Re: Bobbin Tension
Anne Parker
Glad you got it sorted Deb. Maybe though you could have tried the overall top tension adjustment setting ? You can of course use a favourite stitch setting to set the tension default for each stitch you use. But also on the 15000 at least you can adjust the top thread tension overall either + or - in the Sewing settings menu - page 97 in the manual and the Embroidery settings menu page 152. I expect you didn't take note of where the tension screw was on that bobbin case when you took the machine in? It would be interesting to see if it had been altered and you've just put it back where it was. Hope the cutter and threader are still working ok. I'm wondering if the bobbin case was adjusted by the dealer to make the tension higher to enable the cutter to work better? Anne www.sewingtales.wordpress.com https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/ "If we could live happy and healthy lives without harming others... why wouldn't we?" Edgar's Mission | www.edgarsmission.org.au |
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Horizon Link status bar blank?
blue_lak <no_reply@...>
I think I've inadvertently changed a setting in Horizon Link because the Status Bar is a gray void of emptiness. What did I change and need to reset so I don't do it again? Jan in MD [Choking back his intense dislike of the Windows "ribbon" interface, Jim offers this] Right click on the gray void of emptiness (I think I spent a weekend there once.) and uncheck "Minimize the ribbon". I don't think there is any way to prevent you from doing it again. |
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Re: Bird nest on bottom
blue_lak <no_reply@...>
Fabric getting pushed down into the throat plate can be for several reasons. First and foremost, try using a thread bunny, that is, a scrap fabric starter. Try using the straight stitch plate for straight seams. Try using a different style and size needle, eg sharp or embroidery. If the cotton is prewashed, try using spray starch or sizing to give it a little body. If the fabric is batik, try using a brand new "denim" needle, available in various sizes. Denim and batik are both tightly woven and that needle is designed to penetrate.
Jan in MD |
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Bird nest on bottom
Sherryl Doran
I read through all the posts about the bird nests but the person who began the posts on the subject was sewing through multiple layers and I think denim was one of them. I am just sewing through one layer of cotton and I get a bird nest on the bottom every time I begin a seam. My old Janome did this also but I used a trick I use on my HQSS which is to hold onto both threads as I stitch the first couple of stitches. This usually worked on my old machine, which incidentally only had the problem when I first started stitching after turning the machine on or after changing thread or bobbin. My 12000 makes a thread nest on the bottom at the beginning of EVERY seam I sew. So far I have just lived with it (I haven't been using this machine very long) especially since I use the automatic thread cut feature so there is never any bobbin thread out where I can hold onto it before I begin a seam. [Fearing the wrath of the sewing gods, Jim bravely formulates an answer] By now you have probably read enough posts to know that the primary causes of thread nests are lack of top tension or thread not in the take-up lever. Secondary causes include burrs on the hook race, bobbin case or needle plate, as well as mismatched thread and needle size. We'll assume that you've already eliminated those. The one you may have missed is using the LOCK button before threading. It's not just a safety item. When you activate LOCK it opens the tension to allow the thread to go between the discs. If you thread without locking first, the thread may just lay on top of the discs. When you start to sew the initial nest will yank it down into the tension, but you've already got the nest. If you are using lock then I would recommend a dealer visit so they can watch the problem and make a diagnosis/repair. |
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Re: My poorly 5000
audrey chase <Contessa@...>
Thanks so much Jim. You’ve cheered me up. Maybe my 15000 will be ok when I get it back, after all. Will definitely report when it arrives, sometime next week, I hope. Thanks again for being so reassuring. Means a lot. |
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Re: New member, new owner of a 12000
Vikki Youngmeyer
One of the sales persons where I work put her cone of Floriani thread in a mug and set it off to one side in front of her machine. She was using the Janome 9900 machine which is a combo machine. When she tried threading the normal way, the thread would break and ravel.
I’ve also seen paper clips or safety pins taped to the machine. If you go to Pinterest, you’ll see a number of solutions for using cones.
Vikki Houston,TX
From: janome12000@... [mailto:janome12000@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 1, 2016 6:25 AM To: janome12000@... Subject: [janome12000] Re: New member, new owner of a 12000
Get yourself a thread stand that sits next to the machine instead of using the one that is built-in on the top. You will find it much easier when changing thread colors for embroidery. Then, too, you can use the big spools of thread. |
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Re: Bobbin Tension
Deb Keldrauk
Hello All,
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I was the one who started this thread about Bobbin Tension. Background here - I took my 15k in for a once over, nothing too major. Needle threader not working and thread cutter also not working at times. The cutter trouble could have been a tension adjustment and I did mention that. I got my machine back and both the threader and cutter were working well. I noticed that the tension was ever so slightly different now though. I was having to play with the top tension EVERY SINGLE TIME, the top thread was peeking out on the bottom just a pin points worth and it really bothered me. I had loved the perfect stitch that I was getting before with that thread locking perfectly between layers. I know you are all saying I should have hauled my machine back to the dealer but I just didn't want to. So I decided to move the tension on the bobbin case just an 8th of a turn to the left and see if it worked. Happy to say it did, I did draw a little picture so that I could move it back if there were problems. I am so happy that I don't have to remember to adjust the tension every time I sew, or set up (or change) a favorite setting for every single possibility. I haven't used my embroidery unit yet but I will see how that goes. I happen to have 3 extra bobbin cases. The yellow one that came with the 15k, the blue one that was for FMQ on my old 7700 and a third one set very loosely that I bought for bobbin work. It had been so long since I fooled with the tension down there I started wondering what the silver screw was. My machine is sewing PERFECTLY once again. Thanks so much for all of the input. Deb in CA ---In janome12000@..., <vikkiy@...> wrote : When messing with tension, especially bobbin tension, I would put in a different color thread of the same sort causing the problem. By that I mean, have white thread in the bobbin and black thread in the top – maybe not those specific colors, but colors enough that you can see what threads are not working properly.
Vikki Houston, TX
From: janome12000@... [mailto:janome12000@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 11:45 AM To: janome12000@... Subject: [janome12000] Re: Bobbin Tension
I totally agree with Jim. Adjusting the bobbin tension is really a last resort, especially as we get 2 bobbin cases at different tensions with the machine. If having tension issues the very first thing I do is rethread both the top and bottom thread (though I did once have a mind blip and spent at least an hour trying to sort out why I was getting bobbin thread issues, only to discover the top thread had jumped out of the take up lever when I at last decided to rethread the top thread!!) If you believe you need to adjust tension because you are getting bobbin thread issues then I would always always try adjusting the top thread tension first. If you have bobbin thread on the top, turn the top tension down. If you have top thread on the bottom (or too much top thread if doing embroidery or decorative stitching) turn the top tension up. It is usually the case you can resolve issues this way. If you continually adjust both you can get into a situation where, whilst the thread is meeting in middle of the fabric, the tension on both top and bottom is extremely tight - and you will end up with puckering and I believe likely to get broken threads and machine issues due to the excessive force tight tensions will be causeing. Just my thoughts. When the machine is originally set up - at least as far as I am aware - they are, or at least were, set with a tension guage that set the tension on the thread to a specific gram weight, and it is this setting you are altering. I am thinking of it as a tug of war. The higher the tension the more grams of weight needed to pull the thread through a narrow gap.
If you do ever adjust bobbin tension make a note of where the slot in the screw is pointing - as though it was a clock. Actually draw it on a piece of paper! Then you can turn it back to where you started. And as Jim said only a quarter turn - actually I would say only an eight turn at a time. You will be amazed at the difference just that small change in tension makes.
Anne |
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Re: New member, new owner of a 12000
Get yourself a thread stand that sits next to the machine instead of using the one that is built-in on the top. You will find it much easier when changing thread colors for embroidery. Then, too, you can use the big spools of thread.
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Re: New member, new owner of a 12000
Anne Parker
Congratulations on your 'new' machine. I use a separate thread stand for large cones of thread and just feed from that to the normal thread path. You can just put your large cone in a screw top jar with a hole in the centre of the lid to feed the thread through, or if it is fairly heavy then it may even just stand on it's own beside your machine. I use all sorts of thread in my 15000, both embroidery and sewing. As well as polyester (I like Isacord) and rayon you can get cotton embroidery thread - I have a case of Mettler cotton embroidery thread that actually came with the machine. It gives a more matte, but traditional look, to your embroidery. I also love the Coats Alcazar rayon thread and have no issues with it. The metallic threads are beautiful, and as long as you slow down the machine and guide it well (I always hold it away from the machine with my right hand to stop the twists) it sews great. I've used thread from China and India - and so far have only had issues with 2 of the reels. For sewing I have a whole box of Joy's threads (as well as Guterman, Mettler etc) - I understand they make sewing machines that are not good quality - but the thread sews well. I'm thinking they are cotton as I seem to remember a fair amount of lint, so I would recommend with any thread you use to ensure you clean the bobbin area regularly. One last thing I would say on thread is that generally if the spool is crosswound I would recommend it unwinds over the top of the reel (to take off the twist put on when it was wound on) and if the spool is straightwound I would recommend it unwinds from the side of the reel (so you don't put a twist on it that it doesn't have). Anne www.sewingtales.wordpress.com https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/ "If we could live happy and healthy lives without harming others... why wouldn't we?" Edgar's Mission | www.edgarsmission.org.au |
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Re: Bobbin Tension
Vikki Youngmeyer
When messing with tension, especially bobbin tension, I would put in a different color thread of the same sort causing the problem. By that I mean, have white thread in the bobbin and black thread in the top – maybe not those specific colors, but colors enough that you can see what threads are not working properly.
Vikki Houston, TX
From: janome12000@... [mailto:janome12000@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 30, 2016 11:45 AM To: janome12000@... Subject: [janome12000] Re: Bobbin Tension
I totally agree with Jim. Adjusting the bobbin tension is really a last resort, especially as we get 2 bobbin cases at different tensions with the machine. If having tension issues the very first thing I do is rethread both the top and bottom thread (though I did once have a mind blip and spent at least an hour trying to sort out why I was getting bobbin thread issues, only to discover the top thread had jumped out of the take up lever when I at last decided to rethread the top thread!!) If you believe you need to adjust tension because you are getting bobbin thread issues then I would always always try adjusting the top thread tension first. If you have bobbin thread on the top, turn the top tension down. If you have top thread on the bottom (or too much top thread if doing embroidery or decorative stitching) turn the top tension up. It is usually the case you can resolve issues this way. If you continually adjust both you can get into a situation where, whilst the thread is meeting in middle of the fabric, the tension on both top and bottom is extremely tight - and you will end up with puckering and I believe likely to get broken threads and machine issues due to the excessive force tight tensions will be causeing. Just my thoughts. When the machine is originally set up - at least as far as I am aware - they are, or at least were, set with a tension guage that set the tension on the thread to a specific gram weight, and it is this setting you are altering. I am thinking of it as a tug of war. The higher the tension the more grams of weight needed to pull the thread through a narrow gap.
If you do ever adjust bobbin tension make a note of where the slot in the screw is pointing - as though it was a clock. Actually draw it on a piece of paper! Then you can turn it back to where you started. And as Jim said only a quarter turn - actually I would say only an eight turn at a time. You will be amazed at the difference just that small change in tension makes.
Anne |
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traveling with 15000 and Mac
Caroline Wright
We are going to be taking a trip in a few weeks and will have my 15000 and my Mac in the car and will need to spend a night in a hotel in Georgia. Should I be concerned with heat build up in the car hurting the computer or sewing machine when the car is not running? I'm hoping not to have to take either or both of them into the hotel room for the night. thanks, Caroline [Preparing for a long car trip himself, Jim says] The heat build-up does not concern me as much as the security of the car. Keep in mind that your computer and machine spent several hours in a hot UPS truck prior to you getting them. When you are ready to use them just give them a few minutes to cool off before turning them on and you should be fine. My bigger concern would be somebody breaking a window in the car to steal them. |
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Re: Bobbin Tension
Anne Parker
I totally agree with Jim. Adjusting the bobbin tension is really a last resort, especially as we get 2 bobbin cases at different tensions with the machine. If having tension issues the very first thing I do is rethread both the top and bottom thread (though I did once have a mind blip and spent at least an hour trying to sort out why I was getting bobbin thread issues, only to discover the top thread had jumped out of the take up lever when I at last decided to rethread the top thread!!) If you believe you need to adjust tension because you are getting bobbin thread issues then I would always always try adjusting the top thread tension first. If you have bobbin thread on the top, turn the top tension down. If you have top thread on the bottom (or too much top thread if doing embroidery or decorative stitching) turn the top tension up. It is usually the case you can resolve issues this way. If you continually adjust both you can get into a situation where, whilst the thread is meeting in middle of the fabric, the tension on both top and bottom is extremely tight - and you will end up with puckering and I believe likely to get broken threads and machine issues due to the excessive force tight tensions will be causeing. Just my thoughts. When the machine is originally set up - at least as far as I am aware - they are, or at least were, set with a tension guage that set the tension on the thread to a specific gram weight, and it is this setting you are altering. I am thinking of it as a tug of war. The higher the tension the more grams of weight needed to pull the thread through a narrow gap. If you do ever adjust bobbin tension make a note of where the slot in the screw is pointing - as though it was a clock. Actually draw it on a piece of paper! Then you can turn it back to where you started. And as Jim said only a quarter turn - actually I would say only an eight turn at a time. You will be amazed at the difference just that small change in tension makes. Anne www.sewingtales.wordpress.com https://www.flickr.com/photos/94302460@N03/sets/ "If we could live happy and healthy lives without harming others... why wouldn't we?" Edgar's Mission | www.edgarsmission.org.au |
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Re: Another question
Sherryl Doran
Thank you, you are right of course about the version of the upgrade, it is 1.2, not 2.0. I knew there was a 2 in there somewhere! My husband, who is more "computer tech-y" than me, was the one trying to upgrade the machine for me. He successfully, as far as I know, upgraded the PC file but I guess we will have to go through the directions again to see what we missed for how to put the machine in upgrade mode. Thanks, Sherryl
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Re: Another question
Virginia
Just print off the PDF that comes with the download and download to a clean USB be sure it is no bigger than a 2 or 4. Then follow the instruction do not do it direct connect from your computer. It is a real shame that the dealers have not caught up with this update it has been around for quite a while. You are not the only one that are not aware of it. We all should really be responsible for keeping up with our machine updates, if you are on the Janome website and their e-mail list most of the time (sometimes??) they will e-mail us. We use to really have a great communication with Janome a few years back about updates etc. but it seems to have gone by the wayside. If you are a little apprehensive about doing the update call your dealer or contact Janome tech support. They are really good about getting back to you . Terry is the name of the tech.
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Virginia -----Original Message----- From: crafttwoman@... [janome12000] To: janome12000 Sent: Sat, Apr 30, 2016 6:58 am Subject: [janome12000] Another question I was advised by a dealer to see if there were any upgrades for my new-to-me MC12000, since she said the previous owner of the machine may not have upgraded it. I have determined that there is an upgrade my machine does not have, Version 2.0. My machine is Version 1.1. We tried to download the upgrade to a jump drive, but it would not load onto the machine. The message said something about having the machine in "upgrade mode"? Does anyone know how to put the machine into upgrade mode? I searched through all the settings and did not find such a thing. Thanks,
[Jim, version OMG says]
The latest version for your machine is 1.2. However there is more to updating than just downloading the zip file and putting it on a USB stick. The utility in the zip file that copies the update to USB also has very de
tailed instructions on how to update, including how to put it in update mode.
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Re: New member, new owner of a 12000
Jane Handy
Hello Sherryl Congratulations on your new-to-you 12000 machine. You are going to love it! I've had mine for about three years now but have barely reached the tip of the iceberg - there is so much that it will do. Happy stitching. Jane in the UK |
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My poorly 5000
Contessa@...
I wrote on this group recently to say that my almost new 15000 had tension problems. I was experiencing lots of nesting and the underneath of the embroidery showed no bobbin thread at all. Hence, I was also using masses of top thread all the time. Anyway, after having tried the usual - trying to free anything that might be stuck in the top tensions disks etc,to no avail, the machine was sent back to Janome almost two weeks ago. I rang them yesterday to see if there was any news (my dealer told me I should have heard from them by now) I was told the machine was now ready for its return to me. I asked to speak to the engineer who fixed it, but was told that wasn't possible. He was in Switzerland but wasn't allowed to speak to me anyway. I then asked if there was any news on what had been wrong with the machine and was told that the "ticket" said - No Fault Found. I have been asked to call on Tuesday morning to arrange it's return, but if no fault has been found, am I going to get my faulty machine back again? This has really upset me. Not only does it mean that I may have to send the machine back again and I'd be without it for another 18 days or so, it means that it will, once again, have to suffer being transported about all over the place, which may lead to damage etc. Has anyone had any dealings with Janome in the UK please? I'd be grateful for any advice on this, especially as it seems I am not allowed to chat to the person who looked at it. I had sent a big example of the nesting and lack of bobbin thread showing on the back, together with a detailed note of the problem. Surely they wouldn't ignore that? Am I just being paranoid? if so, I am going to look stupid - again !!!! You're such a knowledgeable lot I thought I'd share this with you. Thanks for taking the time to read my miserable tale. [Not in Switzerland, Jim says] "No fault found" is not equivalent to "Nothing was done". It could mean the technician did not find anything faulty, but did make some adjustments. I can tell you from personal experience that when a technician is fixing lots of machines day after day, filling out paperwork may be bypassed. If I were about to go on holiday the incentive to just tick a box and get on would be high. If you still have a problem after getting it back let us know. Be as specific as possible (which all posts seeking assistance should do) including details like needle size and type, fabric and stabilizer choice and thread weight and type. Do be very mindful when threading to ensure that the thread is securely latched into the take-up lever, as this is a common mistake we have all made. |
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Another question
Sherryl Doran
I was advised by a dealer to see if there were any upgrades for my new-to-me MC12000, since she said the previous owner of the machine may not have upgraded it. I have determined that there is an upgrade my machine does not have, Version 2.0. My machine is Version 1.1. We tried to download the upgrade to a jump drive, but it would not load onto the machine. The message said something about having the machine in "upgrade mode"? Does anyone know how to put the machine into upgrade mode? I searched through all the settings and did not find such a thing. Thanks, [Jim, version OMG says] The latest version for your machine is 1.2. However there is more to updating than just downloading the zip file and putting it on a USB stick. The utility in the zip file that copies the update to USB also has very detailed instructions on how to update, including how to put it in update mode. |
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New member, new owner of a 12000
Sherryl Doran
Hi, I have just joined this group, glad to find it. I purchased an MC 12000 on the Sew Its For Sale site just this month. I have been having fun getting to know it as I have never done machine embroidery before, just decided I'd like to give it a try. I had a DC Janome before but it didn't do embroidery and had very limited stitches. I mostly quilt, but I have a new grandbaby coming so I decided to try my hand at making some little people clothing. So far, so good. I am next going to try embellishing these little things with some embroidery and wondered if other group members have a suggestion for what thread is best to use for embroidery. Also it looks like those spools must be a certain size to fit into the thread holder depression on top of the machine so that lets out using the large cones, yes? My machine came with what looks like some kind of thread guide that was inserted into the hole where the extra spool pin (which was missing) was supposed to be. Any idea what that piece is and where it fits into the machine? Thanks for any help you can give. Sherryl [Group Captain Jim says "Welcome!"] This is a moderated group, which allows me to filter spam and malware. If you don't see your post right away, it just means that I am away from my computers. This rarely happens, but if it does posts may be delayed up to a couple of days. Meanwhile enjoy our luxurious clubhouse and try one of those all-chocolate cupcakes. They are unbelievable. You will get almost as many thread recommendations as there are members. We all have our favorites. I will tell you that embroidery thread comes in two varieties: polyester and rayon. Polyester is generally preferred, as it is stronger and colorfast when washed. All brands are generally acceptable, though I would stay clear of Coats & Clark for any type of sewing. It's not your mother's thread any more, as it's now made by Chinese boll weevils in sweatshops. It has excessive lint, which sheds into your machine's tension. Any thread sold by Walmart for $1 a spool or less should also be given a pass. The guide you found does go into the hole on top of the machine. It's used in conjunction with the thread stand that goes behind the machine. Your seller may have kept that, as it's an optional accessory that fits other models. The thread stand allows if using thread on cones. |
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Horizon disk and viewing my designs
Kim Cotcher
Hi, I recently bought a used Janome 15000 and am trying to learn how to use the embroidery component. I have the Artistic software and a thumb drive full of designs. Can I load the JEF designs on my laptop? What software do I use to view them? Is it possible to have a thumbnail view of each design or do you have to open each one individually? Can I print a reference sheet of the designs? Will the Janome 15000 app be helpful with these issues? Kim [Jim says] If you have a Mac get StitchBuddy for viewing, editing and moving your designs to USB. For Windows use the HorizonLink Suite that comes with the machine. Our My 15000 app will help you with all aspects of using your machine, though it does not have a design viewer in it. |
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Bobbin Tension
Deb Keldrauk
Hello, How do I adjust the tension on a bobbin case? I know I am supposed to turn a screw is it the metal phillips head screw or the plastic flathead screw, what is each of these screws for? I would imagine that it is turn, just a hair at a time RIGHT to tighten and LEFT to loosen tension but I thought I'd ask before fiddiling. Thanks, Deb in CA [With a mighty shriek, Jim races to the keyboard to prevent a catastrophe] NEVER TOUCH THE PHILLIPS SCREW ON THE BOBBIN CASE! It's what holds the tension spring in the case and if you accidentally disassemble the case you're going to have a bad day. Use the flathead screw (which usually has red paint on it), turning right (clockwise) to increase tension (pull more a thread to the back) or left (counterclockwise) to reduce tension (pull more to the top). Turn no more than quarter turn at a time and test after each. If nothing is changing STOP! You will only create more problems. Put the tension back where it was and look elsewhere for the problem, usually in the thread path of the needle thread. Changing bobbin tension should be a last resort, as it is rarely the problem. |
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