Date   

Re: Version 2 manual

ceilsews <no_reply@...>
 

Jeannie,
I have the V1 book and found differences on pages 91, they added Maximum zigzag width adjustment and p. 135-136 where they changed the directions for creating a square frame.
There may be others but those are the two I found.  I printed out the new pages and clipped them to my book but I'll refer to the online guide if need be.
Ceil


'Addition of function for direct input of stitch numbers'

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

I've just come across a feature mentioned on this page
that I wasn't aware of.

It mentions under New embroidery features
Stitch Number Selection Feature - which I'm happy with.

But then it mentions under Other NEW Features -

Addition of function for direct input of stitch numbers

What exactly does this mean?  Is it just referring to being able to select/set the stitch number when embroidering, or is it something to do with selecting a stitch number in sewing mode?

Where do I find instructions in the manual for this if it's in sewing mode?  I've searched but can't seem to find it.

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

Jim says:
See page 121 in the V2 manual, specifically Jump key. That explains how to enter the exact stitch that you want to go to in a design that is open in embroidery mode.


Re: milk jug topper

Colleen
 

Thanks very much

Sent from my iPad

On 29/12/2014, at 5:35 am, Barb Engvall catsnquilts@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

Try Murphy Designs…http://www.murphysdesigns.bizland.com/    Her designs look like tatting, which is ‘close’ to crochet!




On Dec 27, 2014, at 8:28 PM, newfiddler@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:


I am looking for a free standing lace design in crochet lace to make a  4 or 5 inch wide milk jug  thingee and I intend to get a friend to crochet the little beads around the edges.  Hope this makes sense. Can someone please help me here.  I have just sewn one out but it is a little small it is designed by miems.  Not sure whether she is still in business or not.  Even six inches would be nice I suppose it all depends on the jug size.  Seasons Greetings to you all. Colleen B




Re: Version 2 manual

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

Caro;yn

Your absolutely right! - Don't know what I thinking about. Must be too much Christmas wine!

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

On 28 December 2014 at 18:01, cmgazerro@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

Ann,


The manuals are already in .pdf.  On your computer, just save it and print if needed.  On iPad open in iBooks and either print from there if printer is compatible or send to self by email or put it into Dropbox , if you have it.  From Dropbox or email you can save it to your computer.


BTW:  I also have a free pdf writer called  pdf995.  Comes in handy for printing pdfs from other formats.


Carolyn



Shredding thread on 12000

mjdutro@...
 

Jim I am hoping you have an answer for me.  Underneath the thread guide on the top of the machine as illustrated on page 13 of the instruction book for the 12000.  When I took off the removable cover there is a tiny vertical tube that is made with a sharp crimp.  I thought that that was fraying the thread so I turned the sharp side away from the thread path.  It worked for a while.  Then it went back to fraying the thread every 5 minutes or so.  Also the brush seems to be about an eighth of an inch too short.  Any ideas?  I am so frustrated.  My dealer is 100 miles of country road away.  Martie in CA

Taking time out from watching the tube, Jim says:
The technical name for the tiny vertical tube is "roll pin", so called because it's made by rolling a sheet of metal into a tube. I've never seen one fray thread and it shouldn't matter what direction it faces. The brush is only there to gather fuzz - it doesn't need to touch the thread. If you are certain the thread is fraying there look under the spring. It's a piece of metal that looks like the end of a ski. Sometimes debris will collect under it.

It's also possible that there is a wad of thread/lint caught between the tension discs. That can also cause fraying and shredding. With the machine lock engaged, shine a bright light into the tension slot and gently probe with a long thin needle.


Re: Version 2 manual

cmgazerro@...
 

Ann,


The manuals are already in .pdf.  On your computer, just save it and print if needed.  On iPad open in iBooks and either print from there if printer is compatible or send to self by email or put it into Dropbox , if you have it.  From Dropbox or email you can save it to your computer.


BTW:  I also have a free pdf writer called  pdf995.  Comes in handy for printing pdfs from other formats.


Carolyn


Re: Version 2 manual

bdake@sbcglobal.net
 

No matter what I do all I see is the regular Janome 15000 manual. Nothing says version two. Is there a supplement I can get that just shows what's new in version 2? Sorry to be so much of a problem. I recouperating and want to be ready when I can get to my machine again.

Jeannie Dake

Regular Jim says:
All of the links on the Janome website point to a V1 manual. The only place I could find the V2 was on the Janome Global site. I've re-linked the app to that. Note that this site is in Japan, linked to the Internet by undersea cable. It can take a very long time to download the very large PDF - up to 10 minutes or more. You have to be patient. Once downloaded you can save it to iBooks and it's yours forever.


Re: 5 thread spool holder and the 15000

Kay Allen
 

I find that using the 5 thread holder cuts down on the time it takes to complete a project, especially if there are a lot of colors involved. I line all my threads up in front of my machine, drop the first 5 onto the holder and pull the thread through the guides and drop them. Then I just have to run them through the machine as needed. Much less time spent fiddling with thread spools.


Convertible free motion foot

monika.murnane@...
 

I have been looking at this attachment for the 15000 and wondering if it is necessary/useful. It is a hopping foot, and I have read that a hopping foot is good for moving across varying thicknesses of fabric.  But if you quilt with all cottons and the same batting is that an issue?  Does the (hopping) darning foot do the same thing?  the 15000 also has the open toe and closed toe feet (non hopping).  To hop or not to hop.....that is the question....    Monika


Hopping on one foot, Jim says:

As you said, the hopper is good for varying thicknesses. If your quilt sandwich is pretty much uniform the QV-O and QV-S feet are fine. (I am not a quilter, but I've met quite a number of them!)


Re: milk jug topper

Barb Engvall
 

Try Murphy Designs…http://www.murphysdesigns.bizland.com/    Her designs look like tatting, which is ‘close’ to crochet!

On Dec 27, 2014, at 8:28 PM, newfiddler@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:


I am looking for a free standing lace design in crochet lace to make a  4 or 5 inch wide milk jug  thingee and I intend to get a friend to crochet the little beads around the edges.  Hope this makes sense. Can someone please help me here.  I have just sewn one out but it is a little small it is designed by miems.  Not sure whether she is still in business or not.  Even six inches would be nice I suppose it all depends on the jug size.  Seasons Greetings to you all. Colleen B




Re: Version 2 manual

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

If you just type
Janome Manuals into your browser you should get to this page - http://content.janome.com/index.cfm/WhatsNew/Machine_Manuals

I just print it to a free pdf writer (Primo PDF) on my PC to create a PDF.

Anne
​ in Stubbington, UK​

www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

On 28 December 2014 at 09:31, bdake@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

I am trying to print the V2 manual. I can't get it to even load. Is anyone else having this problem. I am using the the my 15000 app on my IPad.
 Anyone else having this problem?


Still V1, Jim says:
It appears that the manual was moved during the Janome website overhaul. I've updated the location that the app uses. To update your version tap the gear icon in the top right corner of the screen. Choose "Check for updates" and wait until the spinner stops. You should wind up on version 14. You can then download the manual from the "Resources" page. Note that the download happens in Safari. When it completes you can save the manual on your iPad by tapping the Safari screen. A bar will briefly show at the top of the screen. Tap "Open in iBooks" and the manual will be permanently saved there. If you don't have iBooks, it's a free download from the App Store. For those without an iPad the manual can be accessed from the 15000 page on the Janome website.



Version 2 manual

bdake@sbcglobal.net
 

I am trying to print the V2 manual. I can't get it to even load. Is anyone else having this problem. I am using the the my 15000 app on my IPad.
 Anyone else having this problem?


Still V1, Jim says:
It appears that the manual was moved during the Janome website overhaul. I've updated the location that the app uses. To update your version tap the gear icon in the top right corner of the screen. Choose "Check for updates" and wait until the spinner stops. You should wind up on version 14. You can then download the manual from the "Resources" page. Note that the download happens in Safari. When it completes you can save the manual on your iPad by tapping the Safari screen. A bar will briefly show at the top of the screen. Tap "Open in iBooks" and the manual will be permanently saved there. If you don't have iBooks, it's a free download from the App Store. For those without an iPad the manual can be accessed from the 15000 page on the Janome website.


milk jug topper

Colleen
 

I am looking for a free standing lace design in crochet lace to make a  4 or 5 inch wide milk jug  thingee and I intend to get a friend to crochet the little beads around the edges.  Hope this makes sense. Can someone please help me here.  I have just sewn one out but it is a little small it is designed by miems.  Not sure whether she is still in business or not.  Even six inches would be nice I suppose it all depends on the jug size.  Seasons Greetings to you all. Colleen B


Re: 5 thread spool holder and the 15000

Cheryl Paul
 

Anne,

I liked my thread stand so much that I purchased a second one when I got my 15000.  I hardly ever use the thread guide on the machine as it isn't good for the thread cones that my embroidery thread in on.  I have purchased 3 of these since 2005.  I gave my 11000 to my daughter so that thread stand went with that machine and I got the new one for the 12000, then was going to just make do with one, but I really didn't like switching it out so bought one for my 15000 as well.  However, it isn't a necessity but a really good convenience.  I love mine.  There is also a stand that has just a 2 spool option, but it is probably pricy too; probably more that 2/5 of the cost of the 5 spool stand.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


Re: What stabilizer to use for FSL

janetpiekarski
 

Question for maggiecoops-how many manufacturing facilities do you think there are-you say you found 15 different WWS?  I was told that there are only 3 manufacturing facilities for stabilizers and they produce for many dealers or re-sellers.


Re: Merry Christmas to all!

cas@...
 

Merry Christmas Jim and Diane, thanks for the cute poem!  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!
Cas
.


Re: 5 thread spool holder and the 15000

fabricartistpam
 

I also use the Janome thread stands. Began with the 11000 and then 12000 and now the 15000. I can't imagine doing embroidery without them. 

Pam S

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 26, 2014, at 7:05 AM, "Anne Parker annegparker@... [janome12000]" <janome12000@...> wrote:

 

I'm still struggling to see what the advantage is when you only have one needle and have to thread the machine at every colour change anyway?

Admittedly I've not done a lot of embroidery yet, but so far I've just lined up my threads at the side of the machine in the order they will be needed and then used as required.  Isn't this the same thing as putting them on the thread stand?

My plan to use something fixed to the wall with guides in front of each spool will cut down on any need to take the threads on and off a spool.  With a 5 spool thread stand on the machine, or using the normal spool holder you need to put the threads on and off the machine.

I guess it's horses for courses though - and if the stand wasn't so expensive for what it actually is I might try it. - maybe I will take a look around and see if there is something similar or even make something similar to give it a try.  Actually I will definitely try using the 4 thread stand on the back of my overlocker and see how I feel about it.

Hope everyone had a good day yesterday and are still enjoying the season!

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

On 26 December 2014 at 02:47, Kay Allen kaysweb@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

I have the 5 thread holder and highly recommend it! It’s SO much easier to line my threads up and put 5 on at a time. I can’t imagine trying to embroider without it.




Re: 5 thread spool holder and the 15000

blue_lak <no_reply@...>
 

I was fortunate that the thread holder was given by my dealer when I bought my 12000. At the time, I wasn't sure just how much or whether I'd use it. 

1. But I do find it better for staying organized for thread sewing order and having less "around" me on the sewing table. 
2. I can easily see the thread as it's coming off each spool.
3.The telescoping guide extends the thread path enough to allow fussy/metallic threads to relax, unwind, and straighten. They are pulled straight up off the spool and then straight down to the little guide on the top of the machine.
4. When one thread is finished but needed again, I unthread and carefully drape it over the machine top cover. The thread is out of the way but quick to retrieve for rethreading.
5. The thread posts are tall enough to use serger cone threads for regular sewing too.

Overall, I've found that it's less handling of spools and saves me a bit of time. But as you say, everyone has their own work style. I have a weighted thread stand that sits next to my regular sewing machine, but that wouldn't work readily for this because it would have to sit off to the side and would take up more table space.

Jan in MD


Re: Calibration for Clothsetter

Cheryl Paul
 

Jim,  Does the calibration setting on the 15000, have anything to do with the calibration of the hoops for the clothsetter?  I did both and my machine seems to be exactly as it should be when I set up a design.  I didn't really check it to see if it was exact at the time I did both, but just the other day when sewing with a granddaughter, I realized that it was perfect.  Funny how that happens when it doesn't really matter.  Sarah was so pleased with the presents that she had made for her little sisters, Julia and Rachel.

Cheryl - Saskatoon


---In janome12000@..., wrote :

Before calibrating the Clothsetter you need to be sure that the test pattern lines up with the template for the hoop. If it does not you may need to calibrate the hoop using the SET screen for Embroidery mode. As long as the test pattern lines are parallel to those on the grid that's all you need to do. If the test pattern lines seem to slope and are not parallel it usually means that the hoop attaching mechanism needs adjusting. That can be done by your dealer. Once the hoop is properly centered you can go on to calibrate the Clothsetter.

Finding his center from the dreaded "Pretzel" Yoga position, Jim says:
If the hoop is not centered when the Clothsetter is aligned, it will still work correctly because the Clothsetter is calibrated to the machine's hoop position. However if you later calibrate the hoops on the machine, changing the center, the Clothsetter should be re-calibrated. It's also a good idea to calibrate the Clothsetter every year or so, as it can drift. Especially after that time it fell off the table or was thrown across the room following a very bad stitching experience.


Re: 5 thread spool holder and the 15000

Anne Parker <annegparker@...>
 

I'm still struggling to see what the advantage is when you only have one needle and have to thread the machine at every colour change anyway?

Admittedly I've not done a lot of embroidery yet, but so far I've just lined up my threads at the side of the machine in the order they will be needed and then used as required.  Isn't this the same thing as putting them on the thread stand?

My plan to use something fixed to the wall with guides in front of each spool will cut down on any need to take the threads on and off a spool.  With a 5 spool thread stand on the machine, or using the normal spool holder you need to put the threads on and off the machine.

I guess it's horses for courses though - and if the stand wasn't so expensive for what it actually is I might try it. - maybe I will take a look around and see if there is something similar or even make something similar to give it a try.  Actually I will definitely try using the 4 thread stand on the back of my overlocker and see how I feel about it.

Hope everyone had a good day yesterday and are still enjoying the season!

Anne
www.sewingtales.wordpress.com

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.  "Desiderata" Max Ehrmann

On 26 December 2014 at 02:47, Kay Allen kaysweb@... [janome12000] <janome12000@...> wrote:
 

I have the 5 thread holder and highly recommend it! It’s SO much easier to line my threads up and put 5 on at a time. I can’t imagine trying to embroider without it.