Date   

In memoriam

Jim Stutsman
 

A few months back I received an email from Maggie Cooper, owner of the immensely popular Digitizer Self-help group on Yahoo. There are a number of her posts on this list as well, as she answered any and all questions relating to digitizing. Maggie, better known as Mags, had written to ask that I remove her from our group. She had been diagnosed with terminal cancer and chose to forego further treatment in the hope of better using her remaining time. I chose not to remove her membership, but rather keep it as a remembrance of her and all of the help that she provided to so many.

I'm sorry to report that Maggie has passed away, in her sleep. Her group has been managed by volunteers for a while now, and will continue. I shall miss her wit, her wisdom, and her standing as one of the greats in our techno-sewing community. Rest in peace, dear Mags.


Re: presser foot is not working...........

Jim Stutsman
 

With the machine turned off, try to lift the foot manually. If you can't, then it's technician time. If you are able to raise it, loosen the screw and remove the entire foot holder. Then turn it on and see if it raises & lowers correctly. If not, again time for a tech. If it does, try reattaching the foot, making sure it's positioned correctly.


presser foot is not working...........

Gloria Lewis
 

I just changed into regular sewing mode and put on the correct foot but the machine will not lift the foot when I press the button (presser foot lifter button)   I do not use the knee lifter.   I have turned the machine off and waited and tried again to no avail.   Any suggestions?   Thanks so much.

Gloria Lewis


Re: Bobbin question

Lorrie Gauthier
 

I've gone through the couple of hundred bobbins I have and pulled out the J, B and nice looking bobbins. I really don't need that many. LOL  And I have a box of pink ones.

I also found that I have plastic bobbin boxes that have sponge in them and and hold 10. Three that say Janome on the top and one that says Kenmore. That comes from my mom's machine from the 70s and the Janome ones came with my machines starting with my MC 6000.


Re: New presser feet

Jim Stutsman
 

Those are all 7mm feet. You can get a 7mm foot holder for your 12000 (part #830504017) that will allow you to use the feet. However the feed dogs will not hit a foot in the same spot, which might affect how the sew. Also you must be very careful to never exceed a 7mm stitch width.


New presser feet

Jeanne
 

a friend passed on some never used presser feet for her older Jan0me40 — maybe an 8000?  They do not snap onto the shank of my Janome 12000.  They are too narrow.  Does it make sense to purchase a different shank to accommodate these feet or wouldn’t that work on my machine.  All in an effort to “make do”!


Re: Bobbin question

Anne Parker
 

I've bought bobbins in the UK, both with and without the J, and and several boxes of coloured ones from China (useful for different threads - cotton, polyester, embroidery, specific bobbin thread etc, plus different weight threads).   The occasional one or 2 of the Chinese ones have too small a central hole to fit on the winder but apart from that I have had no issue with any of them.  I've also reused some of the pre-wound bobbins after I've refilled them and again no issue - plus I've used bobbins from my old Elna Diva at times when they have the right thread on them.

All work fine in my 15000

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/

"Great dancers are not great because of their technique, they are great because of their passion"  Martha Graham


Re: Bobbin question

blue_lak
 

My 12000 doesn't have any problem with the pink, blue, or clear Janome bobbins. However, it does not like the generic class 15 plastic bobbins I sometimes use in my old Kenmore, which actually prefers the metal ones.
Jan


Re: Bobbin question

CynthiaRunsWithScissors
 

I have noticed lately I have had issues with the pink bobbins breaking when I embroider. I self wind them with Janome bobbin thread. My clear bobbins I self wind with other brands of bobbin thread for regular sewing because when I try to embroider with non-Janome bobbin thread I've had issues. First I hear a clunk then I remove the hoop to find a large bird's nest trying to embroider. Then when I remove the bobbin to inspect a piece has broken off in a diagonal. Of course my issues always seem to happen when I'm in a hurry or with someone else - lol. This past weekend I was embroidering a Minkee Pals bunny with my granddaughter, and of course, had to tear out his nose 3 times before I realized the bobbin had cracked and then broken when I removed it. Fortunately I was able to continue on without issues to finish it before her bedtime. That is a very cute pattern if any of you have not heard of it. Here's a link to purchase it. They are tiny cuddly animals.

https://www.embroideryonline.com/products/designs/non-licensed-collections/minkee-pals-1/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw19DlBRCSARIsAOnfRejCBWxodurs9ewSsuiIm72v6CrYpB1U3X4dhAZlC6mxgb2xnmXC5nkaApPFEALw_wcB

Cynthia from sunny but windy Virginia


Re: Bobbin question

HEATHER COWAN
 

Wow .... I use them in both my 15000 and 9900 and they are great.  Wonder what was different about that pesky 12000.  I’m sorry you had a problem with the pink and blue.
Heather

On Apr 14, 2019, at 20:11, J Fraker <frakersfunnyfarm@...> wrote:

I bought some of the blue and the pink Janome bobbins. They were the rubber infused kind.  I could not use them in my 12000.  It's like the rubber in them was causing them to stick to the bobbin case and they kept jumping up and down as I was sewing.  My machine would skip stitches or end up with thread nests.  I went back to the regular plastic bobbins and everything works fine.

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 11:23 AM Ceil J <cjancola@...> wrote:
I bought a box of pink Janome bobbins and a box of blue supposedly so I could tell apart the cotton and poly thread (but you can really tell just by looking at the thread).  Anyway, the pink have the J and the blue do not.  I put them behind my back and felt them to see if they had a different "flex" or if I could tell them apart by how they feel and I could not.  They look the same except for the J and they both work the same.  I've never had a problem with class 15 bobbins and have an assortment dating back to the 80's. After the discussions about the so-called superior J bobbins I went through my collection and found a few with the J but most do not have it.  I even found one with a "9" or "6" on it.  I have a prewound pack of Janome bobbins that don't have the J. Some do tend to have a very slight curve towards the center and others do seem flat but they all seem to work well.  When I first had my MC6000 (New Home) in the late 80's I even used metal bobbins in it before I found out several years ago that this was a no-no.  I would never put a metal bobbin in my 15000 but I never had a problem with the 6000 and it still runs like a dream (but no more metal bobbins!)

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 9:56 PM onlinesewing via Groups.Io <onlinesewing=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
The bobbins marked with 'B' are genuine Janome, but were made before they started infusing the plastic with rubber. There may be some J bobbins like that as well. I don't know if the J stamp was done for the rubber-infused ones, or if it was in use before that. No suggestions - just use and enjoy!


Re: Bobbin question

J Fraker
 

I bought some of the blue and the pink Janome bobbins. They were the rubber infused kind.  I could not use them in my 12000.  It's like the rubber in them was causing them to stick to the bobbin case and they kept jumping up and down as I was sewing.  My machine would skip stitches or end up with thread nests.  I went back to the regular plastic bobbins and everything works fine.


On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 11:23 AM Ceil J <cjancola@...> wrote:
I bought a box of pink Janome bobbins and a box of blue supposedly so I could tell apart the cotton and poly thread (but you can really tell just by looking at the thread).  Anyway, the pink have the J and the blue do not.  I put them behind my back and felt them to see if they had a different "flex" or if I could tell them apart by how they feel and I could not.  They look the same except for the J and they both work the same.  I've never had a problem with class 15 bobbins and have an assortment dating back to the 80's. After the discussions about the so-called superior J bobbins I went through my collection and found a few with the J but most do not have it.  I even found one with a "9" or "6" on it.  I have a prewound pack of Janome bobbins that don't have the J. Some do tend to have a very slight curve towards the center and others do seem flat but they all seem to work well.  When I first had my MC6000 (New Home) in the late 80's I even used metal bobbins in it before I found out several years ago that this was a no-no.  I would never put a metal bobbin in my 15000 but I never had a problem with the 6000 and it still runs like a dream (but no more metal bobbins!)

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 9:56 PM onlinesewing via Groups.Io <onlinesewing=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
The bobbins marked with 'B' are genuine Janome, but were made before they started infusing the plastic with rubber. There may be some J bobbins like that as well. I don't know if the J stamp was done for the rubber-infused ones, or if it was in use before that. No suggestions - just use and enjoy!


Re: Bobbin question

HEATHER COWAN
 

I love that Janome has three colors of bobbins easily available. Wish they had a few more. I wind piecing thread on blue bobbins, embroidery bobbin thread on the pink ones and garment/other bobbin thread on the clear ones. I don’t have to guess which white thread is on the bobbin ..... which is good because there is a 66% chance I’d guess wrong. Garment bobbin thread used when doing embroidery does not lend itself to a good outcome.
Hugs Heather


Re: Bobbin question

Marilyn Fleming
 


I have both red and blue bobbins and they both have the J on them. I got them at Amazon.

Marilyn
Sent from my ipad

On Apr 14, 2019, at 11:41 AM, onlinesewing via Groups.Io <onlinesewing@...> wrote:

The bobbins with rubber infusion don't flex any more than the plain ones, but I can feel a difference when sliding a finger over the surface of the bobbin. The rubber-infused ones are not quite a slick, which is the intent. It makes the bobbin a little more "grippy" in the bobbin case.

The prohibition on using metal bobbins in a top-loading Janome machine stems from the magnet holding the bobbin case in place. Plastic bobbins are immune to the pull of the magnet, but metal bobbins could drag a bit, resulting in slightly increased bobbin tension. Over the years I had MANY customers that used metal and plastic bobbins interchangeably, most because a particular bobbin might already be wound with the needed thread color. None had any machine problems as a result. A metal bobbin won't make your machine blow up, and it may not produce any effect you can observe. However if you have a vast collection of metal bobbins salvaged from great-grandma's box of sewing stuff retrieved from the barn, and they are coated with a generous patina of rust, chuck them out!

And while we're on the subject of bobbins, let's address those precious "rainbow" bobbins in your sewing cabinet. You know, the ones that have 5 different colors of thread wound on them because you couldn't find an empty one when you needed it. The amount of money saved by doing this is almost certainly not worth the time lost fiddling with them. Money spent on empty bobbins is always a good investment!


Re: Bobbin question

Jim Stutsman
 

The bobbins with rubber infusion don't flex any more than the plain ones, but I can feel a difference when sliding a finger over the surface of the bobbin. The rubber-infused ones are not quite a slick, which is the intent. It makes the bobbin a little more "grippy" in the bobbin case.

The prohibition on using metal bobbins in a top-loading Janome machine stems from the magnet holding the bobbin case in place. Plastic bobbins are immune to the pull of the magnet, but metal bobbins could drag a bit, resulting in slightly increased bobbin tension. Over the years I had MANY customers that used metal and plastic bobbins interchangeably, most because a particular bobbin might already be wound with the needed thread color. None had any machine problems as a result. A metal bobbin won't make your machine blow up, and it may not produce any effect you can observe. However if you have a vast collection of metal bobbins salvaged from great-grandma's box of sewing stuff retrieved from the barn, and they are coated with a generous patina of rust, chuck them out!

And while we're on the subject of bobbins, let's address those precious "rainbow" bobbins in your sewing cabinet. You know, the ones that have 5 different colors of thread wound on them because you couldn't find an empty one when you needed it. The amount of money saved by doing this is almost certainly not worth the time lost fiddling with them. Money spent on empty bobbins is always a good investment!


Re: Bobbin question

Ceil J
 

I bought a box of pink Janome bobbins and a box of blue supposedly so I could tell apart the cotton and poly thread (but you can really tell just by looking at the thread).  Anyway, the pink have the J and the blue do not.  I put them behind my back and felt them to see if they had a different "flex" or if I could tell them apart by how they feel and I could not.  They look the same except for the J and they both work the same.  I've never had a problem with class 15 bobbins and have an assortment dating back to the 80's. After the discussions about the so-called superior J bobbins I went through my collection and found a few with the J but most do not have it.  I even found one with a "9" or "6" on it.  I have a prewound pack of Janome bobbins that don't have the J. Some do tend to have a very slight curve towards the center and others do seem flat but they all seem to work well.  When I first had my MC6000 (New Home) in the late 80's I even used metal bobbins in it before I found out several years ago that this was a no-no.  I would never put a metal bobbin in my 15000 but I never had a problem with the 6000 and it still runs like a dream (but no more metal bobbins!)

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 9:56 PM onlinesewing via Groups.Io <onlinesewing=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
The bobbins marked with 'B' are genuine Janome, but were made before they started infusing the plastic with rubber. There may be some J bobbins like that as well. I don't know if the J stamp was done for the rubber-infused ones, or if it was in use before that. No suggestions - just use and enjoy!


Re: Bobbin question

Jim Stutsman
 

The bobbins marked with 'B' are genuine Janome, but were made before they started infusing the plastic with rubber. There may be some J bobbins like that as well. I don't know if the J stamp was done for the rubber-infused ones, or if it was in use before that. No suggestions - just use and enjoy!


Bobbin question

Lorrie Gauthier
 

I did read the thread about the bobbins with J on them so I started looking through mine. I have a million. Most are blank but I do have some that look similar to the J but they have a B on them. The edges on the J & B look more flat on the edges than the others.

Any suggestions? 


Re: while embroidering machine stops after 10 stitches

Jim Stutsman
 

Once you push the START button the machine is being controlled by the embroidery design, so this is probably due to a stop that is embedded in the design. You didn't say which machine this is on, but some (e.g. 15000) have a one-stitch stop option for use with quilting designs. However when that option is turned on you literally get one stitch before it stops. If this is a multi-hoop design, which needs to be lined up, there's a good chance that the designer built in a stop after the alignment marks get stitched. That's about all I can offer with the information you provided.


while embroidering machine stops after 10 stitches

Lynda Lu Gibb
 

Set up a new design and began stitching, but the stitching stops after about 10 stitches, then I need to push the start button again.. no message on the screen to indicated why..any suggestions?


Re: Janome 15000 cabinet

Anne Parker
 

I don't have a cabinet for my machine.  I use a BEKANT desk from IKEA.  It's part of their office furniture range and can be raised and lowered as needed.

I bought the largest size 160cm x 80cm (72 in x 32 in) with oak veneer top and white legs, with manual adjustment for £150 https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/desks/office-desks/bekant-desk-oak-veneer-white-spr-39022807/- but you can get more expensive versions that have electric adjustment.

I have mine set at the lowest height of 65cm - about 26 in (which puts the machine sewing surface at just the right height for me being short) but it can go up to 85cm - about 34 in - the electric sit/stand versions will actually go to a height of 125cm (50 in).

They also have a 10yr guarantee and are very sturdy.  I have mine on carpet and don't have any problems regarding vibration.

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/

"Great dancers are not great because of their technique, they are great because of their passion"  Martha Graham

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