and raising the presser foot would often release the tension discs.

Pixey


On May 9, 2021, at 1:48 PM, Linda Thompson <lynnlind81@...> wrote:

In the part of the video you said to tap on the needle up/down button two times, then to lock the machine.  I’m clueless on locking the machine when threading.  How do I do that?


Re: Bobbin speed

Ceil J
 

Thanks, Jim!  I will continue to wind at the fastest speed then.  You and Diane are the best.


On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 6:33 PM Jim Stutsman via groups.io <onlinesewing=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
You can wind sewing and most embroidery threads at full speed. But monofilament and any thread that is stretchy should be wound at slow speed. Monofilament wound at high speed will actually compress the core of the bobbin to the point that it cannot be removed from the winder.


Re: embroidering on a sportswear shirt

Cheryl Alm
 

I use a fusible no show mesh on back of shirt.  Hoop sticky stabilizer in hoop and "float" shirt rather than hooping so as to not get hoop burn on shirt.  Then use a water soluble topper and the baste function on the machine.  I have collected various garments of different fabrics from thrift shops to test designs before committing to my project garment.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


From: onlinesewing-janome@groups.io <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io> on behalf of Joyce Daniel <mdaniel@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 9, 2021 6:21:08 AM
To: 12000GRP <onlinesewing-janome@groups.io>
Subject: [onlinesewing-janome] embroidering on a sportswear shirt
 

I would like to embroider a school name on the front of a tshirt that is of the slicky ltwt knit sportswear fabric. Like you would wear to exercise class.

Any suggestions for stabilizers top/bottom/etc? I’ve never embroidered on this type fabric.

TIA! Joyce

 

 

 

We are all tourists, God is our travel agent

who has already identified our routes,

bookings, and destinations…..trust Him always

and enjoy the beautiful life He has given you.

Charlie Chaplin

 


Re: Bobbin speed

Jim Stutsman
 

You can wind sewing and most embroidery threads at full speed. But monofilament and any thread that is stretchy should be wound at slow speed. Monofilament wound at high speed will actually compress the core of the bobbin to the point that it cannot be removed from the winder.

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